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Engine seize


Woof999

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One is able to find a used engine STILL IN a late-model (<3 years) wreck, it can really be a <deleted>-shoot. 

 

Given the OP is buying a new car anyway, and assuming he has some place to put the PJS, waiting for one could be a good option. 

 

IMO, rebuilding is a much better option than buying a used engine of questionable origin, particularly give the relatively low cost of labor here.

 

I would not consider selling it as-is unless I had no place to store it.  

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39 minutes ago, Woof999 said:

Pics of bottom end and sump. I thought she had pics of the shells but apparently not. I'll get them next time I'm there.

 

Apologies for the delay. Took me a while to create them in PhotoShop ????

 

 

272266244_3008335309483514_8159486249177739506_n.jpg.e8cede7785eacbb990e837e454a43783.jpg271838946_944834849571301_7465189342891391990_n.jpg.a80f87d262fb83d6f8d0e62a6d6b909f.jpg

Looks like tar, not oil.

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On 1/21/2022 at 11:09 AM, xylophone said:

I almost wrote exactly that as well.............but doubt he could see the irony of it!

 

What news on changing/choosing a new vehicle? AND IMO you did not fail.......I have had my car for over 10 years now and have never checked the oil, BUT the garage does this when I take it in for a service.

But you take it for a service whereas the OP readily admits...

 

On 1/17/2022 at 4:20 PM, Woof999 said:

I'm a little lax at checking oil and getting a service exactly when needed.

I am playing catch-up with this thread (quiet weekend) so forgive my comments if they duplicate others made earlier or raise questions already answered by the OP.

 

Another comment from the OP is that his wife uses the vehicle more than he does. Does she take it to the dealership for the few services he remembered needed doing?

 

My experience, where I drive 95% of the time while the wife does the remainder, is that I am instantly aware of any new noises, vibrations, changes in response, etc.. For example, the sudden front-end knock as I turned onto the ramp into our property led me to take a look and discover that the upper control arm bushings were shot. This was around half-way between the longer regular service intervals so the dealership may have spotted this at the next service. Or maybe not. Since the vehicle had just dropped out of warranty, I watched some YouTubes, asked questions on a owners forum, spoke with my master mechanic mate back in the UK, bought a few tools and complete new control arms and changed both of them myself.

 

Earlier, I had a boot seal split on a front drive shaft while still under warranty. It needed pointing out to the (different) dealership tech doing the regular service. Although I had spotted it after wondering while checking my tire pressures why one inner wheel rim was thicker with dust than the opposite one (due to grease spraying from the split boot), he had missed it. Mind you, if they done the tire rotation that they said they would do, maybe he would have?

 

Relying on dealership technicians to correctly carry out regular maintenance and checks is something that should only be relied on with high-end marques. You get what you pay for. Everything in the broad slew of mid-range Toyo, Mitsu, Mazda, Honda, Nissan, Isu, Ford, etc., is in the hands of the dealership that's paying their techs and mechs the best wages. I have seen same dealership service quality go from excellent to rubbish over two or three services. Now mine is way out of warranty, I do the routine services myself. If one is not of a mechanical persuasion, unless paying OTT for diminishing care and out-of -warranty attention is acceptable, finding and using the best, most reliable non-dealership garage should be a priority.

 

That and having a look under the hood and around the edges yourself now and again.

 

Edited by NanLaew
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44 minutes ago, overherebc said:

????

Got all your finger tips and nails still?

It looked daunting at first but once again, some YouTube and user forum prep and having the workshop manual helped. There was a banjo bolt on the top of the power steering pump that got in the way of removing/replacing the serpentine belt tensioner (always replace belt AND tensioner at the same time). One guy on a forum didn't know that the banjo bolt is a fluid connection so ended up with a mop up job and having to replace his power steering fluid. I found that slackening off the power steering pump's mounting bolts and NOT it's fluid connections gave enough wiggle room to get the tensioner off and on. All in all, a couple of hours including a beer-break.

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7 minutes ago, Woof999 said:

Big ends and scoring on the crank. Pretty clear which cylinder took the brunt of it.

 

 

272065717_467577391414117_8420145497623915586_n.jpg.1bc23bdf9c0b9e86424d6605a220d457.jpg271978002_482172846657157_8293212119584166708_n.jpg.d0437d575f4d725c6ffd682e762f0e2e.jpg

That journal looks like it's gone past the point of no return to me, unless the photo is all oil residue. Think .040" is max for oversize shells...

