Advice required for newbies in Chiang Mai

[hmficc]

Tell Customs the dogs are not here for life. Dogs for life are imports and duty is due. I made this dog mistake.The customs man was nice and accepted that dog was old and not too valuable-$30 was the duty.

[Saan]

Another idea would be to rent a car and do a drive around. You can probably cover the basics of outer Chiang Mai in two days.

I strongly advise against that. It's carnage on the roads here. Lack of traffic signs, bad roads, almost zero enforcement of traffic laws by police, etc. I suggest you have an experienced person drive you around for at least the first few months so you'll have a good idea of what you'll be up against. Use public transportation whenever you can.

If you have driven in Sydney you will be OK. It's not all that bad here. Our American friends find it harder because, for them, it is on the wrong side of the road.

[hmficc]

The entire developed world drive on the right.

Edited October 7, 2014 by onthedarkside
format corrected

[sartoric]

Can I please jump in to this thread because we are also considering retirement to CM ?

I'm interested in thie Expat club Nancy ... We'll be in CM from 26/10 for a week or so, are there any meetings planned around then ?

Many thanks, and sorry to hijack OP.

[camsouth]

Welcome to Chiang Mai. First, and perhaps most important bit of advice... do NOT listen to the advice of one person. There is such a wide range of experiences here, both positive and negative, that you really need to poll several different people and then draw your own conclusions. Australian appliances 'should' work here, although there may be a bit of a language barrier resulting in minor confusion.

Perhaps the best place for you to do that will be at the Expats Club. Now that it is functioning as a well-run organization no longer out for scalps, you can find many, many good people more than willing to give you advice AND help in getting started here in Chiang Mai.

NancyL is the new leader of this organization, and she will be here shortly to give you the details about where and when the group meets.

my wife and i are new here also, been here about a 2 weeks have an apt but still dont know the area that much we no live between maya mall and the tops store. no friends here as of yet so we are in the same as op

[camsouth]

Another idea would be to rent a car and do a drive around. You can probably cover the basics of outer Chiang Mai in two days.

I strongly advise against that. It's carnage on the roads here. Lack of traffic signs, bad roads, almost zero enforcement of traffic laws by police, etc. I suggest you have an experienced person drive you around for at least the first few months so you'll have a good idea of what you'll be up against. Use public transportation whenever you can.

If you have driven in Sydney you will be OK. It's not all that bad here. Our American friends find it harder because, for them, it is on the wrong side of the road.

i agree i am american and been in thailand for while and driving here is hard to get use to. was in patong and used bike. took a while to remember other side of street lol not so much taxis here are cheap and faster way to get around 3 bucks usd any where you want to go in city.

[cloudhopper]

The expat club sounds like a good place to start. Another excellent way is to connect with people with whom you may share a personal practice, special hobby or interest in. As others have said there is a wide range of living possibilities to be had and if the driving/navigating/looking/parking is all a bit much at first a driver can be hired economically as well.

Cars, bikes, houses whatever always try to rent short term first IMO. Good advice re scams too; sometimes the smiling helpful expats are the worst offenders. And some good advice recently dispensed by a poster on another thread - try to have a Thai person mediate for you whenever possible.

The region is diverse and has something good to offer for most people if you are patient. Hope you enjoy it here as we have.

[NancyL]

Can I please jump in to this thread because we are also considering retirement to CM ?

I'm interested in thie Expat club Nancy ... We'll be in CM from 26/10 for a week or so, are there any meetings planned around then ?

Many thanks, and sorry to hijack OP.

Check out the CEC website http://www.chiangmaiexpatsclub.com/ and public Facebook page www.facebook.com/pages/Chiang-Mai-Expats-Club/286223608211692 (you don't have to be a member of Facebook to look at it)

Unfortunately, there aren't any regular meetings of CEC the week of 26/10. The soonest one would be a Coffee Morning on 7 November. However, some of the OGAs -- Outside Group Activities may have meetings. Computer Club normally meets every Tuesday afternoon. Bridge Club seems to meet at least three times a week. Hiking Club may have an outing planned. http://www.chiangmaiexpatsclub.com/activities/ These are small clubs-within-a-club that are run independently, so you'll have to contact each leader if something looks of interest.

