Electric Vehicles in Thailand

[impulse]

I doubt that it'll be made in Thailand soon (if ever), but here's some eye candy from a company backed by Xiaomi, for $32,000 USD in China.  0-100 km/hr in less than 3 seconds.  It's called the JMEV-01, but you can also Google SC-01.  Released for public sale April 15.

 

 

https://carnewschina.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/jmev_01_launch-800x450.jpg

 

https://img-s.msn.cn/tenant/amp/entityid/AA1DIguk.img?w=768&h=1826&m=6

[Andrew Dwyer]

3 hours ago, Pib said:

 

 

If the person who has booked a time slot does "not" begin charging within 5 minutes of the reservation start time then that reservation slot is lost (along with the reservation fee) and  changes to available for walk-in.  That is, a walk-in could pull-in, hook-up and use the slot.   Like if I had a 7:00 to 7.27 slot but didn't arrive/begin charging with 7:00-7:05 then "after" 7:05 that slot  changes to available for walk-in (i.e., I lost the reservation).

 

 Do a google translate on the portion of the image below which has the stopwatch

 

 

Thanks PiB, i thought i had heard something along those lines but couldn’t be sure.

 

The reason i ask is:

Yesterday i was coming back from a long trip, i knew i would have to charge before arriving home but was not needing to yet.

The request for a bathroom break arose and as I had seen a sign for a PTT in 10km i thought to myself “ I’ll top up a bit if a charger is free, if not will calculate/book a charger ahead “.

 

Pulled in and there was a charger free , it was 2.10 pm so I reckoned 20 minutes will be enough.

Scanned the qr code, plugged in and it started the process but timed out and asked me to try again, i went through the same again and as it was trying to start charging I looked at the app and saw it had been booked, hence my question.

Just to add, have used EV Station Pluz a few times recently, paid directly from my BBK bank debit card and never had an issue.

 

I tried a total of 4 times but it timed out each time, another guy pulled up with the 2.30 pm booking and he shrugged his shoulders at my dilemma, another two EV’s pulled up so I left them to it !!

So, why it wouldn’t work for me remains a mystery, in hindsight if I had hung around 5 minutes to see if he had success I might have learned something !

 

Forgot to do the future booking but drove to the nearest Bangchak and charged at a 50kw PEA Volta , as a bonus they had a great pizzeria in the back 

Marry Pizzaria on the Nakhon Nayok to Rangsit road if anyone finds themselves down that way.

[motdaeng]

37 minutes ago, Andrew Dwyer said:

... I looked at the app and saw it had been booked, hence my question ...

 

as far as i know, the app will show you that this slot is already booked and will not let you start charging until the 5-minute grace period has passed. i guess you saw "your" grey-colored time slot, which means this slot cannot be booked anymore. i think you need to book at least 15 minutes in advance; otherwise, it will be treated as a walk-in (also grey colored time slot).

 

sometimes it's hard to find the right explanation why the charging isn't working ... just give it next time another try ..

 

last time, i had also a moment of struggle, till i realised i had to lock the car before charging will start ... 

[Andrew Dwyer]

6 minutes ago, motdaeng said:

 

as far as i know, the app will show you that this slot is already booked and will not let you start charging until the 5-minute grace period has passed. i guess you saw "your" grey-colored time slot, which means this slot cannot be booked anymore. i think you need to book at least 15 minutes in advance; otherwise, it will be treated as a walk-in (also grey colored time slot).

 

sometimes it's hard to find the right explanation why the charging isn't working ... just give it next time another try ..

 

last time, i had also a moment of struggle, till i realised i had to lock the car before charging will start ... 

 

yes, I figured that the charger was free and as it was 10 minutes past the hour I could use it whether it had been booked or not.

When I couldn’t start charging and noticed someone had booked it i wondered if that was the problem.

 

I think that although it does say to lock the car it is not necessary and have certainly stayed in the car with air running etc on a few occasions.

[motdaeng]

18 minutes ago, Andrew Dwyer said:

When I couldn’t start charging and noticed someone had booked it i wondered if that was the problem.

 

how do you see if a slot is booked at the moment you try to charge?

 

i think, the light grey slot is free or occupied and not bookable anymore, the darker grey are the booked slots ...

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Andrew Dwyer]

Just now, motdaeng said:

 

how do you see if a slot is booked at the moment you try to charge?

