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Life In Pattaya


tommybkk

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Hello there,

I am thinking about moving back to Thailand.

Living in the Philippines now, and I do miss the healthy thai food and the lifestyle in the kingdom.

I stayed a little bit everywhere in Thailand except Pattaya, never been there.

What I would like to know is: is it really like the people say?

Except the gogo bars and clubs, is there also a normal nightlife that offers normal people with a normal mindset about making friends and having fun?

What about Jomtien? Restaurants, environnement?

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I live here full-time, and I like living in Jomtien. Most of my friends who live here only go into Pattaya whenever they need something they can't get in Jomtien. And that can mean a wide range of things, from groceries to special nightlife... It's definitely up to the individual. That's just how some people feel. Obviously, many farangs are happier living in Central, North or East Pattaya and that's what's right for them. Those are the areas they would most likely recommend, I suppose.

But, I recommend Jomtien. The general atmosphere in Jomtien is quite a bit less frantic than Pattaya city (although it also has its moments). To me, it offers a more livable, normal neighborhood where I can live near the beach with my girlfriend, socialize with my friends, meet lots of new people, and just try to get along and have a good life. I wish you the same... good luck!

:)

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Pattaya's a big town. There are tens of thousands of expats who are spending their golden days here, including many happily married old couples with zero interest in the nightlife. You don't have to become immersed in the sex scene if you don't want to. Jomtien offers a good compromise, as does Naklua/Wong Amat to the north. They're relatively quiet places with up-market accommodation and plenty of bars and restaurants. If they don't suit you, head out east of Sukhumvit (aka the Dark Side) where most of the expats live (60% according to Immigration reports). There are some nice villages there, far from the madding crowd, and with much cheaper accommodation than you will find in town. Or head down the coast to Bang Saray... or up the coast to Sri Racha...as I said, it's a big place. Until you come and scout it out you, won't know just how diverse a city it really is, or which bit will really suit you.

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I have lived and worked in pretty much most places in the world except South America, never got there. I now live in Jomtien and have never been happier.

Most of the places I have lived in since my youth have been what you might call dodgy legally. When a cop stops me on a made up charge and it costs me 100 baht to solve the problem I think back to the massive fines for speeding in UK plus the 300%+ insurance cost bump that followed, and I pay up with a smile. I have come to like the ‘it can be sorted out’ mentality of such places and could now never live in the we will find a reason to screw you West.

So choosing (lets face it) the Third World where do you live? My heart will always be in Africa but to live there (and not be killed) you need to be very rich. You need the big house, the guards, the dogs and even then you live in an atmosphere of fear. Spent many years in Nigeria where you can almost taste the violence in the air. Loved the buzz of it when younger but too old for that nonsense now.

So Thailand for me offers the compromise of a certain amount but not too much lawlessness and the abilitlity to wander around drunk late at night and be perfectly safe as long as you’re not too stupid. Card with address in Thai in left rear pocket, 1,000 baht in an inner pocket and you’ll get out of 99% of situation that go bad.

So where in Thailand? Some see Pattaya as a western ghetto and prefer the ‘real’ Thailand. Well the ‘real’ Thailand usually means cold showers tin huts and crap food. Too real for me. Pattaya offers a blend of Thailand and the West and you can stay in one of the other or move between the two. Walking Street is there if you want it but easily avoided if you don’t. Soi Boukaw is there if you really must have a fry up but the 100 baht carts are there if you don’t. And do not dismiss those carts everything is fresh that day and cooked in front of you.

There is a huge social mix here from rich white yachties to potless pensioners and all stops in between. You can mix exclusively with farangs, Thais or a mix. No one seems to judge here.

And finally and in some ways most importantly you are within a 10 minute drive of a world class medical facility. Thus was brought home to me in a way I will never forget. Up country Kenya a woman I knew was thrown from a horse and broke her back. She had to be transported in a Land Rover over rutted tracks at about 5 miles an hour to a hospital and it took 6 hours. We had morphine but not that much and when we get to the hospital it was a shed. She would have been crippled if she hadn’t died of septicaemia. Always have a plan for a medical emergency.

