THE WEEK THAT WAS Rooster feels like MacArthur as he returns to Koh Chang - the more things change the more they stay the same!

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OPINION | by Rooster

 

I felt a bit like US General Douglas MacArthur this week making a return to Koh Chang after a dozen years. MacArthur had famously said he'd return to The Philippines and did.

 

I knew I'd return to one of my favorite Thai holiday spots one day!

 

The island off the coast of Trat in the east had always been a go-to place for my first Thai family but my second brood of nippers had never been.

 

 

I first came to White Sands beach in 1990 when you had to cross the island on foot, there was no road. The locals were reeling from a double murder of some foreign tourists a few years prior.

 

At the dilapidated bungalows we stayed in there was no food. Order today, get tomorrow, we have to walk to the market, too!, said the meager staff!

 

Many trips in the 1990s and 2000s followed as I saw the potential not just for personal holidays but school trips.

 

 

A lot has changed especially since those early days. The development is enormous. Back in 1990 locals were dripping in gold and had many speedboats each - they had sold their land to developers in Bangkok for small fortunes and were waiting for the hotels to be constructed.

 

But the island still retains a lovely character and much of it is still very beautiful and unspoiled. Of course it helps to have your own transport and I was pleased to see it's only about 600 baht on the ferry there and back for the Civic and the tribe.

 

 

100 baht bungalows on the beach are yesteryear but I have air-con and luxurious beds for only 1,200 baht and meals have been huge and flavorsome.

 

I'm a happy camper (without the camping!) and most important of all, so are the family with the kids delighting in the nature and the clear seas.

 

But what is that smell in the air? Very pungent, I love it.

 

 

The garden here at Kai Bae beach is full of marijuana and there must be five shops on the road selling weed.

How times change, yet for many of us old timers, remain the same.

 

I was here on my birthday in 1990 and my first wife made ganja tom yam. A hilltribesman I met who had an Aussie girlfriend showed me how to construct a bong from bamboo. An important life skill!

 

On the bus back to Bangkok I remember a cop walking straight up to me and saying - in Thai - "Mee gancha mai?"

 

 

"Oh, mai mee khrap," I said as he walked off without a word as though he had done his duty and that was enough!

 

It was hidden in my sock next to my "teen" (undersole) - a place that cops were always reluctant to look especially with sweaty farangs....

 

 

I'm on a weed sabbatical so I won't be smoking this week but it's good to know that the more things change, they more they stay the same.

 

As I am on holiday this will be brief. Besides I spent the first three days at the snooker in Pathum Thani, a very good and well-attended event.

 

 

I'll be hoping that my favorite Thepchaiya Un-Nooh makes the final of the Six Red Worlds on Saturday - I would thoroughly recommend a visit.

 

VIP tickets will all have been sold but you can still view high up at the Thammasat Convention Centre for a pittance.

 

Now back to sniffing that fragrant breeze.....

 

Rooster

 

 

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[brianthainess]

Been living on KC for nearly 20yrs but i remember my first visit, 27yrs ago no electric, bamboo huts right on the beach, at check in, given the key and an oil lamp, communal toilets and showers,  grass was sold by the old lady at reception. 

But Rooster you didn't mention that the smog is also covering the island, can barely see the horizon this week. 

[BostonRob2]

4 hours ago, brianthainess said:

Been living on KC for nearly 20yrs but i remember my first visit, 27yrs ago no electric, bamboo huts right on the beach, at check in, given the key and an oil lamp, communal toilets and showers,  grass was sold by the old lady at reception. 

But Rooster you didn't mention that the smog is also covering the island, can barely see the horizon this week. 

Great. I'm from Bangkok, I think the air is clear everywhere else!

 

Thanks for reading.

 

Rooster

 

 

[Mark mark]

Yes Ko Chung has always been a Favorite of Mine also, like Development + ...  ( Though if they build their restaurants on the Beach ? ... Well just walk through them, !!! to get along the beach ??? … If you can, ? … As that really pisses them off !!! … As the sand Flips up nice and high, ... off of your Flip Flops !!! … Right ?)

 

… Yes The Development Might make you sick, BUT it is a Community based sort of afare I feel ??? … Like nothing Like Ph or Pa ... as it is an Island, … AND a pretty Geographically rough one also, so not much room for Unban Splats, behind the beach either Right ?

