In House Electrics, Where Do I Go From Here?

[eraymos]

I have come to the point where I am going to put in electrical wiring, consumer unit, circuit breakers and all the stuff that will keep me and the family safe. I have read threads on this website and other thai/farrang websites. It seems the more I read the less I understand!

I hope that maybe Crossy, Elkangorito and any other knowledgeable people can help me. I understand the need for elctrical conduit,

3 wires (R, B, G) and grounding rod.

As I hope you can see I put in conduit that will run into the attic, where everything will run into junction boxes and more conduit befor it comes down to a consumer unit. I understand about the different cable sizes depending on what size amp circuit breaker, but after that it starts to get scairy.

Here is what me and the wife are thinking:

Lights 19 (13 regular and 6 drop lights inside) 12 (outside) (1 or 2 circuits for inside lighting? what size CB?)

Sockets 30 (inside) 5 (outside) (3 circuits for inside? 20amp?)

A/C 1

Hot water tank (100 L) 1

Washing machine 1 H/W tank and washing machine in the same room (1circuit? 2circuits?)

Stove and exhaust fan 1

Dishwasher 1

Fridge 1 (Can I put the dishwasher and fridge on 1 circuit?)

I understand that consumer units ave a main elcb, should any or all have dedicated elcb? What size circuit breakers should I use and how many????

ANY AND ALL COMMENTS WILL BE GRATEFULLY APPRECIATED, AND THANK YOU FOR HELPING TO SAVE THE LIVES OF ME AND MY FAMILY

[bankruatsteve]

Until the experts respond, I can help a little...

All hot water things should have their own circuit. Probably 10a should do, but all you have to do is look at the watt rating of the device and divide by 220 - that's the max amps you should need to handle.

You should not need more than 5a for the lighting circuits and probably don't need more than 2-3 for inside - the outside should be separate.

You want 10a and at least 2 circuits for the kitchen area and the RCBO protection. Also 10a is plenty for your other socket areas. Again estimate total wattage for an area and divide them up as needed. My guess is you shouldn't need more than 3 or 4 circuits for those.

The exhaust fan and stove together is probably OK but better to separate the fan - put it on one of the other kitchen circuits.

Dishwasher?? Yeah probably OK same as fridge but if you have plenty of slots, separate is better.

And keep ceiling fans on separate circuits if you can- they can be on same circuit as other lighting.

That's my input.

Cheers.

[eraymos]

Until the experts respond, I can help a little...

All hot water things should have their own circuit. Probably 10a should do, but all you have to do is look at the watt rating of the device and divide by 220 - that's the max amps you should need to handle.

You should not need more than 5a for the lighting circuits and probably don't need more than 2-3 for inside - the outside should be separate.

You want 10a and at least 2 circuits for the kitchen area and the RCBO protection. Also 10a is plenty for your other socket areas. Again estimate total wattage for an area and divide them up as needed. My guess is you shouldn't need more than 3 or 4 circuits for those.

The exhaust fan and stove together is probably OK but better to separate the fan - put it on one of the other kitchen circuits.

Dishwasher?? Yeah probably OK same as fridge but if you have plenty of slots, separate is better.

And keep ceiling fans on separate circuits if you can- they can be on same circuit as other lighting.

That's my input.

Cheers.

About the amps: That is what I thought, watts divided by volts. It's just that it sounds to easy .

As to how many slots on the consumer unit. I am waiting to hear from people smarter than me to help me find out how large of a unit I need. I' m thinking Square D 16. This should hopefully give me a few spare slots for future use. Any sugestions ?Another question then is should it be split?

Thanks for your input

[longball53098]

Until the experts answer this question here is a link to get you started. Read and try to absorb all the info here and then come back to this topic with more questions. 99% of the questions you ask in the OP are answered in this link.

Crossy's wiring link

[david96]

One has used AS3000 as the basis. Use as a guide only.

Main Switch 63A, May be a MCB.

Lighting and Fans 2 x 10A, 1.0sqmm.

