Honda cbr650 2014

[dave_boo]

Really? You are getting stingy on oil?

This is one of the most important components to keep your engine running.

Why don't you just go to Tesco and get some palm oil? Much cheaper.

Ummmm palm oil or a standard oil that meets manufacturer requirements .. standard oil me thinks.

It's not a racing engine the standard oil is perfectly adequate. The oil companies claim semi is better than regular and that synthetic is better than semi. But that is generally for longer service intervals etc.

If your going to change the oil regularly then standard engine oil that meets manufacturers recommendations is fine!

[casualbiker]

Really? You are getting stingy on oil?

This is one of the most important components to keep your engine running.

Why don't you just go to Tesco and get some palm oil? Much cheaper.

Ummmm palm oil or a standard oil that meets manufacturer requirements .. standard oil me thinks.

It's not a racing engine the standard oil is perfectly adequate. The oil companies claim semi is better than regular and that synthetic is better than semi. But that is generally for longer service intervals etc.

If your going to change the oil regularly then standard engine oil that meets manufacturers recommendations is fine!

10430473_882722095100927_4091805001487801478_n.jpg

Huh?

[dave_boo]

Huh?

You acknowledged the superiority of the semi/fully synthetic and then recommend that people really shouldn't use it.

The price difference is negligible and the added peace of mind seems worth it...but you seem determined that unless longer intervals or racing are the only reasons that semi/fully synthetic should be used.

You do realise that Honda recommends oil changes at 1,000; 12,000; 24,000; 36,000; and every 12,000 km after that? And that riding a bike in BKK can actually heat the engine up more than quick speeds at a track?

[casualbiker]

Huh?

You acknowledged the superiority of the semi/fully synthetic and then recommend that people really shouldn't use it.

The price difference is negligible and the added peace of mind seems worth it...but you seem determined that unless longer intervals or racing are the only reasons that semi/fully synthetic should be used.

You do realise that Honda recommends oil changes at 1,000; 12,000; 24,000; 36,000; and every 12,000 km after that? And that riding a bike in BKK can actually heat the engine up more than quick speeds at a track?

Nope. What I did was state that standard oil meets the manufacturers recommendations. And it's a personal choice IF you want to pay extra for semi or synthetic oils. The reference was mainly because the other poster seemed to imply that regular oil was no better than supermarket palm oil which is patently ridiculous!

A Cbr650 may run smoother and it may last longer on synthetic oil but equally it will be fine on standard oil that meets the manufacturers guidelines. Otherwise the manufacturer would insist on semi or synthetic oils and not allow regular oil!

Edited January 26, 2015 by casualbiker

[papa al]

Huh?

You acknowledged the superiority of the semi/fully synthetic and then recommend that people really shouldn't use it.

The price difference is negligible and the added peace of mind seems worth it...but you seem determined that unless longer intervals or racing are the only reasons that semi/fully synthetic should be used.

You do realise that Honda recommends oil changes at 1,000; 12,000; 24,000; 36,000; and every 12,000 km after that? And that riding a bike in BKK can actually heat the engine up more than quick speeds at a track?

Dave,

Casual biker posts:

"The oil companies claim semi is better than regular and that synthetic is better than semi"

He did not acknowledge the "superiority" himself, except for intervals/racing.

Please do not falsely attribute.

I acknowledge that Mercedes is better, but drive a most excellent Ford.

I generally use plain oil all these 48 years with no problems.

My 1967 GMC farm truck, still strong.

My vehicles have liquid cooling which keeps the engine cool, always.

If your engine is getting too hot in BKK traffic, something is amiss.

Operating a big rig semi, big milage, ==> synthetic.

[They never change the synthetic oil, only filters]

In very cold operating conditions, ==> synthetic for cold starts.

If syn affords you peace of mind, swell.

[dave_boo]

Dave,

Casual biker posts:

"The oil companies claim semi is better than regular and that synthetic is better than semi"

He did not acknowledge the "superiority" himself, except for intervals/racing.

Please do not falsely attribute.

I acknowledge that Mercedes is better, but drive a most excellent Ford.