 

i think, the light grey slot is free or occupied and not bookable anymore, the darker grey are the booked slots ...

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ah that’s interesting, wonder if what i was seeing was me occupying the spot as i tried to enable charging or it was free?, it certainly confused me !

 

The plot thickens:

 

I just took a screenshot of this:

 

 

and it is occupied, so the light gray means it cannot be booked.

 

But what does this mean ? :

 

 

Two light grey and two dark grey ??

[motdaeng]

the 19.00 and 19.30 slots are not booked and can not be booked anymore because you are too late (booking must be made min 15 min before). this two slots are walk in ...

 

the 22.00 and 20.30 slots are booked .. (off peak price 555) ...

 

maybe i am wrong, but that's the way i do interpret the booking system ... 

[Andrew Dwyer]

9 minutes ago, motdaeng said:

the 19.00 and 19.30 slots are not booked and can not be booked anymore because you are too late (booking must be made min 15 min before). this two slots are walk in ...

 

the 22.00 and 20.30 slots are booked .. (off peak price 555) ...

 

maybe i am wrong, but that's the way i do interpret the booking system ... 

 

I think you have cracked it, thanks.

 

All good stuff, tbh i haven’t noticed the two greys until it cropped up now.

[Bandersnatch]

19 hours ago, khunphil said:

I understand this, but do you always check before if the charging station is available, or do you stop wherever you want and are lucky 90% of the time. With my ICE, the only thing I check is if they have Amazon coffee branch ... 😉 Just asking for information.

 

I own 2 BYD EVs, the vast majority of the time I charge them at home from my off-grid solar setup. On a long trip like a 900km round trip to BKK which I have done a few times recently I always charge at BYD showrooms which are exclusively for BYD owners. At 8 Baht per kWh they are about 1 Baht more expensive than the average charger so tend to be less popular. I use the BYD app to identify a dealership on my route and can see if the all the chargers are free. The chargers are plug and charge and about 20 minutes each way is all that is required. I can use the customer lounge for free coffee and snacks. 

 

BYD has over 100 dealerships in Thailand with more opening all the time. MG has even more. They are the brands that I would recommend if you do a lot of long distant (over 600km) trips.

[JBChiangRai]

I have charged my friend’s MG4 X-Power at the BYD Dealership albeit on my ReverSharger account.

 

I'm not sure whether you can get an account without a BYD vehicle.

[Pib]

1 hour ago, Bandersnatch said:

 

I own 2 BYD EVs, the vast majority of the time I charge them at home from my off-grid solar setup. On a long trip like a 900km round trip to BKK which I have done a few times recently I always charge at BYD showrooms which are exclusively for BYD owners. At 8 Baht per kWh they are about 1 Baht more expensive than the average charger so tend to be less popular. I use the BYD app to identify a dealership on my route and can see if the all the chargers are free. The chargers are plug and charge and about 20 minutes each way is all that is required. I can use the customer lounge for free coffee and snacks. 

 

 

The chargers at BYD showrooms are "not" exclusively for BYD owners. 

 

 Anyone who installs/registers the ReverSharger charging network app can use the chargers at the BYD showrooms.    And this also gives charging access to quite a few Shell Sharger chargers at Shell Stations....chargers at SUSCO stations

 

Now if a person owns a BYD vehicle it can be setup to automatically Plug & Charge versus needing to press an extra link or two on the app while charging.

 

Really, Rever just joined forces with Sharger to form the ReverSharger charging network.

 

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sharge.shargeapp&hl=en

[brfsa2]

On 4/28/2025 at 4:03 PM, impulse said:

I doubt that it'll be made in Thailand soon (if ever), but here's some eye candy from a company backed by Xiaomi, for $32,000 USD in China.  0-100 km/hr in less than 3 seconds.  It's called the JMEV-01, but you can also Google SC-01.  Released for public sale April 15.

 

 

https://carnewschina.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/jmev_01_launch-800x450.jpg

 

https://img-s.msn.cn/tenant/amp/entityid/AA1DIguk.img?w=768&h=1826&m=6

 

They should send this car to Autobahn with a good driver.

[brfsa2]

Took the Atto 3 for a loooong drive. 

 

Is that really a consumption bug? look like It can't go more than 99.9 kwh

I spent about 650 baht at PTT only. not too bad, but could be cheaper... this trip is still half the cost of an eco car, and 1/3 of a large car.