Power. 3 x 20A, 2.5sqmm.

HWS. 1 x 20A, 2.5sqmm.

Stove. 1 x 32A, 4.0sqmm.

RCDs on all final subcircuits.

Double pole switches and MCBs.

Main earth, 4sqmm minimum,

Main earth electrode 12.7mm copper clad steel depth 1.2M in ground.

Earthing is required for stove and HWS.

Use 3 pin socket outlets.

All PE earths to run to the Main Switch Board earth bar.

Colour codes for Thailand are Black for phase or active conductor.

White or Grey for neutral conductor.

Green ( or green/yellow) for an earthing conductor.

Check with the PEA/MEA for energy metering requirements

Earthing in Thailand is TT not MEN.

Testing must be carried out before connection to supply.

[Crossy]

Double pole switches and MCBs.

Earthing in Thailand is TT not MEN.

Testing must be carried out before connection to supply.

It would be most unusual to find double-pole MCBs in use in Thailand even though safer.

Earthing is SUPPOSED to be MEN / PME, Elkangorito has found many installations actually IT. Safest to assume your area is TT until confirmed otherwise.

Testing? I don't think I've seen a Thai domestic sparks with proper tools, let alone even a DMM

[eraymos]

Crossy, if as you say one can not find double-poll MCBs, then what should I use and will my Thai electrican understand this? Should I just buy a finished consumer uint with a 63A mainbreaker with ELCB and the MCBs that David recommends and hope for the best?

[Crossy]

Crossy, if as you say one can not find double-poll MCBs, then what should I use and will my Thai electrican understand this? Should I just buy a finished consumer uint with a 63A mainbreaker with ELCB and the MCBs that David recommends and hope for the best?

Never just hope for the best

Have a look on my website http://www.crossy.co.uk/wiring/index.html for all sorts of useful information. Certainly David is (as usual) in the right ball park. I would map out all your outlet and lighting locations and then zone them on individual MCBs.

You may wish to use RCBOs rather than MCBs, these would remove the requirement for a separate RCD (Safe-T-Cut) as they provide earth-leakage protection themselves, they are however rather more expensive.

Whichever way you go, run the fridge and freezer from a non-RCD radial (look at my drawing of a split-service CU), you don't want to come home after a week away to find the freezer tripped out

A Thai sparks will certainly understand single pole MCBs, he's less likely to know how to wire a double pole one or for that matter an RCBO.

[david96]

Double pole (2 pole) MCBs are readily available in Thailand, one brand is Square D. Often a 2 pole is used as a main switch and single pole on sub circuits in a metal distribution board (load centre)

I have never seen a MEN installation in Thailand, all have utilised the direct earthing system, if earthing is implemented at all.

No one has produced as yet a document in Thailand (in English) stating that the MEN system is mandatory.

either in a regulation or conditions of supply by the PEA/MEA. Until that time and the fact that correct circuit connections and polarity testing is not carried out on connection to supply it would be advisable NOT to connect a MEN link at the consumers main switchboard.

The wide use of 2 pin sockets and appliances connected by a 2pin plug top and twin flex, along with 2 core extension leads would be a problem as there is no PE (protective earth) so in the event of an earth fault the protective device would not operate, and the person could receive a severe electric shock. However RCDs would

disconnect the circuit in less than 0.2 secs, affording protection. In practice about 0.02secs.

RCBOs are available in 1 pole + fixed neutral and 2 pole, 10ma and 30ma.

Edited March 23, 2010 by david96

[Crossy]

David. nobody said double-pole MCBs were not available, just that their use in CUs (other than for the incomer) was unusual. I've not seen a single domestic installation in Thailand with 2-pole MCBs (apart from the incomer).

There are some villages that are apparently delta connected (220V phase-phase) which would require 2-pole MCBs, but I have not personally observed such an installation in Thailand (Philippines is wired this way).

I agree that unless you can confirm MEN the link should not be inserted, always safest to assume TT.