I generally use plain oil all these 48 years with no problems.

My 1967 GMC farm truck, still strong.

My vehicles have liquid cooling which keeps the engine cool, always.

If your engine is getting too hot in BKK traffic, something is amiss.

Operating a big rig semi, big milage, ==> synthetic.

[They never change the synthetic oil, only filters]

In very cold operating conditions, ==> synthetic for cold starts.

If syn affords you peace of mind, swell.

We can drag this thread down with semantics, but when he posted

It's not a racing engine the standard oil is perfectly adequate.

That implies that there is something more than adequate, which he apparently (at least to me) classifies semi/fully synthetic as. Add in that he did not care to correct me as you took it upon yourself to do; I believe my observation that he acknowledges the superiority of synthetic oil stands. I will of course apologise profusely if he wants to set the record straight that I was falsely attributing a belief to him.

[dave_boo]

Nope. What I did was state that standard oil meets the manufacturers recommendations. And it's a personal choice IF you want to pay extra for semi or synthetic oils. The reference was mainly because the other poster seemed to imply that regular oil was no better than supermarket palm oil which is patently ridiculous!

A Cbr650 may run smoother and it may last longer on synthetic oil but equally it will be fine on standard oil that meets the manufacturers guidelines. Otherwise the manufacturer would insist on semi or synthetic oils and not allow regular oil!

Yeah, the palm oil remark was far out there. But I just expected that you wouldn't apparently categorically dismiss semi/fully synthetic oil out of hand for street bikes.

**edit**

Manufacturers aren't infallible; there seems to be a nasty trend towards "our vehicle is the cheapest to own/maintain". Much the same as the vehicles being built just well enough to prevent lawsuits, I think that maintenance schedules are being subjected to the same pressures.

Edited January 26, 2015 by dave_boo

[casualbiker]

Dave. The oil manufacturers claim benefits in semi and synthetic and I believe them to a point BUT as long as the oil meets manufacturers specifications then there is no problem using it. Manufacturers build their machines and know what is required to run them, some insist on synthetic oil in the machine the Cbr650 is not one of these machines. It is entirely up to the owner to decide what oil to use that meets Honda's specifications be that regular, semi or synthetic.

[WingNut]

Big Wing only has two oil options for this bike. Semi synthetic and fully synthetic. Those are the choices. I will go for semi on the 1,000Km change and then fully synthetic at 6,000Km. They aren't using any regular oil or recommending it so I think that point about using cheap, standard oil is moot. Also, I believe the spec in the owner's manual that specifies oil changes at 1,000; 12,000; 24,000; 36,000; and every 12,000 km after that is assuming you are using fully synthetic. If you are using semi then I think those numbers should be halved.

[casualbiker]

Big Wing only has two oil options for this bike. Semi synthetic and fully synthetic. Those are the choices. I will go for semi on the 1,000Km change and then fully synthetic at 6,000Km. They aren't using any regular oil or recommending it so I think that point about using cheap, standard oil is moot. Also, I believe the spec in the owner's manual that specifies oil changes at 1,000; 12,000; 24,000; 36,000; and every 12,000 km after that is assuming you are using fully synthetic. If you are using semi then I think those numbers should be halved.

I'm really confused, I just downloaded the manual in English from here : https://www.google.co.th/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=mAbGVMuGKor28QWB7oG4Cw&url=http://www.hondampe.com.au/docs/owning_a_honda/owners_manuals/motorcycles/32MJEB000_CBR650F%252014%2520OM.pdf&ved=0CCoQFjAD&usg=AFQjCNGPK01R54DTah07SXxU0wOcXFag3w&sig2=xhVq0JxR6aFqb2jBOPF9FA

And it shows. 0.6 - 1 - 8 - 12 - 18 - 24 etc

[casualbiker]

Screen pics of service page and recommended oil page :

[seedy]

Top line KM

Bottom line miles

[casualbiker]

Top line KM

Bottom line miles

Lol..bad eyes on a mobile phone screen!

