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"I believe the premium diesel has that stuff in the fuel,"

"to clear some gunk." - there seems to be a plethora of non scientific terms on this thread.......assumptions made about diesel engines and the way they burn fuel.

​50 years ao a diesel engine was a very different bird from the things we use today..........the manufacturing tolerance etc are now computer defined and regulated, the fuels used are different and trying to make any assumptions based on a 50 year old LandRover are going to be pretty tangential.

Edited by wilcopops
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"I believe the premium diesel has that stuff in the fuel,"

"to clear some gunk." - there seems to be a plethora of non scientific terms on this thread.......assumptions made about diesel engines and the way they burn fuel.

​50 years ao a diesel engine was a very different bird from the things we use today..........the manufacturing tolerance etc are now computer defined and regulated, the fuels used are different and trying to make any assumptions based on a 50 year old LandRover are going to be pretty tangential.

=======================================

Hmmmmm.

B4 somebody puts his foot too far in his mouth.

It may just pay him to read up a "little" on some of the 4wd.Diesel forums. from the people who are doing what with modern diesels.

ALso why with what and the advantages of.

I've been a diesel tech since 1959 (trade certified with apprenticeship.)

Diesel "Engines" work exactly the same now. as they did in '59. (suck. Squeeze. Bang. fart. repeatedly.

NO Spark involved.

Only the fuel technology and finer tolerances possible with better quality oil refining (with additives)

Mineral two stroke oils DO improve the fuel burn and lubrication of injectors\pumps.

Anyway. Do us a avour, Read up a little first. b4..........

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Remember the days when every now and again you would shove an expensive bottle of injector cleaner in the tank, well I believe the premium diesel has that stuff in the fuel, so no need for anything else. Without doubt my truck is more responsive with the V-Power. You can be sure that if there was no difference I would say so here...smile.png

Way back, we used to mix with #1 Diesel (Kerosene) for a cleaner.

Ofcourse, in winter we had to run it for anti-gelling quality.

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"I believe the premium diesel has that stuff in the fuel,"

"to clear some gunk." - there seems to be a plethora of non scientific terms on this thread.......assumptions made about diesel engines and the way they burn fuel.

​50 years ao a diesel engine was a very different bird from the things we use today..........the manufacturing tolerance etc are now computer defined and regulated, the fuels used are different and trying to make any assumptions based on a 50 year old LandRover are going to be pretty tangential.

This is more true for todays motor oils than diesel fuel.

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Macka17 , can i use fully synthetic 2-stroke oil (Castrol TTS) in with Shell V+ diesel or only mineral 2-stroke oil. Thanks.

Why would you want to add oil to V-Power diesel when it already has a zillion additives.

If you do add oil use mineral, same as diesel, as syn is not.

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Macka17 , can i use fully synthetic 2-stroke oil (Castrol TTS) in with Shell V+ diesel or only mineral 2-stroke oil. Thanks.

Hi.

According to all the experiences reviewed and usage I've had over the yrs.

the ideal oil is Basic. Cheapest MINERAL 2 stroke oils.

the Synthetics don't burn as clean and may have additives that could do damage, long term.

Regarding these "super" diesels.

BP and Shell have had them for a while.

I use only BP for the last ten yrs now. It HAS improved my mileage and towing power with my 6.5 mtr off road 3 ton caravan over the 12 yrs I've had it.

Adding the 2 str oil DOES give you a cleaner burn. smoother engine. When using normal crap half synthesized Aust Diesel fuel.

If you have gone to these finer refined levels fuel.

Probably not so useful.

I'll check up with a mate that works in the lab's at an oil refinery.He put me onto it near 40 yrs ago.

Same as the Metho in fuel tank for upping stale octane, and absorbing moisture to burn through your system.

We've been doing that for over 50 yrs with Outboard motors and stale fuel in tanks.

WITHOUT problems on several long term ownership motors.

I'm not a person who want to know the technical side of things as such. (Couldn't care less)

I'm the practical version. Try it and see.. If it calks. well. "that didn't go too well. did it"

Let;s try it this way.

You should have seen us in early '70's with the Solar first starting..Man. we got through some battery's the first few yrs.