I can't produce any form of written regulation on MEN (or for that matter any other domestic electrical regs), however every one of the certified house plans carried on my website (and the government site they came from) shows the Thai implementation of MEN on the wiring diagram (N-E link + ground stake) which at least hints that there is a requirement somewhere

[david96]

Some of the older installations eg 20 years use double pole MCBs no neutral link or 2 pole fused switches.

The ones I have seen were of the "MEM" brand and a recent one used Square D MCBs in Bangkok in a new residence, all MCBs were 2 pole and no neutral link.

What Thai government website did you obtain the information on the MEN connection? How is it that the PEA/MEA cannot advise on its use? It has to be enshrined in legislation before it can be implemented.

Evidence shows that no one has any knowledge of its official or mandatory use. It would be interesting to locate that document.

Edited March 23, 2010 by david96

[david96]

Actually Crossy, if one carries out a risk assessment there is a potential electrical hazard that may be introduced by the use of the MEN system in Thailand.

The hazard is electric shock from the earthing system from reversal of polarity on the consumers mains. In Australia/NZ/UK that hazard is minimal and in practice may never happen.

In Thailand it is different, reversal of polarity is far more common and it seems to be picked up when the MEN system is implemented at an individual electrical installation. Therefore the chances of this hazard occurring is high and there is a likely event that it could occur. With this in mind one would try to minimise the hazard and the only way to do this is to not use a MEN link.

One wonders how may electrical installations in Thailand have incorrect polarity and have been like that for perhaps years. And no one notices it because the MEN system is not implemented.

[Crossy]

Hi David.

Take a look at this one:-

This came from one of the plans on my site here http://www.crossy.co.uk/Thai_House_Plans/index.html originally downloaded from the Thai government website here http://www.dpt.go.th/download/PW/house_model/framehome.html

Whilst I've seen no actual legislation (Elkangorito may be able to help there) the presence of a N-E link on government approved house designs is at least a hint.

BTW, I really don't like the way that N-E is linked on these plans, makes it very difficult to remove the link in the event of it becoming necessary. The same iffy technique is also shown on the installation diagram for the Safe-T-Cut boxes.

And yes, I agree with your risk assessment

[lopburi3]

Whichever way you go, run the fridge and freezer from a non-RCD radial (look at my drawing of a split-service CU), you don't want to come home after a week away to find the freezer tripped out

As this comes up often would like to point out that many of us do not travel - I suspect most of us (or otherwise always have someone at home). So this would not be a major issue and the whole house RCD works - in my case for over 30 years. Although I do like the idea of RCD's on sub panels personally to limit the potential outage.

Also that you are talking only about a properly grounded system with the above non use of RCD comment. For most homes the RCD will be a very welcome protection from a live cabinet.

[david96]

Thanks, Crossy.

Now it all becomes clearer.

Thai system of implementation of the MEN would seem to be.

Install the neutral link on the line side of the main switch (MCB).

Use of the neutral link and earth bar, no separate earth bar.

10 sqmm for the main earth.

2 x 10 sqmm for the consumers mains minimum.

All circuits on a 30ma RCD.

I would agree with you on the location of the neutral link.

Edited March 23, 2010 by david96

[powderpuff]

You mention a 16 slot consumer unit (breaker box). Have you worked out your maximum load? I ask because it is normal for each breaker box to be limited to 63 AMPS.

I personally would run a dedicated run of at least 4 mm2 wire to the hot water heater. Washing machine can normally run off the normal sockets.

I ran a special curcuit for my clothes dryer.

I personally don't run my aircons through a Saf-T-Cut. Separate breaker box for those.

[elkangorito]

Crossy, did you get the drawing translated? If not, I'll take it to work & have one of the electrical guys translate it. It may shed more light on this subject.

[Crossy]

Crossy, did you get the drawing translated? If not, I'll take it to work & have one of the electrical guys translate it. It may shed more light on this subject.

Can't hurt Mate. The diagram is pretty clear though

[eraymos]

You mention a 16 slot consumer unit (breaker box). Have you worked out your maximum load? I ask because it is normal for each breaker box to be limited to 63 AMPS.

