gouda Posted June 17, 2009 Share Posted June 17, 2009 i bought 3 different toilets ( bowl and cistern ) 1 of them came with a 3" to 4" rubber gasket but the 2 others didnt so far have only been able to find wax seal available locally (central province outside bkk) does anyone know if no wax type seals are available in BKK? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lopburi3 Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 Normally seals are thrown away anyhow when toilet is installed. They have real cement/tile floors and use white cement here. And it seems to work fine. High line Cotto water saver that just installed came with plastic flange and wax type seals - but they were not used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xerostar Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 Don't install a toilet bowl without a seal ever ! The rubber type is best. Someone installed a toilet bowl in our place (when I was away). The bowl was placed directly on the tiles and cemented on. After a few weeks the bathroom started to stink. Brown lines started to appear in the tile grouting and around the edge of the bowl. You can imagine what that was! You can not get the bowl to adhere to shiny floor tiles using cement! So we had the bowl removed, and a new one fitted with a rubber ring and cemented direct to the concrete. A few points to consider: The concrete around the oulet should be chiselled out to get as large a surface area as possible for the cement to adhere to the concrete. The rubber ring is fitted over the outlet pipe. The bowl should be turned upside down and the void filled with wet cement. The chiselled out floor area is also filled with excess cement. The bowl is then inverted and pressed down, forcing the neck of the bowl through the rubber seal, squeezing out the excess cement. (If possible keep the neck clean so that cement does not get on the seal. Some silicone grease can be used to ease the fitting but don't use any oil-based lubricant) The bowl should be checked for level in both directions and square-on to the wall. The tiles need to be cut to fit around the bowl leaving a small gap for grout. Accuracy is needed for this job! Now it will look neat and the bathroom will not stink! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longball53098 Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Check out this toilet sealing system. I have seen this product at Boonthavan in Pattaya Toilet Seal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canuckamuck Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Old thread but relevant to me, where can I get wax seals in Chiang Mai? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRinger Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 (edited) Don't install a toilet bowl without a seal ever ! The rubber type is best. Someone installed a toilet bowl in our place (when I was away). The bowl was placed directly on the tiles and cemented on. After a few weeks the bathroom started to stink. Brown lines started to appear in the tile grouting and around the edge of the bowl. You can imagine what that was! You can not get the bowl to adhere to shiny floor tiles using cement! So we had the bowl removed, and a new one fitted with a rubber ring and cemented direct to the concrete. A few points to consider: The concrete around the oulet should be chiselled out to get as large a surface area as possible for the cement to adhere to the concrete. The rubber ring is fitted over the outlet pipe. The bowl should be turned upside down and the void filled with wet cement. The chiselled out floor area is also filled with excess cement. The bowl is then inverted and pressed down, forcing the neck of the bowl through the rubber seal, squeezing out the excess cement. (If possible keep the neck clean so that cement does not get on the seal. Some silicone grease can be used to ease the fitting but don't use any oil-based lubricant) The bowl should be checked for level in both directions and square-on to the wall. The tiles need to be cut to fit around the bowl leaving a small gap for grout. Accuracy is needed for this job! Now it will look neat and the bathroom will not stink! Although your advise may satisfy some, most of it is incorrect not to mention all the work involved; chiseling, mixing concrete, etc. Just cutting the tiles to fit nicely around the base will take hours and I doubt it will look very good either considering that good tile saws are almost non-existent. Most toilets have two holes on the bottom lip of the fixture where it meets the floor. These holes are not for filling with cement. They are for bolts that attach to a steel plate that's been fixed to the concrete (or wood) floor. The wax rings (or rubber cones) are necessary to make a seal and prevent unwanted leakage. The idea of cementing the toilet down prevents or makes it's difficult to make repairs later on and they can tip over. Most of the better toilets sold in Thailand come with the steel plate, bolts, wax rings or rubber cones. If your toilet doesn't have the steel plate, not a problem. drill a couple holes in the concrete and place lead anchors to attach the bolts from the top of the toilet rim. and instead of wasting a lot of time trying to cut the tiles perfectly around the base of the toilet, just cut the tiles around the steel base plate and mount the toilet on top, apply silicone sealer where the toilet meets the floor/tile and you'll have a very nice finish. and the installation picture in you post may be suitable for most, you may want to add a p-trap/s-strap under the floor to make sure the sewer or septic tank smells and deadly methane gas doesn't fill your nose, easy enough to make with pvc fittings. Edited August 8, 2011 by JRinger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
passingas Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 Prior to having a visiting friend bring me three real closet flanges from the US, with accompanying wax rings to properly set the toilets in our new house, I searched for something/anything they offered here to make the proper connection. Being a plumber in another lifetime, setting toilets in concrete just did not work for me. Cotto does not offer this, and those were the toilets we had already bought, but the building place where we bought lots of stuff, sold me three of these gasket type connectors that fits over the discharge outlet of the toilet itself and then into a 4" PVC waste line. They were from another manufacturer, and I can not recall who that was, but they do have them here. I was really surprized to find out about the availability of wax rings here. I could never find closet flanges here, let alone, those. Good luck. pg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lopburi3 Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Actually Cotto does offer them here as a standard part for installation of there C-1202 and C-12027 two piece toilet (as I have the unused package in front of me) as of about a year or two ago. It consists of template TP-WC024 with plastic floor flange and below and above rubber gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
passingas Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Actually Cotto does offer them here as a standard part for installation of there C-1202 and C-12027 two piece toilet (as I have the unused package in front of me) as of about a year or two ago. It consists of template TP-WC024 with plastic floor flange and below and above rubber gaskets. Good to hear. When we uncrated our toilets, there was nothing for the interface. I really like the two different models we choose. One has a partial flush mode for just the first flush and you have to hold it down for the full flush. Only found out by experimenting with it, as there was no info in the manual on this. pg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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