Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
52 minutes ago, bluejets said:

Might be a good move to invest in an engine guard warning system when you replace the engine.

 

Water temperature guages only work properly when the probe is in water.

Loose the water and the guage simply sits there looking normal, no good to anyone.

 

https://engineguard.com.au/

Wow! Didn't know that. Assumed the needle would go to one extreme as a warning. Many thanks for the tip!

Posted
13 hours ago, Lacessit said:

I have never heard of an acid coolant, if anything they tend to be alkaline.

The excess rust you see is nothing compared to what is lining the passageways of the engine and radiator, and affects heat transfer. Metals conduct heat, rust doesn't. To say nothing of what it is doing to the water pump.

Coolants also perform the function of elevating boiling point as well as depressing freezing point. Coolants raise the boiling point of the fluid to above 130 C, a useful property in the Thai climate.

I wish you good luck with your engine, you are going to need it.

 

 

Ok so it Alkaline  (Ph7? ) anyway that makes more sense as it eats the 'glue' holding the top header tank to the aluminum core, it been ok now for 6yrs and only used locally it's 23yrs old not my main car.  

  • Thumbs Up 1
Posted
51 minutes ago, The Fugitive said:

Assumed the needle would go to one extreme as a warning

Only if submerged in water as in say a blown head gasket heating the water to extreme level. ...........like I said above.

If the water disappears, nothing.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
17 minutes ago, Lacessit said:

Anything above pH 7 is alkaline. Some coolants have triethanolamine as a buffer agent, which raises the pH to 8.

I seriously doubt alkaline pH is the cause of the attack on the "glue", it's far more likely organic compounds such as ethylene glycol are responsible for the glue being degraded.

Trust me, I was a chemist before I morphed into a research scientist.

Modern antifreeze/coolants have OAT technology (organic acid technology) so they no longer taste sweet , to prevent accidental consumption. Older vehicles may not be suitable to this newer stuff , including the dreaded Ethanol.

Posted
12 minutes ago, ktm jeff said:

Modern antifreeze/coolants have OAT technology (organic acid technology) so they no longer taste sweet , to prevent accidental consumption. Older vehicles may not be suitable to this newer stuff , including the dreaded Ethanol.

Your post is misleading, organic acids in coolants are buffered by stronger alkali such as Na+ and K+. Putting organic acids alone into a mixed alloy system ( e.g copper, brass, steel, aluminium )  would be a fast path to corrosion disaster.

I assume your reference to ethanol is in relation to fuel, putting ethanol into coolant would create an azeotrope with a boiling point of 78 C. Coolants are usually designed to raise the fluid boiling point to above 130 C.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 minute ago, Kwasaki said:

Coolant fluid really is not rocket science.

Is this the same thread, how's the reconditioned engine swap out going OP. 

Thanks for asking! The mechanics were looking yesterday and haven't yet got back to us. 

Posted
2 minutes ago, The Fugitive said:

Thanks for asking! The mechanics were looking yesterday and haven't yet got back to us. 

The guys will get hold of one, no worries best way to go,  the main part of the truck can still go on for decades so your doing the right thing. 

Why buy a a new motor if it is just something to get you to A to B.

Status symbol's are not my thing either, practability is. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
2 hours ago, The Fugitive said:

Thanks for asking! The mechanics were looking yesterday and haven't yet got back to us. 

Sorry if i hi-jacked your thread but i thought the subject of coolant was important if you you don't want to spend more than say 4k on a new radiator. :jap: 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Kwasaki said:

Coolant fluid really is not rocket science.

Is this the same thread, how's the reconditioned engine swap out going OP. 

I guess corrosion is not rocket science either, even it is governed by coolant composition and water chemistry.

Very little point to installing a reco engine if it gets stuffed up by an incompatible radiator or coolant. Next, you'll be advising the OP to run the engine on palm oil, lubrication is not rocket science either.

News flash - there are about 36,000 NACE members in 130 countries who would disagree with you.

Posted
13 hours ago, Lacessit said:

I guess corrosion is not rocket science either, even it is governed by coolant composition and water chemistry.

Very little point to installing a reco engine if it gets stuffed up by an incompatible radiator or coolant. Next, you'll be advising the OP to run the engine on palm oil, lubrication is not rocket science either.