I personally would run a dedicated run of at least 4 mm2 wire to the hot water heater. Washing machine can normally run off the normal sockets.

I ran a special curcuit for my clothes dryer.

I personally don't run my aircons through a Saf-T-Cut. Separate breaker box for those.

I do not have an exact count on what the max load is. A rough estimate is somewhere around 50 amps. A large part of why I started this thread was and is to find out how many circuits I need and have 2-3 empty slots for eventual future use. I'm not a rich man but this is not an area where one should try and cut corners to save a few thousand baht.

[david96]

Crossy, did you get the drawing translated? If not, I'll take it to work & have one of the electrical guys translate it. It may shed more light on this subject.

The drawing is clear but a translation would be more informative.

It would appear that 10sqmm is the minimum for the main earth. It would appear that their implementation of the MEN system relies on the main earth at each electrical installation and at least one earth on the distribution system. By definition it is TN-C-S.

One wonders why a separate earth link is not used in the drawing. A 2 pole MCB is used as the main switch but a single pole device in the phase conductor is all that is required. The neutral link is before the main switch because perhaps a 2 pole device is used in this case. 10kA fault level has been selected as consumers service protective devices are rarely used.

The document in itself would seem to legitimise and justify the use in practice of the MEN system on new electrical installations from the start of 2547/2005.

It is a drawing that can be expanded upon for electrical installations in general.

[stgrhe]

OP, the thread below will teach you how to undertake a Maximum Demand Calculation for your installation.

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/Maximum-Dema...in-t316611.html

[elkangorito]

OP, the thread below will teach you how to undertake a Maximum Demand Calculation for your installation.

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/Maximum-Dema...in-t316611.html

...or teach you how to get a big headache very quickly

Seriously, read the thread. It may prompt you to ask questions or submit relevant info.

Edited March 24, 2010 by elkangorito

[eraymos]

OP, the thread below will teach you how to undertake a Maximum Demand Calculation for your installation.

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/Maximum-Dema...in-t316611.html

...or teach you how to get a big headache very quickly

Seriously, read the thread. It may prompt you to ask questions or submit relevant info.

No surprise, I am a retard when it comes to this stuff! I think the correct term is mentaly challenged or stupid American . The more I read the less I understand. What also makes it hard is that I'm living in Norway and am planing to have the electrical done when me and the family come down on holiday. In Norway we live in a rental apartment that is about 100m2 and have old screw in type fuses. The main fuse is 32 amp and we almost never blow fuses. We have all the normal amennities, el range, electric panel ovens (cold up here!), HW, DW,and washing machine. This makes it hard for my electricaly challenged mind to understand that a 64 amp main would be a problem.

Our house in Thailand is anout 190m2. We only plan on having AC in the living room that is about 35m2 so I don't think we need that powerfull of an AC.. Living in Norway makes it a little hard to find out KW ratings on products from Thailand. I had hoped that you guys could help me to know "where do I go from here" Do I have to go out and buy every thing I need before I can install the electrics or plan on buying one thing only to find out that they don't make that product any more.

I hope that someone can understand how and what I'm thinking and can help me

[elkangorito]

Before we start, here are some definitions I will use throughout this thread:

DGPO - a power outlet with 2 x sockets.

SGPO - a power outlet with 1 x sockets.

MCB - Miniature Circuit Breaker.

DB - distribution board (consumer unit/breaker box).

RCBO - a residual current operated circuit-breaker designed to perform the functions of protection against overloads and/or short circuits.

PSC - Prospective Shortcircuit Current.

MD - Maximum Demand.

v - volts.

W - Watts.

kW - kilowatts (1000 Watts).

a/c - air conditioning.

UG - under ground.

The 1st thing that needs to be done is a Maximum Demand calculation. Nothing else can be done until an MD has been calculated. For this, the following information is required:

1] The total number of DGPO's/SGPO's in the installation. Don't go overboard - as a general rule, 2 x DGPO's per room is adequate. If you intend to have a lounge room where TV's, steroes, DVD players etc will be used, usually 4 x DGPO's are enough in this room.