Nowadays. My boat and car battery's last 5 to 8 yrs. Permanently coupled up to solar on car roof and carport for boat batt's.

Get on the 4wd and motor forums. search for diesel\2 stroke oil additives and take note.

It's quite interesting.

OH.

And according to a few mates cruising fulltime with their caravans (6plus mtr heavy tows)

After trying the Caltex super in relation to the BP.

They've nearly ALL gone back to the BP Fuel.

I won't use their oils though.

Castrol Magnatec, Professional 5-40 Full Synth only. for engines. and their others for gear\diff\transfers etc.

Honda Civic. Patrol. D'Max. All run same engine oil.

Edited by macka17
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Thanks guys. reason i asked is i have a few liters of FS Castrol from karting / minimotos.Magnatec is "cracked" oil. Very good. Personal thing , but i like Shell oils and petrols / diesels. Will look at the forums. Thanks again.

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Why add a 2-stroke oil today when these new fuels are much more formulated than even 20 years ago?

Particularly when newer vehicles have quite sensitive and expensive emissions systems that risk being contaminated by unburned byproducts not considered during the R&D process? Plus fuel injection systems operate at much higher PSI than 10 years ago and longer chemical-chain products can actually result in an abrasive action which prematurely wears out pumps and injectors.

Why would a 2-cycle oil offer a more complete combustion? I suppose a thin film coating the cylinder walls could reduce compression loss from older engines; however, with newer engineered engines and scientifically formulated fuels the need for the old "tricks" that we all relied are unnecessary. Its just that old "wrenches" don't give up their tricks easily ;-)

Simple test--go burn a rag saturated with 2-cycle and do the same with a rag saturated with V-Power. Please tell me if you see any difference in residual smoke. OK, I understand that the compression of 40:1 creates a different combustion environment than what I suggest above but why do some people think 2-cycle would burn cleaner? Or is it strictly a claim that adding 2-cycle provides more power?

Thanks

Edited by ClutchClark
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Hi.

Do yourselves a favour if you interested in sounding out this 2 stroke additive and reasons for.

It's quite interesting

Basically. It's to help out the engine running.

Quietens the "bang". Smooths out the actual engine running and does. To some degree. Maybe.

help with power output.

But it's basically to help the mechanicals of the system

The "leanness of fuel system and low ash in fuel. Does your engine no favours.

It's all about emissions and lowering of to suit these Euro spec's.

MFG's have no interest at all about the longevity of YOUR car.

as long as it\they meet the spec's to give them more sales.

My Patrol I had an EGR Blanking plate from day one almost (20k km's)

This car. (D-Max) Diesel.

I bypassed the line from Rocker cover to intake.

Blanking intake to airbox. and adding a 3\4in line from rocker cover down tu under and behind engine.

Draining out onto ground at moment. But have a catchcan.

Which I'll install when my Achilles good again and I can crawl around under there.

Just adding a oil can catcher to line from Rocker cover to Intake box.

cleans up the fuel injection (to a point) and does more to improve fuel system.

As long as you keep it as a full "loop" system. You're legal.

Mine isn't and won't be. as it's open to the air, now. and after I add My type of catchcan.

Only takes a coupla minutes to swap it back to original though if ever needed.

Take out plug and reconnect line from airbox back to it.

I'm still getting the Gasses to keep EGR legal and running.

But lost the oil contaminant that cooks in the system and blocks intake.

Gasses go straight through. But are offset by a chip. S\Steel 3 in exhaust

and soon a Ball Bearing rebuilt exchange Turbo..with the Snorkel in shed.

It goes like a cut snake now on low setting on chip

IE 4 of 9.

This way. you still have a fully operational EGR valve and electronics Pumping the gases into intake.

BUT the oil vapours are bypassing to outside.

and they. Combines with the exh, gasses and heat.

are what cause the blockages in the intake side.

Again.

Read up on it.

The subject is more than we could go on here. with a lot of very experienced people partaking.

That know a lot more than any of us here.

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  • 3 years later...
1 hour ago, nycjoe said:

Things must be slow on TV today I first posted that well over 3 years ago.

As lots know have just brought a new 2.8 tuna. When I picked it up they gave me a token for a full tank. With it came a card from Toyota saying I should use premium diesel when possible.