 

And Yes, Ok back in about the 90's I guess there was this Great little Kutoi Restaurant, about half way down White Beach !!! ... Which, Yes ! ... Had the Most Absolutely Clean and Best set up men’s Toilet that I have ever seen !!! ... Really nice Water Features, and just Great photos of ... Other Men of course, all around on the walls !!! … Like this was back when it still as Illegal I think ? or well just well ostracized any way !!! ,,, And these Guys were Local also I think ? ... Well local Boys, … And their friends !!! …. So well though not Gay. ... I WAS REALLY pleased to be on a South Sea Island !!! But also in a very socially Cutting Edge, and Progressive one, ... Like both the Restaurant ! … And it's Bathroom. ? Right ???

 

And I would not mind betting that White Beach is still that way, socially progressive !!! ... Like maybe with ganga now as you found out Rooster.

 

Yes, Great Photos to Rooster !!! ...

 

Yes though, just still to be Mark mark, right ? (The Protagonist ? ) ... You ought to try out these sort of Places in the Monsoon Season, on the Windward Side, for which ever season !!!

 

… Like as the boat gets in towards the Beach you notice that it is strangely Very Quiet !!! .... And as you get closer you just see that this is because there is Just NO one on the Beach at all !!!  .... You ask the Boat driver about this and he just says, "Oh the rainy Season, everything closed" ... ...

 

Like Hmmmm, well they did not tell us this when we bought our tickets, and got on the Boat !!! Did they !!! ....

 

… And well, getting ashore pretty wet, as yes about 2 to 3 M waves !!! (Like Varrrr as the Europeans would say) ... But you found One guest house open, and they opened a new wing for you, Like “Oddur De Bird <deleted> closed for 6 Months smell, … But well hey you have you own Total wing !!! …. and one restaurant at the other end of the Beach !!! …. ... AND well Hey !!! What just a Friendly, Interesting and great Crowd !!!  !!!

 

…. The little dark skinned Thai girl with the Foreign Boyfriend, (Like a very VERY Beautiful little lady, without going on” And a full blood !!! … Like archetypical Asian, Island beauty !!! … Right ?

 

... So you sneak in a "Speaking English" ??? … (When her boyfriend has turned away, ... and SHE still is most obviously is the Attention of the whole Boat any way !!!) … And the slow answer .... "Errr, Oh ??? .... Danish ??? " ... (An ethnic Southern Thai girl, who's Father was a Southern Thai police man, but who’s Mother married a Dane, and took her to live in Denmark, when she was 2, … And she now has Lived there all of her Life. ) … ( Like beats new York ? Right ??? )

 

… And so few People that everyone was just so friendly and we ALL got on, Like Phulu Pharenti (East Coast Malaysia, just over the border), and "small beach is it" ? ... ("Pantai Kessel" I think ) In the Monsoon Season, Like a bit of a different twist on the Life Lost Holiday, on the tropical island !!!

 

BUT I have done one very similar to that on Ko Chung as well ... Want to get away from the Crowd ??? Tourism !!! ??? .... Well just Go on a Holiday to one of those Thai or Malay Islands, in the wrong Season, right (Well the wrong season for Tourism right ? The Monsoon Season !!! ) ... (Like I was thinking about my Visa requirements when I was planning the trip !!!, … And Not the Weather !!! Right ?) .... But want to see something of a Different take on Life ???... Well Take a trip like this !!! and there are PLENTY of them available ! ? ..

 

(But Be Very VERY Careful if you swim !!! ... !!! Like a song tow load of Young men from Bangkok ? Pulled up when we were Wrong Seasoning it, on White Beach, Ko Chung,  ... They all just dropped their bags and 4 or 5 of them ran in to the surf !!! and close spaced High waves (And rips !!!) ... swam out to water far too deep for them .... and only 3 came back.

 

Their Patents came the next Day, and they sat on the beach for another 2 or 3 Days I think  ...before their Bodies popped back up !!! almost at the same place that they had euphorically run blindly in to the high and closely spaced seas.