[papa al]

Dave,

Casual biker posts:

"The oil companies claim semi is better than regular and that synthetic is better than semi"

He did not acknowledge the "superiority" himself, except for intervals/racing.

Please do not falsely attribute.

I acknowledge that Mercedes is better, but drive a most excellent Ford.

I generally use plain oil all these 48 years with no problems.

My 1967 GMC farm truck, still strong.

My vehicles have liquid cooling which keeps the engine cool, always.

If your engine is getting too hot in BKK traffic, something is amiss.

Operating a big rig semi, big milage, ==> synthetic.

[They never change the synthetic oil, only filters]

In very cold operating conditions, ==> synthetic for cold starts.

If syn affords you peace of mind, swell.

We can drag this thread down with semantics, but when he posted

It's not a racing engine the standard oil is perfectly adequate.

That implies that there is something more than adequate, which he apparently (at least to me) classifies semi/fully synthetic as. Add in that he did not care to correct me as you took it upon yourself to do; I believe my observation that he acknowledges the superiority of synthetic oil stands. I will of course apologise profusely if he wants to set the record straight that I was falsely attributing a belief to him.

Way to go!

Heaven forbid down-dragging with semantics.

Edited January 26, 2015 by papa al

[WingNut]

I put on one of those fake pipes from Power Lube over the weekend. The guy at the shop showed me some dyno charts on how these pipes increase HP. Maybe I actually lost a bit of HP and probably a bit of torque. Frankly, I am not fussed though about power issues. The pipe sounds fantastic and looks good and those were my main objectives. This one is a copy of a mid sized carbon Akrapovic pipe and has a matt finish which also matches the black colored matt trim on the side of the gas tank. He didn't have any glossy finish ones at the moment. I took it out for a ride last night and was surprised how the pipe wasn't hot to the touch at all after I finished riding. I held it right away and it was just a bit warm. That's a good sign I think.

Edited January 27, 2015 by Support
OP request

[WingNut]

Here is a short clip of what the pipe sounds like. I shot the vid before the shop put the sticker on it. I uploaded it from my phone and for some reason the file was flipped from the upload. Sorry about that and don't know how to fix that, but you can still hear what the pipe sounds like. That's the main thing.

trim.6D478C75-E60D-4A6C-ACE5-812D37B0A903.MOV

Edited January 26, 2015 by WingNut

[ll2]

I put on one of those fake pipes from Power Lube over the weekend. The guy at the shop showed me some dyno charts on how these pipes increase HP. Maybe I actually lost a bit of HP and probably a bit of torque. Frankly, I am not fussed though about power issues. The pipe sounds fantastic and looks good and those were my main objectives. This one is a copy of a mid sized carbon Akrapovic pipe and has a matt finish which also matches the black colored matt trim on the side of the gas tank. He didn't have any glossy finish ones at the moment. I took it out for a ride last night and was surprised how the pipe wasn't hot to the touch at all after I finished riding. I held it right away and it was just a bit warm. That's a good sign I think.

it looks cool man, congrats.

the dyno they showed to you was a full system or just the pipe/slip on? what was the gains?

i still want to buy the carbon full system from k speed for 17 k thb but in the meantime very happy with the centralized GP look of the stock pipe.

so still undecided.

[WingNut]

I put on one of those fake pipes from Power Lube over the weekend. The guy at the shop showed me some dyno charts on how these pipes increase HP. Maybe I actually lost a bit of HP and probably a bit of torque. Frankly, I am not fussed though about power issues. The pipe sounds fantastic and looks good and those were my main objectives. This one is a copy of a mid sized carbon Akrapovic pipe and has a matt finish which also matches the black colored matt trim on the side of the gas tank. He didn't have any glossy finish ones at the moment. I took it out for a ride last night and was surprised how the pipe wasn't hot to the touch at all after I finished riding. I held it right away and it was just a bit warm. That's a good sign I think.

it looks cool man, congrats.

the dyno they showed to you was a full system or just the pipe/slip on? what was the gains?

i still want to buy the carbon full system from k speed for 17 k thb but in the meantime very happy with the centralized GP look of the stock pipe.

so still undecided.