[KhunLA]

39 minutes ago, brfsa2 said:

Took the Atto 3 for a loooong drive. 

 

Is that really a consumption bug? look like It can't go more than 99.9 kwh

I spent about 650 baht at PTT only. not too bad, but could be cheaper... this trip is still half the cost of an eco car, and 1/3 of a large car.

That sounds about right, actually quite good.  Means you were using about 12.5 kWh / 100 kms, so guessing it wasn't all highway driving, and some stop & go, or through some hills, with a bit of regen.

[Pib]

9 hours ago, brfsa2 said:

Took the Atto 3 for a loooong drive. 

 

Is that really a consumption bug? look like It can't go more than 99.9 kwh

I spent about 650 baht at PTT only. not too bad, but could be cheaper... this trip is still half the cost of an eco car, and 1/3 of a large car.

 

Is that the screen that displays for a few seconds when turning off the car?   And if it is that screen then that screen resets each time to display the next driving event which starts when turning on the car and end when turning off the car.  Did you drive for 11.1 hours without ever turning off the car?

 

And since the Atto Extended range has a max range NEDC range of 480Km I kinda doubt your Atto has a 799Km range on a full tank of electrons with a full tank being 60.5Kwh for an extended range model and as mentioned a range of 480Km NEDC range (420Km WLTP).   But then again, maybe  you were driving downhill with a tailwind for 11 hours. 😉

 

I have an 2023 Atto Extended range and really scratching my head on your snapshot.   

[JBChiangRai]

Do any of our esteemed members live in Chiang Mai?

[brfsa2]

4 hours ago, Pib said:

 

Is that the screen that displays for a few seconds when turning off the car?   And if it is that screen then that screen resets each time to display the next driving event which starts when turning on the car and end when turning off the car.  Did you drive for 11.1 hours without ever turning off the car?

 

And since the Atto Extended range has a max range NEDC range of 480Km I kinda doubt your Atto has a 799Km range on a full tank of electrons with a full tank being 60.5Kwh for an extended range model and as mentioned a range of 480Km NEDC range (420Km WLTP).   But then again, maybe  you were driving downhill with a tailwind for 11 hours. 😉

 

I have an 2023 Atto Extended range and really scratching my head on your snapshot.   

 

Never stopped the car, charged while running it.

 

I actually drove way more than 11.1 hours. Total trip was 14:00 hours (left home 5:30, arrived 19:20)

 

I think BYD display didnt count charging time and the time wasted when PTT chargers all crashed and rebooted a few times.
 

What was really impressive, was the PTT station with EV HUB in Hua hin, it had 8 Super fast DC chargers is a format that looks like the pump, under the big roof, next to the Gas stations. Best experience I ever had. Also saw many of the EV Trash trucks recharging, those are massive batteries, and they charge every day.

 

Anyways, that was some really impressive engineering feat from PTT. If they continue doing this, my PTT stock will be happy 😄

There are 4 stations (2 cars per station), each station claimed to provide 180kW, that would mean 720kW or 1800 Amp total!! in the USA this is peanuts, but here, it's new.

being 3Phase, still we are talking about 600Amp per phase.

 

 

I used 148kWh for the 799km trip.

Total: 152.6 kW
Total - Losses: 148 kW

 

There seems to be a 3-4% losses from the CCS2 DC fast charger and the final battery storage. this could be due to the copper losses (i²r)

 

PTT Charger (Car display)

86.5kW (84.7kW) => 2.2kW losses
56.8kw (54.2kW) => 2.4kW losses

[brfsa2]

This one I was referring to: https://www.linkedin.com/posts/jaruwin-intharat-9389b91a2_ev-hub-at-ptt-station-huahin-were-activity-7234167185605046273-4uqC

https://www.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10231465389230573&id=1013432379

[brfsa2]

13 hours ago, KhunLA said:

That sounds about right, actually quite good.  Means you were using about 12.5 kWh / 100 kms, so guessing it wasn't all highway driving, and some stop & go, or through some hills, with a bit of regen.

No, it's a bug on BYD. stops at 99.9kW

 

man... That 12.5 is really hard to reach with the atto3, I know it's possible with the Tesla model 3 to reach under 13.0 kWh/100kms. maybe the Dolphin standard range could...

my actual usage was 18.5 kWh/100km 95% highway 90-110 km/h

I get 15.0kWh only in the city.