Somehow there doesn't seem to be as many expat activities the last week of each month as there is earlier in the month.

Edited October 7, 2014 by NancyL

[NoshowJones]

Another idea would be to rent a car and do a drive around. You can probably cover the basics of outer Chiang Mai in two days.

I strongly advise against that. It's carnage on the roads here. Lack of traffic signs, bad roads, almost zero enforcement of traffic laws by police, etc. I suggest you have an experienced person drive you around for at least the first few months so you'll have a good idea of what you'll be up against. Use public transportation whenever you can.

If you have driven in Sydney you will be OK. It's not all that bad here. Our American friends find it harder because, for them, it is on the wrong side of the road.

But Thai drivers drive on both sides of the road here, and I'm not referring to one way streets.

[elgordo38]

Welcome to Chiang Mai. Are they large dogs if so you will need to rent on the outskirts of the city to give them leg room. You must be over 50 to be on a retirement visa and each must have a pension over 65,000 bahts a month or each have 800,000 baht seasoned bahts (3 mos. or more) on deposit here in a bank. I as well as many TV members like Bangkok Bank very professional. TV also has a good classified section if your looking for a rental. I like living in a condo (no dogs allowed) We have access to everything within walking distance and a nice pool. Buying and selling vehicles here is a pain as well as getting a license and insurance and accidents can be problematic as the finger is pointed at you most times. The Chiang Mai Christian Community has a good internet newsletter with property rentals, cars, things to do and see and other things Christian related meetings, outings, clubs etc.good if your of the Christian faith. They also have used items for sale usually families that are leaving C.M. Health coverage is important here and in your case there are 2 of you so doubly important. BUPA is available here but unless you have the top package a long term hospital stay can eat your coverage up. I advise looking up Don's Life in Thailand he has many good tips and a daily letter. You can also book online with immigration to do your annual renewal (1900 bahts) My g/f and I do a lot of push biking, get excersize and cut down on transportation costs and arguing with taxi drivers. You are entering a new and sometimes strange culture so roll with the punches. Learn little things like count your change keep your wallet and valuables secure and be aware of your surroundings. If you rent on the outskirts of town be prepared for roosters crowing and dogs barking most of the night. Depends on your noise tolerance. Good Luck feel free to PM me if you feel I can help you further.

[Konini]

just a freindly aussie word of advice,keep a very firm grip on your money here in c/mai,

now a days their are professional hustlers on all corners,the perfect havens are social clubs / bars ..etc etc

they prey on the the newbies settling into c/mai,and will give u a number one haircut in a flash

from my early experience and have maintained it to this day, use your own judgement to rule the big decisions, a bit of local assistance etc etc is needed for you to bed in,but that will come with experience

sure a small nick here and there is acceptable,but be very careful of the number one haircuts, they are awash here in c/mai,, keep your money firmly in your back pocket,

and above all trust yourselves, and nobody else at all, particular when good money comes into the frame

the very best of luck to both of yous

This is very important advise - always keep in the back of your mind that the people, always really nice expats, could very likely be out to fleece you. It's hard thinking the worst of people, but whenever such things are brought into conversation, it's time to walk away. Some of the tales my husband comes home with about schemes and investments are amazing, thankfully we're not gullible, our investments are very safe. In Australia. And they're staying there.

[masuk]

Agree with Masuk re extn cords..... most of the ones here are next to useless if you put any serious current through them. Even the ones that look pretty solid with a fat round cord can be deceiving. Had some at the GFs guesthouse, they didnt like being used when ironing. When I conducted a postmortem I discovered the cable was mostly a plastic sheath with a very small inner wire core. Gave the workers a hell of a fright when they blew apart.

Aussie and Kiwi standards are a lot higher when it comes to electrical wiring and appliances.

Gd luck with your early start to things here, it is a bloody great place.

I've got 2 x 10m heavy duty Oz power leads and 1 x 10m medium duty, if you're interested. Unused.

