Break Pads For Er6N

[2Na]

Hi all,

I changed my break pads at the Kawa-Rama 9 center, but after a while, I'm getting lots of squeeks and eeks coming from the front brake.

After through washing, and repeated loud squeeking, I was suggested that perhaps I got the "not so good quality" break pads.

I wish to get new ones, I don't mind ordering online or driving around Bangkok to get them.

If anyone got recommendations, or suffer from the same issue, do tell.

[thaicbr]

it sounds like they did not fit the pads properly. take it back to rama 9..

they did not put copper slip on the back off the pads thats why they are squeaking.

[LivinLOS]

One way to 'fix' squeaking brake pads is to have a bevel ground off the outer edge.. The squeal is very often a function of the outer edge either vibrating at high frequency and or sitting in a tiny ridge in the disc.

Not talking taking a lot off, just a couple of mm at a 45 degree angle.

I imagine its going to take some grinding too !!

[BigBikeBKK]

Have you taken the time to bed in the new pads properly??? Stock pads don't have great bite, but they're not terrible either. If you want pads with more bite I recommend EBC HH sintered pads. Ride On! T

[2Na]

Have you taken the time to bed in the new pads properly??? Stock pads don't have great bite, but they're not terrible either. If you want pads with more bite I recommend EBC HH sintered pads. Ride On! T

What do you mean bed in the pads?

How does one "break in" break pads (besides breaking)?

Thanks

[BigBikeBKK]

Have you taken the time to bed in the new pads properly??? Stock pads don't have great bite, but they're not terrible either. If you want pads with more bite I recommend EBC HH sintered pads. Ride On! T

What do you mean bed in the pads?

How does one "break in" break pads (besides breaking)?

Thanks

While I'm tempted to say here's a short lesson on how to bed in new brake pads:

New brake pads need to be bedded in before they will give maximum stopping power.

Depending on the type of pad it usually takes a fair bit of temperature to get the pads bedded in properly.

Just find a big stretch of empty road where you can get going at a good clip (no need for high speed- just make sure there's no one behind you!) and then brake hard until you're almost stopped but DO NOT stop.

Brake forcefully but don't brake so hard that your ABS activates. Repeat a few times until the discs are nice and hot and your pads will bed in nicely and give you maximum stopping power.

A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke is normal when bedding in new pads.

If the pads aren't broken in properly, the pads will not give you 100% stopping power! They will be lousy when cold, may be noisy and may dust like hell.

After the break-in, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face.

The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face.

This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the rotors.

This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

Hope this helps!

Tony :jap:

[2Na]

You were right to flash that icon in my face, I should have searched for it.

But actually, this is the first time I ever heard of something like that is needed for breaks, then I've googled it and found out that it's also needed for cars and everything else with a break pad.

So I'm sure going to try and do that now, I hope it's not too late though.

As for the "bite", I have no problem with it, the breaks break nicely, especially since I'm not a driving too fast (90% of my driving time is home-office-home), but the it just shameful to break at 10 KpH and squeak like rusty old pad-thai stand.

Have you taken the time to bed in the new pads properly??? Stock pads don't have great bite, but they're not terrible either. If you want pads with more bite I recommend EBC HH sintered pads. Ride On! T

What do you mean bed in the pads?

How does one "break in" break pads (besides breaking)?

Thanks

While I'm tempted to say here's a short lesson on how to bed in new brake pads:

New brake pads need to be bedded in before they will give maximum stopping power.

Depending on the type of pad it usually takes a fair bit of temperature to get the pads bedded in properly.

Just find a big stretch of empty road where you can get going at a good clip (no need for high speed- just make sure there's no one behind you!) and then brake hard until you're almost stopped but DO NOT stop.

Brake forcefully but don't brake so hard that your ABS activates. Repeat a few times until the discs are nice and hot and your pads will bed in nicely and give you maximum stopping power.

A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke is normal when bedding in new pads.

If the pads aren't broken in properly, the pads will not give you 100% stopping power! They will be lousy when cold, may be noisy and may dust like hell.

After the break-in, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face.

The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face.

This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the rotors.

This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

Hope this helps!

Tony :jap:

[BigBikeBKK]

The squealing is most likely due to improperly bedded pads and/or contaminated rotors.

Try bedding in the pads per the instructions below and see if that eliminates the squealing. The heat from the bedding in process will remove any contaminants from the rotors.

If that does NOT work, you may want to remove the pads, rough them up with some sandpaper, and start the bedding process over from scratch.

Let us know if this solves it.

Happy Trails!

Tony

You were right to flash that icon in my face, I should have searched for it.

But actually, this is the first time I ever heard of something like that is needed for breaks, then I've googled it and found out that it's also needed for cars and everything else with a break pad.

So I'm sure going to try and do that now, I hope it's not too late though.

As for the "bite", I have no problem with it, the breaks break nicely, especially since I'm not a driving too fast (90% of my driving time is home-office-home), but the it just shameful to break at 10 KpH and squeak like rusty old pad-thai stand.

Have you taken the time to bed in the new pads properly??? Stock pads don't have great bite, but they're not terrible either. If you want pads with more bite I recommend EBC HH sintered pads. Ride On! T

What do you mean bed in the pads?

How does one "break in" break pads (besides breaking)?

Thanks

While I'm tempted to say here's a short lesson on how to bed in new brake pads:

New brake pads need to be bedded in before they will give maximum stopping power.

Depending on the type of pad it usually takes a fair bit of temperature to get the pads bedded in properly.

Just find a big stretch of empty road where you can get going at a good clip (no need for high speed- just make sure there's no one behind you!) and then brake hard until you're almost stopped but DO NOT stop.

Brake forcefully but don't brake so hard that your ABS activates. Repeat a few times until the discs are nice and hot and your pads will bed in nicely and give you maximum stopping power.

A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke is normal when bedding in new pads.

If the pads aren't broken in properly, the pads will not give you 100% stopping power! They will be lousy when cold, may be noisy and may dust like hell.

After the break-in, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face.

The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face.

This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the rotors.

This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

Hope this helps!

Tony :jap:

[Lickey]

One way to 'fix' squeaking brake pads is to have a bevel ground off the outer edge.. The squeal is very often a function of the outer edge either vibrating at high frequency and or sitting in a tiny ridge in the disc.

Not talking taking a lot off, just a couple of mm at a 45 degree angle.

I imagine its going to take some grinding too !!

I agree with Livinlos with this, if you front disc has a small lip on the outside and inside, [previous pad wear] then remove pads, use some sandpaper on the inner and outer edges of pads, just make a small champher, refit pads and all should be ok, High melting point grease would help also, applied to the back of the pad, between the pad and cylinder, Im not familiar with your model of bike, does it have sliding calipers or fixed 2/4 piston calipers? it could be that the sliding part has become dry and needs re-greasing,