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Honda Cbr 250R 2011


LOSHonda

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Be nice to fit a set of these Carbon Rims on a new bike........supposedly equal to about 9hp gain in performance, according to the advert. Plus matching upgrade tyres of course.

Rim size in the chart are larger than the 250 sizes but gives a good comparison.

Wheel Type

Wheel Dimensions

Std Cast Aluminium

BST Carbon Fibre

Front

17x3.50

4.238 Kg

2.350 Kg

Rear

17x5.50

5.590 Kg

2.900 Kg

Total Weight

Pair

9.828 Kg

5.250 Kg

Weight Saving

=

=

4.578 Kg

Weight Saving %

=

=

46.58%

But I guess u need be fairly serious about upgrading........spending 124,000 B before import duty or taxes here!!!

Oh well...nice dream

No way will saving just a few kilos give the equivalent of a near 40% HP boost.

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they only said new bike release. also it did not go on the APe website until the day AFTER the party....... so no didn't notice :D

Actually APe promo'd the release of the bike (150i) over a month in advance, while keeping the photos secret to build suspense, which worked a treat. Before releasing the pics of the new model 5 days before. :)

Also i think he was getting at the fact this thread is talking about the Cbr250... can you tell me where APe are advertising that?????

Why would they be advertising an export model that's probably not going to be released here? :D

Edited by appropriate
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they only said new bike release. also it did not go on the APe website until the day AFTER the party....... so no didn't notice :D

Actually APe promo'd the release of the bike (150i) over a month in advance, while keeping the photos secret to build suspense, which worked a treat. Before releasing the pics of the new model 5 days before. :)

Also i think he was getting at the fact this thread is talking about the Cbr250... can you tell me where APe are advertising that?????

Why would they be advertising an export model that's probably not going to be released here? :D

Maybe..... because it is being released here?? Ive seen Hondas delivery sheets showing clearly 250s being delivered on certain dates, but the electronic hiccup set them back unexpectedly.

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REVIEW

Ok, after spending more than a few hours on the new 150 yesterday and today, here's my "review". While some things are factual, others are my personal opinion. I've now driven the bike for 2 days, both in city traffic and on the open highway, daytime and night time, but kept the speed to only 110 till the engine is broken in. Here's what I've come up with.

a) Major improvement in the headlight over the old model, especially when on high beam.

B) You can definitely feel the weight difference when you are doing things like pushing the bike backwards away from the curb, or driving a very slow speeds of 5-10kph. But even at those slow speeds, the bike feels more stable than the old model, or that could just be my imagination.

c) Once you're moving, you don't notice the weight, but you do notice that the bike feels much more stable than the old model, especially at the higher speeds. I attribute this to not only the extra weight, but the increased tire size as well.

d) While perhaps not quite as nimble as the old model, weaving in and out of traffic is no problem at all, but because of the extra "width" of the mirrors, going between cars is not as easy as the old model. And on the highways the bike handles effortlessly.

e) And speaking of the mirrors, I actually like these much better. In my opinion they give me a better view of what's behind me than the old ones did, and they are set at a good level for my eyes.

f) While I would have to actually run against an old model to make sure, this one feels quicker off the line, and quicker to reach 100-110 than the old model. But again, that just may be my opinion and not actually based on fact.

g) Shifting gears feels smoother, and even a little faster than the old model.

h) At speeds of 100-110, the bike is definitely more stable, and I'm assuming that will also be the case later on when I decide to push it a little more.

i) In terms of "ride comfort", those of us who prefer the "sports bike style", this bike is very comfortable, with good suspension that handles small bumps in the road, as well as speed bumps in the moo ban, very easily. My feeling is that this will be a very good bike for longer road trips, which I plan on doing sometime after my birthday in February.

And then there's the "Wow!" Factor. No matter where I go, this bike, with the tri-color paint scheme, draws attention. I've had everyone from the "Average Sondhi" to cops and loan shark collectors coming to look at it and ask me about it. Especially the loan sharks collectors, most of whom are riding around on the old model, usually black. Lol.

In my opinion, this is a MUCH improved, much better 150 than the previous model. And while I loved my old one, I have no regrets about selling it after only 18 months and buying this one, even if I did have to wait almost 5 months to do so.

