Any recommendations for a security camera installer in Pattaya?

[3STTW]

Our system is pretty old and the NVR has started overheating. Some of the cameras aren't working well either.

 

The system could do with an upgrade so I'm looking for a reliable installer.

[bluejets]

Considered DIY..??

Easy as falling off a log , if you can pull through a cable and push a couple of connectors together.

Although, if you are upgrading, the original cabling should still be ok.

Then there are wireless camera options, although you still need power so I could never see the point.

[moogradod]

1 hour ago, bluejets said:

......................................

Then there are wireless camera options, although you still need power so I could never see the point.

The point is that those cameras might be rechargeable battery operated. One charge lasts several months.

[action]

Hi!  
I know it's not normal on this forum but Yes, I can give you a straight forward answer to your straight forward question:

 

Retail HQ / Liberty Computers

Located on Soi Siam Country Club almost to the lake.  

The Manager's name is John, he's great.  Otherwise request Kuhn New.  He's very good and speaks good English.  

Cheers

 

[yankyoakum]

Wong at IT Smart does very good work, find him on FB, he is in Chonburi.......someone hit our automatic gate, and broke the motor controller, they replaced with a better one that includes battery back up. Then they installed a 7 camera system around the house and inside lounge and dining room.  Pricing was decent and after install, adjustments and help was FOC.. Worth looking at. They do good work.

[moogradod]

IF you can find a decent surveillance camera system, DIY is very easy and cheap.

The best camera system on the market today is ARLO IMHO. Unfortunately, they do not support remote storage in the cloud from Thailand (must be some legal issue, I think). Cloud Storage is vital IMHO for what good does it do to you if the event videos are recorded on a local recorder if this very recorder will then be taken away by the burglar and with it any evidence.

 

I propose the following requirements:

 

1. Base Station which does support the number of WiFi cameras you need (in my case 5)

2. Outdoor and Indoor possible

3. Cloud Storage (7 day max is enough) of videos accessible from any desktop. You may download the videos as needed.

4. Intelligent event detection (distinguishing a dog from a person)

5. Immediate alarm to several mobile phones in case of an event

6. Night view

7. Very loud siren at least 100db, more is better

8. Strong Base Station which may support the cameras even through walls for a whole 1 storey house, possibly with a WiFi repeater acceptable for 2 storey.

9. Cameras with rechargeable batteries with long operating life per charge (several months)

10. Installation both possible standing on a shelf and on a wall

11. Indoor cameras as small as possible to avoid easy detection at first sight

 

Of course you can give an order to a reputable company as listed above. Then you might perhaps not need independent cameras (WiFi and Battery) for the cabling will be done by the company and you get a turnkey solution, which is nice as well. Without cabling it all comes down to a configuration issue, which you might be able to do yourself easily. In either case it is worth considering some of the other requirements.

 

I am in the process of building my own system as well. Maybe I would even consider the companies that you recommend here if I do not find something on the market that I could install myself easily and which fulfill my requirements. So far I did not succeed, but it seems I come close.

[3STTW]

Thanks for all the useful replies.

 

Right now, I'm going to be upgrading an existing wired system. I'm in two minds whether to go DIY or get an installer to do it. I can do it myself - it's just time vs. money, as always.

 

WiFi and other radio security systems are easily jammed/scrambled with cheap 'black boxes' available on the internet, so I won't be going down that route. Waste of money.

 

On reflection, what I should have asked is "Where can I buy quality cameras and NVR without getting ripped off?"! And I guess some of you guys have answered that question already.

 

Cheers.

[sometimewoodworker]

1 hour ago, 3STTW said:

On reflection, what I should have asked is "Where can I buy quality cameras and NVR without getting ripped off?

My opinion on that is to buy directly from Reolink on https://store.reolink.com/th/poe-ip-cameras/ they have PoE cameras at a reasonable price for 4K 8MP versions at bit over $100  and an 8-Channel 2TB HDD PoE NVR, for about $230 

[KhaoYai]

Not an answer to your original question but.............................

 

Make sure that whatever you fit and whoever installs it - include decent surge protection in the power supply and don't leave any monitor hardwired to the system.

