canuckamuck Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 There was an older thread about this topic but it is archived so I have started this one to see if there is some new ideas out there. I have 4 3x4 meter tanks that were originally for frogs, but I have modified them recently and have been experimenting with filtration. I used to be an aquarium addict, so I have used my experience from those days and moved to a larger scale. I have been working with two filter types. I call one a column filter, because it is a column made of cement rings. And the other I call a chamber filter because it involves a series of chambers. Both of them depend on water flow and natural nitrobacters to clean the water of waste material. The chamber filter is the most complicated and it requires some maintenance. Here are some pics The basic layout A photo showing the chamber filter, and a column filter behind it An overhead shot Continued Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canuckamuck Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 The second type is the column filter and it is maintenance free. Here is a shot from the top which shows the essential media (Scotch Brite) or scrubby pads. The scrubby pads are the best media to collect and multply nitrobacters that eat nitrites and convert them into less harmful nitrates (or the other way around, I get confused). The column filter has an elevated section full of scrubby pads that sit on top of a vortex of water. The vortex helps separate larger solids and deposits them on the bottom where they disolve. The lighter and smaller particles are pushed through the scrubby pad section, where millions of nitrobacters have a continual feast. The water than goes back to the tank by gravity. the scrubby pads are kept close to the surface where Thailand's burning sunlight joins in the effort to break down waste and maximize beneficial organisms. Both the column filter and the chamber filter have a scrubby section at the final stage. Continued Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canuckamuck Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 Tank design: Something that is also essential in keeping healthy water is having a current, Recent thinking is that the more current the better, and the more biomass you can maintain in a volume of water. To this end, I have converted on of my tanks into a super effiecient raceway tank. Here is a pic. This tank has a column filter and the water is returned by gravity to surface level in a 3" pipe, and then it is jetted to 1" to create faster flow. Believe it or not, this gravity powered stream propels the entire mass of water through the raceway at an average time of 4 minutes for an 18 meter trip. This means my entire tank has current, and the fish really love it. I have recently added a small power head to give a little boost at the halfway point. Here are some of my Tab Tim babies. All my future tanks will be some type of raceway. But I am inclined now to make circular tanks as the flow is much more natural in a circle. Any comments? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayci Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Looks nice. Where do you get the scrubby pads from. Can you post a picture of the packaging? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canuckamuck Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 I was getting the scrubby pads from Macro, they have one type that is much cheaper than the others, I think 69 baht a pack (I think six packs of three in a bulk package). They are poor quality scrubbys (meaning they don't work well if you actually use them for scrubbing) but they work well for bacteria. Sorry don't remember the brand. However, I recently discovered a Thai plastic store up by Mae Sai that had remnants of scrubby pad rolls at a a greatly reduced price. It Was a big roll for about 100 baht, equal to many 69 baht packs. It was the kind of shop that sells all the cheap stuff like plastic baskets and odds and ends. I would look at a place like that first. You really need to use a lot if you are going to use this method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David48 Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Hope you don't mind canuckamuck ... I added the link to your thread in the Fish Farm 201 thread here Great work BTW ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canuckamuck Posted March 13, 2013 Author Share Posted March 13, 2013 No problem David. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedBullHorn Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 Great set up canuckamuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pacificperson Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 A simple suggestion, put an air venturi on the power head and on the return pipe. They will help increase your oxygen levels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdmtdm Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 A simple suggestion, put an air venturi on the power head and on the return pipe. They will help increase your oxygen levels. can u expand on that , i am keen to see what u mean by this ..a diagram or link if u can cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pacificperson Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 The diagram is from Wikipedia. Basically, its a small air tube perpendicular to the flow of water. Most aquarium powerheads have a rubber tube that injects air into the water being pumped. It