 

Have done so ever since. Don't know if it's the premium Diesel or it's very low rev's, suspect the latter but the engine oil is as clear as the day it was put in. After 4.45th km. 

Have inserted a snap of dip stick. Yes there is oil on it. Vast improvement from the last 3lt one I had that was black at around 1.000km like treacle at 5th.

 

 

IMGP0035.JPG

Edited by fredob43
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1 minute ago, fredob43 said:

Things must be slow on TV today I first posted that well over 3 years ago.

As lots know have just brought a new 2.8 tuna. When I picked it up they gave me a token for a full tank. With it came a card from Toyota saying I should use premium diesel when possible.

 

Have done so ever since. Don't know if it's the premium Diesel or it's very low rev's, suspect the latter but the engine oil is as clear as the day it was put in. After 4.5th km. 

 

 

IMGP0035.JPG

Never had a diesel with clean oil after oil and filter change..Perhaps  if ones engine is new that may happen..

PS.  Topics here thankfully are repeated for the benefit of new members...:stoner:

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3 minutes ago, transam said:

Never had a diesel with clean oil after oil and filter change..Perhaps  if ones engine is new that may happen..

PS.  Topics here thankfully are repeated for the benefit of new members...:stoner:

If you had waited till I had put in the edit you would have seen that I did say that it wasn't like that on my last 3lt lumps. Even with a new engine it was black after 1.000km.

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Just now, fredob43 said:

If you had waited till I had put in the edit you would have seen that I did say that it wasn't like that on my last 3lt lumps. Even with a new engine it was black after 1.000km.

Then please state an edit maybe forthcoming....:smile:

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3 minutes ago, Ace of Pop said:

And so some can tell us they have a new Truck back door fashion..yawn yawn...:partytime2:

Your post get ruder by the day. Nothing to do with new tank just about oil. But as your a complete fall that put's in trash post 99% of the time I'm not surprised at your post. 

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2 minutes ago, fredob43 said:

Sorry but you never gave me a chance. I posted and you replied within 1 min:

As I said things must be slow.

Off now as I do have a life other than TV.

sarcastic-applause-smiley-emoticon.gif.85b6f3bbe146228b74603cf59e114b12.gif.......Me too....ZZ Top is playing...:stoner:

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Hi.
According to all the experiences reviewed and usage I've had over the yrs.
the ideal oil is Basic. Cheapest MINERAL 2 stroke oils.
the Synthetics don't burn as clean and may have additives that could do damage, long term.
Regarding these "super" diesels.
BP and Shell have had them for a while.
I use only BP for the last ten yrs now. It HAS improved my mileage and towing power with my 6.5 mtr off road 3 ton caravan over the 12 yrs I've had it.
Adding the 2 str oil DOES give you a cleaner burn. smoother engine. When using normal crap half synthesized Aust Diesel fuel.
If you have gone to these finer refined levels fuel.
Probably not so useful.
I'll check up with a mate that works in the lab's at an oil refinery.He put me onto it near 40 yrs ago.
Same as the Metho in fuel tank for upping stale octane, and absorbing moisture to burn through your system.
We've been doing that for over 50 yrs with Outboard motors and stale fuel in tanks.
WITHOUT problems on several long term ownership motors.
I'm not a person who want to know the technical side of things as such. (Couldn't care less)
I'm the practical version. Try it and see.. If it calks. well. "that didn't go too well. did it"
Let;s try it this way.
You should have seen us in early '70's with the Solar first starting..Man. we got through some battery's the first few yrs.
Nowadays. My boat and car battery's last 5 to 8 yrs. Permanently coupled up to solar on car roof and carport for boat batt's.
Get on the 4wd and motor forums. search for diesel\2 stroke oil additives and take note.
It's quite interesting.
OH.
And according to a few mates cruising fulltime with their caravans (6plus mtr heavy tows)
After trying the Caltex super in relation to the BP.
They've nearly ALL gone back to the BP Fuel.
I won't use their oils though.
Castrol Magnatec, Professional 5-40 Full Synth only. for engines. and their others for gear\diff\transfers etc.
Honda Civic. Patrol. D'Max. All run same engine oil.

