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Humming Noise on a Ford Fiesta


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Oh...by the way, a tire that has worn abnormally (cupped) can make exactly the same noises as a bad wheel bearing. I worked at Ford Dealers for 9 years and then owned my own shops for another 18. We followed up on a lot of other shops mistakes, If we heard what sounded like wheel bearing noise but couldn't verify a bad wheel bearing, we would change the tires to a different position and see if the noise changed also.

Hope things work out!

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The clicking noise is likely either a loose inner tie rod end on the steering rack or a bad constant velocity joint in one of the half-shafts (axles). It does seem like early failure, has the car ever been in an accident? Are you the only driver? Every car I've owned here has had front-end problems, even the Toyota.

No accident, daughter has been driving the car for the last month, the car has been back on two previous occasions about the clicking noise and each time (short space of time) they apparently solved the problem !

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Why ask us? It is still under warranty, take it to the Ford Dealer.

I would sure want to know all of the other possibilities of what could cause something like this, next time it might not be under warranty. If you wouldn't then more power to you.

Edited by Lee4Life
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Why ask us? It is still under warranty, take it to the Ford Dealer.

A. Before commenting, read the OP.

B. I wasn't asking you, I was asking the more helpful posters on here !

clap2.gif .............Yep, this the gear head forum......If folk don't like it then go to the knitting forum...w00t.gif

Do we have one.................facepalm.gif .............We should have.......laugh.png

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I would sure want to know all of the other possibilities of what could cause something like this, next time it might not be under warranty. If you wouldn't then more power to you.

I have found that in trying to troubleshoot, the best advice is that which I got from my Father -

Keep It Simple Stupid (no offence to anyone either intended or implied) this is what he said to me.

Meaning, look at the simple stuff first. Tires - cause they lead a hard life. It is most times something simple.

Clicking sound - try and provide more info. Driving straight ahead, turning - what direction or both, braking, coasting.

The more info you can provide, the more helpful the advice from the more experienced poster will be.

But - as said above - look at the simple stuff first. Don't fall into the trap ... Clicking noise - oh no, the crankshaft is broken !

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I would sure want to know all of the other possibilities of what could cause something like this, next time it might not be under warranty. If you wouldn't then more power to you.

I have found that in trying to troubleshoot, the best advice is that which I got from my Father -

Keep It Simple Stupid (no offence to anyone either intended or implied) this is what he said to me.

Meaning, look at the simple stuff first. Tires - cause they lead a hard life. It is most times something simple.

Clicking sound - try and provide more info. Driving straight ahead, turning - what direction or both, braking, coasting.

The more info you can provide, the more helpful the advice from the more experienced poster will be.

But - as said above - look at the simple stuff first. Don't fall into the trap ... Clicking noise - oh no, the crankshaft is broken !

Where have I asked for advice on the clicking sound ? this is what I said "they also need to change a part on the steering rack as I get a click click click when turning the wheel to full lock".

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I would sure want to know all of the other possibilities of what could cause something like this, next time it might not be under warranty. If you wouldn't then more power to you.

I have found that in trying to troubleshoot, the best advice is that which I got from my Father -

Keep It Simple Stupid (no offence to anyone either intended or implied) this is what he said to me.

Meaning, look at the simple stuff first. Tires - cause they lead a hard life. It is most times something simple.

Clicking sound - try and provide more info. Driving straight ahead, turning - what direction or both, braking, coasting.

The more info you can provide, the more helpful the advice from the more experienced poster will be.

But - as said above - look at the simple stuff first. Don't fall into the trap ... Clicking noise - oh no, the crankshaft is broken !

Where have I asked for advice on the clicking sound ? this is what I said "they also need to change a part on the steering rack as I get a click click click when turning the wheel to full lock".

As you can see, I have responded to Lee4Life

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Neversure and transam win the prize, wheel bearing it is ! would have thought that it was a bit early for a wheel bearing to go (15,000 km) but what do I know ? they also need to change a part on the steering rack as I get a click click click when turning the wheel to full lock, apparently 3 days wait for the parts and 1 1/2 days to do the work, told them to make sure the courtesy car is waiting me when I bring it in !