Thank you. To be honest, the dyno charts were on another customer's phone who happened to be at the shop at the same as me and he was having one of those eliminator kits added to his bike. So I just looked at the images quickly on his phone and didn't query it much. I think he said that the Dyno charts were done by Big Wing. Each chart had two lines, one red line showing the original power and a second blue line showing the power increase on the chart. The gains looked relatively small to me, but evident enough, although I am not sure any of them would correspond directly to my actual pipe. I think the purpose was just to show me that normally there is not a loss of HP from these slip-ons, but an increase. I was just happy to see there was no loss and that was enough for me so I didn't really study them that closely. For all I know though there may be a bit of actual loss of HP, but I am just a street rider and not a track guy, so it really makes little difference to me.

I am pretty sure though that there is a bit of loss in torque at the low end now with the greater air outflow. I think that always happens. They also suggested changing the air filter to increase air intake in order to match the increase in air outflow, but a friend who is an expert on bikes and does bike tests and reviews for a video channel told me a new air filter would not bring back any lost torque. He told me what you need is increased fuel intake and that the only way to get back any lost torque would be with a Power Commander or some other form of fuel controller to remap the fuel to air ratios. But he also said that with a slip-on, which is kind of what this is, would have minimal loss of torque anyway and that adding a Power Commander would make more sense to invest in if you changed to a full system. The reason I say that the pipe I added is kind of a slip on is because they basically had to cut off a piece of the old pipe to attach the new one and they didn't just simply slip it on.

I guess it is still a slip-on though because we are still using the main part of the original pipe system from Honda, and I assume the piece that was cut off of the original system contains the CAT and all the rest of the baffles that we wanted to get rid of. But I guess when you do any kind of slip-on you end up removing that stuff anyway whether you have to cut it off or just remove it with some screws. The only difference here in the case of this bike is that it can't be removed without cutting it off since the entire exhaust system on this bike is just one piece. In the case of my CBR250R they were able to just unscrew the end of the pipe with all the guts in it (since it isn't just one piece on that bike) and then they were able to attach the slip-on without cutting anything, but the net result is the same I think whether you cut it or are able to more simply remove it some other way.

I am attaching some photos of the piece they removed that I took home with me and you can see where it looks like they used a torch to cut it off. The cut isn't perfectly straight, but perhaps that's the best they can do. It seems they sent my bike somewhere else to have it cut off as the bike was gone for a couple of hours while the piece was cut off. The removal wasn't actually done at the Power Lube shop.

There was another guy at the shop while I was there also asking about putting a full system on his bike because he said he didn't want to cut up his original pipe and wanted to preserve it in case he ever wanted to return the states of the bike to the original system. He said he was concerned that if the modified pipe was too loud that one day he might be forced to replace the original one-piece pipe system. However, the guy at Power Lube said that wouldn't be such a good idea. He said on this bike that removing the original pipe and putting on a full system is a bit complicated because of the cooling system being so close to where the main parts of the pipe are connected to the engine. He suggested that if someone removes the entire original exhaust system, and replaces it with a full system, that it should be left that way as there is a risk of really damaging the bike he felt if you try and reattach the original exhaust system later.

Bear in mind though that if you do change to a full system that you have a greater risk of loss of torque and may need to add a Power Commander to try and get it back. So HP really isn't the only issue and just changing to a slip-on may be the best way to avoid further complications with power as a slip-on may have less impact on torque as I mentioned.

Power Lube can also do full systems though if that is what you really want to do and I think they might have a greater number of options for the end of the pipe itself. So you may want to check out what they have just to compare all the options first. They also have copies of Yoshi and Two Brothers pipes, as well as the Akrapovic copy I went for. His availability of pipes is always changing though I think so it will also depend on what he has in stock at the time.

By the way, the piece they removed is quite heavy compared to what they added in its place. So I am pretty certain there is a bit of drop in net weight to the bike which is good too.

Edited January 27, 2015 by WingNut

[WingNut]

Here is a video which explains in better detail why there may be a need for a Power Commander if you change the exhaust:

I have bought stuff from Revzilla in the states before and they are very good. The Power Commander V is about a $315 item on their web site, but I saw it for a bit less on Amazon.