The kitchen should have at least 2 x DGPO's but there is nothing wrong with having more, although I wouldn't have more than 4 x DGPO's.

2] The total number of indoor light fittings. Each light fitting should be rated at not more than 60W. If a light fitting is capable of having more than one lamp, each lamp should not be rated more than 60W & such a fitting must be identified (it will be counted as 3 lights).

3] Total number & wattage of outdoor light fittings. This includes lighting for pools & tennis courts etc.

4] If each a/c unit is rated at less than 10 amps, each a/c unit of this type can be included in the GPO count. Each a/c unit rated at more than 10 amps must be counted seperately.

This means that you will need to know exactly what type/size of each a/c unit (get a company to do a survey for you).

5] Water heaters - the ratings of any kind of water heating device & the number of them used.

6] Pumps or motors rated at not more than 2.2kW OR any "plug in" pump/motor.

7] Pumps or motors rated at more than 2.2kW.

8] Cooking appliances - this does not include rice cookers or other small "plug in" appliances. It does include cooking ranges. Provide complete electrical details about these things.

9] Any laundry/washing appliances that may seem 'special' or may not be of the "plug in" type.

10] Any external buildings that require power. Provide details about the intended use of such a building.

Hopefully others will chime in (Zapatero, STGRHE) to provide further information.

[eraymos]

The 1st thing that needs to be done is a Maximum Demand calculation. Nothing else can be done until an MD has been calculated. For this, the following information is required:

1] The total number of DGPO's/SGPO's in the installation. Don't go overboard - as a general rule, 2 x DGPO's per room is adequate. If you intend to have a lounge room where TV's, steroes, DVD players etc will be used, usually 4 x DGPO's are enough in this room.

The kitchen should have at least 2 x DGPO's but there is nothing wrong with having more, although I wouldn't have more than 4 x DGPO's.

2] The total number of indoor light fittings. Each light fitting should be rated at not more than 60W. If a light fitting is capable of having more than one lamp, each lamp should not be rated more than 60W & such a fitting must be identified (it will be counted as 3 lights).

3] Total number & wattage of outdoor light fittings. This includes lighting for pools & tennis courts etc.

4] If each a/c unit is rated at less than 10 amps, each a/c unit of this type can be included in the GPO count. Each a/c unit rated at more than 10 amps must be counted seperately.

This means that you will need to know exactly what type/size of each a/c unit (get a company to do a survey for you).

5] Water heaters - the ratings of any kind of water heating device & the number of them used.

6] Pumps or motors rated at not more than 2.2kW OR any "plug in" pump/motor.

7] Pumps or motors rated at more than 2.2kW.

8] Cooking appliances - this does not include rice cookers or other small "plug in" appliances. It does include cooking ranges. Provide complete electrical details about these things.

9] Any laundry/washing appliances that may seem 'special' or may not be of the "plug in" type.

10] Any external buildings that require power. Provide details about the intended use of such a building.

Hopefully others will chime in (Zapatero, STGRHE) to provide further information.

Let's see if I understand you right

Lights (indoor) 13 regular and 6 drop lights 5A MD

Lights (outdoor) 12 <60 watt 3A MD

DGPO (indoor) 25 15A MD

SGPO (indoor) 5

SGPO A/C <10A Dishwasher <10A

washing machine <10A

DGPO (outdoor) 3

SGPO (outdoor) 2 * 10A MD

*1 water pressure pump

Hot Water Heater (tank) 11.36A MD

Total 44.36A MD

That would then say that if I'm going to have an el. range or hobb/oven that it should not have a combined total of over 9000w?

That would be 20A MD and a combined total of 64(.36)A MD?

Do the amount of MCBs have anything to say? (A/C 1 MCB , Fridge/ Dishwasher 1MCB?) RCBO?

