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So what did you Do Yourself this weekend?


Crossy

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21 hours ago, tifino said:

actually made a mistake... It's ummm a 2kg tub.  ????  

 

anyway heres 2 photos... of trhe Old & New parts together; and another showing intended orientaion of the retrofitted parts... 

The original; Recoil housing had mounting holes 10cm apart\The Retrofit Recoil housing has holes 7cm apart 

If FIT is okay for this template of the adaptor plate? - I'm thinking a tin paint tin lid may supply a  suitably strong final product?  

667138470_OldandNewPartstogether.thumb.jpg.7668de9ff0ca035f836af98c60f7a172.jpg 

1279197545_RecoiltoDogClutch.thumb.jpg.b16f179ab87f5f3f6b298fd1ad4f5928.jpg 

 

 

I am a great fan of 'ScrapHeap Challenge' ????  

 

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1 minute ago, Crossy said:

 

Maybe use a double thickness of tin lid.

 

also, I currently have the respective 3 holes of each staggered opposite the originals... (see the sketch on wood in the background)  However the closer I can rotate the groups of holes axially closer,  the stronger it might also be?  The only limitations on the 'thickness' used, is how much (or little) clearance required can be achieved... too thick and the dog won't sufficiently contact the centrifugal mating surfaces...

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1 minute ago, Crossy said:

 

Yeah, me too, is it still on?

 

Meanwhile could you leave the rim of the tin lid intact for exta strength?

yeah I'm already hoping same about the Rim - as an original reasoning or using a paint tin lid ????  Only limitation is the confined space in the enclosure for such a lerge radius of Lid...  Currently considering a new temporary template with a Milo lid for fitment purposes only...  

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4 minutes ago, tifino said:

Currently considering a new temporary template with a Milo lid for fitment purposes only...  

 

I'd probably use 1mm sheet, but I have it in stock.

 

I've seen some fairly large pre-cut circles of sheet in Thai Watsadu, could be worth a look.

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ps:    I still have a heap of home recorded copes of ScrHpCh archived onto DvDram... but it's now more convenient to find it on i.e. dailymotion ????    Some might need to use a VPN for this...   

https://www.dailymotion.com/search/scrapheap challenge/videos  

 

much better than the yank imitation ( junkyard wars) 

 

 

 

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22 minutes ago, tifino said:

anyway heres 2 photos... of trhe Old & New parts together; and another showing intended orientaion of the retrofitted parts... 

The original; Recoil housing had mounting holes 10cm apart\The Retrofit Recoil housing has holes 7cm apart 

If FIT is okay for this template of the adaptor plate? - I'm thinking a tin paint tin lid may supply a  suitably strong final product?  

667138470_OldandNewPartstogether.thumb.jpg.7668de9ff0ca035f836af98c60f7a172.jpg 

1279197545_RecoiltoDogClutch.thumb.jpg.b16f179ab87f5f3f6b298fd1ad4f5928.jpg 

 

 

I am a great fan of 'ScrapHeap Challenge' ????  

 

But everything seems to be planted.

"I'm looking for a 6kW steam boiler, oh here is one" ????Otherwise, a great show.

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3 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

I'd probably use 1mm sheet, but I have it in stock.

 

I've seen some fairly large pre-cut circles of sheet in Thai Watsadu, could be worth a look.

and it'd always have to be steel/tin instead of alloy - the flexing could do in the aluminium ????    

Kicking myself I used to have a box of copper'ish HardDrive media platters taken out of an old (and I mean really old) mainframe computer drive unit.  

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26 minutes ago, tifino said:

I'm thinking a tin paint tin lid may supply a  suitably strong final product?  

I'm thinking you need about 3mm thk aluminium/aluminum. But I guess you could "laminate" Milo cans to get 3mm. As it looks as if you can get to both sides of the adaptor to secure the smaller piece.

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1 minute ago, VocalNeal said:

I'm thinking you need about 3mm thk aluminium/aluminum. But I guess you could "laminate" Milo cans to get 3mm. As it looks as if you can get to both sides of the adaptor to secure the smaller piece.

yes there is some airspace... I bolt the New Recoil Housing to the Plate, and then bolt the Plate to the Motor...   The Centrifugal would already be axial-bolted to the Dog.  This is then becomes a simple reversal for maintenance purposes...

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15 minutes ago, tifino said:

yes there is some airspace... I bolt the New Recoil Housing to the Plate, and then bolt the Plate to the Motor...   The Centrifugal would already be axial-bolted to the Dog.  This is then becomes a simple reversal for maintenance purposes...

The new recoil is smaller so you will need a bit more 'English" to start the thing.

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10 minutes ago, VocalNeal said:

The new recoil is smaller so you will need a bit more 'English" to start the thing.

yes a bit more EckyThump      - considering the original one failed in a big physical way...    In the first photo one can see the original all plastic unit only had plastic extrusion ridges, so I was surprised it had lased as long as it did. The new one uses the more conventional plastic and metal centrifugal combination.   

The failure happened after the Concreter mate I lent it too, wasn't used to using such a small gennie - and treated it like how you would a stubborn lawnmower ???? 

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2 minutes ago, tifino said:

The failure happened after the Concreter mate I lent it too, wasn't used to using such a small gennie - and treated it like how you would a stubborn lawnmower

 

I lent a neighbour our key-start genset whilst he was waiting for PEA to hook up his construction supply. He snapped the key off in the switch ???? 

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5 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

I lent a neighbour our key-start genset whilst he was waiting for PEA to hook up his construction supply. He snapped the key off in the switch ???? 

oh! booger...     could youget inside the panel to bypass it? 

 

    - and then install a switch with a better design of key  image.jpeg.8b4dffd8a747fdd8442da162293c78b4.jpeg

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1 minute ago, tifino said:

oh! booger...     could youget inside the panel to bypass it?

 

Yeah, the key is still in the switch but the beast is now adapted to full auto-start anyway so it's not an issue.

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