Bathroom Hot Water Heater Problem ... any clues?

[Crossy]

Our heaters have the lumps filter built in to the pipe sealing washer:

Image00050.jpg

Just pop off the inlet hose and have a look

Which is the inlet hose. There are two hoses, right and left.

Pop off? What does that mean? Screw off by hand? So if there is a filter there, clogged.

Then what?

You guys talk as if you're talking to someone who knows anything. Geez!

1. Turn off the water and electricity.
2. Unscrew the inlet hose (usually the one on the right) by turning the nut anti-clockwise with a spanner (you will be pushing the spanner right-to-left).
3. If the filter is like the one I showed it will pop out of the hose easily.
4. Clean it
5. Reverse the disassembly procedure.
6. Call the plumber to fix the leaks.

[bunnydrops]

Check with the neighbors. See if anyone else is having problems.

[Jingthing]

1. Call the plumber to fix the leaks.

Thanks.

Why are you mentioning leaks?

You're assuming I have leaks?

Edited June 19, 2013 by Jingthing

[Crossy]

1. Call the plumber to fix the leaks.

Thanks.

Why are you mentioning leaks?

You're assuming I have leaks?

You may have afterwards

[Tywais]

1. Call the plumber to fix the leaks.

Perhaps just get the handyman over and disconnect all the tubing and have a look at all of them including the shutoff valves that could get clogged. Flush all the hoses and valves though will need another source of water as yours will hopefully be shut off. Make sure he has a supply of plumbers tape when he puts it back together, quite cheap.

[David48]

It's been a slow night at home and I've had a punt at how it's all plumbed.

JT.doc

I all depends on the fact that I have the inlet pipe correct.

Thoughts?

Remember I'm a sparkie and not a plumber!

EDIt ... if I do have it correct ... that's a really weird valve used to control the hot water.

Is that usual in Thailand that style?

Edited June 19, 2013 by David48

[Jingthing]

Silly me. At the shower, as you would expect, the water pressure also low when turned to HOT position.

[Jingthing]

It's been a slow night at home and I've had a punt at how it's all plumbed.

JT.doc

I all depends on the fact that I have the inlet pipe correct.

Thoughts?

Remember I'm a sparkie and not a plumber!

Thanks. I can't read that doc though. What format is it?

[Tywais]

It's been a slow night at home and I've had a punt at how it's all plumbed.

JT.doc

I all depends on the fact that I have the inlet pipe correct.

Thoughts?

Remember I'm a sparkie and not a plumber!

Thanks. I can't read that doc though. What format is it?

MS Word. Here it is in pdf format. JT.pdf

[David48]

It's been a slow night at home and I've had a punt at how it's all plumbed.

JT.doc

I all depends on the fact that I have the inlet pipe correct.

Thoughts?

Remember I'm a sparkie and not a plumber!

Thanks. I can't read that doc though. What format is it?

MS Word. Here it is in pdf format. JT.pdf

Thanks ... but am I correct.

I don't wish to give JT a bum steer.

.

[IMHO]

Our heaters have the lumps filter built in to the pipe sealing washer:

Image00050.jpg

Just pop off the inlet hose and have a look

Which is the inlet hose. There are two hoses, right and left.

Pop off? What does that mean? Screw off by hand? So if there is a filter there, clogged.

Then what?

You guys talk as if you're talking to someone who knows anything. Geez!

Use an adjustable spanner or something like this. Clean the filter with water or replace if broken. Put together. Sit back and open beverage of your choice

Pay attention to the order though - beverage of choice was last, not first, or indeed hours before

[Crossy]

Thanks ... but am I correct.

I don't wish to give JT a bum steer.

.

I reckon so.

JT is the water flow OK when from the cold tap?

[JetsetBkk]

<snip>

I don't wish to give JT a bum steer.

I think it's possible that you just need someone to blow out your pipes. A lot of crud can build up over time or even instantly if someone has broken and then repaired a street water main.

I had to fill and empty my washing machine about 8 or 10 times to get rid of all the brown muck that came after the water main was repaired - had to remove the small metal gauze filter first, of course. I also had to flush the loos about a dozen times and leave the shower and basin taps running for ages. Eventually the water came crystal clear.

.