makes lots of small bubbles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canuckamuck Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share Posted March 14, 2013 You are right about the venturi. I have been meaning to hook them up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjefrie Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 Simple "T" venturi...cheap and effective Simple "T" venturi demo Don't make the fish pissed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray23 Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 Thanks really appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjefrie Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 Commercial venturiMuy buen par todos DIY commercial venturi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hopdafru Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 I'm assuming you're growing fish... You could add growbeds which will filter the water and give you plenty of good veggies and fruit - ie aquaponics system. I heard at least a couple people are doing this successfully in thailand. Given the size of your tanks you would need a pretty big growing surface or use less fish / tanks. You can look up University of Virgin Islands who has a pretty effective system (can be scaled down) and plenty of stuff on youtube for home aquaponics. sok dee! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canuckamuck Posted March 18, 2013 Author Share Posted March 18, 2013 Thanks for that,, yes aquaponics are at the back of mind, I am still trying to optimize a fish tank scheme. Currently I think it would be better to separate out wastes and use them in a closed hydroponics system. That way the fish get the water quality they want, and you can give the plants the nutrients they want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David48 Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 ^^ ozzydom is interested in that concept also and has mentioned is anyone successfully doing it. I've considered same for the Fish and Shrimp Farm to improve the returns and reduce the nitrate load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayci Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 is greenwater culture setup already a aquaponics system? In a greenwater setup it is the phytoplankton that are the plants. I am guessing if you also include growing beds then the vegetables will be competing with the phytoplankton and there would be less available food for the fish. Do I guess wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedBullHorn Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 In a filtered environment, green water culture rarely occure under a roof, unless the water get some form of sunshine throught shade screen other than a tile or zine panel roof top. If shade screen mesh are use, then Schmutzdecke will build up on the wall at a rather super slow pace (or might not happen at all due to the filter). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdmtdm Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 Thanks for that,, yes aquaponics are at the back of mind, I am still trying to optimize a fish tank scheme. Currently I think it would be better to separate out wastes and use them in a closed hydroponics system. That way the fish get the water quality they want, and you can give the plants the nutrients they want. i am currently building a 50,000 litre AP system and 350sqm of covered grow area .. i will be utilizing a drum filter and separate the solids as much as possible , the fish water will be a recirc system ... this will also include quite a substantial bio filter prior to returning to the Fish Tanks ...the grow beds will be supplied from a sump of waste from the fish via the drum filter and tank bottom drains , once the water enters the sump it will not return to the fish system ... i will incorporate NFT and media beds , plus some wicking beds for the veg/ fruit ... any excess will be used on the house gardens close by ..my main focus is on the fish ... You can make a solids filter very cheaply , via a swirl or radial flow , i made a 100 and a 200 litre unit for less than 1200 baht each.., if u rely purely on the grow beds to filter the waste they will clog in no time ....plus by removing the bulk solids first the nitrification process is rapidly increased in the beds .. .attached are a few pics .. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grimleybob Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 Thanks for that,, yes aquaponics are at the back of mind, I am still trying to optimize a fish tank scheme. Currently I think it would be better to separate out wastes and use them in a closed hydroponics system. That way the fish get the water quality they want, and you can give the plants the nutrients they want. Thanks for that,, yes aquaponics are at the back of mind, I am still trying to optimize a fish tank scheme. Currently I think it would be better to separate out wastes and use them in a closed hydroponics system. That way the fish get the water quality they want, and you can give the plants the nutrients they w ant. To create a bio filter you will need growbeds that are double the volume of the fish tanks. This is a minimum requirements. A 4.5m tank 1m deep needs 30 cuM of growing media. 