One of the things that has surprised me is that my wife actually LOVES this bike. She wasn't too crazy about it when I bought the black 150 two years ago, saying I would probably kill myself, but after a while she got used to it, and then was only upset because at 148cm, her cute, sexy legs were just too short for her to drive it. But this bike she actually loves and is very excited about.

I do want to make a couple of mods. The larger wind screen and K&N air filter for starters, and Mobile Synthetic at the first 1,000k, but those are minor things. I'm also waiting for the aftermarket accessories, such as tank bags and a couple of other things, and I also want to change tires from the IRC's to Michelin and Dunlap, or perhaps Pirelli, but that will have to wait a little while. Between 4 days in the hospital, some costly improvements on the house, and now the CBR, that's put a bit of a dent in my cash flow for a little while.

But all in all, I'm A Happy Camper!! :thumbsup:

:partytime2:

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No way will saving just a few kilos give the equivalent of a near 40% HP boost.

As I mentioned the figures quoted are for a bigger size than the 250 wheels. However I would think the % is similar and would have a more dramatic effect on a lesser powerd bike than say a 1litre bike. (except the numbers magnifys at higher speeds)

But I dont know that for sure of course. Again all a bit academic really as I think the cost is way out of line compared to the bike cost. Few would even contemplate changing.

Here are a few advantages explained...in USA numbers unfortuately. Again numbers fom a 1 liter bike.

1. Lighter wheels can make your bike faster

Think of it this way - imagine the amount of energy you need to spin the front tire of your car/truck when it's jacked up and off the ground. Now think about the energy it takes to spin the tire on your ten speed bicycle. Big difference right? The ten speed wheel spins easier because it weighs less! -Yes, there are variances - friction in the bearings, etc., but the biggest reason for the difference is the mass (weight) of the wheel/tire itself. It's the engine that spins the wheels/tires of your race bike. If it takes less energy to turn those wheels that horsepower can be used for other things - like greater top speed or increased acceleration.

The Weight savings is approx. 7 - 9 lbs per rim.

That comes out to: 16 oz. x 8 lbs = 128 oz Weight savings on average per Rim

It's huge when you take into account that 1 oz. on 17" Rims is = to 25 lbs of rotating mass at 100mph.

So, if we do the math, 128 oz. x 25 =

3200 lbs of rotating mass is removed from your rims.

That is Huge.

Think how much faster your bike can accelerate without that weight.

And how much faster your top end is, without that weight

2. Lighter wheels make your bike easier to turn

We'll delve into a little physics here to explain this, but we'll make it painless - When you turn, the bike goes from straight up and down to some degree of lean - some angle from vertical. Because of the gyroscopic effect of your wheels the bike tends to resist this change.That's right - those wheels turn into big gyroscopes when they spin! The "gyro effect" is what tends stand the bike up when you ride. When the wheels spin they make the bike want to stay up. You can demonstrate this on your bike - find a safe place and ride your bike at about 30 mph and take your hands off the bars. The bike stays up because of the gyroscopic effect of the wheels. As the bike slows the gyro effect lessens and if you keep your hands off - the bike tips. The amount of "gyroscoping" is dependent on two things - how fast your wheel/tires spin and - that's right - how much they weigh! One ounce of weight on the rim of a 17 inch rim turns into 25 lbs at 100 mph (here's where the physics guys would go into the "mass and acceleration" discussion, but we're going to skip it...) - we want the bike to tip - to change from vertical to lean - and the faster we can go from vertical to leaning the better. That's what is meant by a bike's "turn in" ability. The easier it is to lean into that corner the easier it is to take it faster. We're not about to reduce the speed of the wheel, so to lessen the gyro effect we reduce the weight of the "spinning mass".This is usually the most noticeable difference after changing to lighter wheels. Racers say the bike feels lighter when it weighs virtually the same - it just fights you less....

3.Lighter wheels Help your Bike STOP Quicker

With all the reduced Rotational mass, your bike will be able to stop much quicker.

Think about it. This could mean the difference between slamming into the back of that Car

That just pulled out in front of you, or stopping 5 feet short. All because of these light weight rims.

