Keep Door Closed

[chiangrai]

This is just a simple question.

I have a lightweight interior door that won't stay closed.

It's been there about a year but it's never had any hardware on it.

No locks no handles just 2 hinges which have no problems.

 

I just want to make it click shut I want some small simple cheap door

accessory that will make it click closed but will still open if pushed lightly

with one hand.

 

Is there some piece of hardware that will do this without having to mortise.

I'm sure I have seen them before and could find them on Ebay if I just knew

what they were called.

[Crossy]

It's called a roller catch.

 

It needs a bit of woodwork, but if you can't manage your local handy-person should be able to.

 

Take the picture to your local hardware store.

 

[chiangrai]

 

I found these on Ebay.

 

!-Do I need a 18mm drill bit to install this one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BALES-CATCH-Cupboard-Room-Door-Adjustable-Roller-Ball-Bearing-Latch-Spring/263768448011

 

2-Does this one need a 4.4mm drill bit to install it.If so is that too small and only for a closet.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/House-Closet-Door-Adjustable-Screw-Spring-Roller-Copper-Ball-Catch-Set-L2G3/253685039856

 

3-What about this one......

https://www.ebay.com/itm/House-Closet-Door-Adjustable-Screw-Spring-Roller-Copper-Ball-Catch-Set-L2G3/253685039856

[eyecatcher]

you dont need to mess about with ebay.

just go to Home pro or Global.

 

You will need a 25mm diameter flat bit. I guarantee a 21mm will be too small.

But you need a rock steady hold on the drill. Doors here are not really thick enough to accomodate western ironmongery so that 25mm bit gives you a 5mm tolerance and the forend plate even less!

Flat bits are not easy to use and need practice, one lapse in concentration and you will be buying a new door and possibly a hospital visit.

 

The smaller drill you refer only need to be a pilot hole for the screws..you shoild not be using one bigger than 3mm for the tiny screws

[chiangrai]

O.k I messed up the last post.....I'll try again.....

the door is only 34mm thick...........HomePro is far

even a decent hardware store is far........

 

1-Does this one says 1.8cm for the barrel diameter.......https://www.ebay.com/itm/BALES-CATCH-Cupboard-Room-Door-Adjustable-Roller-Ball-Bearing-Latch-Spring/263768448011

 

2-does this one say 13mm bore size.If so I could use an ordinary drill bit for metal.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/House-Closet-Door-Adjustable-Screw-Spring-Roller-Copper-Ball-Catch-Set-L2G3/253685039856.

 

3-does this one need any bore hole except for pilot holes for the screws.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Room-Cabinet-Door-Latch-Brass-Double-Ball-Catch-60mm-Length-Gold-Tone-U6B9/112608184063

 

[Artisi]

Half a house brick should do it. 

[sometimewoodworker]

13 hours ago, chiangrai said:

O.k I messed up the last post.....I'll try again.....

the door is only 34mm thick...........HomePro is far

even a decent hardware store is far........

 

1-Does this one says 1.8cm for the barrel diameter.......https://www.ebay.com/itm/BALES-CATCH-Cupboard-Room-Door-Adjustable-Roller-Ball-Bearing-Latch-Spring/263768448011

 

2-does this one say 13mm bore size.If so I could use an ordinary drill bit for metal.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/House-Closet-Door-Adjustable-Screw-Spring-Roller-Copper-Ball-Catch-Set-L2G3/253685039856.

 

3-does this one need any bore hole except for pilot holes for the screws.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Room-Cabinet-Door-Latch-Brass-Double-Ball-Catch-60mm-Length-Gold-Tone-U6B9/112608184063

 

Number 3 is definitely not suitable for a room door.

Number 2 certainly could work and is quite adjustable for both spring pressure and gap distance.

Number 1 seems to be missing and size information 

[owl sees all]

13 hours ago, Artisi said:

Half a house brick should do it. 

Magnets. Work like magic.

[Belzybob]

12 minutes ago, owl sees all said:

Magnets. Work like magic.

Those thin magnets found in computer hard drives work well.

[sometimewoodworker]

8 minutes ago, Belzybob said:

Those thin magnets found in computer hard drives work well.

They could easily be a bit too strong, I have quite a few and unless you are careful they can pinch badly.

Round magnet with screw hole for 47 Baht including shipping would probably be better 

[eyecatcher]

btw. I notice the OP says he wants to open with a push?

Seems to me you need to be looking at a spring loaded kitchen cabinet mechanism.

If you dont want a pull handle then your options are limited, unless we have all misunderstood your post.

[Daffy D]

 

Magnet, no drilling required.

 

Don't forget a handle on the side you need to pull open 

Edited August 7, 2018 by Daffy D

[chiangrai]

 

 

1-The measurements for this one is on the pictures on the top left corner of the page(second small photo)I think it's 18mm so I would have to use a spade drill bit.I will stay away from this one unless some one tells me otherwise.

....https://www.ebay.com/itm/BALES-CATCH-Cupboard-Room-Door-Adjustable-Roller-Ball-Bearing-Latch-Spring/263768448011

 

2-does this one say 13mm bore size.If so I could use an ordinary drill bit for metal.I will go for this one if someone can tell me if I'm right about the drill size.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/House-Closet-Door-Adjustable-Screw-Spring-Roller-Copper-Ball-Catch-Set-L2G3/253685039856.

