Looking for electric motor for this

[Kiniyeow]

I am looking for an 2HP 3 Phase 220v motor to connect to this inverter.  What do I need to look for in the motor specs to make sure it will work with it?

 

[Crossy]

The book of words for your drive should tell you what you need to know.

 

Could you post the make and model number please?

 

 

 

[impulse]

What are you planning to drive with the motor?

 

Also, the nominal speed of the motor (wound with 2 pole, 4 pole, etc.)  I know it's a speed inverter, but the approximate speed you want is a handy number to have...

 

Edited March 27 by impulse

[OneMoreFarang]

34 minutes ago, Crossy said:

Could you post the make and model number please?

 

From above picture:

[Kiniyeow]

The Motor that I currently have is this one, but it is only single phase.  I want to add speed control to my wood lathe.  It currently has just one speed, FAST.

[Crossy]

OK, manual here

20190919015909SKU792664.pdf

 

You need a motor that is 220V 3-wire. 

 

3-phase motors that are generally available here are 380V 3-wire unless you can find one that star-connected and can be re-wired for 220V 3-wire.

 

 

 

[Crossy]

Use your existing motor. You don't even need to remove the capacitor if you don't need reverse.

 

EDIT Do check that YOUR manual has this connection.

 

[Kiniyeow]

So I will have to remove the capacitor if I want the utilize the reverse function or I just wont be able to use it at all?

[brianthainess]

Industrial sewing machine motors, come with foot speed control pedal. 

[Crossy]

15 minutes ago, Kiniyeow said:

So I will have to remove the capacitor if I want the utilize the reverse function or I just wont be able to use it at all?

 

Wire it like the dotted line after removing the cap. and reverse should be available.

 

I'd test first without removing the cap to ensure you're good like that. So just motor L and N to W and V.

 

 

Motor should look like this inside, remove the cap and connect U to the aux winding.

 

If it goes the wrong way, swap V & W.

[Kiniyeow]

got it, thank you sir!

[Crossy]

Do let us know how you get on

 

Otherwise, someone will worry you've fried yourself.

[Kiniyeow]

Lol, ok, thanks again!

 

[degrub]

The woodworking lathes that i have experience with, have a set of stacked pulleys to change the rotational speed of the work rather than messing with the motor. Is that not true for this case ?

 

[Fruit Trader]

3 hours ago, Crossy said:

 

Wire it like the dotted line after removing the cap. and reverse should be available.

 

I'd test first without removing the cap to ensure you're good like that. So just motor L and N to W and V.

 

 

Motor should look like this inside, remove the cap and connect U to the aux winding.

 

If it goes the wrong way, swap V & W.

 

The OP might be confused when opening the motor because the spec plate mentions separate start run capacitors. There will be a switch facility somewhere on the motor. 

Not a problem trying a VFD on this motor but best he is aware of the increased complexity under the covers.

 

 

Option 1

 

 

 

 

Option 2

 

Edited March 27 by Fruit Trader

[sometimewoodworker]

3 hours ago, degrub said:

The woodworking lathes that i have experience with, have a set of stacked pulleys to change the rotational speed of the work rather than messing with the motor. Is that not true for this case ?

 

There are lathes that use graded pulleys, these tend to be the cheaper ones, but electronic/electrical controls have far greater control and are virtually infinitely variable. These are more commonly found on 3 phase motors and the setup is more compact and less complex.

[Kiniyeow]

The few wood lathes that you can get here in Thailand use the variable speed pully system.  (It's what I have now.)  Very similar to what is in all the automatic scooters transmission.  These types of lathes start out at about 500-600 RPM and then go up.  I want something that I can start from 0 and go up to what I need.  There are a lot of lathes from China that I could use, but I am not going to try and import one and be put into debt paying import and duty fees that I have no control over.  Once I get the inverter and a few other parts in I will connect it up to my existing lathe and let you all know how well it works.

[bluejets]

As the old saying goes, if you want a Ferrari, buy a Ferrari.

You might find yourself with torque problems with your requirements and expectations.

I cannot see any split phase motor working successfully on a 3 phase inverter regardless of how many say "I got one and it works".