So Pattaya for me offers a unique blend of the Third World and the First. I have faith the Thais will screw it all up eventually but for now its ideal for me.

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Sounds good, thanks for the nice reply.

Well I am here in the Philippines and it's a great mix of both but the problem is that poverty rules everything here.

Feel sad when I see tons of children on the street begging for money, but that's a problem that should be taken care of and not to be overruled like this.

What about housing? Condominiums or moo bans? Any good ones with plenty of faluangs?

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So Thailand for me offers the compromise of a certain amount but not too much lawlessness and the abilitlity to wander around drunk late at night and be perfectly safe as long as you're not too stupid. Card with address in Thai in left rear pocket, 1,000 baht in an inner pocket and you'll get out of 99% of situation that go bad.

So where in Thailand? Some see Pattaya as a western ghetto and prefer the 'real' Thailand. Well the 'real' Thailand usually means cold showers tin huts and crap food. Too real for me. Pattaya offers a blend of Thailand and the West and you can stay in one of the other or move between the two. Walking Street is there if you want it but easily avoided if you don't. Soi Boukaw is there if you really must have a fry up but the 100 baht carts are there if you don't. And do not dismiss those carts everything is fresh that day and cooked in front of you.

There is a huge social mix here from rich white yachties to potless pensioners and all stops in between. You can mix exclusively with farangs, Thais or a mix. No one seems to judge here.

And finally and in some ways most importantly you are within a 10 minute drive of a world class medical facility. Thus was brought home to me in a way I will never forget. Up country Kenya a woman I knew was thrown from a horse and broke her back. She had to be transported in a Land Rover over rutted tracks at about 5 miles an hour to a hospital and it took 6 hours. We had morphine but not that much and when we get to the hospital it was a shed. She would have been crippled if she hadn't died of septicaemia. Always have a plan for a medical emergency.

So Pattaya for me offers a unique blend of the Third World and the First. I have faith the Thais will screw it all up eventually but for now its ideal for me.

excellent post! :)

Edited by Ulysses G.
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I have lived and worked in pretty much most places in the world except South America, never got there. I now live in Jomtien and have never been happier.

Most of the places I have lived in since my youth have been what you might call dodgy legally. When a cop stops me on a made up charge and it costs me 100 baht to solve the problem I think back to the massive fines for speeding in UK plus the 300%+ insurance cost bump that followed, and I pay up with a smile. I have come to like the 'it can be sorted out' mentality of such places and could now never live in the we will find a reason to screw you West.

So choosing (lets face it) the Third World where do you live? My heart will always be in Africa but to live there (and not be killed) you need to be very rich. You need the big house, the guards, the dogs and even then you live in an atmosphere of fear. Spent many years in Nigeria where you can almost taste the violence in the air. Loved the buzz of it when younger but too old for that nonsense now.

So Thailand for me offers the compromise of a certain amount but not too much lawlessness and the abilitlity to wander around drunk late at night and be perfectly safe as long as you're not too stupid. Card with address in Thai in left rear pocket, 1,000 baht in an inner pocket and you'll get out of 99% of situation that go bad.

So where in Thailand? Some see Pattaya as a western ghetto and prefer the 'real' Thailand. Well the 'real' Thailand usually means cold showers tin huts and crap food. Too real for me. Pattaya offers a blend of Thailand and the West and you can stay in one of the other or move between the two. Walking Street is there if you want it but easily avoided if you don't. Soi Boukaw is there if you really must have a fry up but the 100 baht carts are there if you don't. And do not dismiss those carts everything is fresh that day and cooked in front of you.

There is a huge social mix here from rich white yachties to potless pensioners and all stops in between. You can mix exclusively with farangs, Thais or a mix. No one seems to judge here.

And finally and in some ways most importantly you are within a 10 minute drive of a world class medical facility. Thus was brought home to me in a way I will never forget. Up country Kenya a woman I knew was thrown from a horse and broke her back. She had to be transported in a Land Rover over rutted tracks at about 5 miles an hour to a hospital and it took 6 hours. We had morphine but not that much and when we get to the hospital it was a shed. She would have been crippled if she hadn't died of septicaemia. Always have a plan for a medical emergency.

