5 Amp Supply

[offset]

On my new house build I am having trouble getting an electric supply fitted it seems like the electric company keeps delaying the installation I have asked for a 30 amp supply but they seem to think that is to much so I am not sure they have the capacity I can get a temporary 5 amp supply that the next doors water pump uses would this be OK to use to test everything in the house to clear the builder I have 3 air con units and various water heaters but if they were tried one at a time I am hoping 5 amp will be OK and if I had to would I be able to live in the house for a short time till they gave me a supply

[lopburi3]

You can use to test out as it will handle much more than the 5 amps rating. I suspect you should be asking for 15 amp service rather than 30 amp. I have 5 air conditioners, 5 refrigerators, 5 water heaters in a 10 person home and the normal 15/45 amp meter service has been fine.

[katabeachbum]

You can use to test out as it will handle much more than the 5 amps rating. I suspect you should be asking for 15 amp service rather than 30 amp. I have 5 air conditioners, 5 refrigerators, 5 water heaters in a 10 person home and the normal 15/45 amp meter service has been fine.

when you ask for 30 amp, electric company usually think you want 30/100 Amp (samsip roy amp). you should be covered well enough with 15/45 amp, which they usually grant more easily and its less expensive to have installed

Edit. apply for sipha (15)amp, and what you get is 15/45 Amp which works ok with 63 Amp main breaker

Edited February 17, 2010 by katabeachbum

[InterestedObserver]

The OP may not be familiar with the way Thailand uses kWh meters. A 15 amp meter (15/45) is normally expected to carry up to 45 amps or more without anybody getting excited. The main will have a 63 amp breaker installed.

[Crossy]

Yeah ^^^ a 5/15 will be fused at 25A (maybe 30A) and will be fine for testing as long as you don't try running all your aircon and a 10kW water heater.

Most domestic supplies are 15/45 and fused at 63A, more than enough for most people

[offset]

Talked to electric company today to change to a 15 amp supply and was told it was not big enough for the house and we have to wait at least 7 days to be connected so we are going to use the sisters supply 2 doors away for now because I can see the power people taking a few weeks we have already waited 2 weeks

[Crossy]

Talked to electric company today to change to a 15 amp supply and was told it was not big enough for the house and we have to wait at least 7 days to be connected so we are going to use the sisters supply 2 doors away for now because I can see the power people taking a few weeks we have already waited 2 weeks

Hmmmm, 30Amp is too big, 15Amps is too small, since they don't do a supply in between what are they proposing?

I strongly suspect a little tea-money is required to lubricate the wheels, not something I really advocate, but if it works

Did you not have a 'construction supply' whilst building your castle??

[tutsiwarrior]

quote

Yeah ^^^ a 5/15 will be fused at 25A (maybe 30A) and will be fine for testing as long as you don't try running all your aircon and a 10kW water heater.

Most domestic supplies are 15/45 and fused at 63A, more than enough for most people

unquote

with a 15/45 supply what would normally be the main breaker rating on the consumer box? My new Safe-T-Cut box sez 50A.

[tutsiwarrior]

^^just looked in our other 2 adjoining shop houses and one main breaker is 45A and the other is 63A...3 adjoining shop houses with 3 different main breaker ratings but presumably with only 2 available incoming supply arrangements and the house with the biggest load ( 2 ton A/C, 2 fridges, washing machine) has the new Safe-T-Cut box @ 50A...

Edited February 19, 2010 by tutsiwarrior

[Crossy]

Tutsi, they've probably just installed what was in the van

Provided it's not dropping out on overcurrent I'd leave alone, it's certainly fine on a 15/45

[tutsiwarrior]

Tutsi, they've probably just installed what was in the van

Provided it's not dropping out on overcurrent I'd leave alone, it's certainly fine on a 15/45

cheers, mate...no problems so far after installing the Safe -T-Cut box @ 50A with all appliances in operation...

bought the box outta the back of a pick up cruising the 'hood with a loudspeaker an' neglected to look at the main breaker rating (there were scantily clad Safe-T-Cut hostesses serving refreshments) ...plus the A/C has it's own breaker external to the box, I forgot to add...

[BlackGrape]

Maybe in Thailand they calculate diversity differfent from us. 15A? At he most I have 4 bedrooms and 2 kitchens, no way it is more than 3,000 baht a month. 15A a phase!!

Crossy, you know!

[bankruatsteve]

Where are you all getting the information about service ampacity in Thailand? I don't understand 15/45 amp service? How can it be both?

Is there a different cost for billing units based on meter size?

I went to the local electric office and was told I should get a 30a meter if I want 2 or more A/C units (which seems reasonable to me since I can easily see drawing over 20a with everything turned on). So, was that BS?

And I certainly hope nobody is fusing anything higher than the ampacity of the wire in use no matter what the capacity.

Thanks.

[elkangorito]

For those who don't understand, "ampacity" is slang for "current carrying capacity".

[katabeachbum]

Where are you all getting the information about service ampacity in Thailand? I don't understand 15/45 amp service? How can it be both?