 

I returned home a few weeks ago to find the circuit board in my DVR wrecked.  The system was only 8 months old - the problem was traced to a surge caused by lightning in recent storms that had burned some connections in the HDMI from the monitor to the DVR.  I didn't leave the monitor switched on but I did leave it connected to both the mains and to the DVR via the HDMI cable. Lesson learned.

[moogradod]

Surge Protection is anyway advisable for all critical components, this includes for example as well the modem. I have 2 APC Uninterrupted Power Supplies for my IT Infrastructure.

 

The cameras - if battery driven are anyway excluded then. Another argument for battery operation.

 

And I would like to suggest to think about cloud storage for the videos instead of DVR. For obvious reasons.

[mahjongguy]

Seems like the OP has gotten some useful replies but here are some additional random thoughts based on the 19-camera system that I designed, built, and manage for our mooban as a donation:

- Professionals don't use Wi-Fi cameras unless there really is no alternative. There are some technical aspects of CCTV that are not suitable for Wi-Fi connection. At the very least, ensure that there is a convenient way to power-cycle the camera without having to climb a ladder.

- Nearly everyone has exaggerated expectations about image quality because of what is portrayed in movies.  For sure, without lots of light, nighttime images will be monochrome and movement will be blurred.

- Cloud storage requires a high-speed Internet connection (which often is too easy to disable), usually monthly charges, and you lose exclusive rights to the video.

- Most CCTV cameras run Linux and many contain spyware that can view your cams, take part in global DOS attacks, and get inside of any computers connected to the same LAN. There are two fixes for this: buy a high-end VPN router and hire an IP professional to configure it. Or, "air gap" the CCTV system by not connecting it to your household LAN in any way. Quite safe but has the downside of no remote access or notifications to your mobile phone.  

 

Since we'll be moving this summer to a new house in a different mooban, I am already designing a 13-camera system and stocking up on parts from Ali Express.

 

Residential CCTV is a huge topic. Much more to say but it's naptime.  

 

 

 

 

[KhaoYai]

On 5/27/2023 at 7:54 AM, moogradod said:

7. Very loud siren at least 100db, more is better

If you want to really P off your neighbours.

 

I've fine tuned my cameras - set them to the optimum detection sensitivity, masked off any areas where they might pick up innocent activity (passing cars etc.). The cameras are also only supposed to pick up human activity through infra red heat sensing but they still send me at least one false alarm per day.

 

My siren is independent from the cameras and operated by an internet switch (TP Link Tapo) so if I get an alert and it is an intruder, I set it off - quick tap on my phone.

[moogradod]

1 hour ago, KhaoYai said:

If you want to really P off your neighbours.

 

I've fine tuned my cameras - set them to the optimum detection sensitivity, masked off any areas where they might pick up innocent activity (passing cars etc.). The cameras are also only supposed to pick up human activity through infra red heat sensing but they still send me at least one false alarm per day.

 

My siren is independent from the cameras and operated by an internet switch (TP Link Tapo) so if I get an alert and it is an intruder, I set it off - quick tap on my phone.

Currently we do not have any immediate neighbors, but soon we will. They are actually part of my security concept without even knowing (yet) ????. Of course your idea of a seperate siren is very good. Anyway there is no system (cameras, hub, siren) on the market (exept ARLO) that does fulfill all requirements. So it will be a seperate siren for me, too. It is to P off the burglar, not the neighbours.

 

May I ask what siren you use ? And what cameras ? If ever possible I would like to stick to my idea of rechargeable battery operated types since I have very good experience with ARLO. But since ARLO does not work from Thailand (Cloud Storage not allowed) my second choice would have been TP Link Tapo, but they only have a set of 2 cameras. Acccording to a review on Amazon non extendable although they offer a Cloud Storage plan for up to 5 cameras.

 

A supplier on Lazada which I contacted does not answer to this question. I would want 5 cameras. Any idea ?

 

Any hint would really help for in the very worst case I would need to contact a local company to do it for me (wired I suppose then) This would probable be expensive and give me less control.