[motdaeng]

3 hours ago, brfsa2 said:

No, it's a bug on BYD. stops at 99.9kW

 

man... That 12.5 is really hard to reach with the atto3, I know it's possible with the Tesla model 3 to reach under 13.0 kWh/100kms. maybe the Dolphin standard range could...

my actual usage was 18.5 kWh/100km 95% highway 90-110 km/h

I get 15.0kWh only in the city.

 

tesla björn did some sunday driving with the byd sealion 7 awd and got a low consumption of 13.0 kwh per 100 km. to be honest, there’s a reason he called it sunday (slow) driving ...

https://youtu.be/6vM5l6Nh_p0?si=RsSjQfw3JuKLkKWi

 

 

i’ve also seen low numbers like that with my sealion 7 awd in city traffic, but on the highway, even with a modest driving style in eco mode, the consumption is usually closer to 18–19 kwh per 100 km ...

 

 

 

[Pib]

 

The consumption stats on BYD vehicles, like my Atto Extended Range, definitely use some BYD magic math....must have an algorithm that does "not" count or adjusts for certain electrical/battery electron usage.  Kinda like cherry picking of stats. 

 

I've had my Atto Extended Range with 60.48KwH battery now for a little over 18 months and little over 39,000 Km (time to go schedule the 40,000Km checkup since it needs to be done plus or minus 1,000km of 40,000km or at 24 months plus or minus one month....whichever comes first) and have done a LOT of evaluation/tracking of electron usage to include using a lot of OBD2 data that gives a lot of detail.   Even with all this evaluation/tracking my Atto has left me mystified at times in trying to figure out how BYD "figures" some of their electron usage stats.  

 

Like my Atto's consumption reading per 100Km has ranged from 12.6 to 12.8Kwh depending on the time of year. During the cooler part of the year it's 12.6Kwh..and during the hot part of the year like now it's 12.8Kwh.  Now I'm talking the consumption readout/stats you get when going in the big/center dash display Energy section; I'm not talking the constantly changing KwH usage as you drive along on the speedometer display.   I do think the speedometer display reflecting real time KmH usage is accurate but the comsumption info in the center display uses magic math/cherry picking math in my opinion.

 

Now if I divide 12.6 into 60.48 (my battery is a 60.48KwH battery) that equates to 4.8......multiply 100Km times 4.8 and I get a range of 480Km which also just happens to be the Atto's NEDC range 480KmH.  And whenever I charge to 100% with the range estimation set to Standard mode I get 480KmH range readout each and every time...not 479 or less or 481 or more....always exactly 480KmH in Standard range mode.  Now set it to Dynamic mode and I get a range estimate of 490 to 495 at 100% charge which is also a pie-in-the-sky estimate.  And if using 12.8 that equates to 472KmH range.   472, 480 and 49XKmH range estimates are "in your dream" estimates....probably possible if driving "without" A/C, in ECO mode, driving very conservatively, no headwind, and minimizing/avoiding any stop-and-go traffic jam and over 90KmH driving....that is, perfect driving conditions.

 

I expect even if the battery's SOH was 70%,a 100% charge would still give me a 480KmH range reading in Standard range mode when charged to 100% although the "real-world range" will be significantly less.    Like real-world I get a range of 420 to 442KmH if staying below 90KmH and also avoiding Bangkok horrendous traffic where a ton of stop and go is involved....both exceeding 90KmH and doing a lot of slow, red light stop-and-go driving eats significantly more electrons than cruising along between 30-90KmH.  I think for the Atto around 50-80KmH is its sweet spot for best range.  Best range is during the cooler part of the year; worst range during the hottest part of the year. I drive conservatively, in ECO mode, and A/C set to 22C.   

 

And I think a lot of people think a lot of red-right, slow driving will give the best range...oh no, it will not as it takes more energy to get a vehicle moving from a dead stop compared to already moving....and also regen braking typically is not engaged/working at around 15KmH or less like you would experience in stop-and-go, really slow moving traffic like often found on many big city roads.

 

Yeap, BYD uses magic math for some of its electron usage stats....cherry picking to make energy use look really good on the surface but is not really experienced in real world driving.   And it really not just BYD doing this as all car/truck manufacturers, EV and ICEV, give range stats obtained in laboratory type driving conditions and not real world driving conditions.  Preaching to the choir I know.

 

...

[motdaeng]

10 minutes ago, Pib said:

Kinda like cherry picking of stats.