I am contemplating putting one on anyway. Not just because of the possible boost in torque, but the fact that all bikes are mapped from the manufacturer to run lean for better fuel efficiency, and may reduce performance as a result.

[WingNut]

Here is another video of the same pipe on my bike. I uploaded it to YouTube and now its not sideways. This video also has the sticker on the pipe now.

[dave_boo]

Wingnut....

Unless you are exceeding the amount of variance that the stock ECU can accommodate, you do not need a Power Commander. Granted you can enrinchen, or lean out, through the RPM range, but you will either possibly experience power loss and excessive consumption or run the risk of detonation and overheating (respectively). Atmospheric pressure drops ~5% per 1000 meters; if the ECU can accommodate that and you're talking about less than 4 hp increase for an exhaust on the CBR650 than what's the point?

Your friend is technically correct about the air filter not bring back torque as most stock ones flow fairly well. However, one could tune the length of the intake and get torque back via that.

[ll2]

I put on one of those fake pipes from Power Lube over the weekend. The guy at the shop showed me some dyno charts on how these pipes increase HP. Maybe I actually lost a bit of HP and probably a bit of torque. Frankly, I am not fussed though about power issues. The pipe sounds fantastic and looks good and those were my main objectives. This one is a copy of a mid sized carbon Akrapovic pipe and has a matt finish which also matches the black colored matt trim on the side of the gas tank. He didn't have any glossy finish ones at the moment. I took it out for a ride last night and was surprised how the pipe wasn't hot to the touch at all after I finished riding. I held it right away and it was just a bit warm. That's a good sign I think.

it looks cool man, congrats.

the dyno they showed to you was a full system or just the pipe/slip on? what was the gains?

i still want to buy the carbon full system from k speed for 17 k thb but in the meantime very happy with the centralized GP look of the stock pipe.

so still undecided.

Thank you. To be honest, the dyno charts were on another customer's phone who happened to be at the shop at the same as me and he was having one of those eliminator kits added to his bike. So I just looked at the images quickly on his phone and didn't query it much. I think he said that the Dyno charts were done by Big Wing. Each chart had two lines, one red line showing the original power and a second blue line showing the power increase on the chart. The gains looked relatively small to me, but evident enough, although I am not sure any of them would correspond directly to my actual pipe. I think the purpose was just to show me that normally there is not a loss of HP from these slip-ons, but an increase. I was just happy to see there was no loss and that was enough for me so I didn't really study them that closely. For all I know though there may be a bit of actual loss of HP, but I am just a street rider and not a track guy, so it really makes little difference to me.

I am pretty sure though that there is a bit of loss in torque at the low end now with the greater air outflow. I think that always happens. They also suggested changing the air filter to increase air intake in order to match the increase in air outflow, but a friend who is an expert on bikes and does bike tests and reviews for a video channel told me a new air filter would not bring back any lost torque. He told me what you need is increased fuel intake and that the only way to get back any lost torque would be with a Power Commander or some other form of fuel controller to remap the fuel to air ratios. But he also said that with a slip-on, which is kind of what this is, would have minimal loss of torque anyway and that adding a Power Commander would make more sense to invest in if you changed to a full system. The reason I say that the pipe I added is kind of a slip on is because they basically had to cut off a piece of the old pipe to attach the new one and they didn't just simply slip it on.

I guess it is still a slip-on though because we are still using the main part of the original pipe system from Honda, and I assume the piece that was cut off of the original system contains the CAT and all the rest of the baffles that we wanted to get rid of. But I guess when you do any kind of slip-on you end up removing that stuff anyway whether you have to cut it off or just remove it with some screws. The only difference here in the case of this bike is that it can't be removed without cutting it off since the entire exhaust system on this bike is just one piece. In the case of my CBR250R they were able to just unscrew the end of the pipe with all the guts in it (since it isn't just one piece on that bike) and then they were able to attach the slip-on without cutting anything, but the net result is the same I think whether you cut it or are able to more simply remove it some other way.