[moogradod]

20 hours ago, mahjongguy said:

Seems like the OP has gotten some useful replies but here are some additional random thoughts based on the 19-camera system that I designed, built, and manage for our mooban as a donation:

- Professionals don't use Wi-Fi cameras unless there really is no alternative. There are some technical aspects of CCTV that are not suitable for Wi-Fi connection. At the very least, ensure that there is a convenient way to power-cycle the camera without having to climb a ladder.

- Nearly everyone has exaggerated expectations about image quality because of what is portrayed in movies.  For sure, without lots of light, nighttime images will be monochrome and movement will be blurred.

- Cloud storage requires a high-speed Internet connection (which often is too easy to disable), usually monthly charges, and you lose exclusive rights to the video.

- Most CCTV cameras run Linux and many contain spyware that can view your cams, take part in global DOS attacks, and get inside of any computers connected to the same LAN. There are two fixes for this: buy a high-end VPN router and hire an IP professional to configure it. Or, "air gap" the CCTV system by not connecting it to your household LAN in any way. Quite safe but has the downside of no remote access or notifications to your mobile phone.  

 

Since we'll be moving this summer to a new house in a different mooban, I am already designing a 13-camera system and stocking up on parts from Ali Express.

 

Residential CCTV is a huge topic. Much more to say but it's naptime. 

 

I think it is a big difference if you set up a system for a moo baan or just your residence with a moderate number of cameras, not to talk of legal issues as well. You have some very good points. Of course wireless cameras are theoretically hackable. And the hub (I have as well a Synology NAS with surveillance application that runs on Linux) might be as well. But then again my main IT-systems would be most probably very difficult to hack. They are heavily protected. Mobiles I only need for immediate alarms and the phones do not contain anything sensitive. And it would take a big amount of criminal energy only to see me having dinner.

 

But does this not as well depend all very much on the components you choose ? I doubt the Cloud Storage with Nord (Nord Locker) takes away your rights to your own videos. It is fully encrypted end to end. And ARLO for example has sophisticated log-in protection. You mention Ali Express for your components. I suppose these are mostly of Chinese origin. Well.....or do you mind to share the components which you intend to use ? I am interested to know since you have set up a bigger system. Currently my favourite would be TP-Link Tapo, but it seems their only system is for 2 cameras only and cannot be extended. I would need but only 5 cameras. And I am willing to take all (very theoretically potential) risks with battery operated models.

[KhaoYai]

On 5/29/2023 at 2:31 AM, moogradod said:

May I ask what siren you use ? And what cameras ? If ever possible I would like to stick to my idea of rechargeable battery operated types since I have very good experience with ARLO. But since ARLO does not work from Thailand (Cloud Storage not allowed) my second choice would have been TP Link Tapo, but they only have a set of 2 cameras. Acccording to a review on Amazon non extendable although they offer a Cloud Storage plan for up to 5 cameras.

I bought the Siren in the UK on Ebay years ago - sorry can't remember any more details but its 12v so I run it off a 12v power supply plugged in to a normal socket. It is deafening and that's what you need - not many burglars will stay around with that racket going on.  As I said before, its activated by a TP Link Tapo internet switch from my phone.

 

As for my system - its wired, I am often away for months so wouldn't trust a battery system. I previously had a Swann system that again, I bought off Ebay in the UK.  I had a lot of problems with it and Swann were less than useless - long story but one example is that they took 5 months to reply to an e-mail.  Eventually I decided that I couldn't play around with security as I'm not in Thailand full time. Prompted by the lack of service from Swann I bought a Watashi system from a local supplier called Advice.  They installed it but the power supplies for the cameras and the conduits (metal) for the wiring to reach the DVR were already in as I'd installed them for the Swann system.

 

I've had a few problems with the Watashi system but to be fair - mostly because they failed to make their new App compatible with Android 13.  I'd been running the system for 3 months when it stopped working following an App update.  Again long story but once they accepted that their App was at fault and not my phone, they made changes and it worked again.  The other problem I had (and currently still have) is that the monitor I use at the house was hit by lighting or a power surge recently and although it was turned off, it was plugged in to the DVR and consequently burned out part of the DVR circuit board.  It wasn't the end of the world though - the damage wasn't covered under warranty but the supplier sent the DVR back to Watashi who have installed a new circuit board for 1000 baht.  Its now waiting for me to return. Fit good quality surge protection and don't leave any monitor connected to the DVR.

