Q-con

[wayned]

What is it?

I'm a Yank and have built houses both here and the US using either Concrete block or frame, wood /steel, construction. I've never heard of the acronym Q-Con. When I Google it, nothing fits.

I assume that it is an acronym for some type of ready mixed structural or decorative concrete and would just like to know exactly what you are referring to. If it is "ready mix" does it have additives that make it "special"?

If it is the structural concrete that is delivered in the trucks with the rotating container, us Yanks call it "ready mix" and it is available in colors and different mixes depending on use, "pea" gravel if you are pumping it!

[bkkjames]

I have only heard of it in relation to bricks being made from it. Not the small ones.

[Crossy]

Q-Con make all sorts of products, but in this context we are talking about Autoclaved Aerated Concrete (AAC) block.

http://qcon.co.th/en/product/q-con-block/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoclaved_aerated_concrete

[wayned]

Thanks!

I know what AAC blocks are. So "Q-CON" is only a company in Thailand that makes them, therefore , acc block construction becomes "Q-Con"! Now I understand,!

Kinda like smoke herring becomes "kippers" - Sorry, it's early!

[Crossy]

Thanks!

I know what AAC blocks are. So "Q-CON" is only a company in Thailand that makes them, therefore , acc block construction becomes "Q-Con"! Now I understand,!

Kinda like smoke herring becomes "kippers" - Sorry, it's early!

Ahh, kippers, mmmmm

[wayned]

ACC blocks were not very popular in the US when I was there maybe they are now. most of the residential construction was insulated frame construction with some kind of facing; wood siding, brick or the most popular, and cheapest, stucco. But that was over 16 years ago and the last house that I built there was in 1976; concrete slab, wood frame construction, brick facing and asphalt shingle roof.

[MJCM]

We are thinking to build our house with those blocks (double wall) (and outer wall only), does anyone know if those blocks are as strong as the other blocks around ?

Thanks

[colinneil]

Aac blocks are stronger than normal thai concrete blocks.Insulation is a lot better also. I have used them on my own home here in Thailand.

[Anthony5]

We are thinking to build our house with those blocks (double wall) (and outer wall only), does anyone know if those blocks are as strong as the other blocks around ?

Thanks

The Q-con and similar blocks, like smart block and super block, are load bearing. The gray "concrete" blocks as they are mistakenly are called here are not, as in fact they aren't even made of concrete but from fly ash.

Edit: Chonburi concrete have a real concrete block as well, in sizes up to 14 cm.

Edited December 3, 2014 by Anthony5

[MJCM]

Thanks Guys !

[Anthony5]

We are thinking to build our house with those blocks (double wall) (and outer wall only), does anyone know if those blocks are as strong as the other blocks around ?

Thanks

By the way, if you want to use them for double wall, but actually one wall only, you should use them for the inner wall instead of the outer wall, for reasons of moist absorption.

[MJCM]

Thanks, and which one would you then recommend for the outer wall ?

[cooked]

AAC blocks that are 75mm large aren't really load bearing, the ratio of height to thickness of the wall makes the wall unstable. This is one reason why the Thais use columns to support the roof. I built two houses in the rough climate of Swizerland with AAC blocks and we never had a problem with moisture after rendering.

[Anthony5]

Thanks, and which one would you then recommend for the outer wall ?

Depends on the construction. Most probably you will use column build anyway, so the blocks don't have to be load bearing and the gray blocks would be fine and work fast.

For insulation purpose, and additional strength I would use the red clay bricks, but not the cheap small ones. They have them here also that look almost similar to the ones used in Europe, but are only slightly smaller.

[Anthony5]

Thanks, and which one would you then recommend for the outer wall ?

This is a very good example of a proper build.

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/730509-has-anyone-elses-power-bills-doubled-summer-rates-maybe/?p=7933838

[eyecatcher]

We are thinking to build our house with those blocks (double wall) (and outer wall only), does anyone know if those blocks are as strong as the other blocks around ?

Thanks

By the way, if you want to use them for double wall, but actually one wall only, you should use them for the inner wall instead of the outer wall, for reasons of moist absorption.

