thaicruze Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 (edited) As you know I installed Bendix Metal Kings on my Cruze. Can I expect a good 2 years out of them? 45-50,000km? I don't want to wait until I hear the grinding metal sound. Edited September 18, 2012 by thaicruze Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawapower Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 How long is a piece of string? It is not possible to ask such a question as it all depends on your driving style!! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ignis Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 Guess it is how you drive, I would expect a lot more than that.. Bought 3 new pickups here, changed all long before 'the grinding metal sound' somewhere between 110 - 120,000 km, on the car, Auto, Audi A6 still lots of meat on the pads, so far 60,000 on these pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thailoht Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 How long is a piece of string? It is not possible to ask such a question as it all depends on your driving style!! That's right! Plus, to a lesser extent, factoring in the quality of your brake pads and rotors/discs .... there's no 'absolute' here. You are your best indicator here: Note the thickness of the pads now and check the rate of their deterioration at every alignment and tire rotation, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
culicine Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 I don't recall exactly, but I got about 20/30K kms on my metal kings on a civic. My driving style is moderate, no hard braking. Honda changed them out, when they said they were getting low. No grinding noise at that point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kartman Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 Doesn't the Cruze have low brake pad thickness indicators ? if not pretty basic you need to talk to someone that knows something about this model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eeeya Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 normally the brake pads dont wear to "metal on metal". There is a wear indicator which touches the disc when enough pad is worn away and makes a squealing noise. But you can go past this and go to metal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ignis Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 Guess it is what car as well as your driving, most of my driving is done in the pickup with canopy, most of the time fully loaded, last week had the wheels changed around, do so around every 10,000 km, Tyres still very good, Brakes pads very good lots left on them, 84,912 km so far.. On all 3 D-Max, changed the tyres around 75,000 km. brake pads 110-120,000 km, looks like the Mazda BT50 Hi-Racer+ will go many km past that.. Garage says at least 25 - 30,000 km more for the tyres, will look then at the brake pads. Do not do many km in the car, so maybe a few years before can give an answer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennyW Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 I have a 2004 D-Max 4x4, 217,000 Kms and still on the original pads, and this truck is running fully loaded up a lot of the time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbrain Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 normally the brake pads dont wear to "metal on metal". There is a wear indicator which touches the disc when enough pad is worn away and makes a squealing noise. But you can go past this and go to metal Is that a flinstones car you're driving?For the past 30 years or so,when the indicator touches the disk, there is a warning light on the dashboard instead of a squealing noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transam Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 normally the brake pads dont wear to "metal on metal". There is a wear indicator which touches the disc when enough pad is worn away and makes a squealing noise. But you can go past this and go to metal Is that a flinstones car you're driving?For the past 30 years or so,when the indicator touches the disk, there is a warning light on the dashboard instead of a squealing noise. Noooooooooooooooooooooo, no warning light on my Vigo. Owners must not be deaf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mogandave Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 If I remember correctly, the OP only got about 20,000km out of the OEM set. If he does not change his driving habits, he should not expect to do much better than that. It's not a foot-rest! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tangcoral Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 If the gaps between the spokes of your wheels are wide enough, you can usually check whats left with a flashlight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mogandave Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 I have my tires rotated and checked for balance and alignmnet every 10,000 km (costs THB550) and just look at the brakes while it's on the lift. Once I start looking, they pull the rear drums and blow everything off for me too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eeeya Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 normally the brake pads dont wear to "metal on metal". There is a wear indicator which touches the disc when enough pad is worn away and makes a squealing noise. But you can go past this and go to metal Is that a flinstones car you're driving?For the past 30 years or so,when the indicator touches the disk, there is a warning light on the dashboard instead of a squealing noise. arnt you supposed to be posting in the rolls royce thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdenner Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 Had DMAX Automatic 10 years now 125,000 Km, mostly country driving. I had the pads and rear shoes inspected when replacing the tyres last year, still in very good condition. As above I would expect > 200,000 Km. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transam Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 Many factors regarding brake pad longevity. Pad size, disk diameter in proportion to the weight and/or performance of the ride. Pad material Disk material (iron) Bias valve setting for a particular ride (power % to the front over the rear) Weight distribution of vehicle Driving habits of driver. Badly scored disks. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arthurwait Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 (edited) I have my tires rotated and checked for balance and alignmnet every 10,000 km (costs THB550) and just look at the brakes while it's on the lift. Once I start looking, they pull the rear drums and blow everything off for me too. Edited September 20, 2012 by arthurwait Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarpSpeed Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 Many factors regarding brake pad longevity. Pad size, disk diameter in proportion to the weight and/or performance of the ride. Pad material Disk material (iron) Bias valve setting for a particular ride (power % to the front over the rear) Weight distribution of vehicle Driving habits of driver. Badly scored disks. I find myself in agreement, no standard vanilla answer is possible.. Hence I've not offered any.. I see a lot of pickup truck owners responding and it's all apples and oranges as trucks have................Surprise!! Truck brakes! So not at all applicable.. Keep an eye on your brake peddle and feel as well as your brake fluid reservoir and don't make the mistake of topping it off, it matters not as barring any leaks your brake fluid only goes into the system and if it's low guess what?? The brake pads are wearing low, so instead of filling it have your pads inspected, don't let some silly service man tell you need to top it off unless it's dangerously low in which case they probably require replacement, once they're replaced then add as necessary or renew fluid by bleeding.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarpSpeed Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 (edited) I have my tires rotated and checked for balance and alignmnet every 10,000 km (costs THB550) and just look at the brakes while it's on the lift. Once I start looking, they pull the rear drums and blow everything off for me too. 550B? I thought they only handled...................... Sorry, 'offered' that service in massage parlors?? Edited September 20, 2012 by WarpSpeed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mogandave Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 I have my tires rotated and checked for balance and alignmnet every 10,000 km (costs THB550) and just look at the brakes while it's on the lift. Once I start looking, they pull the rear drums and blow everything off for me too. 550B? I thought they only handled...................... Sorry, 'offered' that service in massage parlors?? Well, when she asked to see my pads, I thought she said 'nads... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transam Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 I have my tires rotated and checked for balance and alignmnet every 10,000 km (costs THB550) and just look at the brakes while it's on the lift. Once I start looking, they pull the rear drums and blow everything off for me too. 550B? I thought they only handled...................... Sorry, 'offered' that service in massage parlors?? Well, when she asked to see my pads, I thought she said 'nads... , must have been Cock Pit. .................. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarpSpeed Posted September 20, 2012 Share Posted September 20, 2012 I have my tires rotated and checked for balance and alignmnet every 10,000 km (costs THB550) and just look at the brakes while it's on the lift. Once I start looking, they pull the rear drums and blow everything off for me too. 550B? I thought they only handled...................... Sorry, 'offered' that service in massage parlors?? Well, when she asked to see my pads, I thought she said 'nads... , must have been Cock Pit. .................. Unless it's short time, in which case could be B-Quik?? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaicruze Posted September 20, 2012 Author Share Posted September 20, 2012 (edited) If I remember correctly, the OP only got about 20,000km out of the OEM set. If he does not change his driving habits, he should not expect to do much better than that. It's not a foot-rest! I don't think the pads were worn out. They were just rattling and making noises. I just decided to put brand name ones. On my City I changed the pads twice in almost 6 years. Either once or twice. I forgot. But they lasted a long time. I do mostly highway driving and when I brake I don't brake hard. It's not a race car, just a Chevy. Edited September 20, 2012 by thaicruze Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hedonist44 Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 (edited) normally the brake pads dont wear to "metal on metal". There is a wear indicator which touches the disc when enough pad is worn away and makes a squealing noise. But you can go past this and go to metal Is that a flinstones car you're driving?For the past 30 years or so,when the indicator touches the disk, there is a warning light on the dashboard instead of a squealing noise. Noooooooooooooooooooooo, no warning light on my Vigo. Owners must not be deaf. No warning light on a Fortuner either. I got 140,000 kms before I "heard" my pads telling me to change them. Edited September 21, 2012 by hedonist44 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mogandave Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 If I remember correctly, the OP only got about 20,000km out of the OEM set. If he does not change his driving habits, he should not expect to do much better than that. It's not a foot-rest! I don't think the pads were worn out. They were just rattling and making noises. I just decided to put brand name ones. On my City I changed the pads twice in almost 6 years. Either once or twice. I forgot. But they lasted a long time. I do mostly highway driving and when I brake I don't brake hard. It's not a race car, just a Chevy. Honeywell makes Bendix brake pads as well as a lot (most?) OEM pads. Also, OEM pads often perform as well (or better) than after market pads, as braking distance is an important safety feature a lot of people look at. If GM could get significantly better performance using a different pad at a reasonable price, they would go with it. Semi metallic pads like you put on the Cruise stop well, but they are dirty and wear relatively quickly. I think the new ceramic pads are the best all-around performers. Keep in mind, smaller pads wear exponentially faster than larger pads. Generally, the best way to improve brake performance is upgrading to larger pads. