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Posted
9 minutes ago, HauptmannUK said:

If you mean underbody protection then 3M products are available in Thailand. They do a flexible underbody wax (I think its 08882) and a light cavity wax (maybe 08853 ?).  Both should be available in 1L Schutz cans, if not then you'll have to use 500ml cans.  Pressure wash underneath and allow to dry thoroughly for a day or so.

Thanks for the info

Posted

Waxes are merely barriers. They only give short-term protection if underlying rust and occluded salt is not removed.

 

A thorough preparation consists of sanding all accessible areas, and treating with a phosphoric acid conversion coating in all areas. There are also tannic acid treatments available. However, IMO they are not as effective as phosphate conversion. After 24 hours, excess chemical is washed off with clean water, and allowed to dry. THEN apply any wax coating.

 

Unfortunately, rust never sleeps. Once salt has gained access to inaccessible areas such as crevices, what corrosion engineers call a differential oxidation cell is initiated, which is extremely difficult to reverse.

 

Sometimes, it is better to sell the car before crevice corrosion becomes evident, because it is occasionally a structural issue as well.

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Wire-brush away any loose rust.

You can use a soda blaster or dry-ice blasting to do this too if a large area or the complete underside of the car.

Wire brush surface powder rust to disturb and remove the bulk of the powder (you do't have to remove ever tiny bit of rust dust as this will convert to an inert form of iron and cannot rust again).

The point here is that with your following with metal primer, then flexible finish coat this converted material is sealed in and so you are creating a series of anti-rust layers as you add coatings.

 

Paint thoroughly with this 2 action rust converter (this 2 step converter acts as a primer too and does not require washing off with water as the old type of rust converters used to require.).

 

Then for sure-fire protection use a to quality spray auto-primer with quality auto anti-rust primer in it. Then apply final coat/s of flexible finish coat (plenty of these on the market).

All these can be bought in pressure cans, or in bulk and applied with a compressor and spray gun. 

 

If in doubt about products available in LOS contact a well respected auto body/paint shop (not the local fly-by-night shop but a really good high end shop) and ask for their recommendations on products.

If you can track down a company that supplies auto paint to the trade then this is the place to go to for all your needs.

 

I haven't ever done such work here, so I can't quote chapter and verse on particular products (a few brands of rust converters are easily gotten, even here) but I've done a few older Benz's in Australia when restoring and this process if followed and if you pay attention to all areas of the work process will perform perfectly for the rest of the life of the car.

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Amazing a Vios, as I thought they cant be broken down.

My wife has a Vios, 20 years old, nearly 300 k km.

There are some scratches on paint, some bumps, but rust, no.

That thing has been going everywhere and strong. However now she developed a weird sound but still going. Its a squeaking sound, it comes and goes, going up in speed but also down and when steady speed. I think it could be a bearing somewhere which now and then complains.

And i really cant tell where the sound comes from, wheels or engine.

 

There is not mentioned on what place the paint gives up. Every time the same place?!

Maybe replace that part if possible (good second hand to be found?) as it could be out of specs (when was build), but used and now bringing up problems?

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Should have been done when it was new. Now after 11 years it is like closing the barn door after the horse got out. To late. 

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