 

There was a very nice English Woman running an Old Bungalow style place right up the North end of the Beach back then, by a little Creak coming out of the Jungle, like you had to walk along the Beach to get there. …

 

There was a robery of sevaral places while we were there that time, a cat burglar at night ? ... He banged the Posts of the Bungalo with a stick so it shook slightly ... then put his head in the window to see if you were still asleep ??? ... ( Some Indonesian Thieves driped water on my Face for the same purpose once, to see if I was heavily asleep as I slept on my camara !!! and just laughed when I woke up, ... Like TIIS (This is Indonesians), they always laugh, as they try to rob you ? Right ???) ...

 

Any way, Luckily I was not asleep .. Still had a half bottle of San Son left didn't I ! ... The one case I have had, I suppose of being Saved by the Bottle !!! ... Rather than Just <Deleted> by it and Crucified ???

 

I saw him, a Older teen or Young Man with Long hair I think. ... and he ran and back down the beach also I think ? When I sat up in bed. !!!

 

... But those that were asleep even lost their money belts out from under their pillow AND their mattresses also !!! ... Like these people are good at what they do you ought to know !!! .... The nice Englosh Woman Owner ? said that all the Bungalow owners knew who they were, ... But that they had left early the mourning, after they had been Robbing places all down the Beach that night.

 

Yes I should have gotten up and made a fuss, and shouted Blue murder shouldn't I ! ? .. To stop him doing more ??? ... But well I am Not even close to being that perfect either you know. ... I went back to sleep, ... well closed the window first right !!! ...

 

 

… Yes I nearly Died as "Smart Ass Mark mark", by bravely going swimming a bit later on in life, when the Weather was also like this, and the warning signs saying “NO SWIMING”, on Kata beach in Phuket in the Monsoon season once, … and YESS ... I Was very Very VERY Lucky, not to have drowned. ... And for Tough Auzie swimmer ! Mark mark, This was a VERY BIG !!! Surprise, I can tell you.

 

And I put this in here, as it is a very VERY Good warning, for any one even contemplating swimming in the Monsoon, the wet Season. If the wind and Seas are High.

 

… I had got caught in a rip and was going backwards, and out to sea faster than I could swim, I could not touch the bottom, … the rip pushed me quickly out of that area !!! ... Like YES I HAD GONE OUT TOO FAR !!! …  and the powerful and closely spaced 3 to 3 M ? Monsoon waves were Hitting me about every 5 Second, …. and Pounding me down to the bottom again.  … (Like it probably had done to the 2 Unfortunate Thai school boys, on that other Trip to White sands in the Wet season. ) …

 

Yes Lesson Learnt Mark mark. … But only just !!! ... As the rip was not as powerful as the others. ... As if it had been !!! ... Well I would not be here now.

 

Still, better get on, Things to do. ... Nice Job Rooster !!! and good to see you back. ... Have fun with you family. ... (I always did on that Island too !!! … Though well I did not have the Kids to worry about with me back then.) 

 

… ( Or to save me either !!! right ! ? )

 

Mark mark

[Mark mark]

Possibly Bad Luck for you this week R, .... by having your Column being put right next to the Once again very Deceive,  ... Well not so much here as every one seems quite agreed on the Go fund me critical Accident, d/t Irresponsible action, BY the Foreigner.

 

But well  3 Pages of responses in 2 Hrs !!! ... It stole you audience I would think for sure ? 

 

... I wonder if I could ask AN about the Ethnical reasons ? for posting such an Obvious just Total Divisive, Loosers argument like this ??? ... Where Foreigners are obviously trying to attack the Thai system, and well pretty obviously Lying ? (I think) ... For their own benefit, Like he can NOT be Medi-Vacked, for Medical Reasons, so the people in the know here seem to say ! ? ... So is it just a only Making Scam, to be quite Obvious. ? ....  Can we track what they do with this money ??? ...

 

God I hope that not to many people are sucked in by this one ! ? ...

 

... And When it only can <Deleted> up, we others who can think and plan betters situations ???

[brianthainess]

3 hours ago, Mark mark said:

Yes Ko Chung

 

3 hours ago, Mark mark said:

I WAS REALLY pleased to be on a South Sea Island !!!

 

[Colabamumbai]

I will make up for your shortfall of smoke this week. Smell that smell. 

[Hanuman2547]

I loved Koh Chang back in the early 90's!  It was a fun place and back then.  I haven't been back in over 10 years.  I can only imagine what it is like now as it was full of big resorts even then.  

