Honda Click Vibration Issues

[Talltuktuk]

2012 Click/Vario with 25k km. The bike is in overall really good shape. I’m experiencing a vibration issue and can’t figure out where it is. The vibration happens at speeds between 30km/h and 70km/h. The vibration oscillates when I maintain a certain speed. For example, I can hold the throttle at the same position and maintain a speed but the vibration oscillates up and down like a waveform. I can feel it throughout the entire bike. I’m able to tell that the oscillating vibration is almost entirely related to engine speed. The vibration disappears as soon as I let off the throttle and the engine returns to idle, regardless of how fast the bike is rolling. The bike also has a bad shudder/vibration when taking off from a dead stop. It’s had a new belt and new final drive bearing in the last 2000km. 

 

I’ve posted a pic of the CVT parts when they had them apart for cleaning. I don’t know how to tell if the clutch linings are worn but it seems they have a lot less meat than new ones I’ve seen. Could this be causing problems? Any ideas?

 

[Kwasaki]

Drive belt.

[Talltuktuk]

Sorry, i just edited my post to show that I had the belt and final drive bearing replaced within the last 2000km. 

[stubuzz]

Rear arm bushings? Buckled wheels?

[Isaanbiker]

Check the screws that are holding the engine. 

 

   Check if the tires nuts/bolts are tightened up first! 

 

   Try rear and front bearings of your wheels if they're worn out. 

[Oztruckie]

Sounds more like a wheel problem,loose spokes allowing wheel to buckle,put bike on the stand,grab a brick or something similar,locate it close to the wheel,then rotate wheel,should show up and wheel run out,or tyre problem,how old are the tyres.

[Pdavies99]

On 7/29/2019 at 7:57 AM, Kwasaki said:

Drive belt.

Thats right!  Very common issue is the clutch plates buckle and the belt hardens up.

 

 

[Moonlover]

Because the vibration appears to be related to engine speed, my guess would that the engine mountings could be worn. 

[alx123]

the shudder on take off is usually because of a glazed clutch linings. Did they also changed your rollers, they look worn as well. 

 

change the clutch pads, rollers, if the vibration persists take a look into the clutch bearing next. 

 

 

[thailand49]

34 minutes ago, alx123 said:

the shudder on take off is usually because of a glazed clutch linings. Did they also changed your rollers, they look worn as well. 

 

change the clutch pads, rollers, if the vibration persists take a look into the clutch bearing next. 

 

 

I'm not a mechanic but I had the same problem? I pointed to the guy the belt area,  when he removed the belt he also removed the entire hub there is another unit that flips out like 3 prong?  These prong are like brake pad the guy showed it to me it was near bare metal to replace the unit, it wasn't cheap compared to the other services had belts changed before in my other bike but never like this.  The guy took it apart never have I seen so many screws, springs it was lay all over the place but he put everything back the total charge was something like 2000 baht. He took it for a test ride came back thumbs up I paid when I drove off felt like I had a new bike 80,000 plus on PCX,  problem was solved.

[Talltuktuk]

59 minutes ago, alx123 said:

the shudder on take off is usually because of a glazed clutch linings. Did they also changed your rollers, they look worn as well. 

 

change the clutch pads, rollers, if the vibration persists take a look into the clutch bearing next. 

 

 

That makes sense. They disassembled the clutch/CVT and cleaned all the parts and put it all back together when I got a new belt. I don’t know enough about these parts to know if they were worn out or not. This was at a Honda dealership in Cambodia. In this country people drive their bikes into the ground and do the cheapest possible fix to get a few more km out of it. Perhaps that’s why the tech didn’t suggest new parts. The tech was shocked that I wanted a new belt when the old one was still in one piece (but very ragged). My mentality is preventative maintenance and fix it right the first time. I’m taking it back to them on Thursday to see what they can find. I don’t care what it costs, I want the bike to run properly. 

As far as the clutch bearing, I had the bearing directly behind the CVT replaced - I thought this was the final drive bearing - is it different?

[Talltuktuk]

2 hours ago, Moonlover said:

Because the vibration appears to be related to engine speed, my guess would that the engine mountings could be worn. 

This was my first thought. If this was a car vibrating like this, my first guess would be engine mounts. If the parts are super cheap (most of them are here) I may just have it done. 

[Talltuktuk]

On 7/29/2019 at 4:34 PM, Isaanbiker said:

Check the screws that are holding the engine. 