2 x 25m x2m x 300mm. That gives 100 share metres of growing space Thanks for that,, yes aquaponics are at the back of mind, I am still trying to optimize a fish tank scheme. Currently I think it would be better to separate out wastes and use them in a closed hydroponics system. That way the fish get the water quality they want, and you can give the plants the nutrients they want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdmtdm Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 I agree Bob , if you are using only the media beds as the filter then the sizes you quoted are correct , however a way around that is to use a solids filter prior to the beds ie ..swirl , radial flow or as i am doing an auto drum filter ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canuckamuck Posted March 19, 2013 Author Share Posted March 19, 2013 I would love to see a diagram of a drum filter, even if it is just a sketch. I want to know how to make it so the solids are easily recovered, and the mechanism for separating the solids. Is it a vortex? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdmtdm Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 here are a couple of diagrams on the basic operation , simple but effective , also very low power consumption as they can run on auto and stop and start as the filter clogs , gravity water flow from tanks ....polymer construction with stainless mesh drum , mine will do 60 M3 of water per hour .. u can buy much smaller units i believe.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray23 Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 The second type is the column filter and it is maintenance free. Here is a shot from the top which shows the essential media (Scotch Brite) or scrubby pads. The scrubby pads are the best media to collect and multply nitrobacters that eat nitrites and convert them into less harmful nitrates (or the other way around, I get confused). The column filter has an elevated section full of scrubby pads that sit on top of a vortex of water. The vortex helps separate larger solids and deposits them on the bottom where they disolve. The lighter and smaller particles are pushed through the scrubby pad section, where millions of nitrobacters have a continual feast. The water than goes back to the tank by gravity. the scrubby pads are kept close to the surface where Thailand's burning sunlight joins in the effort to break down waste and maximize beneficial organisms. Both the column filter and the chamber filter have a scrubby section at the final stage. Continued Can you tell me where I can down load that plan and print it? Looks like the best solution for our small holding tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canuckamuck Posted March 25, 2013 Author Share Posted March 25, 2013 I didn't download it, I reworked the plans I found on the net describing a maintenance free koi pond filter. I will try to find those for you, but it will have to be tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canuckamuck Posted March 25, 2013 Author Share Posted March 25, 2013 here are a couple of diagrams on the basic operation , simple but effective , also very low power consumption as they can run on auto and stop and start as the filter clogs , gravity water flow from tanks ....polymer construction with stainless mesh drum , mine will do 60 M3 of water per hour .. u can buy much smaller units i believe.... download.jpgDFP-60 drawing.jpg Sorry I forgot to respond to this. It seems like the sort of thing I was looking for, but I can't quite work out the mechanics by the diagram. It would be easier f I could read the print on the B&W image. Can you point me to a web site where I can learn more? Thanks for uploading the images. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray23 Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 here are a couple of diagrams on the basic operation , simple but effective , also very low power consumption as they can run on auto and stop and start as the filter clogs , gravity water flow from tanks ....polymer construction with stainless mesh drum , mine will do 60 M3 of water per hour .. u can buy much smaller units i believe.... download.jpgDFP-60 drawing.jpg Sorry I forgot to respond to this. It seems like the sort of thing I was looking for, but I can't quite work out the mechanics by the diagram. It would be easier f I could read the print on the B&W image. Can you point me to a web site where I can learn more? Thanks for uploading the images. I think I havve the idea top pipe down the middle to a tee at the bottom two 90's at an offset? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canuckamuck Posted March 26, 2013 Author Share Posted March 26, 2013 here are a couple of diagrams on the basic operation , simple but effective , also very low power consumption as they can run on auto and stop and start as the filter clogs , gravity water flow from tanks ....polymer construction with stainless mesh drum , mine will do 60 M3 of water per hour .. u can buy much smaller units i believe.... download.jpgDFP-60 drawing.jpg Sorry I forgot to respond to this. It seems like the sort of thing I was looking for, but I can't quite work out the mechanics by the diagram. It would be easier f I could read the print on the B&W image. Can you point me to a web site where I can learn more? Thanks for uploading the images. I think I havve the idea top pipe down the middle to a tee at the bottom two 90's at an offset? Hi Ray, yes that is right, but in this post I was responding here to CDMTDM's earlier post where he posted images for a drum filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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