[Konini]

Some of the major ways you can get that financial "haircut" include investing money in financial products and also in purchasing a home with a long term lease for the land. Foreigners can't own land here, so there are various ways that foreigners work around that restriction, such as setting up a Thai company, having a Thai partner, etc. Some work out quite well, but some can be a total disaster where the foreigner later discovers that they don't really have clear title to their home -- that it isn't theirs to sell to another person.

Condos are a different story. Foreigners can own condos, but that's probably not what the OP is looking for, what with the dogs.

Probably best to rent for a while before investing money into a home.

Another way to lose money in a hurry is to "invest" in a business. That wasn't mentioned in the OP. But, it's amazing how many newly retired people come here with a wad of retirement money burning a hole in their pocket, wondering how they'll fill their time in retirement and someone convinces them owning their very own bar is just the ticket! Amazing! If you never ran a business in your home country, let along a bar -- what makes you think you'll be successful at that undertaking in a foreign country? For many, it's similar to setting up an 8-year old with his own candy-store business.

This is more very good advise, but if you had your own home in Australia and have sold it, consider this; it's probably in your financial interests not to buy another property.

When we retired, our house sold before it was officially on the market - literally 4 hours after the real estate agent had been around to value it - and we weren't ready to go so we had to rent a unit for 6 months. We were brought up knowing that you have to own your home, you have to own your home, you have to own your home. It was just drilled into us. Once the emotion had been taken out of it and I was looking purely at numbers on a piece of paper, we were better off renting. The return we got from the money from the sale of the house and furniture far exceeded the amount we were paying out every month, and on top of that, one phone call and the dripping tap was fixed and I negotiated with the landlord for him to pay for Jim's Mowing to come around once a fortnight to keep the garden clean and tidy. We were in a bigger, better, newer unit in a much better area than we'd been in previously. Being a bean-counter and looking at the figures and nothing else, we should have done it years earlier, as soon as the mortgage was paid off.

We have 3 rental properties of our own, but we'll never buy again, we'll always rent. It just isn't worth it financially, and you can move on a month's notice without having to worry about selling and disposing of furniture etc. I'm negotiating a long term lease at the moment - we're staying here long term so I want the place remodeled to exactly the way I want it to be and we'll be doing our bit by putting money into buying quality furnishings, but we can only do that because we live in a high rise condo where the owner of the entire building, his middle aged son and daughter and whatever children they have live here. There's no chance of a motorbike repair shop or a slaughter house being set up next door, because the people who own the building will suffer from the noise or smells the same way we will and they will ensure it stops.

[elektrified]

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Alert is the key word. Never been to Australia but I would imagine the people follow safe driving practices. So you tend to take it for granted that the other vehicles will do the same. That is not the case here. You must be aware of where all the other vehicles are and what they are doing as well as capable of doing. Many times they will do some thing wrong just because they can do it.

For instance make a left turn into the center lane rather than the out side lane. So if you are turning rite going the same direction as them you will have to wait for them.

I take it this comes from first-hand experience in driving around Thailand on a daily basis, correct?

[elektrified]

just a freindly aussie word of advice,keep a very firm grip on your money here in c/mai,

now a days their are professional hustlers on all corners,the perfect havens are social clubs / bars ..etc etc

they prey on the the newbies settling into c/mai,and will give u a number one haircut in a flash

from my early experience and have maintained it to this day, use your own judgement to rule the big decisions, a bit of local assistance etc etc is needed for you to bed in,but that will come with experience

sure a small nick here and there is acceptable,but be very careful of the number one haircuts, they are awash here in c/mai,, keep your money firmly in your back pocket,

and above all trust yourselves, and nobody else at all, particular when good money comes into the frame

the very best of luck to both of yous

Be very careful of people who contact you via PM. There are foreigners here who work illegally selling/renting real estate, insurance, claim to be lawyers, investment professionals, etc. They will go out of their way to gain your confidence and then do anything possible to get your money. In places like Phuket, Samui, etc. they will even kill you for your money and in many cases, get away with it. Use extreme caution.

[Konini]

Another welcome to Chiang Mai.

We came here for 2 months. 5 years ago. We came home. And we're going to be here until the day the Big Fella upstairs has our name on his clipboard.