4.Lighter wheels help your suspension work better



You may think that the springs in your front/rear suspension hold your bike off the ground - it does seem logical doesn't it? They don't - solid bars could do that. Try to visualize it this way - the springs try to hold the tire in contact with the road - they push the tires down. But - the road has imperfections, some big (bumps/ripples), some small (imperfections in the surface) that try to "bounce" your wheel/tire off. When your tire bounces, even a teeny tiny bit, your traction goes to zero! All of this bouncing is really just up and down motion that is starting and stopping. Again physics tells us that the energy required for all this starting and stopping is a function of (of course) weight. This what all that talk about unsprung weight is about when you read it in the magazines. When your springs have to handle less weight they will naturally do a better job of holding the tire against the road. To us road racers that means greater traction - the rubber is in contact with the surface more of the time. That means better grip in the turns which translates to increased corner speed and lower lap times. Better traction also means less wheelspin and that means better drive out of the turns - an additional bonus.

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All I can say to the above is interesting reading but most likely written by an academic, not a rider or racer.

Back in the days when I mechaniced for a friend in the UK Superstock series changing to lighter wheels made not one iota of difference to top speed, nothing noticeable to acceleration but had a modest difference to handling, mostly in turn-in speed.

More benefit from having a shit and a piss before a ride to save weight imho.

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Ive seen Hondas delivery sheets showing clearly 250s being delivered on certain dates

Didn't come, did it.

A mistake that was only rectified when someone saw that an export bike was due to be delivered with in the country of production MTL. :D

Edited by appropriate
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Ive seen Hondas delivery sheets showing clearly 250s being delivered on certain dates

Didn't come, did it.

A mistake that was only rectified when someone saw that an export bike was due to be delivered with in the country of production MTL. :D

My local Honda dealer told me Dec 10 so, I won't give you gloating rights 'till then ;)

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The exec that my wife talked to last week at the Honda Showroom here in C.M. told her that because the 150 and 250 are almost identical, except for the engine, many of the parts were actually interchangeable between the two. Not sure if that's a good thing or bad thing.

Anyway, after weighing all the variables, and taking the 150 for a test ride in both city traffic and the highway, I went ahead and ordered the tri-color 150. Had no problems weaving in and out of the traffic, and the stability on the highway at 110 was much better than the old model. If I can maneuver in city traffic,and still cruse the highways at 120 or so for the longer road trips, that's all I really need.

WHERE IN CM did they let you take a test drive? Which SHowroom? Unheard of! And they had a 250 as well?

thanks

Jbeck

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WHERE IN CM did they let you take a test drive? Which SHowroom? Unheard of! And they had a 250 as well?

thanks

Jbeck

Test drive at the Honda showroom on Mahidol road next to the Toyota dealership. The building looks like a large appliance store, which it is, with the Honda dealer located at the far end. And I didn't say they had a 250 there, only that the exec my wife talked to said many of the parts were interchangeable.

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Quote

1. Lighter wheels can make your bike faster

Think of it this way - imagine the amount of energy you need to spin the front tire of your car/truck when it's jacked up and off the ground. Now think about the energy it takes to spin the tire on your ten speed bicycle. Big difference right? The ten speed wheel spins easier because it weighs less! -Yes, there are variances - friction in the bearings, etc., but the biggest reason for the difference is the mass (weight) of the wheel/tire itself. It's the engine that spins the wheels/tires of your race bike. If it takes less energy to turn those wheels that horsepower can be used for other things - like greater top speed or increased acceleration.

The Weight savings is approx. 7 - 9 lbs per rim.

That comes out to: 16 oz. x 8 lbs = 128 oz Weight savings on average per Rim

It's huge when you take into account that 1 oz. on 17" Rims is = to 25 lbs of rotating mass at 100mph.

So, if we do the math, 128 oz. x 25 =

3200 lbs of rotating mass is removed from your rims.

That is Huge.

Think how much faster your bike can accelerate without that weight.

And how much faster your top end is, without that weight

The author is showing a total misunderstanding of how a rotating mass affects a bikes acceleration and speed. It is absolutely different from that of the rest of the bike. Overall bike weight and aerodynamics are what affect speed and acceleration not the wheel weight. There is even an argument that a heavier wheel could be advantageous to top speed in certain conditions due to the increased gyroscopic affect but the advanced physicists here will have to debate that point :D

Consider one simple thing. A modern sports bike weighs maybe 400 pounds

If the engine also has to overcome an additional 3200 pounds from each wheel then it would be next to impossible to get the bike to accelerate from 100 mph!