 

I found it a pain that Advice had to send my DVR back to Watashi for repair and that it took a month - I was returning to the UK 2 weeks after it was damaged and didn't want my house unprotected so I bought 3 Vstarcam IP cameras to cover the main areas on Lazada and installed them.  I've had Vstarcams before and for the price, they are very good.  They are 'last year's' model so they were very cheap - 750 baht each.  I'll be re-fitting the Watashi DVR when I next return but the little IP cameras will remain as a back up.

 

After having 3 different systems at my house to date I would comment thus: CCTV systems can be troublesome, regularly send false alarms and can be pretty easy to disconnect.  They should only be used as PART of your security - you will quickly realise that yes, you can see an intruder at your house but what are you going to do about it?  Unless you have a neighbour or friend that can be on the scene quickly, your evening's entertainment is likely to be watching the burglars break into your house and carry off your belongings.

 

My house was broken into - that's what prompted me to install CCTV and I quickly realised the above.  I had a small Vstarcam system at the time and got photos and videos of the incident which I presented to the police who did absolutely nothing other then make out a report.  The guy on the videos looked well dodgy and I'm pretty sure he would have been known to the police if they'd actually bothered to check.

 

Burglars are in the main, opportunists and will pick out easy targets.  They don't like to be on the scene long and they don't want to be visible.  If they arrive at a difficult target, they will move on unless they have specifically targeted your home for some reason.  Spend time looking for weaknesses - my UPVC doors for example, were very easy to 'kick in', despite the impressive looking 5 point locking system.  Doors and windows that are out of sight should be given particular attention. My main entrance is now protected by a steel gate with a metal box over one of the three padlocks to prevent the lock being barred off - its ugly but needed.  I had my gate made locally - I wasn't impressed by what's available from Homepro and the like. Its bolted to the walls, the bolt heads are welded on the outside and the bolts go right through the wall.  There's not much point fitting a security gate that can be easily barred off or unbolted.

 

I have 2 sets of UPVC glass French doors on my balconies that again would be fairly easy to kick in - I installed a removeable steel bar across the middle of each of them on the inside to prevent that.  Yes, the glass could be broken but that's not as easy as it seems and unless they are professional burglars, doing that would be noisy.  Light is something burlars don't like - install solar powered high level lights with PIR's. Good quality ones are not expensive now and very easy to fit. Take a look around your house and decide how you would get in if you lost your keys - those cheap rubbish Chinese sliding windows can be opened with a penknife.

 

CCTV installers will usually pick the easiest way for them - try to avoid visible/reachable cables and locate your DVR in a secure, non visible location. Its not much use recording a break in if the burgars carry your DVR off. Any cables that are reachable should be carried in steel conduit. Cloud storage may be useful but will your local plod do anything with any recordings you provide?  My Vstarcams used to send me videos of any events without cloud storage - that seems to have stopped but I'm trying to work out why.

 

Overall, make it so that an intruder would have to spend time getting in and try to make them visible, the chances are that they'll move on. Don't rely on CCTV as your only form of protection.

 

 

[moogradod]

1 hour ago, KhaoYai said:

I bought the Siren in the UK on Ebay years ago - sorry can't remember any more details but its 12v so I run it off a 12v power supply plugged in to a normal socket. It is deafening and that's what you need - not many burglars will stay around with that racket going on.  As I said before, its activated by a TP Link Tapo internet switch from my phone.

 

As for my system - its wired, I am often away for months so ..............

 

Thank you very much for your feedback to which I can agree almost in every aspect - exept for the battery operation and the must-have cloud storage. No DVR. But in our case we are four people and 2 children and it is rare that everybody is away for a prolonged period of time. I have had excellent experiences with the ARLO system.

