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Tumble Dryer - Melting Adapter Plug


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7 minutes ago, KannikaP said:

So you can buy either 110v or 220v appliances in USA or have 110v or 220v outlets. And if you plug a 110 into a 22ov................boom

 

Yeah, the country that sent people to the moon AND brought them back didn't anticipate home appliance problems.

 

Oh, wait, they did. Outlets for 220vac are a special (different!) design to handle the current and prevent idiocy.

Edited by mahjongguy
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28 minutes ago, KannikaP said:

I thought US was 110v

It is normally 120v but major appliances are often two 120v lines - but this was for export to the 50Hz world so a normal single phase 220v

Edited by lopburi3
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3 hours ago, Crossy said:

As a FYI for future builders, here are our kitchen outlets, two doubles per location, note that they are in opposite orientations to allow for the leads to point in sensible directions.

 

It's not obvious from the photos that the upper and lower doubles are also on different breakers. This caused huge confusion for our sparks who wanted to just wire them on the same 20A circuit.

 

The "crazy farang" prevailed (he was paying after all) and we have never had an issue in the >10 years we've lived here, even with every imaginable appliance running.

 

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absolutely correct ... and if you must use an adapter make sure it's a high quality one that can take the amps 

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2 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Absolutely correct, not, the different voltage outlets are designed so you need a different plug .

What does 'absolutely correct, not' mean please? Why not say it in plain, understandable English.

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1 hour ago, mahjongguy said:

Yeah, the country that sent people to the moon AND brought them back didn't anticipate home appliance problems.

 

Oh, wait, they did. Outlets for 220vac are a special (different!) design to handle the current and prevent idiocy.

American domestic power receptacles for 125 V, 250 V and higher current appliances.

 

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I became familiar with all these early in my career in oil and gas. We even had these twist-lock ones for rough/vibration use.

 

twist-lock-plug-2-pole-15a-220v-nema.thumb.jpeg.5b5b6744db73cf8cb773cca13c892543.jpeg

 

There was a 4-pin twist lock on these enormous, custom built Friedrich 22,000 BTU "window-mount" air conditioners we had on our meat locker logging truck in Saudi.

 

mol.jpg.b08327b4bc9e8de3819041e8be82b59f.jpg

 

Back on topic, not only is the adapter melted but the pins on the appliance plug are also heat damaged. That should be replaced with any of the ones suggested but I'm with @mahjongguy's recommendation from lazada. Those don't melt.

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10 hours ago, KannikaP said:

What does 'absolutely correct, not' mean please? Why not say it in plain, understandable English.

It means that you are absolutely wrong. The only time you could plug a 120V device into a 240V outlet is if some plonker installed the wrong socket or used the wrong plug when wiring the device. See @NanLaew s post.

 

Sadly your  “boom” won’t happen. That doesn’t mean that plonkers don’t plonk & when they do the magic smoke will escape, but it’s the fault of the plonking party not the system.

 

Just imagine the fun in some Nordic countries where you have 240V & 440V in the household, bigger “booms”? No. Better outlet control.

Edited by sometimewoodworker
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5 hours ago, Led Lolly Yellow Lolly said:

Forgive me if someone already mentioned this, I'm not reading the whole topic, but high current devices that are permanent or semi-permanent installations as in the OP should be permanently wired. Most people will just pooh pooh this as an inconvenient truth, but setting fire to your house is more inconvenient.

 

I agree, but ...

 

Where does one draw the line?

 

Thai dryers tend to be about 2.1kw (around 9.5A @ 220V) and the local outlets are 16A. In the UK most wouldn't wire a dryer permanently, it would live quite happily on a 13A plug.

 

Now a 3kW immersion heater is a different animal altogether.

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7 hours ago, Led Lolly Yellow Lolly said:

Forgive me if someone already mentioned this, I'm not reading the whole topic, but high current devices that are permanent or semi-permanent installations as in the OP should be permanently wired. Most people will just pooh pooh this as an inconvenient truth, but setting fire to your house is more inconvenient.

Another factor is home construction and chance of fire - in USA with wood/carpet being normal believe the fire risk is much higher than Thailand where cement block/brick/tile is the norm.  In over 50 years have yet to actually see a home fire here in Thailand - yes they have but most often in close wood constructed areas caused by open flame cooking.  Overloaded circuit fires seem to happen more often in commercial buildings whose owners are in debt.

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