[elkangorito]

I'm sorry eraymos, you do not "understand me right".

To reiterate;

1] All light fittings are different. Some are designed to take one (1) lamp whilst others are designed to take more than one (1) lamp.

For the purposes of this exercise, I need to know the following;

a] How many light fittings you have, which take a single lamp rated at no more than 60W.

b] How many light fittings you have, which take more than one lamp rated at no more than 60W. In this case, I need to know the quantity of such light fittings & the wattage of each lamp. For example, you may have two light fittings, each capable of taking 3 lamps rated at no more than 60W. This equates to six (6) lights for my purposes.

c] How many light fitting you have that are capable of taking lamps rated at more than 60W.

Please tell me the number of indoor lights again. Please tell me the MAXIMUM WATTAGE allowable for each light fitting. For example, if a light fitting is capable of taking 3 x 100W lamps, I need to know this. I DO NOT need to know the wattage of the lamps you intend to use. I DO need to know the maximum wattage of the lamps permissible for each light fitting.

If you are unsure, I can assume a maximum value of 60W. If you go over this limit, your MD will be different (but not by much).

Your initial MD calculation is very important because it sets the scene for future load additions.

Correct me if I am wrong with the following. You have:

1] 19 indoor light fittings rated at <60W. All of these lights take one (1) lamp each.

2] 26 indoor DGPO's (this figure includes the dishwasher & fridge, which I assume will be in the kitchen).

3] 6 indoor SGPO's (this includes the pump. It doesn't matter that the pump is indoor or outdoor as long as it is a "plug in" unit).

4] 1 x a/c rated at less than 10 amps.

5] 1 x hot water storage tank. Please give me the rating in Watts.

If you think you will have a cooking range &/or an oven, you must tell me NOW the size of such things.

Please leave the MD calcs up to me & do not attempt to calculate this yourself. There are 4 ways of calculating MD. I will be using the most common, which is called "after diversity maximum demand".

Also, I will add about 20% extra to your MD to allow for future demand.

This whole thing will be a slow process, as we are discussing this via the internet. If you are patient enough, things will work out ok.

[eraymos]

I'm sorry eraymos, you do not "understand me right".

To reiterate;

1] All light fittings are different. Some are designed to take one (1) lamp whilst others are designed to take more than one (1) lamp.

For the purposes of this exercise, I need to know the following;

a] How many light fittings you have, which take a single lamp rated at no more than 60W.

b] How many light fittings you have, which take more than one lamp rated at no more than 60W. In this case, I need to know the quantity of such light fittings & the wattage of each lamp. For example, you may have two light fittings, each capable of taking 3 lamps rated at no more than 60W. This equates to six (6) lights for my purposes.

c] How many light fitting you have that are capable of taking lamps rated at more than 60W.

Please tell me the number of indoor lights again. Please tell me the MAXIMUM WATTAGE allowable for each light fitting. For example, if a light fitting is capable of taking 3 x 100W lamps, I need to know this. I DO NOT need to know the wattage of the lamps you intend to use. I DO need to know the maximum wattage of the lamps permissible for each light fitting.

If you are unsure, I can assume a maximum value of 60W. If you go over this limit, your MD will be different (but not by much).

Your initial MD calculation is very important because it sets the scene for future load additions.

Correct me if I am wrong with the following. You have:

1] 19 indoor light fittings rated at <60W. All of these lights take one (1) lamp each.

2] 26 indoor DGPO's (this figure includes the dishwasher & fridge, which I assume will be in the kitchen). Yes

3] 6 indoor SGPO's (this includes the pump. It doesn't matter that the pump is indoor or outdoor as long as it is a "plug in" unit).

4] 1 x a/c rated at less than 10 amps. Yes

5] 1 x hot water storage tank. Please give me the rating in Watts. 2500kW

25

If you think you will have a cooking range &/or an oven, you must tell me NOW the size of such things.

Please leave the MD calcs up to me & do not attempt to calculate this yourself. There are 4 ways of calculating MD. I will be using the most common, which is called "after diversity maximum demand".