There are a lot of ways of living here, from right in the city to way out in the boonies. The old city is probably not a good idea as you have dogs, but there are a lot of very different areas to live in. Don't jump in and commit yourself, we waited for 4 years before deciding exactly where we were going to live forever. Take your time and maybe even live in a couple of different areas before deciding on your perfect retirement spot.

You really need to get into a car and drive about aimlessly, there are so many diverse area's to live in. I've heard that the moo bahns - there're the gated communities outside the city where you would need transport or you will be totally isolated - are ghost towns. When we were looking for somewhere permanent to stay we had to consider all options, so we went out to several of the moo bahns and I have to say that the ones we went to were a bit desolate, you could see that 75% of the houses were unoccupied and didn't see anyone out walking a dog or kids playing, A lot of very nice houses, and some very big houses, with community centres, swimming pools and fitness centres in them, entire communities really, but not so many people. I'm not saying that they're all like that, there are a lot of members of this forum who live in them and seem quite happy with their lot, so there must be nice ones around that's just our experience of looking at 5 or 6.

No worries about Australian appliances - a couple of years ago and again last year we paid the extra for and hauled 40kg of luggage each back with us, some of the things being the things that I just couldn't bring myself to give to charity - I gave them to a friend who we stay with when we go back, and the boxes of things are still unopened. I brought my entire, huge food processor, deep fat fryer, vacuum sealer and the set of pans that I paid GBP300 for just before I got married 30 years ago - they were so expensive I honestly could have bought a small car for that then, but they had a 25 year guarantee and despite being in storage for a couple of years I've gone well beyond the guarantee timespan and will be using them until the day I die, I think; I've even held off buying an induction hob, which I really want, because they are heavy copper-bottomed stainless steel pans, and they are still in the development stage of having the induction work with copper. We're originally from England, and I've brought back from there a proper slow cooker (that actually does cook slowly unlike the ones they sell here) and a Tefal Actifry because they were so outrageously expensive here.

Good advise about the extension cords, I always worry about them because I don't know how much load they can take and if they really should be on. A little while ago I plugged the iron into a different spot to where I usually use it. As soon as I plugged it in, boom. All of the electricity went off and I couldn't reset the fuse board, so I called reception and (I have to say within 3 minutes) the maintenance bloke came in, looked at it, sucked air in through his teeth and went outside press the big button somewhere in a bigger fuse box than mine in the corridor to get it back on, then he re-wired the plug. No extension involved, but a good example of Thai standards - the live and neutral were obviously the wrong way around, easy mistake for a DIY type like myself but not what you expect from professionals.

In Thailand, our electrician is also our plumber, air conditioner servicer, tiler and probably other things that I haven't seen him do. Rather than having time-served tradesmen, they have jacks-of-all-trades'. There must be some good tradesmen out there, otherwise there wouldn't be the buildings and facilites that there are, but most tradies you would call on for common, every day problems isn't going to be properly qualified in anything. The ones who are possibly qualified and good tradesmen don't want to do the little fiddly jobs that people like us want them to do, like re-wiring a plug or clearing a blocked drain. I don't believe you'll get a proper tradesman anywhere in Thailand to do those little jobs around the house, just your average jack-of-all-trades which can be frustrating, but if you watch them like a hawk when they're doing something and guide them on to the right track when necessary, you can manage. But in my experience you really have to watch them like a hawk or they'll nod their head in agreement when you tell them what you want and then go on to do whatever it is the way they think best, not the way you told them you want it. I have experience of this, believe me. And watch them. Closely.

Get out and meet people, there are plenty around, and the Chiang Mai forum is an excellent place to come to for any questions you have - moving to a new country and a totally different culture can be challenging, but also fun. Here in Thailand, we're all expats, we've all been there done that. We've all made the mistakes and found out things the hard way and know now that we really shouldn't have done that. Once, whether a month ago, a year ago 10 years ago or 20 years ago, every single one of us came here to live and were new just like you are.

