I am about to refit an empty shell condo and i was wondering what would be a good inexpensive way to soundproof the ceiling because now it will be easiest before the gypsum goes in.

Usually not needed since the concrete floors absorb most sound

That of course doesn't mean that anyone hammering on walls or floors will not disturb you but everyday sounds usually don't make it through the concrete so soundproofing is not needed

Double layer of gypsum? The 12mm board

Insulation with at least a R6 value and double layer of gypsum (Sheetrock). It's common in multi-story frame construction houses in the US.

Usually not needed since the concrete floors absorb most sound

That of course doesn't mean that anyone hammering on walls or floors will not disturb you but everyday sounds usually don't make it through the concrete so soundproofing is not needed

Concrete will cut out the sound of people talking, TVs etc, but it is useless at reducing impact noise. Noise from people dropping things or moving furniture will transmit through the concrete very well indeed, as will footsteps of the flat-footed or running children etc. So if you are unlucky enough to have someone like that above you then you will know all about it.

Adding mass does not reduce impact noise. The solution is to not suspend your plasterboard ceiling directly from the concrete above (ie use resilient ceiling hangars), and to attach a layer or two of plasterboard to the concrete with green glue before putting your own false ceiling in place so as to disassociate your ceiling from the vibrations in the concrete.

Spot on kitten.

As you remarked impact sound needs a cavity/ void to absorb the sound so the easiest is to make a suspended ceiling ideally not on hangers from the main floor clad with p/bd and also include a sound deadening quilt.

A void of 250 minimum should do the trick.

Usually not needed since the concrete floors absorb most sound

That of course doesn't mean that anyone hammering on walls or floors will not disturb you but everyday sounds usually don't make it through the concrete so soundproofing is not needed

Sorry, but probably completely false, at least from my experience.

I am sick of living below others in a condo, hearing them clomp around at all hours.

The only thing you can do is to buy the guys upstairs a foam undermatting to the carpeting that you will also need to buy them.

When they install the carpet, nice and thick made of expensive wool, and thick foam underneath the carpet, then this is about the best you can do.

This will reduce the transmission of sound very significantly, and I thin it is worth it.

Could the technique used in the first video in KittenKong's post be used on brick condo common walls to help mute conversations and music (probably not deep bass thumping)? Are those "resilient mounts" readily available in Thailand?

You know, I REALLY think that you all might not be taking into consideration the most important factor, which is density for sound attentuation.

While it is true that you might want to have a empty space in your solution, this needs to still be the correct design.

What you can have is two layers of high density separated by one layer of a vacuume or just dead air space.

Then,

When the vibrations of sound pass through the first layer, these vibrations cannot easily be trasnmitted to the second high density heavy second layer.

If you just have one of those light weight hanging ceilings above you, then the dead airspace then the 4 inches of concrete which is your ceiling or the floor of the guy above you, then this is NOT ENOUGH.

Also, if you live in a very expensive building, or a high rise, then there will be more and thicker concrete. On these cheap condos here, you probably will have 3.5 to 4 inches. On a major commercial building, you might have 8 inches or more of steel, insulation and concrete.

This is why when you live in one of these, even though you do not have carpeting upstairs, and might have wood floors, which are beautiful, you still rarely hear anything living below, even hear one of those late night trampers.

It depends on the ceiling cavity mate.

Good insulation and double or triple layered gyprock/plasterboard will be about all you can do.

We did a cinema complex a while back(I'm a ceiling/wall tradesman), and to deaden sound on the ceilings we used 4 layers of 16mm plasterboard. So thicker board does work, and more insulation is about it.

You will never be able to really stop the vibration of someone jumping on the floor above you, but the won't hear you as much.

Could the technique used in the first video in KittenKong's post be used on brick condo common walls to help mute conversations and music (probably not deep bass thumping)? Are those "resilient mounts" readily available in Thailand?

Someone must sell those sorts of mounts here. A Google search (in Thai?) would probably do the trick. These people seem to have most of the stuff: http://www.trandar.com/new/?page_id=3456 though I have no idea how good they are as a company.

Talking and TV are airborne noise and have to be treated differently from impact noise (moving furniture, footsteps). Music can be a combination of the two (bass thumping is impact and the "music" is airborne).

It's vital to use the right technique for the problem. There are quite a lot of websites/YouTube videos that discuss this.

It depends on the ceiling cavity mate.

Good insulation and double or triple layered gyprock/plasterboard will be about all you can do.

We did a cinema complex a while back(I'm a ceiling/wall tradesman), and to deaden sound on the ceilings we used 4 layers of 16mm plasterboard. So thicker board does work, and more insulation is about it.

The right adhesive ("green glue" or similar) and the right type of hangars are very important. What you mustn't do is just hang plasterboard from the concrete on regular hangars.

It depends on the ceiling cavity mate.

Good insulation and double or triple layered gyprock/plasterboard will be about all you can do.

We did a cinema complex a while back(I'm a ceiling/wall tradesman), and to deaden sound on the ceilings we used 4 layers of 16mm plasterboard. So thicker board does work, and more insulation is about it.

The right adhesive ("green glue" or similar) and the right type of hangars are very important. What you mustn't do is just hang plasterboard from the concrete on regular hangars.

Glue and hangars has nothing to do with soundproofing.

I' confused by your post.

I think you guys are way over analyzing things here.

It's a simple process really, use decent insulation, upgrade the plasterboard if you really must. You won't ever totally soundproof your upstairs neighbours jumping up and down on their floor.

For that matter you will probably hear the folks either side of you more.

We must have built hundreds of steel framed apartments here in Australia, and not one used anything special like some of the ideas here. Standard 13mm plasterboard, standard insulation, a suspended ceiling frame, and that's about it really. The last apartments we did sold for starting price $500,000AU up to the top 2 penthouses over 9 million, heres the link...http://www.realestate.com.au/property-apartment-sa-adelaide-112389463

. Point is not even they used some special sound proofing walls or ceilings and the architects would have considered all this. It's just how it goes living so close to your neighbours I suppose.

Glue and hangars has nothing to do with soundproofing.

Hmmm.

3M sound proofing material. Two types, rubberized or cotton like. May be expensive but the best

I think you guys are way over analyzing things here.

It's a simple process really, use decent insulation, upgrade the plasterboard if you really must.

We must have built hundreds of steel framed apartments here in Australia, and not one used anything special like some of the ideas here.

. Point is not even they used some special sound proofing walls or ceilings and the architects would have considered all this.

Duly noted, never buy anything from the company you contract to.

I think you guys are way over analyzing things here.

It's a simple process really, use decent insulation, upgrade the plasterboard if you really must.

We must have built hundreds of steel framed apartments here in Australia, and not one used anything special like some of the ideas here.

. Point is not even they used some special sound proofing walls or ceilings and the architects would have considered all this.

Duly noted, never buy anything from the company you contract to.

We just follow architects plans and specs. We have no real say in what they want. There is no perfect sound proofing system out there, and I doubt you would know either.

Stay on the top floor.