Edit: Resized image

Edited June 19, 2013 by JetsetBkk

[Pacificperson]

JT, Since all of your water is is originating from one pipe, the pressure should be same for the hot and cold sides of both your sink and shower. Try comparing the pressure for pure hot and cold flows on both. If the hot pressure is less for both, then the problem is either the hot water heater or its supply line.

When your plumber comes ask him to first close the valve at the bottom of the cold water splitter and disconnect the cold water line at the water heater. The filter should be here. Inspect it. Then have him put the end of the hose in a bucket and open the valve. If the pressure is OK, then the problem is in the water heater. You can go ahead and replace it.

If you want to be sure, reconnect the supply line to the water heater and disconnect the outlet hose at the valve with blue dot. If the heater is clogged up, this pressure will be less than it was on the inlet side.

Edited June 19, 2013 by Pacificperson

[bankruatsteve]

I would also inspect that "Hot water tap and outlet ...". That looks similar to some I have (had) and find them to be crap - corroding inside and blocking off almost all water flow.

[Jingthing]

JT, Since all of your water is is originating from one pipe, the pressure should be same for the hot and cold sides of both your sink and shower. Try comparing the pressure for pure hot and cold flows on both. If the hot pressure is less for both, then the problem is either the hot water heater or its supply line.

When your plumber comes ask him to first close the valve at the bottom of the cold water splitter and disconnect the cold water line at the water heater. The filter should be here. Inspect it. Then have him put the end of the hose in a bucket and open the valve. If the pressure is OK, then the problem is in the water heater. You can go ahead and replace it.

If you want to be sure, reconnect the supply line to the water heater and disconnect the outlet hose at the valve with blue dot. If the heater is clogged up, this pressure will be less than it was on the inlet side.

It sounds like you are quite knowledgeable. I don't quite understand all that and the chances of me communicating that well to a Thai handyman are pretty remote, but I appreciate the information.

On the water pressure question, the water pressure is DEFINITELY much less when I turn the faucets (sink and shower) to the hot position.

I guess one dumb and expensive tactic is to just go with the new heater and see what happens. Then if its something else and I can fix that later, at least I'll have an updated machine. If I did that and it was still a water flow problem, could that damage the new heater?

Edited June 19, 2013 by Jingthing

[Tywais]

If I did that and it was still a water flow problem, could that damage the new heater?

No, the water flow switch will protect the heater from coming on and overheating if the flow is too low. Still, removing all the tubes and valves and cleaning them out is a straightforward task for the handyman and would be the 1st thing I do. You have a nice photograph now to be able to put it back together.

[sotsira]

Before you spend money on a new heater, you could simply have a blockage

at the outlet of the faucet and shower head.

You need to unscrew both shower head and faucet outlet spout,

then turn them on to see if the flow is sufficient to turn the heater on.

To clarify,

The faucet outlet spout is the part of the faucet where the water runs out from,

it has a metal or plastic gauze insert, this can be unscrewed with an adjustable spanner.

Their are two flat edges on this removable part for the spanner to grip on.

The shower heads are always just unscrewed anticlockwise either off your hose or

off your metal pipe, depending which you have.

[sotsira]

This video shows what i was referring to regarding the sink faucet spout

could be clogged up in your case reducing the water flow.

The part that you need to remove and check is actually called the aerator as

you will see in the video.

The next video shows how to remove and refit a fixed shower head:

The last video shows how to remove and refit a shower head on a hose:

Edited June 19, 2013 by sotsira

[cheeryble]

If you've had a bad rusty/muddy water problem before take the opportunity not just to clean the little filter likely in the right hand heater connection ( by blasting cold water thru it backwards to original direction).... But also take apart the shower head and anything else whcih doesn't run nicely.

As to the poster telling you the hot and cold pressure should be the same it's unlikely as the element tubes in the heater are kinda narrow and may be sclerotic and will reduce the hot pressure a wee bit.

Let's hope you fix it before 500 posts......

Cheeryble (ex Corgi registered woof woof)

Edited June 19, 2013 by cheeryble

[Jingthing]

That doesn't make sense to me. If there was a blockage that close to the water coming out why is the cold water great pressure but when turned to HOT position, much less flow. If the blockage was at the faucet, ALL the pressure would be low, yes?

[cheeryble]

If you are saying the switch on the front of the heater can reduce the pressure well that's the fifth dimension because that switch only cuts in more of the element surrounding the heater internal pipe and has no direct effect on water flow.