You should be very glad that you have chosen Chiang Mai, because this place, for reasons I don't know, attracts a different kind of expat than anywhere else we've been. There are only a few bar girls and lady boys; they are all pretty much on one street, and you have to go looking for it if you want it. That means it's not in your face - it's there if you want it but you have to go and find it. The upside of that is that Chiang Mai doesn't get sex tourists and sexpats. I really don't mind the bargirls and the ladyboys; they are earning a living and not hurting me. It's the horrible western men that are part of the package that I object to. Most of them are truly awful and they really believe that they can buy everything and everybody. Dreadful people who make me feel ashamed to be of the same race as them. Fortunately Chiang Mai hasn't been exposed to that kind of person, and it's not a party town, so it doesn't get the drug-fuelled parties that you get on the islands and the awful young people (and not so young hanger's-on) that are a part of that package. That means that the locals aren't really jaded the way they are in other parts of Thailand, and I honestly think that they still like us; in Bangkok I always feel that they are smiling with their lips but not with their eyes. Here, they smile with their eyes and I think they are genuine.

The important thing is relax, take your time and enjoy yourself. And on your computer start a list of things to bring back with you next time you go to Australia or have people bring out for you when they come to visit. It's amazing the things that will end up on that list. A cobweb brush is the latest addition to mine; after asking the question on this forum, I now know that they just don't sell them here, and one will be coming back with me in March, along with proper extension cords. Put things on the list as soon as you think about them or you'll forget then kick yourself when you remember when it's too late.

[Trujillo]

Something seems wrong with the initial post.

A married couple moves to a different country first and then asks questions of the most fundamental nature afterward? Something even so mundane as if appliances will work? I can't imagine that "starting a new life" would mean doing no homework before you made that jump. All the replies and more can be found online. Is this thread for real or was it just that someone was bored and posted to see what would happen?

[Beetlejuice]

Something seems wrong with the initial post.

A married couple moves to a different country first and then asks questions of the most fundamental nature afterward? Something even so mundane as if appliances will work? I can't imagine that "starting a new life" would mean doing no homework before you made that jump. All the replies and more can be found online. Is this thread for real or was it just that someone was bored and posted to see what would happen?

This is why I posed my questions to the OP in my first post and as yet have been ignored.

It also sounds strange to me that an Australian couple haven`t never before been to Chiang Mai or or even Thailand for that matter or perhaps only visited for a holiday would on the spur of the moment just plonk themselves here, including their dogs for the long term.

Unless the OP responds, I too am calling troll on this one.

[chiang mai]

Something seems wrong with the initial post.

A married couple moves to a different country first and then asks questions of the most fundamental nature afterward? Something even so mundane as if appliances will work? I can't imagine that "starting a new life" would mean doing no homework before you made that jump. All the replies and more can be found online. Is this thread for real or was it just that someone was bored and posted to see what would happen?

Whether or not appliances will work in a foreign country doesn't seem to be the make or break on whether a move should be made or not, it's merely an afterthought. This forum has seen large numbers of similar posts over time, people who made the jump and then asked questions afterwards, there's a lot to be said for that style of approach, it avoids procrastination for one thing!

[masuk]

An induction hot plate is the way to go, especially in condos where we cannot have LPG. You're stuck with your copper ware, but you can get excellent ZEBRA brand pots with a steel base so they'll work on induction cookers. Prices for the same thing vary widely, but the Zebra shop at the very foot of Chang Moi rd is good. (next to Warawot Market).

A tongue in cheek question, With Thai 2-pin plugs, how do you know which is live and which is neutral? Answer... no one cares!

Here, extension cords are often what I'd use for speaker wire back in Oz, then the two sets of cables are twisted together, and a bit of tape over them!

Protect electronic gear, computers, printers with a UPS, and assign one power board for the gear, not forgetting a small LED light for when all is dark.

[maderaroja]

If you have dogs, you cannot be interested in peace and quiet. There are too many damn dogs in Thailand now. Eat them or leave then at home. We don't need more dogs.

[chiang mai]

If you have dogs, you cannot be interested in peace and quiet. There are too many damn dogs in Thailand now. Eat them or leave then at home. We don't need more dogs.

Who is "we", you speak for yourself!

[d4291797]

Appologies for being off topic.

Be it animals, or humans, if not bred ,and nurtured correctly, both have the potential to cause mayhem, as recently seen. Humans are far more lethal than any animal!

[FolkGuitar]

Something seems wrong with the initial post.