 

i agree with you ... the consumption data from the car are not very useful or trustable ...

 

i've got my own numbers for the byd sealion 7 awd based on kwh charging, which also includes charging losses ...

[brfsa2]

20 minutes ago, Pib said:

red light stop-and-go driving eats significantly more electrons than cruising along between 30-90KmH

yep, there are losses in regen, and there are losses in acceleration with high current. high current => copper/heat losses in the wires.

I wonder if anyone ever reviewed EV car wires gauge and quality, I'm sure the BYDs are inferior and thinner than  the ones like in Tesla. To fast charge at 250kW, you need some crazy thick cables.

 

New BYD firmware shows dynamic ranges, mike usually show 5-10% less than with previous firmware, I have bigger tires and go 100-120 often, living in the best province of Thailand 😄  (235/60)

I get 16-18.0

[Pib]

5 hours ago, brfsa2 said:

There seems to be a 3-4% losses from the CCS2 DC fast charger and the final battery storage. this could be due to the copper losses (i²r)

 

PTT Charger (Car display)

86.5kW (84.7kW) => 2.2kW losses
56.8kw (54.2kW) => 2.4kW losses

 

34 minutes ago, motdaeng said:

 

i agree with you ... the consumption data from the car are not very useful or trustable ...

 

i've got my own numbers for the byd sealion 7 awd based on kwh charging, which also includes charging losses ...

 

 

I've found DC charger efficiency to be in the 95 to 98% ballpark....and more typically in the 97 to 98% ballpark.....or said another way, there is around  2 to 5% DC charging losses.     And for A/C 7KW/32A wall charger charging efficiency that's typically around 90 to 93%....a 7 to 10% loss.   Now a small, mobile A/C charger like a 10A charger will only have a efficiency of around 85%.  More about "losses" below.

 

 The loss comes not only from charging cable losses/heat (I²R) but also losses from the EV's battery management system (BMS) and EV cooling systems (water and A/C).  Although the EV's onboard charger (OBC) which is used for AC charging the OBC is "not' being used during DC charging but the BMS system still needs to use some electrons which don't make it to the battery and the battery cooling system will also work as needed to keep the battery cool.   

 

And it's quite common for the electrical A/C compressor and radiator electrical cooling fan plus electrical water pump to operate at a low level when DC charging as DC charging does heat-up the battery a lot more than when A/C 7KW wall charging.   This electrical A/C, fan, and/or pump electron usage will occur even with the EV turned off....and if it's a HOT day and you have already been driving for at least an hour to fully warm-up the battery then when you start the DC charging the AC/radiator fan/water pump electron usage is assured as the battery needs to be cooled as those electrons pour into the battery at a high amperage rate.   Typically, that when the "Active Cooling......" wording comes on the display when DC charging...."Active Cooling......" is BYD's way of saying its turning on the electrical radiator fan, electrical water pump, and even the electrical A/C compressor when needed in order to cool the battery while DC charging as a lot of amps is going into the battery.

 

Heck, even when A/C charging at 7-22KwH with the car turned off setting in your shaded carport the electrical radiator fan and water pump will operate at a low/slow level.   You usually have to listen closely or open the hood to hear, feel, and/or see the usage.  By see I mean the radiator fan turning intermittently.  By feel you can fee the water flow thru the "chiller" heat exchanger.  By hear I mean you can barely hear the water pump turning and the radiator fan turning intermittently.   The electrical water pump which is very quite will still pump glycol/water thru the battery and radiator....and the radiator fan will come on intermittently at a low speed.  All of this is using electrons which lowers the charging efficiency/cause losses when comparing what the charger says it's sending to the EV compared to what the EV's KwH display says is entering the battery.    That loss is cable heat loss plus electrical water pump, electrical radiatorfan, and/or electical A/C electron usage (loss).

[Pib]

49 minutes ago, brfsa2 said:

yep, there are losses in regen, and there are losses in acceleration with high current. high current => copper/heat losses in the wires.

I wonder if anyone ever reviewed EV car wires gauge and quality, I'm sure the BYDs are inferior and thinner than  the ones like in Tesla. To fast charge at 250kW, you need some crazy thick cables.