 

   Check if the tires nuts/bolts are tightened up first! 

 

   Try rear and front bearings of your wheels if they're worn out. 

 

If i put the bike on the kick stand and spin the rear wheel by hand, I can feel and hear some friction (not brake resistance, it does it with the brakes adjusted all the way out). The tech said this was normal but this is my first time dealing with a small motorbike. Should this be smooth? 

[Talltuktuk]

2 hours ago, Pdavies99 said:

Thats right!  Very common issue is the clutch plates buckle and the belt hardens up.

 

 

Belt is <2000km but the clutch plates may be original (26k)

[Pdavies99]

48 minutes ago, Talltuktuk said:

Belt is <2000km but the clutch plates may be original (26k)

If the clutch plate does not look worn out, check for grease / dirt  / oil and clean thoroughly.  (Usually though if like that then its the bin!)  A point to note if you have been through flooding then the clutch plate is often ruined.

[Talltuktuk]

27 minutes ago, Pdavies99 said:

If the clutch plate does not look worn out, check for grease / dirt  / oil and clean thoroughly.  (Usually though if like that then its the bin!)  A point to note if you have been through flooding then the clutch plate is often ruined.

 

Good to know. I’ve never been through flooding but I don’t know the history before I bought it. 

[alx123]

4 hours ago, Talltuktuk said:

That makes sense. They disassembled the clutch/CVT and cleaned all the parts and put it all back together when I got a new belt. I don’t know enough about these parts to know if they were worn out or not. This was at a Honda dealership in Cambodia. In this country people drive their bikes into the ground and do the cheapest possible fix to get a few more km out of it. Perhaps that’s why the tech didn’t suggest new parts. The tech was shocked that I wanted a new belt when the old one was still in one piece (but very ragged). My mentality is preventative maintenance and fix it right the first time. I’m taking it back to them on Thursday to see what they can find. I don’t care what it costs, I want the bike to run properly. 

As far as the clutch bearing, I had the bearing directly behind the CVT replaced - I thought this was the final drive bearing - is it different?

I'm leaning toward a faulty clutch since the vibration usually goes away once you release the throttle. (note: The clutch disengaged once you released the throttle and you decelerate)  The mechanic probably messed it up somewhere there when they reinstalled it.

 

At 26k kms, I think you should also change your rollers, your gear oil (this is not the engine oil), air filter and clutch pads.  

[Talltuktuk]

9 hours ago, alx123 said:

I'm leaning toward a faulty clutch since the vibration usually goes away once you release the throttle. (note: The clutch disengaged once you released the throttle and you decelerate)  The mechanic probably messed it up somewhere there when they reinstalled it.

 

At 26k kms, I think you should also change your rollers, your gear oil (this is not the engine oil), air filter and clutch pads.  

I bought the bike at 24xxx, immediately took it to the dealership and had the belt, air filter, engine oil, gear oil, coolant, and spark plug changed. The bike was in really good shape for being a 2012 and I wanted to keep it that way. The mechanics were puzzled as to why anyone would have all this work done when the bike was still drivable as people don’t really do PM here. I’m going on Thursday to have the clutch looked at/repaired, I will update with the findings. 

[hatewaitin]

On 7/30/2019 at 8:39 PM, Talltuktuk said:

That makes sense. They disassembled the clutch/CVT and cleaned all the parts and put it all back together when I got a new belt. I don’t know enough about these parts to know if they were worn out or not. This was at a Honda dealership in Cambodia. In this country people drive their bikes into the ground and do the cheapest possible fix to get a few more km out of it. Perhaps that’s why the tech didn’t suggest new parts. The tech was shocked that I wanted a new belt when the old one was still in one piece (but very ragged). My mentality is preventative maintenance and fix it right the first time. I’m taking it back to them on Thursday to see what they can find. I don’t care what it costs, I want the bike to run properly. 

As far as the clutch bearing, I had the bearing directly behind the CVT replaced - I thought this was the final drive bearing - is it different?

All the driveline parts for these are relatively cheap. I'm pretty sure your problem relates to the front alloy slides and rollers. 

If you look at the slides where the belt rides although they are conical in shape the belt will have worn an unevenness into them. 

This coupled with a new belt will cause a definate vibration. 

Replace both and the boss pin. Probably better to get another belt too

[alx123]

^^ Agree, this could be it too. The drive face surface is not actually visible in the photo, that could also be already worn. 