 

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3 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

Have you been mixing cheap oil brands in previous services. ?

I never purposely buy cheap, but it's a possibility. I've just looked in the garage to see if I have a bottle but "no have".

 

Just received a cash offer for the car as is. A little lower than what I wanted but still not bad. If I can get them up a little more then I'll happily pass the repairs onto someone else.

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4 minutes ago, transam said:

That journal looks like it's gone past the point of no return to me, unless the photo is all oil residue. Think .040" is max for oversize shells...

 

Just weld some filler onto it and machine back to factory specs ????

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1 minute ago, Woof999 said:

I never purposely buy cheap, but it's a possibility. I've just looked in the garage to see if I have a bottle but "no have".

 

Just received a cash offer for the car as is. A little lower than what I wanted but still not bad. If I can get them up a little more then I'll happily pass the repairs onto someone else.

The opportunity to ‘walk away’ from hassle, the potential of further recurrent issues which could accompany a rebuild or the uncertainty of an engine swap may well be worth the financial hit... 

 

Additionally, after a ‘rebuilt engine’ or an ‘engine swap’ how much would the car be worth given the cost of a rebuild ?

 

i.e. what is the cost to you of sale as is, vs the cost of engine rebuild + Sale ?

 

 

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1 minute ago, Woof999 said:

Just weld some filler onto it and machine back to factory specs ????

There is tech out there to do exactly that, but the rebuild costs will be rising. Looking at the internal state of the engine, I would not be surprised if they find the turbo is stuffed. 

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9 minutes ago, Woof999 said:

I never purposely buy cheap, but it's a possibility. I've just looked in the garage to see if I have a bottle but "no have".

 

Just received a cash offer for the car as is. A little lower than what I wanted but still not bad. If I can get them up a little more then I'll happily pass the repairs onto someone else.

They probably can source an engine out of a wreck, I would sell it on, lesson learned regarding diesel engine care....????

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36 minutes ago, Woof999 said:

I never purposely buy cheap, but it's a possibility. I've just looked in the garage to see if I have a bottle but "no have".

 

Just received a cash offer for the car as is. A little lower than what I wanted but still not bad. If I can get them up a little more then I'll happily pass the repairs onto someone else.

Yeah best I think. ????

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Wow what an epic thread.

OP could you post here the oil change history inc. dates & kms? You'll be able to get these from the service record book.

 

Richard Smith it is quite ridiculous that you never check oil levels in between visits to the garage which could easily be at least 6 months apart. Should be checked at least every few weeks.

 

OP If the car needed 45 items attending to, OK main dealers do tend be a bit OTT, so lets say 40, that implies the overall maintenance of the car was very neglected.

 

As others have said, when you turn on the ignition of a vehicle, all warning lights come on, this is so you can check they are working.

 

Looking at the state of that oil, it is obvious the demise of the engine is 100% down to a lack of oil changes. From what I read, you admitted only recalling one service in 6 years.

 

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28 minutes ago, Lancashirelad said:

 

Richard Smith it is quite ridiculous that you never check oil levels in between visits to the garage which could easily be at least 6 months apart. Should be checked at least every few weeks.

 

Something else may astonish you..... Car’s do not need to be hand-cranked to start....

 

All a bit ridiculous ????

 

 

 

 

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8 hours ago, Lancashirelad said:

 

Richard Smith it is quite ridiculous that you never check oil levels in between visits to the garage which could easily be at least 6 months apart. Should be checked at least every few weeks.

 

 that implies the overall maintenance of the car was very neglected.

 

As others have said, when you turn on the ignition of a vehicle, all warning lights 

 

Understand where your coming from like me you sound like a mechanical hands on guy. 

 

Of course everyone should check dashboard warning lights cars today and usually that's all that's required on todays vehicles.

 

Reminds of a film the actor something Sutherland who drove a tank and it broke down. 

He was ask don't you check everything out before starting and driving off. 

Nah he said I don't know nothing about having to fix em I just drive em. 

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2 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

Understand where your coming from like me you sound like a mechanical hands on guy. 

 

Of course everyone should check dashboard warning lights cars today and usually that's all that's required on todays vehicles.

 

Reminds of a film the actor something Sutherland who drove a tank and it broke down. 

He was ask don't you check everything out before starting and driving off. 

Nah he said I don't know nothing about having to fix em I just drive em. 

Donald....????