 

I had a buglary myself in Switzerland in my condo before. But at the time I was alone and they explored when I left for work for sure. Then it is a 5 minutes job or nothing. Thats how they behave over there. I do not know in Thailand. I then put in a security door with multiple locks plus a protection for the lock besides having of course security level keys. I have not seen any of that available in Thailand. Our current door in a quite high end condo is 70 year old technology. WIth the new door in Switzerland there was no way for a burglar to break in easily if at all without using explosives. The door was something around CHF 3'800.-- alone which equates to roughly THB 144K.

 

But our house now has huge windows as well. They cannot be protected with steel bars unless our house would look like a prison. But if I think more about it ....... We have now blinds on the outside to prevent too much sun inside the house. Will think about it and I still have some months time. The house is surrounded with medium high walls. I play with the idea to put some protection on them using high voltage. I have seen that someone in the vicinity used electrified barbed wire. Not nice looking again.

 

I definitely want a loud siren, too. Obviously you enable that one manually from the phone. Very good idea. This would as well eliminate false siren alarms in the middle of the night for you would decide with your judgement to enable it or not. Is it enough to connect the Tapo to the router and then have some app on the phone ? I would be interested to know how you enable the siren exactly, for I might do the same. And to find a siren could not be too difficult I hope. Well given the necessary compatibility with the Tapo maybe yes.

 

No, I will not depend solely on surveillance. Soon we will have some neighbors nearby and maybe I can find an arrangement with them too that would benefit both of us.

 

[sometimewoodworker]

41 minutes ago, moogradod said:

But our house now has huge windows as well. They cannot be protected with steel bars unless our house would look like a prison.

That is why we have laminated glass IGUs that have 5 layers of PVB 2 X 4MM glass making the outer sheet with a 5mm inner. It certainly is no unbreakable but it is the same thickness as several diplomats use including the British ambassador in Laos so if it’s good enough for them it’s certainly OK for me 

[KhaoYai]

12 hours ago, moogradod said:

I definitely want a loud siren, too. Obviously you enable that one manually from the phone. Very good idea. This would as well eliminate false siren alarms in the middle of the night for you would decide with your judgement to enable it or not. Is it enough to connect the Tapo to the router and then have some app on the phone ? I would be interested to know how you enable the siren exactly, for I might do the same. And to find a siren could not be too difficult I hope. Well given the necessary compatibility with the Tapo maybe yes.

Re: Cloud - I didn't say it was necessary but if you don't use it you would need to put your DVR in a secure location.  If you rely on the hard drive or SD cards, you have to prevent the burglars from stealing them or your evidence will be gone.  My DVR is in a very secure location and would be difficult to find.  Obviously that means additional wiring but its worth it.

 

The steel transom bars that I've fitted to protect both balcony French windows is at waist height inside and cannot be seen from the outside as the doors themselves have a solid transom across them.  What they do is make it virtually impossible for the doors to be kicked in - any 'would be' intruder would make a lot of noise trying.

 

Windows?  My house is on stilts so everything is one floor up but a lot of people install security roller shutters to protect their windows - again though, you're virtually telling the burglars you're not home.

 

To answer the above:

 

I bought my siren on Ebay several years ago, I believe its actually for a car alarm.  Its 12v so needed a power supply. I had a 12v power supply - a charger for an old torch so I simply removed the plug from it (torch end) and joined the wires to my siren.  The power supply (plug end) plugs into a UK type 220-240v UK style wall socket via the Tapo internet switch (Tapo P100 Mini Smart Wifi Socket).  My house is wired with UK plugs so no problems there.  However, I only used the 12v siren because I had it already.  I'm sure you can find a 220/230 volt siren in Thailand with a Thai plug (maybe Lazada) so you wouldn't need a power supply - just a wall socket. If you can't find a 220/230v one - use a car alarm siren like mine.  The Tapo P100 is available in Thailand with a Thai plug and interestingly, they also do switchable light bulbs too. The App will run several devices.