We are in Thailand not the western climes of driving rain and ice.

I wouldnt use them on my coastal retreat for sure.

I just watched a you tube video of the aac block the clinker block and a redbrick immersed in a bucket of water. The aac block came out thr best with about 1cm absorbtion.

Now add your 15mm render and the block will nrver even get damp.

Even render in the uk is very common on standard blocks and the most common damp penetration would be cracks in the render.

At 20bt for a 7.5cm q con or dura its well worth it.

Now there is a new kid on the block. The ekoblok. made in khon kaen and Bkk I brlieve. its a L/b concrete block and has thr thumbs up by construction companies in CM. I am trying to get a price on these at the moment. Very light 70mm thick and a good length:o

[kamalabob2]

The house I paid for in 2007 has 12.5cm CPAC autoclaved aerated cement blocks for exterior walls and 7.5 thick CPAC autoclaved aerated AAC blocks for all interior walls. I considered Super Block, Smart Block, Thai Con and Q-Con but at the time CPAC was a lower price. SCG phased out CPAC blocks when they bought Q-con a few years ago. If I build another home it will be with 15 cm or 20cm Diamond Block AAC blocks for the exterior and 10 cm or 7.5 cm Diamond block AAC autoclaved blocks for interior walls. Not all autoclaved blocks are created equal and you can easily see by looking at the a pallet load that has been in the rain outside a builders merchants store for more than a couple of months. Some brands sold at modern trade stores do not fair well prior to installation and rendering. Dura is a "budget line" of building products from SCG. They are not made to quite the same specifications as Elephant Brand or Q-Con. The Dura sales rep told that to my face in Buriram when I asked.

In Isaan or Central Thailand, If you are buying 7.5 autoclaved blocks for 20 baht (including shipping to your house building site) you have not shopped around at a lower overhead store. If you are paying more than 50 baht for a 20 cm thick autoclaved block you would do well to shop around a bit more. All stores pay similar prices from the manufacturers, but transportation is arranged by the dealer and profit margin is decided by the dealer in Thailand. If the store you work with buys a full truck load AAC blocks at a time they save on shipping costs. The cost can also vary on the brand and dealer you buy the render and affixant for AAC blocks. Any competent builders merchant store can borrow your house plans, and have the block manufacturer do an exact list of how many wall blocks or how many roof tiles you should buy to avoid waste. I've seen the technical representatives from Diamond Block go to house building sites in Buriram province to instruct some inexperienced building teams on the proper build of AAC blocks.

[casualbiker]

Thanks, and which one would you then recommend for the outer wall ?

This is a very good example of a proper build.

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/730509-has-anyone-elses-power-bills-doubled-summer-rates-maybe/?p=7933838

That link is to a thread about aircon! Is that correct?

[Anthony5]

Thanks, and which one would you then recommend for the outer wall ?

This is a very good example of a proper build.

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/730509-has-anyone-elses-power-bills-doubled-summer-rates-maybe/?p=7933838

That link is to a thread about aircon! Is that correct?

Maybe you can explain to all of us, which is the importance what the subject of the thread is that contains the picture, since the purpose of posting the picture was to show a proper construction?

Chip on the shoulder playing up again?

[casualbiker]

Thanks, and which one would you then recommend for the outer wall ?

This is a very good example of a proper build.

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/730509-has-anyone-elses-power-bills-doubled-summer-rates-maybe/?p=7933838

That link is to a thread about aircon! Is that correct?

Maybe you can explain to all of us, which is the importance what the subject of the thread is that contains the picture, since the purpose of posting the picture was to show a proper construction?

Chip on the shoulder playing up again?

I was only asking why post the thread info stating "this is a good example of proper build " which doesn't actually have build information.

The picture is a great example though, thanks for that!

As for chip on my shoulder .. ummm nope!

[Anthony5]

I was only asking why post the thread info stating "this is a good example of proper build " which doesn't actually have build information.

The picture is a great example though, thanks for that!

As for chip on my shoulder .. ummm nope!

I would consider it nothing more than decent netiquette to include a reference to the source of the picture, since all credits for having such a nice construction go to SandyF, and not me.