So Pattaya for me offers a unique blend of the Third World and the First. I have faith the Thais will screw it all up eventually but for now its ideal for me.

Excellent post, couldnt have put it better...

Pattaya is really all things to all people. Most of the people who moan on here about sleaze, drunkenness and loutish behaviour in Pattaya are tourists who see Pattaya as the baht-bus circuit only.

There really is no need to go anywhere such as Walking Street. I stopped going there when they got rid of the excellent rock band in the Hot Tuna bar.

Take a look at Pattaya on Google Earth. Its just huge. When I first came here 22 years ago I knew the whole town, but these days there are whole areas I have never been to but am keen to explore. Quiet backwaters which are as close to the "Real Thailand" as I wish to get.

I would echo the point about healthcare. Never mind Africa, I have had a family member die from picking up an infection in a dirty UK hospital. If I am going to be ill, I want to be in one of the Pattaya (or BKK) private hospitals thank you.

I find the so-called scams in Thailand an irrelevance because the amounts involved are so small compared to the legalized scamming which goes on in the UK where, for example you can be fined for putting out your bins on the wrong day.

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I lived in Pattaya (well, the Darkside) for nearly four years, but moved out to the 'real Thailand' (whatever that is) about six months ago. So I suppose I should fall into line and bash Pattaya.

Not so I'm afraid. Pattaya is a great place- it has a large and diverse expat community, with all of the diversity and choice that entails. The stereotypes about the Pattaya lifestyle and the farangs there are about as useless as the stereotypes about farangs living in Isaan- suffice to say you will meet people there that do fit the 'sexpat' stereotype, and you will meet the diametric opposites too, it all depends on where and who you hang out with. Up to you. Take it for what it is- a somewhat tacked together transient community- hardly anyone you meet is actually 'from' Pattaya, but many people like it that way. For me, it was a great 'user friendly' introduction to living in Thailand- a lot of people do the same as me actually, spend a few years there then move upcountry to the elusive real Thailand. But I certainly wouldn't rule out moving back one day either, in my more senior years.

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For Tarquin.

Know what you mean about Nigeria. I am currently working in Abuja (very safe) but was previously in Lagos (Oh my God ! )

Money here is too good though so I will stick it out for a bit, bank the money and enjoy my breaks at our Condo in Pats.

Married to a Thai and also have a home in Pak Chong..........but even the missus gets bored up there.

We love Pattaya and have met lots of freinds there........so diverse and can anyone really get bored ?

Edited by Phatcharanan
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I lived in Pattaya (well, the Darkside) for nearly four years, but moved out to the 'real Thailand' (whatever that is) about six months ago. So I suppose I should fall into line and bash Pattaya.

Not so I'm afraid. Pattaya is a great place- it has a large and diverse expat community, with all of the diversity and choice that entails. The stereotypes about the Pattaya lifestyle and the farangs there are about as useless as the stereotypes about farangs living in Isaan- suffice to say you will meet people there that do fit the 'sexpat' stereotype, and you will meet the diametric opposites too, it all depends on where and who you hang out with. Up to you. Take it for what it is- a somewhat tacked together transient community- hardly anyone you meet is actually 'from' Pattaya, but many people like it that way. For me, it was a great 'user friendly' introduction to living in Thailand- a lot of people do the same as me actually, spend a few years there then move upcountry to the elusive real Thailand. But I certainly wouldn't rule out moving back one day either, in my more senior years.

I agree, though with some extra time in the boonies under my belt, I see even less reason to bash Pattaya. In fact, I'd bash the boonies first.

Your explanation of the westerners (I will not use the F word) as "a somewhat tacked together transient community" is very accurate. Whilst in Pattaya you can find enough of your "type" of people to make friends with, up country you find yourself with fewer options and by a mixture of coincidence and necessity, you find yourself in a more eclectic mix than you would perhaps otherwise experience.

From my experience, where you go is critical. You need to know yourself very well and be totally honest about what you need and what you can put up with. Living in a village where no-one speaks your language above a few childish sentences and where meeting people to socialise with is a 20km drive away with no public transport is not everyone's cup of tea. I think most people fall down on their research of their proposed home town more than anything.