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2 minutes ago, Kwasaki said:

Reminds of a film the actor something Sutherland who drove a tank and it broke down. 

He was ask don't you check everything out before starting and driving off. 

Nah he said I don't know nothing about having to fix em I just drive em. 

Kelly's Heroes ...... Donald Sutherland, Clint Eastwood and Telly Savalas.

Great movie!

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13 hours ago, Lancashirelad said:

Wow what an epic thread.

OP could you post here the oil change history inc. dates & kms? You'll be able to get these from the service record book.

 

Richard Smith it is quite ridiculous that you never check oil levels in between visits to the garage which could easily be at least 6 months apart. Should be checked at least every few weeks.

 

OP If the car needed 45 items attending to, OK main dealers do tend be a bit OTT, so lets say 40, that implies the overall maintenance of the car was very neglected.

 

As others have said, when you turn on the ignition of a vehicle, all warning lights come on, this is so you can check they are working.

 

Looking at the state of that oil, it is obvious the demise of the engine is 100% down to a lack of oil changes. From what I read, you admitted only recalling one service in 6 years.

 

Car is now sold. Money in the bank. I lost 95,000 from what I *almost* sold the car for almost 18 months ago (when engine wasn't farked), so it could have been a lot worse.

 

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13 hours ago, richard_smith237 said:

Something else may astonish you..... Car’s do not need to be hand-cranked to start....

 

All a bit ridiculous ????

 

 

 

 

Don’t worry, you (and your wallet) will learn the lesson sooner or later ????

 

A scored cylinder or a worn piston ring could develop pretty much overnight. Both of which could cause the engine to burn through liters of oil in days. If you never check, how would you know? 
 

Don’t forget that by the time you get a warning it probably is too late, as going uphill the pump may suck in air instead of oil when the level is low enough to trigger an oil warning.

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1 hour ago, Woof999 said:

Car is now sold. Money in the bank. I lost 95,000 from what I *almost* sold the car for almost 18 months ago (when engine wasn't farked), so it could have been a lot worse.

 

So what was the final bill from Mitsu for the tear-down?

 

Did they put it back together for you or just box it up? 

 

Are you going with the Cross or the Fortuner?

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9 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

So what was the final bill from Mitsu for the tear-down?

 

Did they put it back together for you or just box it up? 

 

Are you going with the Cross or the Fortuner?

In the week that they had it, they only took off the sump and the big ends. I asked them several times to tell me what needed changing but this is all they did. The individual mechanic (with little or no support from the company) appears to have done everything he could to help. I did not visit the car again (didn't need to), the buyer picked up the car, came to the house, did the paperwork, sent the money. That bit was perfect.

 

Next car... probably not the Cross. The model that I liked with the black accents was actually last years. This years is a little more bland IMHO.

 

Fortuner GR Sport is still the front runner, but I still have misgivings about the kickdown and the car stereo as mentioned in the other thread.

 

No other car seems to top it at the moment. Honda CRV coming close though. 300k cheaper too.

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1 minute ago, Woof999 said:

In the week that they had it, they only took off the sump and the big ends. I asked them several times to tell me what needed changing but this is all they did. The individual mechanic (with little or no support from the company) appears to have done everything he could to help. I did not visit the car again (didn't need to), the buyer picked up the car, came to the house, did the paperwork, sent the money. That bit was perfect.

 

Next car... probably not the Cross. The model that I liked with the black accents was actually last years. This years is a little more bland IMHO.

 

Fortuner GR Sport is still the front runner, but I still have misgivings about the kickdown and the car stereo as mentioned in the other thread.

 

No other car seems to top it at the moment. Honda CRV coming close though. 300k cheaper too.

I like the CRV too, if I had the choice of those two I think it would be my choice.

 

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Just now, transam said:

I like the CRV too, if I had the choice of those two I think it would be my choice.

 

Had a night on the <deleted> last night and the taxi home just happened to be a CRV. I loved the side camera coming on whenever you indicate. Drove the Fortuner again this morning.... the camera comes on once you've already turned - sometimes. The saleswoman didn't understand why that was too late. If you're driving at any speed it tells you that the camera is inhibited while driving, which is bloody stupid. A camera when changing lanes is a great idea when you have large blind spots.

 

The main reason for the Fortuner is that the wife is a midget. The CRV drives much better, has better stereo, would be petrol rather than tractor, and is much cheaper, but sits so much lower. Cross is out for the same reason + the others already mentioned.

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