You could have stated the intention of your question better.

[casualbiker]

I was only asking why post the thread info stating "this is a good example of proper build " which doesn't actually have build information.

The picture is a great example though, thanks for that!

As for chip on my shoulder .. ummm nope!

I would consider it nothing more than decent netiquette to include a reference to the source of the picture, since all credits for having such a nice construction go to SandyF, and not me.

You could have stated the intention of your question better.

My question was fine! Your answer was not. But whatever!!

[CGW]

The brick and block work look ok, but I would have had the footings a lot higher (30cm or so) before laying any bricks or blocks, then lay blocks inside and outside for the added thermal insulation. being off the ground they won't get soaked.

Example above unless its on top of a hill would not be ideal in a heavy rain and subsequent flood.

[Anthony5]

The brick and block work look ok, but I would have had the footings a lot higher (30cm or so) before laying any bricks or blocks, then lay blocks inside and outside for the added thermal insulation. being off the ground they won't get soaked.

Example above unless its on top of a hill would not be ideal in a heavy rain and subsequent flood.

What you mean with the footings higher? I assume you mean the floorbase, which I think is present under the bricks.

I also don't know how the finished job looks, however going through SandyF's post history may result in some more pictures, as I think he may also have included a walkway around the walls.

Edit: I think this is the finished product and it looks to me there will no problem with the walls getting soaked.

Edit 2: Don't think it's the same house, because the date on it is 5 years earlier.

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/711098-designing-and-building-in-chiang-mai/?p=7567247

Edited December 5, 2014 by Anthony5

[eyecatcher]

Thanks, and which one would you then recommend for the outer wall ?

This is a very good example of a proper build.

http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/730509-has-anyone-elses-power-bills-doubled-summer-rates-maybe/?p=7933838

Hate to disagree guys, but it may be a satisfactory standard for you, but if that was my build I would be thinking:

1. Get the brickwork bond half brick traditional in lieu of a lazy 40mm? bond. That looks ridiculous.

2. Certainly on a double skin wall, include some wall ties back to the block, even simple cut rebar. Then the wall is stronger.

3.Where is the expansion joint?. I would have one at the point of the concrete column. Bricks expand at a much higher rate than the block. An e.j every 5m in this hot climate I should think.

4.Pedantic; but the farcical positioning and infrequency of the tie bars from the column tell me that not much thought was put into brickwork set offline when constructing the frame.

just saying!

[MJCM]

<snip>

1. Get the brickwork bond half brick traditional in lieu of a lazy 40mm? bond. That looks ridiculous.

2. Certainly on a double skin wall, include some wall ties back to the block, even simple cut rebar. Then the wall is stronger.

3.Where is the expansion joint?. I would have one at the point of the concrete column. Bricks expand at a much higher rate than the block. An e.j every 5m in this hot climate I should think.

4.Pedantic; but the farcical positioning and infrequency of the tie bars from the column tell me that not much thought was put into brickwork set offline when constructing the frame.

just saying!

Care to explain a bit more please as you have completely lost me as I am not at all knowledgeable in this subject but willing to learn

Thanks

[eyecatcher]

<snip>

1. Get the brickwork bond half brick traditional in lieu of a lazy 40mm? bond. That looks ridiculous.

2. Certainly on a double skin wall, include some wall ties back to the block, even simple cut rebar. Then the wall is stronger.

3.Where is the expansion joint?. I would have one at the point of the concrete column. Bricks expand at a much higher rate than the block. An e.j every 5m in this hot climate I should think.

4.Pedantic; but the farcical positioning and infrequency of the tie bars from the column tell me that not much thought was put into brickwork set offline when constructing the frame.

just saying!

Care to explain a bit more please as you have completely lost me as I am not at all knowledgeable in this subject but willing to learn

Thanks

Ok; at the risk of taking this subject completely off topic and open to worldwide condemnation of my Western European building practices; I will attempt to justify my 4 criticisms.