Certaily dont Honda oils like cat piss to diesel engine oil .


Sent from my iPhone using Thailand Forum - Thaivisa mobile app
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9 minutes ago, eezergood said:

can someone sumamrise this thread? has anyone seen noticeable differences?

When my ride was chipped the Shell premium really did make a difference, now it is not chipped (it broke) l am not sure about it increasing get-up-and-go, but the additives they advertise that is in the fuel to keep stuff clean must be a plus long term..

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1 minute ago, transam said:

When my ride was chipped the Shell premium really did make a difference, now it is not chipped (it broke) l am not sure about it increasing get-up-and-go, but the additives they advertise that is in the fuel to keep stuff clean must be a plus long term..

how about the linked article in an earlier post that it can actually harm the motor

 

https://www.team-bhp.com/tech-stuff/why-you-should-avoid-using-premium-diesel

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3 minutes ago, eezergood said:

how about the linked article in an earlier post that it can actually harm the motor

 

https://www.team-bhp.com/tech-stuff/why-you-should-avoid-using-premium-diesel

I don't take a lot of notice of what one or two blokes write, l would rather read lots, especially what fuel suppliers are saying as they have to stand behind their "claims"..

 

Folk chuck bottles of injector cleaner in the tank, nice little earner for who makes it, does that stuff do any harm...?

 

:stoner:

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2 hours ago, transam said:

I don't take a lot of notice of what one or two blokes write, l would rather read lots, especially what fuel suppliers are saying as they have to stand behind their "claims"..

 

Folk chuck bottles of injector cleaner in the tank, nice little earner for who makes it, does that stuff do any harm...?

 

:stoner:

tend to agree - As i drive the same route every day I will get a good base line & choose the one that gives me the best result for my car. Would be interesting to see if anyone else had any real world feedback 

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1 hour ago, eezergood said:

tend to agree - As i drive the same route every day I will get a good base line & choose the one that gives me the best result for my car. Would be interesting to see if anyone else had any real world feedback 

My last Spivo had a race chip + a few other bit's done to it, and it did make a difference. Quite noticeably. But it did smoke on acceleration if you didn't put it in a low gear first.

 

New ones not been chipped that's because the Torque Converter is much looser than the last one. All I think that would gain is rev's and no initial speed.

 

Having said that I do use the premium stuff mainly because Toyo recommended it.

 

Whether it's any better who knows. As previous post showing dip Stick at 4.5th KM. I did say that it could be fuel or more than likely low revs the new 2.8 does why it's so clean. Could be a bit of both.

 

Over to you technical peeps if it's anything to do with the low 7.7 Compression ratio that the 2.8 has against the old 3lt 9.? I do know that it eradicates the Clanking Diesel sound when starting from cold.

Edited by fredob43
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4 minutes ago, fredob43 said:

My last Spivo had a race chip + a few other bit's done to it, and it did make a difference. Quite noticeably. But it did smoke on acceleration if you didn't put it in a low gear first.

 

New ones not been chipped that's because the Torque Converter is much looser than the last one. All I think that would gain is rev's and no initial speed.

 

Having said that I do use the premium stuff mainly because Toyo recommended it.

 

Whether it's any better who knows. As previous post showing dip Stick at 4.5th KM. I did say that it could be fuel or more than likely low revs the new 2.8 does why it's so clean. Could be a bit of both.

 

Over to you technical peeps if it's anything to do with the low 7.7 Compression ratio that the 2.8 has against the old 3lt 9.? I do know that it eradicates the Clanking Diesel sound when starting from cold.

Your CR is out a tad...

Your clean thing has nothing to do with RPM..

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14 minutes ago, transam said:

Your CR is out a tad...

Your clean thing has nothing to do with RPM..

Don't put a post it that tells me nothing CR what is it then. I do know it's lower that the old 3lt one. If it's nothing to do with RPM got to be fuel??? Sorry I don't think so.

Over to Toyo head office Tec: peeps when I have time to see what they say.

Don't bother I looked it up via google it's 15.6:1 on the new 2.8 producing 450N/M. 17.9:1 on the old 3lt producing 410 N/M.

Thought I read 7.7 in the hand book.

Edited by fredob43
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