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anon999 Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 If I remember correctly, the OP only got about 20,000km out of the OEM set. If he does not change his driving habits, he should not expect to do much better than that. It's not a foot-rest! I don't think the pads were worn out. They were just rattling and making noises. I just decided to put brand name ones. On my City I changed the pads twice in almost 6 years. Either once or twice. I forgot. But they lasted a long time. I do mostly highway driving and when I brake I don't brake hard. It's not a race car, just a Chevy. Honeywell makes Bendix brake pads as well as a lot (most?) OEM pads. Also, OEM pads often perform as well (or better) than after market pads, as braking distance is an important safety feature a lot of people look at. If GM could get significantly better performance using a different pad at a reasonable price, they would go with it. Semi metallic pads like you put on the Cruise stop well, but they are dirty and wear relatively quickly. I think the new ceramic pads are the best all-around performers. Keep in mind, smaller pads wear exponentially faster than larger pads. Generally, the best way to improve brake performance is upgrading to larger pads. . The thickness of the pads are governed by the brake calipers and thickness of the disk. These parameters are set when the vehicle is designed. Consequently all manufacturer and after market replacements for any particular vehicle have the same dimensions. The difference is in the material both in quality and hardness. Obviously the pads designed for town cars, sports cars or competition are going to be significantly different and offer varying rates of wear (life). You can only change the pad size by fitting larger calipers, expensive. Driving style effects pad wear as does the type of pad and good quality after market options can outperform standard manufacturer items both in terms of braking performance and longetivity. However, cheap replacements will of course provide the opposite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marstons Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 When ever the guy who is servicing the car says they need changing. Last week as it happens 53,000kms 7 years original Toyota pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transam Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 When ever the guy who is servicing the car says they need changing. Last week as it happens 53,000kms 7 years original Toyota pads. My Vigo, 5 years 62000km, half worn You can get better braking from using a ''soft'' compound pad material but they wear out quicker. Calipers, depending on design, can have from 1 to 6 pistons that push on the pads. When the pads are new the pistons just show from their bores in the caliper. As the pads wear the pistons move out of their bores taking up new positions. Even if you wear the pads to the metal, don't worry, the pistons will not pop out. When new pads are fitted the pistons are forced back into the caliper by the mechanic. Be warned that pad metal contact with the disc/rotor, will tear them up and will have to be replaced. My experience has been 2 sets of pads to one set of discs/rotors or reface if your lucky as only a small amount can be removed as piston popping can happen. Just a bit of info for those who want to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mogandave Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 If I remember correctly, the OP only got about 20,000km out of the OEM set. If he does not change his driving habits, he should not expect to do much better than that. It's not a foot-rest! I don't think the pads were worn out. They were just rattling and making noises. I just decided to put brand name ones. On my City I changed the pads twice in almost 6 years. Either once or twice. I forgot. But they lasted a long time. I do mostly highway driving and when I brake I don't brake hard. It's not a race car, just a Chevy. Honeywell makes Bendix brake pads as well as a lot (most?) OEM pads. Also, OEM pads often perform as well (or better) than after market pads, as braking distance is an important safety feature a lot of people look at. If GM could get significantly better performance using a different pad at a reasonable price, they would go with it. Semi metallic pads like you put on the Cruise stop well, but they are dirty and wear relatively quickly. I think the new ceramic pads are the best all-around performers. Keep in mind, smaller pads wear exponentially faster than larger pads. Generally, the best way to improve brake performance is upgrading to larger pads. . The thickness of the pads are governed by the brake calipers and thickness of the disk. These parameters are set when the vehicle is designed. Consequently all manufacturer and after market replacements for any particular vehicle have the same dimensions. The difference is in the material both in quality and hardness. Obviously the pads designed for town cars, sports cars or competition are going to be significantly different and offer varying rates of wear (life). You can only change the pad size by fitting larger calipers, expensive. Driving style effects pad wear as does the type of pad and good quality after market options can outperform standard manufacturer items both in terms of braking performance and longetivity. However, cheap replacements will of course provide the opposite. Yes, I know it is expensive to go with bigger pads, but it is without question the BEST way to improve brake performance. I am not sure what you mean by quality and hardness, but the higher the pad’s coefficient of friction, the better they will stop. That said, stopping power and wear are something of a tradeoff, and materials that stop better generally wear faster. I did not mean to imply that it was not possible to find good quality, aftermarket pads that will outperform OEM pads, particularly when the driver buys pads tailored to their driving habits. It is not difficult to find pads that stop significantly better, and not difficult to find pads that wear significantly better, but it is difficult to find aftermarket pads that will both stop and wear significantly better than OEM pads. And to be clear, most guys really have no way of objectively gauging overall performance anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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