 

https://www.tapo.com/th/

 

The Tapo connects to the wifi in my house - wirelessley and is very easy to set up. You simply download the App to your phone and then scan in a QR code on the smart plug. That's it done.  If I spot an intruder on my cameras I simply open the App and tap the button - see photo below.  It will work anywhere as long as I have either a mobile signal or wifi connection to my phone.  I don't know how many decibels my siren is but its very loud  - no burglar would want to be anywhere near my house when that's going off - and that's the point.  My cameras send me an alert, I view it and decide whether its an intruder or not. I've had 5 false alarms today - bloody Geckos!! My neighbours would not be happy bunnies if there had also been 5 siren blasts.

 

As for the security gates - see the photo below.  Those gates were made, painted and installed by a local tradesman for 20,000 baht.  The lockbox is a bit large - I plan to change that soon.  The problem with it is that its obvious that nobody's home if its fitted.  A better design would be a smaller box, welded to one door that closed over a hasp on the other door. I made some similar gates myself in the UK and had that type on them - much easier to use and the padlock can be fitted from the inside or outside so nobody can be sure if anyone's home or not.

 

There is a downside to all this surveillance and electrikery - if there is a power cut you've no cameras and no internet - you're battery powered cameras still need wifi to send you alerts. That's another reason for also making things as difficult as possible for any burglars and lighting them up via solar powered PIR sensor lights.

[sometimewoodworker]

2 hours ago, KhaoYai said:

As for the security gates - see the photo below.  Those gates were made, painted and installed by a local tradesman for 20,000 baht. 

My security gates are rather less visible and probably a little more secure, though only used when we are not at home for an extended period.

 

[moogradod]

23 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

That is why we have laminated glass IGUs that have 5 layers of PVB 2 X 4MM glass making the outer sheet with a 5mm inner. It certainly is no unbreakable but it is the same thickness as several diplomats use including the British ambassador in Laos so if it’s good enough for them it’s certainly OK for me 

I thank you for this very valuable advice. I am very much interested what product you exactly use.

 

Could you please tell me (post or PM) what the Brand Name is and if this info above is enough if I go to a glass shop (no idea where I could find this in Pattaya yet). And maybe any idea of how much it is per m2 ? And then the installation of course. Need probably the exchange of the whole wooden frame including the glass.

 

This sounds extremely good, so it is for sure expensive, but it seems worth it. Please tell me as much as I need to know to order the same for our windows. And thank you very much for that !!

 

We bought a house completely finished, but one by one we have to extend it, install various things like blinds, now the whole security issue, the aircons do not really cool as I want it, we discovered that my Stepdaughter is allergic to grass - had to exchange the whole lawn with artificial grass (which is in the end a phantastic move - no maintenance and it is very beautiful).

[moogradod]

11 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said:

My security gates are rather less visible and probably a little more secure, though only used when we are not at home for an extended period.

 

Phantastic. I will take up this advice, too. Thai doors - incredibly easy to open. A feast for any burglar ! We have a sophisticated electronic lock at the front door, but one crowbar and it is open in less than a minute.

[sometimewoodworker]

40 minutes ago, moogradod said:

I thank you for this very valuable advice. I am very much interested what product you exactly use.

The windows were supplied by PrimeAsia the glazing by TGSG but sourced through PrimeAsia.

 

40 minutes ago, moogradod said:

Need probably the exchange of the whole wooden frame including the glass.

Absolutely there is no point in having high security window glass if you can just kick the frame in.

40 minutes ago, moogradod said:

Please tell me as much as I need to know to order the same for our windows.

You will need to decide yourself. My choice was IGUs with 4mm plain, 5 x PVB, 4mm heat stop, 8mm argon, 5mm plain glass (the doors have tempered glass). The frames are PVC from Germany 

 

note we did not use green glass as I preferred clear

 

 

[moogradod]

10 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

The windows were supplied by PrimeAsia the glazing by TGSG but sourced through PrimeAsia.

 

Absolutely there is no point in having high security window glass if you can just kick the frame in.

You will need to decide yourself. My choice was IGUs with 4mm plain, 5 x PVB, 4mm heat stop, 8mm argon, 5mm plain glass (the doors have tempered glass). The frames are PVC from Germany 

 

note we did not use green glass as I preferred clear

 

 

Thank you very much. I will contact TGSG (I see the telephone number in your picture) and they will most probably be able to say who I have to contact at PrimeAsia (wherever or whoever that is). I will tell them the number of windows incl. m2 for each and ask for a quotation. But somehow they must organize the Inoutic profiles as well and the builder has to install this all - not to talk of the disassembly.