1. There are several well established brick bonds, with names "stretcher" "flemish" "English" being the most common. A bond has a function and that is to......you guessed it....."bond"

these bonds or patterns if you care are designed to make the brickwork uniform, maximising strength and to make the bricks aesthetically pleasing.

what we have in the photo appears to me to be a very shallow staggered stretcher type bond overlapping by 40mm. so that means you have an untidy appearence and the mortar joint between is almost an induced crack.....well; it will be when the building settles, or the sun comes out.

2.The external wall is a cavity wall, so why not use the opportunity at very little cost and time to make those two walls act as a unit? Its not essential here as the loadbearing structure is the concrete frame but for the sake of good building practice I would feel better to have them included. ideally stainless steel is the way to go; but galvanised bar is good for 20yr

3. Just like all other building materials bricks will change in volume with changes in temperatures. It depends where the bricks are located and what conditions are being thrown at it. Bricks will increase in size; fact;. a brick will expand at 0.035mm for a 40deg temp rise. Add that up over the number of bricks. A 1cm expansion joint at the concrete coloumn position would be the place to set off from. Vertically for the height of the brick. Some people prefer to line it up under a window jamb. Simple flexell fibreboard and mastic was the way to go but proprietory neoprene products are more common now.

4. I was looking at that coloumn thinking what is that rebar doing there. It probably lines up with the back face of the brick, maybe not? And set at what 600/900 centres really of no use what so ever. I tstruck me that the brickwork was an afterthought or the builder didnt think ahead and position them better or even manually drill angle bracket cramps from the concrete to the brick.

And do i see correctly; is that brick cut around the column? Why not line the brick up to meet the column then make a dummy brick column feature around the column.

That would also give a perfect opportunity for hiding the expansion joint; where it will never be seen.

Hope you followed that.

[cooked]

Let's just get back to the OP, shall we? If he is worried about insulation, just take thicker blocks. Q blocks are easy to chanel for conduits. I have done double skinned walls and I can assure you that unless I was standing next to the guy annoying him constantly, it wouldn't get done right. Start a new thread if you don't like the way it started off.

sent from phone using bih thumbs

[MoD1977]

I wondering why he dont use the q-blocks also on the outside wall?

Is there a good reason for that or is it only price related?

I planing to let build a House for me and want t go for double walls so i'm very iteressted in this type of building.

My goal is:

1. reduce Heat

2. Soundproofing

thanks for your advice

Regards

MoD

[Anthony5]

I wondering why he dont use the q-blocks also on the outside wall?

Is there a good reason for that or is it only price related?

I planing to let build a House for me and want t go for double walls so i'm very iteressted in this type of building.

My goal is:

1. reduce Heat

2. Soundproofing

thanks for your advice

Regards

MoD

http://www.aac-india.com/problems-related-to-aac-blocks-usage/

1. AAC blocks have higher water absorption compared to clay bricks!
2. AAC blocks are not suited for external walls in areas with high rainfall!

http://www.aacblocks.vn/useful-info/faqs

Does weight of AAC Blocks increase much after adsorbing water, evaporation rate of brick AAC Blocks fast or slow?

In spite of being a lightweight, porous, floating material but AAC Blocks has water absorption rate from 15-40% (depending on temperature, humidity) but the evaporation is also very fast because AAC Blocks has many interconnecting pores easing the moisture and water diffusion in normal environmental conditions.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=11&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CBwQFjAAOAo&url=http%3A%2F%2Fi-rep.emu.edu.tr%3A8080%2Fjspui%2Fbitstream%2F11129%2F148%2F1%2FSomi.pdf&ei=M_ODVMSBGMijugTWxIHQCA&usg=AFQjCNGUurnTXjtmdlTHZwKa3uoKdAFXqg&sig2=rJHu6dc5A7N6YifUTocICQ

The average dry weights of 1.385 kg and 0.057 kg for 150mm and 50mm, respectively was reached after this process. Fully saturated samples were achieved after 96 hours of floating samples inside water tank. Average water contents of 0.954 kg and 0.042 kg were absorbed by 150mm and 50mm samples, respectively during 96 hours to reach their fully saturated condition. Average water absorption percentages of 68%and 73% were also calculated for 150mm and 50mm samples

Edited December 7, 2014 by Anthony5