There is simply too much difference in start run winding properties.

Edited March 28 by bluejets

[Kiniyeow]

These are the the only wires coming out of my current motor.  The one pictured above that has 2 capacitors.  The different connections are for rotation direction only.  Not sure how/if this can connect to the VFD (once it comes in).

 

[Crossy]

30 minutes ago, Kiniyeow said:

These are the the only wires coming out of my current motor.  The one pictured above that has 2 capacitors.  The different connections are for rotation direction only.  Not sure how/if this can connect to the VFD (once it comes in).

 

 

The capacitors will be inside the box on top of the motor.

 

Like noted earlier try it first with the "not remove capacitor" connection to ensure you really do get the range of speeds you want.

 

Then post photos of the inside of the box with the capacitors and we can sort out how to connect it.

[Fruit Trader]

2 hours ago, Kiniyeow said:

These are the the only wires coming out of my current motor.  The one pictured above that has 2 capacitors.  The different connections are for rotation direction only.  Not sure how/if this can connect to the VFD (once it comes in).

 

 

To try the VFD with capacitors in place, simply connect the existing motor supply terminals to V and U on the VFD leaving W not connected.

 

Trying without the capacitors will require you making a sketch of the motor circuit then wiring without capacitors and centrifugal switch. Even though U1 U2 Z1 Z2 are labelled in the terminal box, some motors wire the centrifugal switch back in the motor case and not at the terminal box so its important to trace and sketch the component connections. There will be a cover near or at the rear of the motor to locate the centrifugal switch. 

 

If you want to skip using your existing motor, 220V 1.1Kw three phase motors with 90L B3 frame are readily available. Having three balanced windings in the rotation really is the best and most efficient way to go. 

 

 

[Kiniyeow]

The motor is currently wired for clock wise rotation so Z1 U2 are paired and U1 and Z2 are paired with L and N connected to them.  The 2 capacitors wiring just goes down into the casing and not to any labeled block I can see.  If I can get this single phase motor to work the way I want then great, otherwise I'm gonna try and find a place here in town that sells motors to see what is available.  Hopefully a 220v 3 phase 2HP with an easy to get to connecting block if I an lucky.

[Crossy]

Post some photos of what you have please, clearly showing the wiring and we should be able to work it out.

 

I think you are going to struggle to find a 3-phase motor that is 220V phase-phase here, it's not a common configuration.

 

A 380V unit that's star ("Y") connected internally could be modified, again if you can find one.

[Kiniyeow]

Not sure how U1 Z1 and Z2 U2 correspond to W U and V, but his is all that hangs out of the motor I have.  There is no terminal strip of any kind that I can see unless it is inside the motor casing.

[Fruit Trader]

1 hour ago, Kiniyeow said:

Not sure how U1 Z1 and Z2 U2 correspond to W U and V, but his is all that hangs out of the motor I have.  There is no terminal strip of any kind that I can see unless it is inside the motor casing.

 

20 hours ago, Fruit Trader said:

To try the VFD with capacitors in place, simply connect the existing motor supply terminals to V and U on the VFD leaving W not connected.

 

Trying without the capacitors will require you making a sketch of the motor circuit then wiring without capacitors and centrifugal switch. Even though U1 U2 Z1 Z2 are labelled in the terminal box, some motors wire the centrifugal switch back in the motor case and not at the terminal box so its important to trace and sketch the component connections. There will be a cover near or at the rear of the motor to locate the centrifugal switch. 

 

If you want to skip using your existing motor, 220V 1.1Kw three phase motors with 90L B3 frame are readily available. Having three balanced windings in the rotation really is the best and most efficient way to go. 

 

[Fruit Trader]

According to our in house guru there are several variations of the Mitsubishi single phase motor with two capacitors. The video below should provide clues to how your version is wired. 

 

The Mitsubishi Super Line series have dual voltage (220/380) 3 phase variants in the same frame type which would be worth investigating if a change to 3 phase is preferred.

 

 

 

[Kiniyeow]

Well, I finally got the VFD in the mail and connected it up to the motor.  Thanks for all the help everyone!  Grounded power to L and N, Grounded motor to U and V.  good to go, thanks.