News flash - there are about 36,000 NACE members in 130 countries who would disagree with you.

Checking the coolant system on a replacement engine recon or engine sorced from another vehicle is not rocket science either. 

Only advising OP or supporting on what he is doing.

Don't care who disagrees with me. 

  • Thumbs Up 2
Posted
10 minutes ago, QballQ said:

spacer.png

 

 UZ engines available here cheaply, cheap labour, V8 sounds.

 

.............and V8 economy................????.............????

  • Haha 1
Posted
7 hours ago, transam said:

.............and V8 economy................????.............????

With that in mind, the furthest our pickup goes is 11 km each way to the wholesalers. On average, once every ten days. There's a green Mustang around our way, maybe could give him a run for his money?

  • Thumbs Up 1
  • Haha 1
Posted

 

1 hour ago, transam said:

.............and V8 economy................????.............????

Japanese V8 economy, thank you very much!

 

34 minutes ago, The Fugitive said:

With that in mind, the furthest our pickup goes is 11 km each way to the wholesalers. On average, once every ten days. There's a green Mustang around our way, maybe could give him a run for his money?

Have a look on Kaidee or FB marketplace - search 1UZ and you can see a good selection of conversions. 

 

I believe side exit exhausts are the only appropriate thing for a modified 1UZ toyota hilux

  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 1
Posted
On 5/10/2023 at 5:06 AM, Lacessit said:

The ethylene glycol usually in the coolant package would probably attack the plastic components in the radiator, hence the warning.

Engines are a lot more expensive than radiators. The logic of buying a cheap part in place of a radiator designed to be compatible with the engine escapes me.

Coolants have corrosion inhibitors in their formulation. By operating the system with only water, and a mixture of alloy and steel, you are inviting rust in.

Right on...use coolant or face water pump problems....I bought a physically perfect looking car but it over heated and over heated...no coolant for years...I sold it for the body parts

  • Thanks 1
Posted
59 minutes ago, transam said:

Weeell, I put a Chevy 5.7 V8 into a VW caravanette, I think it did bring a smile to the unprepared...????

do any wheelies? must have been a monster!

  • Haha 1
Posted
On 5/12/2023 at 4:24 PM, transam said:

Weeell, I put a Chevy 5.7 V8 into a VW caravanette, I think it did bring a smile to the unprepared...????

Perhaps it was a rictus of terror when you went into a bend.

Posted
24 minutes ago, Lacessit said:

Perhaps it was a rictus of terror when you went into a bend.

Dunno, I never drove it, but the implant was done to pull a heavy racing motorbike and equipment trailer, which it did admirably.....................:stoner:

  • Love It 1
Posted

Today the guys got back to my Mrs. Told her a reconditioned engine would be 70,000 baht and, of course, it might have suffered the same fate as our own. They estimate 48,000 baht (parts and labour) for repair of engine and replacement radiator etc. Apparently, they're already onto it.

Engine Dismantled.jpg

Posted
17 minutes ago, The Fugitive said:

Today the guys got back to my Mrs. Told her a reconditioned engine would be 70,000 baht and, of course, it might have suffered the same fate as our own. They estimate 48,000 baht (parts and labour) for repair of engine and replacement radiator etc. Apparently, they're already onto it.

Engine Dismantled.jpg

So your going with 48,000 I don't see a problem.

A friend of mine a good few years back got his old engine re-coned by a local guy 38,000 and all was good.

Later on sold the truck for more than he paid for it the jamy guy. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
7 hours ago, Kwasaki said:

So your going with 48,000 I don't see a problem.

A friend of mine a good few years back got his old engine re-coned by a local guy 38,000 and all was good.

Later on sold the truck for more than he paid for it the jamy guy. 

Thanks! Have to hope for the best. I was a bit shocked because I believed the engine wasn't fixable. 

Posted
1 minute ago, The Fugitive said:

Thanks! Have to hope for the best. I was a bit shocked because I believed the engine wasn't fixable. 

No a bit of rubbing down and cleaning up parts, replacing what needs to be replaced, new gaskets and seals no problem.

 

It's all case of labour costs in a country like Thailand.

 

 

  • Thumbs Up 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.




×
×
  • Create New...