Apologies for going way OT :)

Edited by edwinchester
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Quote

1. Lighter wheels can make your bike faster

Think of it this way - imagine the amount of energy you need to spin the front tire of your car/truck when it's jacked up and off the ground. Now think about the energy it takes to spin the tire on your ten speed bicycle. Big difference right? The ten speed wheel spins easier because it weighs less! -Yes, there are variances - friction in the bearings, etc., but the biggest reason for the difference is the mass (weight) of the wheel/tire itself. It's the engine that spins the wheels/tires of your race bike. If it takes less energy to turn those wheels that horsepower can be used for other things - like greater top speed or increased acceleration.

The Weight savings is approx. 7 - 9 lbs per rim.

That comes out to: 16 oz. x 8 lbs = 128 oz Weight savings on average per Rim

It's huge when you take into account that 1 oz. on 17" Rims is = to 25 lbs of rotating mass at 100mph.

So, if we do the math, 128 oz. x 25 =

3200 lbs of rotating mass is removed from your rims.

That is Huge.

Think how much faster your bike can accelerate without that weight.

And how much faster your top end is, without that weight

The author is showing a total misunderstanding of how a rotating mass affects a bikes acceleration and speed. It is absolutely different from that of the rest of the bike. Overall bike weight and aerodynamics are what affect speed and acceleration not the wheel weight. There is even an argument that a heavier wheel could be advantageous to top speed in certain conditions due to the increased gyroscopic affect but the advanced physicists here will have to debate that point :D

Consider one simple thing. A modern sports bike weighs maybe 400 pounds

If the engine also has to overcome an additional 3200 pounds from each wheel then it would be next to impossible to get the bike to accelerate from 100 mph!

Apologies for going way OT :)

Calculating that way would work for rotational inertia of a thin walled hollow cylinder, two wheeled vehicles have quite a light rim weight when compared to the total wheel weight. Yes, lighter wheels result in greater acceleration and deceleration for the same power, but don't cause much difference at a constant speed. In top speed conditions the heavier rim provides a more stable bike, but won't you really be needing to push the edges of performance (and aerodynamics) to compare differences.

Link from my bookmarks on Rotational Inertia calculations, check out the 'Lugnut Rotational Inertia' calculation which I find interesting for my friends that send big bucks for light weight lug nuts on their rice burners.

Think the CBR 250r stock wheels and IRC tires would fit our needs just fine; the IRC's on the Kawaker Ninja and D-Tac were quite a surprise with there quality

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So many negative thoughts about a bike that few have seen, fewer has ridden, and so on...

I do think that the bike will be sold in Thailand (I was there when they had their training course)...

I do think that it is clever of honda to stall the release date since they have just pushed out the CBR150, people will jump ship and go for the CBR250 later on, if they can afford it. Releasing two bikes that are simmilar at the same time is just not good- some time between the two bikes will keep honda in the limelight for much longer.

As it goes for advertising- they must be doing a very good job on the CBR250 since we are all talking about it and few of us has ever seen the thing in real life...

Cheer up people, be positive, stay happy- enjoy the wait and complain once it is out... at least then we can pinpoint what to complain about!

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snowflake you are right lets wait and see what there will be......

just found a post on some thai board which seems like the bike is on show for some reporters, anyway good detailed pictures of the bike....

http://www.bigbikesb...php?topic=398.0

Thanks, nice array of pics. The special Mugen and Moriwaki coloured bikes were also at the Honda Fun Fest. Not sure if will be available or not?? Dealers dont know.

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All I can say to the above is interesting reading but most likely written by an academic, not a rider or racer.

Back in the days when I mechaniced for a friend in the UK Superstock series changing to lighter wheels made not one iota of difference to top speed, nothing noticeable to acceleration but had a modest difference to handling, mostly in turn-in speed.

More benefit from having a shit and a piss before a ride to save weight imho.

Of course weight matters little to top end! Wind resistance (drag coefficient) is a much bigger factor. Remember that the drag is a function of speed2. I.E., the faster you go the more it affects you; 50 kph has only 1/4 as much resistance as 100 kph.