Also, I will add about 20% extra to your MD to allow for future demand.

This whole thing will be a slow process, as we are discussing this via the internet. If you are patient enough, things will work out ok.

Thanks, I told you that I am retarded when it comes to this stuff. I will have to get back to you on some of your questions. What I can tell you is that most of the lighting will be of the circular flurecent type (32 watt?)

The hot water heater we were looking at is a wall hung Ariston Ti-100(L) R, from what I can understand it is 2500kW.

As far as for cooking food we are looking at a Siemens oven with a total connected load 3.24 kW 230V/ 50hz and a 3 zone hob connected load 5.9kW 220-240v/ 50-60hz. We have also thought about going with a 2 zone hob 3.2KW 220-240V/50-60hz with 1 or 2 gas zones next to it.

Thanks agan for all your help!!!!!

[eraymos]

I don't know if this will help any. This is what my wife and I are thinking.

[elkangorito]

From your posted plan, I have the following assumptions/suggestions:

1] kitchen - 8 x outlets (4 x DGPO's). 1 x light/fan. 1 x oven. 1 x hob (cooktop). 1 x exhaust fan.

Suggestions, lighting - lighting in a kitchen is important. It's much better to 'get it right' now than later. Shadows can be a problem when cooking. Lighting above a stove (cooktop) is a great idea, as well as other lighting to provide normal light. I suggest fluorescent lighting (colour - 'cool white').

2] You seem to have 4 x DGPO's in each bedroom (8 x outlets). I think this is 'over the top'. I recommend that you reduce this number to 2 x DGPO's per bedroom.

3] I advise against having any GPO's in a bathroom, however & if you insist, I recommend that these 2 GPO's be supplied by a special circuit, which shall be protected by a 10mA RCBO.

4] I assume that the 'washroom' is the laundry.

5] I assume that the water heater is an Ariston TI 100H DX SIN/ TI 100H DX L (as per the Ariston website http://www.ariston-heater.com.sg/storage.html ).

6] With regard to the cooking appliances, I will assume a worst case scenario, which means a 3 zone hob with a connected load 5.9kW & a Siemens oven with a total connected load of 3.24kW (both single phase).

Please indicate any agreement/disagreement with the above.

[eraymos]

From your posted plan, I have the following assumptions/suggestions:

1] kitchen - 8 x outlets (4 x DGPO's). 1 x light/fan. 1 x oven. 1 x hob (cooktop). 1 x exhaust fan.

Suggestions, lighting - lighting in a kitchen is important. It's much better to 'get it right' now than later. Shadows can be a problem when cooking. Lighting above a stove (cooktop) is a great idea, as well as other lighting to provide normal light. I suggest fluorescent lighting (colour - 'cool white'). Thought all range hoods (exhaust) came with light(s). They do here in Norway and in the states.

YES, fluoresecent. Thought about fluorescents in many rooms

.

2] You seem to have 4 x DGPO's in each bedroom (8 x outlets). I think this is 'over the top'. I recommend that you reduce this number to 2 x DGPO's per bedroom. Would be nice with 4. What would the MD difference be with 4, 3, or 2 DGPO's

3] I advise against having any GPO's in a bathroom, however & if you insist, I recommend that these 2 GPO's be supplied by a special circuit, which shall be protected by a 10mA RCBO. Wife wants, I thought all 3 wet rooms should be RCBO protected

4] I assume that the 'washroom' is the laundry. YES

5] I assume that the water heater is an Ariston TI 100H DX SIN/ TI 100H DX L (as per the Ariston website http://www.ariston-heater.com.sg/storage.html ).

What I have says TI-TECH Ti-100 R (looks like Ti TRONIC 100V)

6] With regard to the cooking appliances, I will assume a worst case scenario, which means a 3 zone hob with a connected load 5.9kW & a Siemens oven with a total connected load of 3.24kW (both single phase). Sounds good

Please indicate any agreement/disagreement with the above.

Hope my answers are helpful