I am attaching some photos of the piece they removed that I took home with me and you can see where it looks like they used a torch to cut it off. The cut isn't perfectly straight, but perhaps that's the best they can do. It seems they sent my bike somewhere else to have it cut off as the bike was gone for a couple of hours while the piece was cut off. The removal wasn't actually done at the Power Lube shop.

There was another guy at the shop while I was there also asking about putting a full system on his bike because he said he didn't want to cut up his original pipe and wanted to preserve it in case he ever wanted to return the states of the bike to the original system. He said he was concerned that if the modified pipe was too loud that one day he might be forced to replace the original one-piece pipe system. However, the guy at Power Lube said that wouldn't be such a good idea. He said on this bike that removing the original pipe and putting on a full system is a bit complicated because of the cooling system being so close to where the main parts of the pipe are connected to the engine. He suggested that if someone removes the entire original exhaust system, and replaces it with a full system, that it should be left that way as there is a risk of really damaging the bike he felt if you try and reattach the original exhaust system later.

Bear in mind though that if you do change to a full system that you have a greater risk of loss of torque and may need to add a Power Commander to try and get it back. So HP really isn't the only issue and just changing to a slip-on may be the best way to avoid further complications with power as a slip-on may have less impact on torque as I mentioned.

Power Lube can also do full systems though if that is what you really want to do and I think they might have a greater number of options for the end of the pipe itself. So you may want to check out what they have just to compare all the options first. They also have copies of Yoshi and Two Brothers pipes, as well as the Akrapovic copy I went for. His availability of pipes is always changing though I think so it will also depend on what he has in stock at the time.

By the way, the piece they removed is quite heavy compared to what they added in its place. So I am pretty certain there is a bit of drop in net weight to the bike which is good too.

with a full system, you get better hpand torque and does not lose anything.

k speed full system is also giving like 3 -4 hp tested by bigwing dyno. asked the mechs at bigwing and they confirmed as well.

check arrow full system dyno:

but a slip on like yours might rob some power still just a couple of hps.

reason of that loss is coming fom mid pipes as stock pipe has some special tubing at the end.

so, best is always a full system as they are designed as a whole with headersand mid pipes and exhaust, of course it has to be designed nicely too not like an improvised way.

a dynojet pc5 is somethign not necessary after chaging a pipe but ideal to have one.

dont recommend aftermarket pipe and air filter without pc5 as engine wil run so lean, a lot of stress.

with pc5, air filter and full system, i believe we can get around 10 to 15 percent performance increase for a total price of 900 usd for all. not bad.

[papa al]

Don't the cops mess with you when you do these exhaust system mods?

If you sell the bike and LTO inspects it, will that be a problem?

Do bikes that have been modded or raced depreciate more?

Just wondering.

[casualbiker]

Papa al.. it all depends where you live.. pattaya or phuket. Probably. Some parts of Bkk maybe. Most over places, unlikely!

Keep the old parts to put back on!

[guzzi850m2]

Papa al.. it all depends where you live.. pattaya or phuket. Probably. Some parts of Bkk maybe. Most over places, unlikely!

Keep the old parts to put back on!

Yep, if you live in Pattaya it's not worth riding around with a loud exhaust, unless you don't mind paying 1000 each time you are stopped by the police.

For me it's not worth modifying the engine, but that's me.

[ll2]

Don't the cops mess with you when you do these exhaust system mods?

If you sell the bike and LTO inspects it, will that be a problem?

Do bikes that have been modded or raced depreciate more?

Just wondering.

In Bangkok, no problems.

But problem in Hua Hin and Pattaya.

Still, they fine you if your pipe is very loud. They dont fine you for not so loud aftermarket pipes.

You just put the stock back when selling it and for inspection, Bigwing or some traffic red tape shops do it for me and they do not need to show the bike.

so, dont recommend throwing or trashing or modifying the stock pipe.