Is there a different cost for billing units based on meter size?

I went to the local electric office and was told I should get a 30a meter if I want 2 or more A/C units (which seems reasonable to me since I can easily see drawing over 20a with everything turned on). So, was that BS?

And I certainly hope nobody is fusing anything higher than the ampacity of the wire in use no matter what the capacity.

Thanks.

Different price for installing different size of meters, 5/15 like 800 baht, 15/45 like 7k baht, 30/100 like 12k baht, perhaps not correct prices been a couple of years since last time. They are supposed to check your cables, mainbreaker and installtion before installing meter.

Price pr unit consumed does not depend on meter size, but price increases pr unit with increased units pr month.

If you want to draw 20-30 amp, I d go for 15/45 amp meter

[bankruatsteve]

Where are you all getting the information about service ampacity in Thailand? I don't understand 15/45 amp service? How can it be both?

Is there a different cost for billing units based on meter size?

I went to the local electric office and was told I should get a 30a meter if I want 2 or more A/C units (which seems reasonable to me since I can easily see drawing over 20a with everything turned on). So, was that BS?

And I certainly hope nobody is fusing anything higher than the ampacity of the wire in use no matter what the capacity.

Thanks.

Different price for installing different size of meters, 5/15 like 800 baht, 15/45 like 7k baht, 30/100 like 12k baht, perhaps not correct prices been a couple of years since last time. They are supposed to check your cables, mainbreaker and installtion before installing meter.

Price pr unit consumed does not depend on meter size, but price increases pr unit with increased units pr month.

If you want to draw 20-30 amp, I d go for 15/45 amp meter

Thanks for that. But, what exactly is 15/45 amp service? If it's 45a, then what does 15 represent?

[david96]

The 15A is the rating that will give the revs per KWh on the name plate. A meter is tested at this current.

Tha 45A is the normal continuous current in amps that will not affect the accuracy of the meter.

This current coil will withstand currents much higher than this. Electricity meters are very rugged and reliable

devices.

[katabeachbum]

The 15A is the rating that will give the revs per KWh on the name plate. A meter is tested at this current.

Tha 45A is the normal continuous current in amps that will not affect the accuracy of the meter.

This current coil will withstand currents much higher than this. Electricity meters are very rugged and reliable

devices.

yes, but if you have a 8 mm2 alu cable they accept 15/45 meter. but cable should not handle more than 45 amp, so they usually require MCB max 45 amp.

[powderpuff]

To the OP.

<deleted>? The electricity company is telling you 5 amp is fine.

Demand they come out & survey your house.

I suspect they are going to need to add a transformer before hooking you up.

15/45 is pushing it (bog standard on new construction) but if you ask for 30/100 like I have for peace of mind & possible upgrades.

You are the customer. You tell them what you need - not the other way around.

btw - I assumed that 15/45 meant that it could handle 15 amp continuous & 45 amp spike. Could be wrong.

[InterestedObserver]

btw - I assumed that 15/45 meant that it could handle 15 amp continuous & 45 amp spike. Could be wrong.

Learned posters on this forum tend to equate the 45 amps with a continuous rating. Why the manufacturer even bothers with the 15 amp rating is beyond me.

[elkangorito]

The 15 amps is called the "basic" current (Ib).

It sounds like the KWH meter could be one of the two below:

DD283 - 300% overload capacity (15 x 3 = 45).

DD284 - 300% overload capacity (15 x 3 = 45).

I got this info from the specifications of the only two 15/45 meters available.

[katabeachbum]

To the OP.

<deleted>? The electricity company is telling you 5 amp is fine.

Demand they come out & survey your house.

I suspect they are going to need to add a transformer before hooking you up.

15/45 is pushing it (bog standard on new construction) but if you ask for 30/100 like I have for peace of mind & possible upgrades.

You are the customer. You tell them what you need - not the other way around.

btw - I assumed that 15/45 meant that it could handle 15 amp continuous & 45 amp spike. Could be wrong.

several townhouse projects are dimensioned for 5/15 amp only. sometimes possible to push to 15/45 for some units. 220 volt and transformer pushed to limit. even if you are the customer, asking for, or demanding, 30/100 amp gives you no power at all. 5/15 is what the developer has calculated, applied for and had approval for. if more is needed, pay the price before building.

[david96]

btw - I assumed that 15/45 meant that it could handle 15 amp continuous & 45 amp spike. Could be wrong.

Learned posters on this forum tend to equate the 45 amps with a continuous rating. Why the manufacturer even bothers with the 15 amp rating is beyond me.

That first rating is the current that the meter is tested at for accuracy, the last figure is the continuous current that the meter will accept without affecting its accuracy, You are correct it is this last figure 45A is what you require as you want it to be equal or less than the maximum demand.

[InterestedObserver]

The meter calibration current and revolutions per unit of energy have no meaning to the typical home owner, hence for all practical purposes it is a 45 amp kWh meter. Plain and simple.

Edited February 23, 2010 by InterestedObserver