Quote

1. Lighter wheels can make your bike faster

Think of it this way - imagine the amount of energy you need to spin the front tire of your car/truck when it's jacked up and off the ground. Now think about the energy it takes to spin the tire on your ten speed bicycle. Big difference right? The ten speed wheel spins easier because it weighs less! -Yes, there are variances - friction in the bearings, etc., but the biggest reason for the difference is the mass (weight) of the wheel/tire itself. It's the engine that spins the wheels/tires of your race bike. If it takes less energy to turn those wheels that horsepower can be used for other things - like greater top speed or increased acceleration.

The Weight savings is approx. 7 - 9 lbs per rim.

That comes out to: 16 oz. x 8 lbs = 128 oz Weight savings on average per Rim

It's huge when you take into account that 1 oz. on 17" Rims is = to 25 lbs of rotating mass at 100mph.

So, if we do the math, 128 oz. x 25 =

3200 lbs of rotating mass is removed from your rims.

That is Huge.

Think how much faster your bike can accelerate without that weight.

And how much faster your top end is, without that weight

The author is showing a total misunderstanding of how a rotating mass affects a bikes acceleration and speed. It is absolutely different from that of the rest of the bike. Overall bike weight and aerodynamics are what affect speed and acceleration not the wheel weight. There is even an argument that a heavier wheel could be advantageous to top speed in certain conditions due to the increased gyroscopic affect but the advanced physicists here will have to debate that point :D

Consider one simple thing. A modern sports bike weighs maybe 400 pounds

If the engine also has to overcome an additional 3200 pounds from each wheel then it would be next to impossible to get the bike to accelerate from 100 mph!

Apologies for going way OT :)

You're incorrect about wheel weight not affecting (and thanks for not using effecting :whistling: ) acceleration. Wheels, tyres, brakes-calipers-rotors-hoses-etc, all have a direct relationship in how quicklythe bike can accelerate. While it is not an end all to the equation, the rotational inertia of unsprung mass of directly driven wheels is quite a thing to overcome. Furthermore, the '3200 lbs' is a wow factor; that's only one HP when accelerated over one minute.

Quote

1. Lighter wheels can make your bike faster

Think of it this way - imagine the amount of energy you need to spin the front tire of your car/truck when it's jacked up and off the ground. Now think about the energy it takes to spin the tire on your ten speed bicycle. Big difference right? The ten speed wheel spins easier because it weighs less! -Yes, there are variances - friction in the bearings, etc., but the biggest reason for the difference is the mass (weight) of the wheel/tire itself. It's the engine that spins the wheels/tires of your race bike. If it takes less energy to turn those wheels that horsepower can be used for other things - like greater top speed or increased acceleration.

The Weight savings is approx. 7 - 9 lbs per rim.

That comes out to: 16 oz. x 8 lbs = 128 oz Weight savings on average per Rim

It's huge when you take into account that 1 oz. on 17" Rims is = to 25 lbs of rotating mass at 100mph.

So, if we do the math, 128 oz. x 25 =

3200 lbs of rotating mass is removed from your rims.

That is Huge.

Think how much faster your bike can accelerate without that weight.

And how much faster your top end is, without that weight

The author is showing a total misunderstanding of how a rotating mass affects a bikes acceleration and speed. It is absolutely different from that of the rest of the bike. Overall bike weight and aerodynamics are what affect speed and acceleration not the wheel weight. There is even an argument that a heavier wheel could be advantageous to top speed in certain conditions due to the increased gyroscopic affect but the advanced physicists here will have to debate that point :D

Consider one simple thing. A modern sports bike weighs maybe 400 pounds

If the engine also has to overcome an additional 3200 pounds from each wheel then it would be next to impossible to get the bike to accelerate from 100 mph!

Apologies for going way OT :)

Calculating that way would work for rotational inertia of a thin walled hollow cylinder, two wheeled vehicles have quite a light rim weight when compared to the total wheel weight. Yes, lighter wheels result in greater acceleration and deceleration for the same power, but don't cause much difference at a constant speed. In top speed conditions the heavier rim provides a more stable bike, but won't you really be needing to push the edges of performance (and aerodynamics) to compare differences.

Link from my bookmarks on Rotational Inertia calculations, check out the 'Lugnut Rotational Inertia' calculation which I find interesting for my friends that send big bucks for light weight lug nuts on their rice burners.