[WingNut]

I was looking in the English language owner's manual for this bike that I downloaded from the internet and it said that you can change the setting from kilometers per hour to miles per hour on the instrument panel, and the same for the odometer settings, if you want to. But I went through the menu settings on the bike and it doesn't have that option from what I can see. So my guess is that they have disabled this option in the software for these bikes being sold in Thailand. Does anyone know anything about this perhaps?

Also, does anyone know of someone in Thailand who can dyno the bike and then flash the ECU with a new custom ECU map? I know this is a pretty recent hack that they started doing in some Western countries and maybe they don't know how to do it yet here. But it seems like this is the method of choice now for many people instead of adding a Power Commander because apparently a reflash of the ECU can also remove and override all that restrictive stuff they put on the bikes for Asia to reduce HP and which is also something a Power Commander can't do so easily. An ECU flash would be ideal since you don't have to add on any extra hardware. Any place to get it done on this bike here?

[Hili]

I was looking in the English language owner's manual for this bike that I downloaded from the internet and it said that you can change the setting from kilometers per hour to miles per hour on the instrument panel, and the same for the odometer settings, if you want to. But I went through the menu settings on the bike and it doesn't have that option from what I can see. So my guess is that they have disabled this option in the software for these bikes being sold in Thailand. Does anyone know anything about this perhaps?

Also, does anyone know of someone in Thailand who can dyno the bike and then flash the ECU with a new custom ECU map? I know this is a pretty recent hack that they started doing in some Western countries and maybe they don't know how to do it yet here. But it seems like this is the method of choice now for many people instead of adding a Power Commander because apparently a reflash of the ECU can also remove and override all that restrictive stuff they put on the bikes for Asia to reduce HP and which is also something a Power Commander can't do so easily. An ECU flash would be ideal since you don't have to add on any extra hardware. Any place to get it done on this bike here?

AP racing doing flashes. But not all ecus are falshable! Not sure about the one from Honda

[ll2]

I was looking in the English language owner's manual for this bike that I downloaded from the internet and it said that you can change the setting from kilometers per hour to miles per hour on the instrument panel, and the same for the odometer settings, if you want to. But I went through the menu settings on the bike and it doesn't have that option from what I can see. So my guess is that they have disabled this option in the software for these bikes being sold in Thailand. Does anyone know anything about this perhaps?

Also, does anyone know of someone in Thailand who can dyno the bike and then flash the ECU with a new custom ECU map? I know this is a pretty recent hack that they started doing in some Western countries and maybe they don't know how to do it yet here. But it seems like this is the method of choice now for many people instead of adding a Power Commander because apparently a reflash of the ECU can also remove and override all that restrictive stuff they put on the bikes for Asia to reduce HP and which is also something a Power Commander can't do so easily. An ECU flash would be ideal since you don't have to add on any extra hardware. Any place to get it done on this bike here?

any links on where did you see an ecu reflash for 650 series honda?

i believe a pc5 is better as you can do unlimited adjustments according to your needs.

and an ecu flash is a one time affair plus it costs as much as a pc5 what i see. and you need to send ti somewhere and need to wait for a month to get it back and cannot ride your bike during this time of course.

[WingNut]

I was looking in the English language owner's manual for this bike that I downloaded from the internet and it said that you can change the setting from kilometers per hour to miles per hour on the instrument panel, and the same for the odometer settings, if you want to. But I went through the menu settings on the bike and it doesn't have that option from what I can see. So my guess is that they have disabled this option in the software for these bikes being sold in Thailand. Does anyone know anything about this perhaps?

Also, does anyone know of someone in Thailand who can dyno the bike and then flash the ECU with a new custom ECU map? I know this is a pretty recent hack that they started doing in some Western countries and maybe they don't know how to do it yet here. But it seems like this is the method of choice now for many people instead of adding a Power Commander because apparently a reflash of the ECU can also remove and override all that restrictive stuff they put on the bikes for Asia to reduce HP and which is also something a Power Commander can't do so easily. An ECU flash would be ideal since you don't have to add on any extra hardware. Any place to get it done on this bike here?

AP racing doing flashes. But not all ecus are falshable! Not sure about the one from Honda

Thanks, yes, AP only does Kawa.