 

It is by chance that I have a friend here in our Condo Building who owns a company in Switzerland who makes "profiles" - maybe he can give further advice. This seems to be a rather complicated endeavor all in all, but I see you get as well heat protection. This all sounds very much desirable to me.

 

Thanks again.

[sometimewoodworker]

48 minutes ago, moogradod said:

Thank you very much. I will contact TGSG (I see the telephone number in your picture) and they will most probably be able to say who I have to contact at PrimeAsia (wherever or whoever that is). I will tell them the number of windows incl. m2 for each and ask for a quotation. But somehow they must organize the Inoutic profiles as well and the builder has to install this all - not to talk of the disassembly.

 

It is by chance that I have a friend here in our Condo Building who owns a company in Switzerland who makes "profiles" - maybe he can give further advice. This seems to be a rather complicated endeavor all in all, but I see you get as well heat protection. This all sounds very much desirable to me.

 

Thanks again.

You are going the wrong way around the situation.

1) decide the frame and exactly what glass you want.

2) get it measured by the install company.

3) get the overall price from the install company.

the price from the installation company will be different from a random bloke asking for the information 

 

PrimeAsia will organise everything for you

[moogradod]

On 5/31/2023 at 9:37 PM, sometimewoodworker said:

You are going the wrong way around the situation.

1) decide the frame and exactly what glass you want.

2) get it measured by the install company.

3) get the overall price from the install company.

the price from the installation company will be different from a random bloke asking for the information 

 

PrimeAsia will organise everything for you

 

I found PrimeAsia on the net and I will contact them as you propose. Thanks for the valuable guidance.

Choosing the frame and glass definitely can only be made if I know the price for different configurations. As I have not the slightest knowledge about security glass my only requirement is "burglar proof" and "heat protection" as a goody.

 

I will use your specs as a first guidance for them to issue a first quotation. I have roughly measured the size of the windows to enable a quotation. I just need a ball park figure.

 

But is it true that these windows are then at least 21 mm thick ? (4mm Plain + 4mm Heat Stop + 8mm Argon + 5mm Plain and on top 5XPVB although this might be quite thin). Two of the doors must be slideable, this makes it at least 42 mm thickness plus a portion of the frames. Hope this can be installed at all.

 

Sounds as well very very expensive. But I will try. Best security solution so far on top of the Surveillance Cameras I will install and the manually enabled siren (120dB) and this all adds to the value of the building tremendously. Not many home owners might have that. This then makes the doors the most vulnerable part (The main entrance and a backdoor).

 

Thank you again, you have really helped me a lot with your advice.

[sometimewoodworker]

5 hours ago, moogradod said:

As I have not the slightest knowledge about security glass my only requirement is "burglar proof" and "heat protection" as a goody.

No glass is burglar proof but 1.5mm of PVB will need a very determined burglar.

 

5 hours ago, moogradod said:

But is it true that these windows are then at least 21 mm thick ? (4mm Plain + 4mm Heat Stop + 8mm Argon + 5mm Plain and on top 5XPVB although this might be quite thin). Two of the doors must be slideable, this makes it at least 42 mm thickness plus a portion of the frames. Hope this can be installed at all.

That is correct, 4 of my windows have 3 tracks 2 sliding one fixed

5 hours ago, moogradod said:

Two of the doors must be slideable,

Absolutely insist on toughened glass on the unlaminated pane. The windows will have to be custom ordered as it is impossible to cut toughened glass.

Sliding doors are less secure than swinging doors as the locking mechanism can not be as robust.

 

5 hours ago, moogradod said:

Choosing the frame and glass definitely can only be made if I know the price for different configurations.

Glass will be a minor part of the cost. I can’t give you any idea as there are many different thicknesses, tints, heat reduction etc.