I know that after living up country, I need a certain size of town and in all honesty, I am probably better in Pattaya or another western ghetto than a provincial town. I am used to living in capital cities and the suburbs are not really my thing, at least on a permanent basis.

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I lived in Bangkok for a number of years. I had explored the country and settled on Jomtien for retirement. I still have a condo there. After a number of visits to my wife's home in the boonies of Loei province, I decided that I liked the boonies. We have been up here for over five years.

Everywhere I have lived in Thailand has good and bad points. As long as my wife puts up with me, I'm quite content up here. If something would happen to her or our relationship, I'd be headed back to the farang ghettos.

There are arguments for and against places to live. It's a good thing we all have different preferences and don't all like the same places.

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Tarqin put it so well.

Pattaya gives true meaning to the expression "life's rich tapestry."

There is a learning curve but if you remember that it is real and most of the sensible rules of engagement apply, you'll soon find Pattaya getting under your skin.

I hope you do decide to come to Pattaya and I look forward to reading your thoughts when you do.

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Thank you for your reply's.

I am currently in the Philippines where the western way of thinking the people posses is very pleasant after spending a long time in Thailand and China.

People all speak very good english and the romanized characters are a good thing for learning the local language.

Luxurious shoppingmalls surrounded by slums.

Homeless people sleeping on the street, living in what I call wooden boxes, having sex and giving birth to their baby's on the streets.

Kids begging for money, pulling your arm and following you untill you get angry.

While eating on a terrace in the main city centre some woman who doesn't want to work because she is too lazy and probably never knew someone who did, will surely stare at you and scream to you to give her money, this is for her to eat also.

Well honestly, I miss Thailand. Tuk tuk's, tailors and ladyboys included.

Edited by tommybkk
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Sounds all very positive for Jomtien/Pattaya so let's continue the converation.

Wich condo buildings are the most interesting for renting a place, where I can make a deal downstairs at the lobby.

I like the buildings who have at least a swimmingpool & gym, surrounded by restaurants in the neighbourhood for easy acces when feeling hungry.

Also I want the area to be a clean one, street dogs are not a big problem but I just want to feel proud of the neighbourhood I live in.

Also I want there to be enough expats in the area, old, young, gay, straight, black, white... But I do have a little problem with the cheap charlie sexpats that would hang around my building.

Edited by tommybkk
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I came to Thailand last January and work alternate months in the O&G industry. Spent the first month in Pattaya with it's noise and traffic. Rented a motor bike and searched the local area's. I chose Jomtien because it is quieter and you can lead a more relaxed type of life-style. Then aagain, if you want the action you can go into Pattaya for 10 baht on the baht bus. I am in Jomtien Beach Condo just off Beach Road about half way down. There is a good mixture of expats of all nationalities. On site there are two swimming pools and a gym. There are plenty of places for rent or sale. Security is excellent. On the site there are plenty of bar, restaurants, washin ladies, internet cafe's, etc. As soon as you walk out the complex you are in Beach Road with all it has to offer.

If you come to Jomtien it could be worth renting a place similar to mine. Mix with the locals. They are a friendly bunch and see if it is to your taste. Hope your search goes well and you find what you arelooking for.

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Sounds all very positive for Jomtien/Pattaya so let's continue the converation.

Wich condo buildings are the most interesting for renting a place, where I can make a deal downstairs at the lobby.

I like the buildings who have at least a swimmingpool & gym, surrounded by restaurants in the neighbourhood for easy acces when feeling hungry.

Also I want the area to be a clean one, street dogs are not a big problem but I just want to feel proud of the neighbourhood I live in.

Also I want there to be enough expats in the area, old, young, gay, straight, black, white... But I do have a little problem with the cheap charlie sexpats that would hang around my building.

I would first just go over on an extended stay, and then identify areas where you'd want to live. You really can't do this without actually being there and sensing the vibe in various areas.

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I am in Jomtien Beach Condo just off Beach Road about half way down.

I am wondering what difference to Jomtien the new Jomtien 2 road will make. It will definitely make a difference to Jomtien Beach Condo as it slices the development in half.

I do fear a 6 lane road through Jomtien can only be negative.

Edited by andyww
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