 

New BYD firmware shows dynamic ranges, mike usually show 5-10% less than with previous firmware, I have bigger tires and go 100-120 often, living in the best province of Thailand 😄  (235/60)

I get 16-18.0

 

"Where you say, "...To fast charge at 250KW you need some crazy thick cable......" you are right if the EV system is a 400V system.  But if it's an 800V system then the cable/wiring size can be the same because the increase voltage level provides the increased power/KwH while the amperage level does not have to be increased.  Wire size is driven by "amperage" and not voltage. 

 

Since Power (KwH) equals Voltage times Current (i.e, P=EI) if a charger cranks out 450V times 300A into the EV that is 135KW going into the EV.   On a 400V system approx 450-475V is used to reach full/100% charge.  But on an 800V system (which more and more EVs are slowing coming out with) using a 850V charging voltage at 300A (same amperage as on the 400V system) that pumps 255KW into the battery.   The EV's physical electrical wiring size is primarily determined by the "amperage" which needs to flow thru its charging wires; you can basically keep the wiring the same size by increasing the voltage while maintaining the amperage level.   

 

Yeap...800V and even some 1000V charging systems which allow really high KW power levels is because the increased KwH is obtained from using an increased voltage level and not an increased amperage level.....that is, the P=IE reason.   Increase power by increasing the voltage level (no need to increase wire size) and not the amperage level.  

 

 

[brfsa2]

1 hour ago, Pib said:

 

"Where you say, "...To fast charge at 250KW you need some crazy thick cable......" you are right if the EV system is a 400V system.  But if it's an 800V system then the cable/wiring size can be the same because the increase voltage level provides the increased power/KwH while the amperage level does not have to be increased.  Wire size is driven by "amperage" and not voltage. 

 

Since Power (KwH) equals Voltage times Current (i.e, P=EI) if a charger cranks out 450V times 300A into the EV that is 135KW going into the EV.   On a 400V system approx 450-475V is used to reach full/100% charge.  But on an 800V system (which more and more EVs are slowing coming out with) using a 850V charging voltage at 300A (same amperage as on the 400V system) that pumps 255KW into the battery.   The EV's physical electrical wiring size is primarily determined by the "amperage" which needs to flow thru its charging wires; you can basically keep the wiring the same size by increasing the voltage while maintaining the amperage level.   

 

Yeap...800V and even some 1000V charging systems which allow really high KW power levels is because the increased KwH is obtained from using an increased voltage level and not an increased amperage level.....that is, the P=IE reason.   Increase power by increasing the voltage level (no need to increase wire size) and not the amperage level.  

 

 

yep, I know, I know... 😄 I'm also a Computer Engineer, did in Thailand.
However one thing: even we know that at 800V you need half the current used for 400V, the cables still need to support 400V at high currents.

What you said is also true for power transmission lines. the 220V you get in the outlet has been stepped down multiple times, typically down from between 2kV and 33kV, the really high power lines are at 69kV or 115kV, even up to 500kV, so that that can send power to whole towns.

 

800V is really nice thou, not many cars here are on that platform yet, even the BYD Sealion 7.

The Sealion7 sold in Europe is on the 800V platform, and so it also costs more than the one sold here.

you get 800V only on the top end cars like the Porshe Tycan and Xpeng

 

 

[Pib]

I expect the higher Sealion 7 price in Europe is primarily due to higher EU taxes/import tariffs on Chinese made vehicles as compared to Thailand taxes/import tariffs on Chinese products like vehicles that don't fall into the luxury category.

[vinny41]

9 minutes ago, Pib said:

I expect the higher Sealion 7 price in Europe is primarily due to higher EU taxes/import tariffs on Chinese made vehicles as compared to Thailand taxes/import tariffs on Chinese products like vehicles that don't fall into the luxury category.

UK tarriffs are only 10%

Cost of Byd seal is between £45,705 - £48,705

Cost of Byd Sealion 7 is between £47,000 - £59,000

Most automotive brands charge whatever the market will hold

Before the recent Seal price reductions you could buy 2 Thailand seals for 1 UK seal based on B43.0 to the pound

 

[Pib]

1 hour ago, vinny41 said:

UK tarriffs are only 10%

Cost of Byd seal is between £45,705 - £48,705

Cost of Byd Sealion 7 is between £47,000 - £59,000

Most automotive brands charge whatever the market will hold

Before the recent Seal price reductions you could buy 2 Thailand seals for 1 UK seal based on B43.0 to the pound

 

Vehicle Import tariff of 10% "plus" a 20% VAT  sure raises the price of a new car in the UK.