 

This parts are cheap, change them. 

 

 

[Agusts]

15 hours ago, alx123 said:

^^ Agree, this could be it too. The drive face surface is not actually visible in the photo, that could also be already worn. 

 

This parts are cheap, change them. 

 

 

Yes, changing the roller plates , both plates, that squeeze the belt is cheap and should be changed if the surface is damaged and worn, they have changed on mine once, they also changed clutch disk, but note the clutch also has a housing where the disks/pads make contact, it is better change that if worn too... they just sandpapered it for me to make it smooth, but maybe it was better if they changed...

 

Note that the above usually is obvious at take off, at higher speeds the vibration you describe maybe related to something else...!

[Isaanbiker]

On 7/30/2019 at 6:14 PM, Talltuktuk said:

 

If i put the bike on the kick stand and spin the rear wheel by hand, I can feel and hear some friction (not brake resistance, it does it with the brakes adjusted all the way out). The tech said this was normal but this is my first time dealing with a small motorbike. Should this be smooth? 

It should be smooth and I'd have thought that they just didn't fix other parts of your automatic clutch. 

 

   It might be worth to ask some foreigners who live there a bit longer where to find a good mechanic.

 

It's the same problem in Thailand, that's why i fix my bike alone and i know that it's done properly.

 

  Best of luck! 

  

[Talltuktuk]

Quick update.. Took the bike to my normal Honda dealer. The tech rode it and said everything was fine. The shudder on take-off was very aggressive and noticeable at this point. He was very dismissive like he didn’t want to do the work. That’s fine, there’s another one across the street. This tech took it all apart and I had the clutch replaced. He did a very thorough cleaning of the bell with sandpaper. It’s now like a new bike on take off but the oscillating vibration is still there. However, the frequency of the vibration has changed. Imagine this vibration like a waveform that oscillates - the waves are now further apart and wider. They didn’t have the front parts (plate and rollers) in stock but I’m going back to have these replaced soon. 

[Agusts]

It makes a lot of sense, the clutch disk and bell is usually responsible for take-off shudder,  but if other parts are faulty after a while it damages these new clutch parts and it starts again....

[losworld]

On 8/13/2019 at 8:15 AM, Talltuktuk said:

Quick update.. Took the bike to my normal Honda dealer. The tech rode it and said everything was fine. The shudder on take-off was very aggressive and noticeable at this point. He was very dismissive like he didn’t want to do the work. That’s fine, there’s another one across the street. This tech took it all apart and I had the clutch replaced. He did a very thorough cleaning of the bell with sandpaper. It’s now like a new bike on take off but the oscillating vibration is still there. However, the frequency of the vibration has changed. Imagine this vibration like a waveform that oscillates - the waves are now further apart and wider. They didn’t have the front parts (plate and rollers) in stock but I’m going back to have these replaced soon. 

you may be fine when the rollers are changed... update...

[Talltuktuk]

Finally got this resolved!!

 

Went back to the dealership and had them reinspect every single part in the drivetrain. They found that 3/6 rollers had flat spots (see 2nd pic). Everything else was in great shape. Paid $15 for a new set of rollers including labor and cleaning all the variator and CVT components. Feels like a brand new bike. My previous hesitation issue (which felt fuel/ignition related) is completely gone, the bike is much, much quicker now, and the oscillating vibration is gone. Glad to finally be past this, it was driving me nuts. Thanks for everyone’s feedback! 

[losworld]

On 8/18/2019 at 5:33 PM, Talltuktuk said:

Finally got this resolved!!

 

Went back to the dealership and had them reinspect every single part in the drivetrain. They found that 3/6 rollers had flat spots (see 2nd pic). Everything else was in great shape. Paid $15 for a new set of rollers including labor and cleaning all the variator and CVT components. Feels like a brand new bike. My previous hesitation issue (which felt fuel/ignition related) is completely gone, the bike is much, much quicker now, and the oscillating vibration is gone. Glad to finally be past this, it was driving me nuts. Thanks for everyone’s feedback! 

they should have checked this right away... why did they not?

[Damrongsak]

11 hours ago, losworld said:

they should have checked this right away... why did they not?

AQL = A Quick Look, not "Acceptable Quality Limit".  They sorta looked round and were shiny.

 

Glad you got it sorted out, and thanks for the update.