A married couple moves to a different country first and then asks questions of the most fundamental nature afterward? Something even so mundane as if appliances will work? I can't imagine that "starting a new life" would mean doing no homework before you made that jump. All the replies and more can be found online. Is this thread for real or was it just that someone was bored and posted to see what would happen?

I doubt there is anything amiss...

Some people are very cautious. Others more daring. Some are careful and study a situation before making decisions Others rely upon intuition.

When I moved to California back in the late 60's, the only thing I knew about it was the names of some of the cities. We chose our route because of the TV show 'Route 66.' That took us into L.A. so that's where we stopped. We took the Hollywood Freeway because we knew that name. We decided to get off the Freeway because we saw a sign that said 'Sunset Strip. because we know the TV show '77 Sunset Strip. We were home. We lived there several years and enjoyed it all.

When I moved to Japan, I decided on the move two weeks before. It took me one week to sell off the contents of my apartment and close out various accounts, say goodby to friends and family, and buy a one-way ticket to Osaka. I had read that name in a James Clavell novel. I wasn't going to be a tourist. I was moving there. I stayed 15 years. It became my home.

Then decided to move to Thailand. We came with tourist visas. We shipped all our Japanese household goods via freight, to a holding facility in Bangkok, and flew to Chiang Mai. We had never been here before. Had absolutely no idea what it was like.

We stayed in the Empress Hotel for a month. One day we'd go sight-seeing and the next we'd go looking for a place to live. We rented hired a car and driver to just drive us around and around for several days, looking at different environments. By the third week we knew where we wanted to live, found a house there, called the freight company and gave them the address so they could deliver our stuff, and we were 'home.' That was in 2001...

Home is where you don't have to put paper on the toilet seats.

[Konini]

Home is where you don't have to put paper on the toilet seats.

Excellent post. I wrote the following somewhere else today, I don't remember where, it could even have been in this thread.

Life is for living.

Do it.

[Konini]

Unless the OP responds, I too am calling troll on this one.

Or click-bait. Gotta keep those advertisers happy, eh?

It doesn't matter though, it started a nice thread. And I found out that I have to buy electric extensions in Australia and bring them here without having to ask the question.

[Konini]

I've got 2 x 10m heavy duty Oz power leads and 1 x 10m medium duty, if you're interested. Unused.

I'm in for them if CMKiwi doesn't want all of them, it'll save me lugging them back.

Please send me a PM if you have any leftover, I'll pay whatever you did (Aus $ or baht, up to you).

[Konini]

A tongue in cheek question, With Thai 2-pin plugs, how do you know which is live and which is neutral? Answer... no one cares!

Here, extension cords are often what I'd use for speaker wire back in Oz, then the two sets of cables are twisted together, and a bit of tape over them!

Protect electronic gear, computers, printers with a UPS, and assign one power board for the gear, not forgetting a small LED light for when all is dark.

Ain't that the truth. I worry sometimes when I'm out. Obviously no problem at home because our fuse box definitely works - I had too many things on the same circuit once, table top oven, Actifry and when I put the microwave on, click and I had to go to the box and turn it off, so at least it does work.

It will be the original safety cut out box, which makes it 20 years old. I'm going to have workmen in at some time in the near future, one of whom will have to be competent in electricity. I need to ask a sparky (a properly qualified one from Farang-land) if I ought to ask for the fuse box and safety cut out box (I don't understand why they are two separate beasts) to be replaced or if they'll be right.

[elektrified]

If you have dogs, you cannot be interested in peace and quiet. There are too many damn dogs in Thailand now. Eat them or leave then at home. We don't need more dogs.

Thankfully you're not my neighbor. If a dog went missing I guess we could assume you might have eaten it for dinner.

[FolkGuitar]

Home is where you don't have to put paper on the toilet seats.

Excellent post. I wrote the following somewhere else today, I don't remember where, it could even have been in this thread.

Life is for living.

Do it.

Absolutely!

I guess the real point is, I'm not a tree.

If I don't like where the wind took me I can move somewhere else. It's just not that big of a deal. People spend millions of dollars every year for amusement parks and adventure travel vacations. Our entire lives can be that just as easily, but it requires 'letting go.'