Think the CBR 250r stock wheels and IRC tires would fit our needs just fine; the IRC's on the Kawaker Ninja and D-Tac were quite a surprise with there quality

Thank you....but I have to disagree about your statement in regards to the quality of the IRC tyres on the Ninjette...

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ahhh what happened to the cbr250 thread? oh well, potentially useful thread bites the dust - now 1 of 10 posts is actually about the CBR?

why are people so reluctant to start a new topic? Like "lighter wheels- and what I'd like to preach to you about them", Wait, don't answer that.

jbeck

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Quote

1. Lighter wheels can make your bike faster

Think of it this way - imagine the amount of energy you need to spin the front tire of your car/truck when it's jacked up and off the ground. Now think about the energy it takes to spin the tire on your ten speed bicycle. Big difference right? The ten speed wheel spins easier because it weighs less! -Yes, there are variances - friction in the bearings, etc., but the biggest reason for the difference is the mass (weight) of the wheel/tire itself. It's the engine that spins the wheels/tires of your race bike. If it takes less energy to turn those wheels that horsepower can be used for other things - like greater top speed or increased acceleration.

The Weight savings is approx. 7 - 9 lbs per rim.

That comes out to: 16 oz. x 8 lbs = 128 oz Weight savings on average per Rim

It's huge when you take into account that 1 oz. on 17" Rims is = to 25 lbs of rotating mass at 100mph.

So, if we do the math, 128 oz. x 25 =

3200 lbs of rotating mass is removed from your rims.

That is Huge.

Think how much faster your bike can accelerate without that weight.

And how much faster your top end is, without that weight

The author is showing a total misunderstanding of how a rotating mass affects a bikes acceleration and speed. It is absolutely different from that of the rest of the bike. Overall bike weight and aerodynamics are what affect speed and acceleration not the wheel weight. There is even an argument that a heavier wheel could be advantageous to top speed in certain conditions due to the increased gyroscopic affect but the advanced physicists here will have to debate that point :D

Consider one simple thing. A modern sports bike weighs maybe 400 pounds

If the engine also has to overcome an additional 3200 pounds from each wheel then it would be next to impossible to get the bike to accelerate from 100 mph!

Apologies for going way OT :)

Calculating that way would work for rotational inertia of a thin walled hollow cylinder, two wheeled vehicles have quite a light rim weight when compared to the total wheel weight. Yes, lighter wheels result in greater acceleration and deceleration for the same power, but don't cause much difference at a constant speed. In top speed conditions the heavier rim provides a more stable bike, but won't you really be needing to push the edges of performance (and aerodynamics) to compare differences.

Link from my bookmarks on Rotational Inertia calculations, check out the 'Lugnut Rotational Inertia' calculation which I find interesting for my friends that send big bucks for light weight lug nuts on their rice burners.

Think the CBR 250r stock wheels and IRC tires would fit our needs just fine; the IRC's on the Kawaker Ninja and D-Tac were quite a surprise with there quality

One ounce at the rim does NOT magically become 25lb at 100mph, I think the OP is confusing weight and centrifugal/centripetal force,

From Fishenough's link above, it seems that, for a wheel, the "equivalent mass", that is the sum of the translational and rotational inertial forces, is in the region of 1.9 times the static mass, meaning that the 4.578kg weight saving of the rather expensive carbon fibre wheels refered to in the original post have an effective weight saving (so far as acceleration is concerned) of 4.578x1.9, roughly 8.7kg.

Not such an enormous saving for B124000 (plus duty etc)!

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Thank you....but I have to disagree about your statement in regards to the quality of the IRC tyres on the Ninjette...

Respectively for a $30 dollar tire on a $3000 dollar bike; not great but not that bad. Both the IRC and CBR250 are good value.

And compared to the Chinese no name brands currently fitted to the well used rental D-Tac's and Ninjette, which are so bad they should be illegal. And I compare them to the Chinese cheap brands I saw in use in North America, that at higher cost than IRC's here, were rubbish. Though I did have a set of Stinko's (shinko?) that weren't bad, but no savings as they threw lugs almost twice as easily as a Dunlop.

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Thank you....but I have to disagree about your statement in regards to the quality of the IRC tyres on the Ninjette...

