Who Knows This Temple ?

[boxig]

One of the most interesting temples in Chiang Mai (a bit out of town center) is Wat Ton Kwen, also known as Wat Intawat, located in Tambon Nong Kwai, Amphoe Hang Dong, Chiang Mai. Here is all what I know about it and I'll appreciate any additional info like date of construction.

One the last reamains of old Chiang Mai. I discovered this temple only in late 2004 and hope it will not be renovated as some other temples. Located on the south, isolated and not visited temple, almost deserted. From Chiang Mai town drive south on road No. 108 and turn right to road No. 1296 going to Samoeng. Pass road No. 121 and after a km or two (there is a sign saying 36 km to Samoeng) turn left to a small lane (there is a sign in Thai for the temple but not in English). Drive about 500 meters to reach the temple fence and turn right to the entrance. Wat Ton Kwen is known also as Wat Intawat, and it is located in Tambon Nong Kwai, Amphoe Hang Dong, Chiang Mai. This old temple, with its unique beauty, is the only one of its kind that remains in the north with beautiful old wooden Sala and surrounded by tall palm trees. Very recommended.

Thanks

Edited January 18, 2005 by boxig

[chanchao]

Thanks for that suggestion!! Will check it out soon, I live quite near to there. I think there's another old wooden temple in the Hang Dong area as well, I think it features in the book 'CHiang Mai - City, Valley, <something>' by Oliver Hargreave. (Go get that book today if you don't own it already)

Cheers,

Chanchao

[boxig]

Chanchao

Thanks. I hope you will enjoy it and find someone to open the doors for you. It really looks deserted. I also will appreciate any info about other old temples.

Thanks

boxig

[sabaijai]

My wife has relatives in Sanpatong and we often stop off at Wat Ton Kwen en route (using the old Sanpatong road, more scenic than the dual carriageway/Hang Dong Rd). I visited again last week in fact.

This temple has been restored or renovated several times and is currently in the care of the Fine Arts Dept. If you look closely at the naga entry you'll see where it has been patched, for example. Inside the original murals have been painted over, although one small 'window' has been cleared so that you can see the painting underneath. Very unique painting, not the usual Lanna style found at, eg, Wat Buak Khrok Luang or Wat Phumin, etc. Very vibrant colours, a shame it was covered.

The main Buddha in the vihara/wihaan is original and in Lanna/Thai Lu style, very nice. The wooden frame on the wall behind is much newer, and covers up the original Thai Lu style gilded floral patterns.

The front bargeboard is original but the other two, as is quite obvious by their uncarved state, are recent replacements. Portions of the original bargeboards (the two rear ones) are stored up in the rafters of the cloister behind the vihara.

The exterior woods that remain have been heavily treated by the DFA in an attempt to prevent further deterioration.

The surrounding cloisters have new cement floors in place of the original wood flooring, probably the most hamfisted aspect of the ongoing restoration.

I agree, though, a beautiful site. The sugar palms for which the temple is named (ton kwen is northern Thai for ton taan) lend atmosphere, nice place to picnic and tham bun.

There is a sign in Roman letters at the turnoff from the Samoeng road but it's a bad translit. I forget the exact (mis)spelling, something like Wat Than Kwan. Even with that sign it's a little tricky to find the first time.

[sabaijai]

By the way, there are many Lanna and Thai Lu style temples around the north of the same general design as Wat Ton Kwen. Each has its unique attributes of course.

Northern vihara of this type (similar mosaic-and-wood facades, for example, topped with naga bargeboards) can be found at: Wat Phra Thai Lampang Luang; Wat Lai Hin; Wat Buak Khrok Luang; Wat Bupparam (the smaller of the two vihara); Wat Nong Bua; Wat Nong Daeng; Wat Phra Sing; Wat Phan Tao ... these are just a few off the top of my head.

Wat Ton Kwen has no monks residing in the compound so that keeps it very simple and clean looking. Judging from the few folks I've encountered on my dozen or so visits, most of the people who come here are upper-class Thais interested in traditional art & architecture, arriving with cameras or sketchbooks rather than flowers and incense. I'm sure on Buddhist holidays it receives local villagers but I've never stopped by on a holiday. Sometimes there's no one there at all, so very peaceful ...

[boxig]

sabaijai,

That was very educational. After reading this I must go and visit this temple again. Do you know when it was built ? Can you please tell me how to get to Wat Lai Hin and Wat Nong Daeng ? I'm a bit crazy about Thai temples, especially the old. As for Wat Buak Khrok, is this the one in San Kampheng ? - it is really very beautiful temple with unique Nagas and Checi. I could not found any information about it.

Thank you

boxig

Edited January 23, 2005 by boxig

[sabaijai]

sabaijai,

That was very educational. After reading this I must go and visit this temple again. Do you know when it was built ?  Can you please tell me how to get to Wat Lai Hin and Wat Nong Daeng ? I'm a bit crazy about Thai temples, especially the old. As for Wat Buak Khrok, is this the one in San Kampheng ? - it is really very beautiful temple with unique Nagas and Checi. I could not found any information about it.

Thank you

boxig

Wat Ton Kwen (official name Wat Intharawat) may have been built in the 1500s but I've heard it was rebuilt around 1858.

There's also the similar Wat Hang Dong, referred to by Chanchao. About the same age as Wat Ton Kwen, but mostly unrenovated. It's about a km off the Hang Dong Rd, turnoff near Km 15, at the entrance of Ban Rung Arun.

Wat Buak Khrok Luang - Sankamphaeng district, Chiang Mai province (next to the Dhara Devi, just east of the San Dek intersection)

Wat Lai Hin - Ko Kha district, Lampang province, not far from more well known Wat Phra That Lampang Luang

Wat Nong Daeng - Chiang Klang district, Nan province. If you reach Chiang Klang, just ask around.

[boxig]

sabaijai

Thanks a lot for the input. I'm sure I'll visit them all except Wat Buak Khrok which I've seen already and it is really a unique temple.

boxig