Edited June 19, 2013 by cheeryble

[sotsira]

That doesn't make sense to me. If there was a blockage that close to the water coming out why is the cold water great pressure but when turned to HOT position, much less flow. If the blockage was at the faucet, ALL the pressure would be low, yes?

The cold pressure is always higher than the hot as it doesn't travel through the water heater

so this could be deceiving to the eye.

The brown murky water water that you mentioned earlier in the thread would certainly

have ended up clogging at the outlet points as these have very small outlet holes.

So being that it's a very easy and quick task to carry out if i were you it would be the first

test to do.

Once you remove them turn on the hot tap and see if the water heater switches on.

Then same again with the shower head.

The

[doglover]

Being that you live in Jom Tien you must have many a farang capable of this job within walking (or scooter) distance of your condo.

Put out an open invite to any neighbour TV'ers to PM you. I would like to think someone would stop by to help you out for this easy job with the offer of a decent caliber beer or three.

[cheeryble]

Let's try and get it done before Posts overwhelm Google's server banks....

[bunnydrops]

Did you check to see if there is hot water at the washer. Set it to HOT wash and see. If its not. I would think the problem has to be the heater or at the point where the cold splits out to the heater since the pressure at that point is high on the cold side.

[Jingthing]

Did you check to see if there is hot water at the washer. Set it to HOT wash and see. If its not. I would think the problem has to be the heater or at the point where the cold splits out to the heater since the pressure at that point is high on the cold side.

I agree a good clue. But I'm still confused. I did a cold load today and it was cold. Yesterday I did a hot load and the clothes felt warm for a few seconds but the pipes I felt didn't feel hot at all. There is no indicator light on the heater on the outside of on or off.

[Jingthing]

That doesn't make sense to me. If there was a blockage that close to the water coming out why is the cold water great pressure but when turned to HOT position, much less flow. If the blockage was at the faucet, ALL the pressure would be low, yes?

The cold pressure is always higher than the hot as it doesn't travel through the water heater

so this could be deceiving to the eye.

The brown murky water water that you mentioned earlier in the thread would certainly

have ended up clogging at the outlet points as these have very small outlet holes.

So being that it's a very easy and quick task to carry out if i were you it would be the first

test to do.

Once you remove them turn on the hot tap and see if the water heater switches on.

Then same again with the shower head.

The

I checked the shower as you suggested. Definitely not that far down the line. But thanks!

[bankruatsteve]

Did you check to see if there is hot water at the washer. Set it to HOT wash and see. If its not. I would think the problem has to be the heater or at the point where the cold splits out to the heater since the pressure at that point is high on the cold side.

I agree a good clue. But I'm still confused. I did a cold load today and it was cold. Yesterday I did a hot load and the clothes felt warm for a few seconds but the pipes I felt didn't feel hot at all. There is no indicator light on the heater on the outside of on or off.

Uhm... a lot of washer brands will heat their own water. IE: not need hot water input. Again, I would check that cut-off valve for the hot water out.

[Litlos]

Oh well my turn to confuse the OP. Step one water and power OFF. The galvanised tee piece in the picture (cold water coming through the wall red handled valves either side), I had to replace one of these in my BKK condo as the internal galvanising had failed and rust flakes/residue were blocking taps. For starters drop the cold water inlet off the HWS (Hot Water System) and you may well find a screen filter at the inlet to the unit as part of the hose assembly. If there is and it is blocked with sand grit etc is from the water supply, if red or black material is possibly rust, to test see if it sticks to a magnet. If you cannot see a mesh strainer (pictures above) try gently pushing something small up the inlet line to the HWS, a toothpick will do this. If the toothpick hits something very quickly (about 10mm) then try wriggling the toothpick around a bit and see if any debris fall as there may be an inline strainer somewhere as part of the piping, if debris falls keep wriggling the toothpick gently until it stops. If the debris sticks to a magnet then my pick would be the tee piece as the source and time to call in the condo handy man to get it replaced.

If it was me I would as step one check everything and reverse flush the HWS, if I was away and the TGF was telling me it would either be A/ Bad luck and cold showers (Isaan girl so no prob) or B/ Call in the condo handy man and tip him 200Baht. We are lucky and have semi reasonable handyman available so I have found out as things always go wrong when I am not there, though they do not always look for the source of the problem, they just fix what they see. Hence why I have mentioned the galvanised tee as a possible source of the problem so if you see the tell tale signs you can get that replaced.

Cheers