[jacko45k]

8 hours ago, Hanuman2547 said:

I loved Koh Chang back in the early 90's!  It was a fun place and back then.  I haven't been back in over 10 years.  I can only imagine what it is like now as it was full of big resorts even then.  

I suspect the great little huts I got on the beach in Kai Bae for 1000 baht with breakfast for two have been replaced with pricier ones by now. *AC and hot shower, (hot and cold running ants!????). Idyllic looking place........ getting up early and strolling into the sea for a swim.  Yes it was nice. 

[bbbbooboo]

Progress has a price which is usually the serenity of the place it seeks to improve. Thousands of examples around the world

[Mark mark]

1 minute ago, bbbbooboo said:

Progress has a price which is usually the serenity of the place it seeks to improve. Thousands of examples around the world

Thanks.

[onthedarkside]

An inflammatory post and reply have been removed

[brianthainess]

3 hours ago, jacko45k said:

I suspect the great little huts I got on the beach in Kai Bae for 1000 baht with breakfast for two have been replaced with pricier ones by now. *AC and hot shower, (hot and cold running ants!????). Idyllic looking place........ getting up early and strolling into the sea for a swim.  Yes it was nice. 

1,000b ! you can still find accommodation here on the beach 600bht no free breakfast, but hot shower. across the road from beach 500b. My daughter just came to visit and stayed 'on the beach' at white sand, 600b a night but i got locals discount off that!

[geisha]

Koh Chang is my favorite. Been going for many years. It’s mostly National Park and the walks are fantastic. The sea bright blue, clean empty beaches, nice people. 
ps, think that Mark Marc poster above has smoked too much !! 

[Stargeezr]

Great to read your article Rooster. I have good memories of Koh Chang. Visited there with my Thai family several years ago.

  I also visited Phuket several years ago, and when i went back the last time some places where I used to stay are gone.

My Thai family said the same thing about Koh Chang, More developed and some places new and modern built where

some old places with cabins once stood. I am glad to hear that the beaches are still in good shape and the ocean still looks clean.

[GarryP]

Posts like this just show me how little I have seen of Thailand despite having lived here for decades. Never been to Koh Chang, and only got to Krabi for the first time last year. Think I am going to have to start traveling a bit more now I'm retired, and will put Koh Chang on my to visit places. 

[jacko45k]

16 hours ago, GarryP said:

Posts like this just show me how little I have seen of Thailand despite having lived here for decades. Never been to Koh Chang, and only got to Krabi for the first time last year. Think I am going to have to start traveling a bit more now I'm retired, and will put Koh Chang on my to visit places. 

Get it done before it becomes too much like hard work. I have done it a couple of ways. Set a target of where to go and me and my Thai lady did it. Easy to find hotels all over the place. Did it on public transport, including trains, borrowed a truck once, and another time used my own vehicle. Obviously having your own transport works out most convenient... you can carry more <deleted>.  Thai lady useful due to limited language ability on my part....

[Mark mark]

On 3/12/2023 at 12:14 PM, geisha said:

Koh Chang is my favorite. Been going for many years. It’s mostly National Park and the walks are fantastic. The sea bright blue, clean empty beaches, nice people. 
ps, think that Mark Marc poster above has smoked too much !! 

Noo I do not smoke (Any More) and I do not drink before 6 pm ... I just write ! ? and well Think differently I guess. ...

[Scott]

Inflammatory post reported and removed.

 

[Mark mark]

Well, have not seen your Column this week R ! ??? ... I DO hope that you are OK. ... Like who will be able to chip in a bit of good English Slang if you are not around !!! ... Like we will just be left with the Advertisements ? ... Right ??? ...

 

... Though yes !!! a Bit less Content from me also might help I guess, so well. .... Working on it.

[Ponlamai]

Maybe it's time to rebadge this page to 'The Month That Was' or should that be 'The Year That Was'.

What happened? Did you get stoned and you missed it or something? I certainly do miss the weekly rave. After a 6 year break from late 2017 till now I'm headed back in July for a couple of months to see for myself how things have changed in southern Thailand and Peninsular Malaysia.

[scottiejohn]

I clicked on this link thinking, and hoping, that Rooster had come back into the print media.  Alas it looks like he is still doing his video thing which I just do not like.