Respectively for a $30 dollar tire on a $3000 dollar bike; not great but not that bad. Both the IRC and CBR250 are good value.

And compared to the Chinese no name brands currently fitted to the well used rental D-Tac's and Ninjette, which are so bad they should be illegal. And I compare them to the Chinese cheap brands I saw in use in North America, that at higher cost than IRC's here, were rubbish. Though I did have a set of Stinko's (shinko?) that weren't bad, but no savings as they threw lugs almost twice as easily as a Dunlop.

Not to be snotty or anything, but have you ridden the stock tyres on the Ninja?

Even bigbikebbk, who is IMHO overly gracious in his opinion of those tyres, will be quick to tell you they suck in the wet. And I'm not talking soaked, but rather even a smattering of rain means that you have to really watch your ride.

I finally broke downa nd bought some Pirellis for my Ninjette; they're head and shoulders above the stockers and at 9k all in not overly costly for the added security. Low siding can easily cost you more than that (trust me <SUB>

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Not to be snotty or anything, but have you ridden the stock tyres on the Ninja?

Even bigbikebbk, who is IMHO overly gracious in his opinion of those tyres, will be quick to tell you they suck in the wet. And I'm not talking soaked, but rather even a smattering of rain means that you have to really watch your ride.

I finally broke downa nd bought some Pirellis for my Ninjette; they're head and shoulders above the stockers and at 9k all in not overly costly for the added security. Low siding can easily cost you more than that (trust me <SUB>

Nope your not this time... :whistling:

Only spent over 2000k on rental Ninjette's, not much I know and I didn't push it. I love riding in the rain though but ride slow, and even enjoy sliding around if doing so intentionality. 250's need wet conditions, and a popped clutch, to get a power slide. I agree, and for many years spent money on the best tires I could buy and felt the difference. Very soon my D-Tracker will see it's third set of IRC's unless a proper fitting dual sport tire is available; for me that'd be worth 9k.

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Not to be snotty or anything, but have you ridden the stock tyres on the Ninja?

Even bigbikebbk, who is IMHO overly gracious in his opinion of those tyres, will be quick to tell you they suck in the wet. And I'm not talking soaked, but rather even a smattering of rain means that you have to really watch your ride.

I finally broke downa nd bought some Pirellis for my Ninjette; they're head and shoulders above the stockers and at 9k all in not overly costly for the added security. Low siding can easily cost you more than that (trust me <SUB>

Nope your not this time... :whistling:

Only spent over 2000k on rental Ninjette's, not much I know and I didn't push it. I love riding in the rain though but ride slow, and even enjoy sliding around if doing so intentionality. 250's need wet conditions, and a popped clutch, to get a power slide. I agree, and for many years spent money on the best tires I could buy and felt the difference. Very soon my D-Tracker will see it's third set of IRC's unless a proper fitting dual sport tire is available; for me that'd be worth 9k.

Have you considered Pirellis? Don't actually know if they have the sizes you need though. Perhaps the Scorpion MT 90ST would be ok? Biggest problem I see is that they only offer 18" on the front.

MT90_ST_Head_04.jpg

Scorpion Trail offer 120/70 front; quite large.

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Have you considered Pirellis? Don't actually know if they have the sizes you need though. Perhaps the Scorpion MT 90ST would be ok? Biggest problem I see is that they only offer 18" on the front.

MT90_ST_Head_04.jpg

Scorpion Trail offer 120/70 front; quite large.

Yes, there was a D-Tracker with Pirelli MT 60's in the CM Kawasaki shop today. Seen these around; the front is too wide with a higher profile/aspect (120/70,17), and the rear tire touches the swing arm when new. The brand names don't appear to make a 17'er in a size less than 120/70, and a quality DS tire would require a new rim.

Appropriate, thanks, nice side by side - like those higher mirrors on the CBR

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I spoke to 2 dealers in Khampaeng Phet this morning.

One said probably next month or next year and 140,000 baht.

This one told me that a 150 would cost 75,000 baht and I could get finance at 50% deposit and 36 months at 1,830 or 34 months at 2,350 baht.

The other one had no idea but told me the 250 was made in Japan but they did have a nice black 150 if I wanted to order it.

Somebody else figure it out cos I can't.

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