 

3-SometimeWoodworker has rulled this one ouh.

 

I'm going to order number 2 and a magnetic one as well(50bht) just to

compare them.

 

 

 

 

The

[eyecatcher]

number 2 looks quite good in that its adjustable. This helps if you have doors that expand and contract . The fixed rollers mean you could have it working lovely in wet season then in dry season the doors shrink and the roller doesnt meet the striki g plate.

 

It looks bigger than 13mm and i dont see any sizes, but the plate would normally be 25wide so its a guesstimate.

Use a wood drill not metal and get one 3to 4mm wider than the barrel. It allows you to level up or down, left or right if you are drilling slightly off.

 

You will need a chisel aswell for fitting both components.

[chiangrai]

"Mounting Hole Diameter: 4.6mm/0.18 inch; Main Color: brass color
Strike Plate Size: 54 x 34mm (L*W); Bore Size: 13 x 35mm/0.5 x 1.4 inch (D*L)
Ball Catch Size: 54 x 26mm/2.1 x 1 inch (L*W); Mounting Hole Distance: 40mm/1.6 inch
The ball catch remains mounted on the top level of the door and is attached to a hole on the top surface of the door.
The strike plate is mounted on the top of the door jamb where the ball loaded with spring, plays the role of holding the door."

 

This is where I'm getting my measurements for number 2 from.

"bore size 13x35mm" but I'm not too clear on what exactly a "bore size" is.

Do I drill this hole in the door or the door frame.

 

[eyecatcher]

Its tiny....seems to me its for a small kitchen cupbd door.

yes diameter is 13 and tbe barrel length 35mm.

Your typical door roller would be 50/60 long.

The barrel goes into the door but in the side normally, at the position of the hsndle

[sometimewoodworker]

On 8/7/2018 at 12:31 PM, eyecatcher said:

number 2 looks quite good in that its adjustable. This helps if you have doors that expand and contract . The fixed rollers mean you could have it working lovely in wet season then in dry season the doors shrink and the roller doesnt meet the striki g plate.

 

It looks bigger than 13mm and i dont see any sizes, but the plate would normally be 25wide so its a guesstimate.

Use a wood drill not metal and get one 3to 4mm wider than the barrel. It allows you to level up or down, left or right if you are drilling slightly off.

 

You will need a chisel aswell for fitting both components.

It is a 13mm hole required and I certainly would not be using a 16mm hole to mount it in that would be way too sloppy.

 

however you will need quite a big drill for a 13mm metal bit unless you have one with a stepped shaft like this

 

 

drilling the The hole square into the door is not very difficult if you use a guide block that you drill first then put that onto the door. 

 

Just do a test hole into a scrap piece of wood and check the fit of the catch barrel, if it's a bit tight then wiggling the drill bit should work.

 

although the instructions say to put it into the top of the door that will be straining the hinges so it's better to put it into the side.

 

with the magnetic catches if 1 is too weak just keep adding them until you have enough, I think I've got about 5 on a mosquito door. 

[sometimewoodworker]

22 hours ago, eyecatcher said:

Its tiny....seems to me its for a small kitchen cupbd door.

yes diameter is 13 and tbe barrel length 35mm.

Your typical door roller would be 50/60 long.

The barrel goes into the door but in the side normally, at the position of the hsndle

Humm I would be using 6mm or smaller for those kinds of doors I think that it could be exactly what is needed 

[chiangrai]

Yes you're right.

The 13mm drill bit won't fit in my drill chuck.

I have an adjustable spade bit which I could use.With the

guide block method I might get it square.

 

Otherwise get a 13mm stepped drill bit or a 13mm spade bit.

Is there another option.Do they make such a thing as a large chuck

that fits into a small chuck or a large chuck that fits into a hex impact driver.

[sometimewoodworker]

2 hours ago, chiangrai said:

Yes you're right.

The 13mm drill bit won't fit in my drill chuck.

I have an adjustable spade bit which I could use.With the

guide block method I might get it square.

 

Otherwise get a 13mm stepped drill bit or a 13mm spade bit.

Is there another option.Do they make such a thing as a large chuck

that fits into a small chuck or a large chuck that fits into a hex impact driver.

I doubt that you will find a chuck like that, I would never try drilling with an impact driver it's a bad idea.

 

The spade bit sounds like the best option as a stepped bit is going to be quite expensive.

[Daffy D]

 

[chiangrai]

Why should I not drill with an impact driver.

 

I use it to drill 3mm  holes in box metal and was wondering

why it wasn't working very well.

[sometimewoodworker]

1 hour ago, chiangrai said:

Why should I not drill with an impact driver.

 

I use it to drill 3mm  holes in box metal and was wondering

why it wasn't working very well.

Because of the way the impact function works. 

 

Drilling is best with smooth rotation that continuously cuts the material. An impact driver is jerking the bit and that isn't what you want, you have a really good chance of breaking bits as well as blunting them really quickly.

 

impact driver for bigger screws and bolts.

hammer drill for stone and concrete.

drill for drilling and driving smaller screws.

 

Drill vs impact

Edited August 9, 2018 by sometimewoodworker

[eyecatcher]

There is another option. Normally consigned to the old tool box back in the motherland.

never fails and you have complete control.

 

[chiangrai]

and these screws that are made for  using with box metal

without drilling first

are they crap....