 

My criteria were security, sound reduction, heat reduction. If you want only 2 of these they can use thinner glass

[moogradod]

On 5/31/2023 at 6:33 AM, KhaoYai said:

...........................................................

The power supply (plug end) plugs into a UK type 220-240v UK style wall socket via the Tapo internet switch (Tapo P100 Mini Smart Wifi Socket).   The Tapo P100 is available in Thailand with a Thai plug and interestingly, they also do switchable light bulbs too. The App will run several devices.

 

https://www.tapo.com/th/

 

The Tapo connects to the wifi in my house - wirelessley and is very easy to set up. You simply download the App to your phone and then scan in a QR code on the smart plug. That's it done.

............................................................

Is this all that is required plus a TAPO app and of course a siren that plugs in the front of the tiny switch. Is this the correct product ? Thanks for your help - I will install a siren like you say.

 

[KhaoYai]

3 hours ago, moogradod said:

Is this all that is required plus a TAPO app and of course a siren that plugs in the front of the tiny switch. Is this the correct product ? Thanks for your help - I will install a siren like you say.

 

Yes, and of course, an internet connection.

[moogradod]

9 minutes ago, KhaoYai said:

Yes, and of course, an internet connection.

Thank you. I have already ordered everything incl. a Siren (should be something around 130dB) from Lazada. I operate a local network with 3 PCs and NAS, UPS etc. - just for fun and to display films and music in the home theatre, so the internet connection is no problem. I use AIS fiber.

 

I even ordered a set of 2 TAPO cameras which I will integrate. Unfortunately it seems that it is not extendable to 4 although an Aliexpress supplier said it is. I will just try. At least I can now have 2 cameras and the manually operated siren in one (Tapo) application. Thanks for all your advice.

[KhaoYai]

On 6/2/2023 at 11:06 AM, moogradod said:

I found PrimeAsia on the net and I will contact them as you propose. Thanks for the valuable guidance.

I used Prime Asia 5 years ago and was very happy with their work.  The profiles they fitted in my house were Deceuninck - glass sourced locally.  The company changed hands a couple of years ago so I can't comment on the quality of their work now.  However, when I needed a part for one of my doors they were very helpful.

 

All I would say is, and this applies to just about all UPVC doors: Do not trust the impressive looking 5 point locking systems - especially if you are installing double doors.  Add some form of extra security.  The problems come from the doors 'flexing'.  The locks work by small bolts that slide into U shaped keeps when the door handle is lifted. The level of 'sail' into the keeps is at best around 5mm.  In practice its actually around 3mm because of the heat in Thailand.  In a hot country the doors must be set with a bigger gap than you might think because they expand quite a lot in the sun.  If that allowance isn't made, the doors will catch on each other when hot.  The bigger the gap between the doors, the less the bolts 'sail' into the keeps.

 

I was amazed at how easy my doors were to kick in.  Following the break in, I repaired them and tested their security.  A heavy ram using my shoulders and they opened again.  The burglars didn't do it that way though. They simply inserted something like a screwdriver between the doors (damaging the cover lath) prised them apart and applied pressure.  As I say, the locking system looks great when its demonstrated in the showrooom but its actually not too difficult to defeat.  Hence the security cage in my earlier photo.

 

In the UK I've seen these 5 point locking systems fitted with mushroom shaped bolts that prevent the above problem.  However, I can see why mushroom shaped bolts won't work in Thailand - the doors would have to be set close to each other - any larger gap would not allow the 'mushrooms' to seat correctly.  I know this all sounds double dutch but if you visit a showroom, you will see what I mean. A 'shoot bolt' system that locks vertically as well as laterally would be far better.

 

However, most types of entrance doors have their problems and if you're going to be away for long periods, I would fit a cage like mine.  Always remember that a cage is only as good as its mountings so once its fitted, weld the bolt heads to the frame.  You would also be well advised to use mounting bolts that go right through to the inside with large flat washers or plates on the inside.  Its not much good having very secure security gates if they can simply be barred off the wall and concrete blocks are not really all that strong (especially the now popular lightweight blocks).  I'm in the process of making some covers for the bolt heads inside my house - they are ugly but justified.