The click click is definitely CV joint. A day and half to change? Good mechanic with a press and hoist could do it in about 2 to 3 hours. Leaves a lot of time for smoke breaks.thumbsup.gif Mate in aussie has a mobile service changing CV joints in your driveway and can do in just over an hour. He tells me it is best to change both at same time but I bet Ford will come up with a reason for not wanting to do it under warranty

Edited by callaway
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they also need to change a part on the steering rack as I get a click click click when turning the wheel to full lock,

Posters on here saying it's a CV joint obviously haven't read the OP's post above, after the car was inspected at the dealer.

The problem is in the steering rack NOT the drive shaft where the CV joint is attached.

It could well be the Universal Joint that attaches the steering column to the rack, as it clicks when turning the steering wheel to full lock, NOT when the car is in full lock and moving which would indicate the CV Joint failing.

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they also need to change a part on the steering rack as I get a click click click when turning the wheel to full lock,

Posters on here saying it's a CV joint obviously haven't read the OP's post above, after the car was inspected at the dealer.

The problem is in the steering rack NOT the drive shaft where the CV joint is attached.

It could well be the Universal Joint that attaches the steering column to the rack, as it clicks when turning the steering wheel to full lock, NOT when the car is in full lock and moving which would indicate the CV Joint failing.

Never heard of a steering shaft UJ fail, it does nothing unless there is no power steering. Maybe something touching down the line but UJ............

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T/A,

we can only go on what the OP has written, and what they told him at Ford.

I admit steering column U/J's don't often fail but neither should the C/V's at

15000klm and only 8 months.

Whatever it is that they will be changing on the steering rack it will be a prematurely

failed component from new, as is the case with the wheel bearings, and not a good

reputation for Ford.

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2days for a3 hr job. ??

Three hour job? Maybe on the Ford Anglia of your youth but there's so much stuff shoehorned into FWD cars these days, nothing is as easy as it used to be. It took the mechanics about an hour just to get to the air-conditioning clutch on the wife's CR-V when it went open-circuit as the compressor was mounted at the bottom of the engine and only easily accessible with the car on a hoist.

Did you ever try and quickly change the battery on the old Chevy S-10 pickup? Bloody ridiculous affair with bloody terminals on the SIDE of the battery!

Anyway, since it is a warranty job, it will be done slowly and properly.

Wrong ,look up Ford Dealer times for the Job.Just spoke to Ford.They are wrong are they.

LOL... this reminds me of the frequent argument I would have with clients in my law office when they thought I wasn't spending enough time on their case. They only see lawyers on television working for a single client. They aren't aware that a single-lawyer practise has about 500 clients on average and half of those are involved in active or ongoing cases. That's why I bill you by the hour. Sorry, take a number and have a coffee in the waiting room (it is free).

Now, if you think that the whole team of mechanics are going to work solely on the OP's car for the 3.28 or whatever hours their customer service spiel says...

Sorry, take a number and have a coffee in the waiting room (it is free).

Edited by NanLaew
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2days for a3 hr job. ??

Three hour job? Maybe on the Ford Anglia of your youth but there's so much stuff shoehorned into FWD cars these days, nothing is as easy as it used to be. It took the mechanics about an hour just to get to the air-conditioning clutch on the wife's CR-V when it went open-circuit as the compressor was mounted at the bottom of the engine and only easily accessible with the car on a hoist.

Did you ever try and quickly change the battery on the old Chevy S-10 pickup? Bloody ridiculous affair with bloody terminals on the SIDE of the battery!

Anyway, since it is a warranty job, it will be done slowly and properly.

Wrong ,look up Ford Dealer times for the Job.Just spoke to Ford.They are wrong are they.

LOL... this reminds me of the frequent argument I would have with clients in my law office when they thought I wasn't spending enough time on their case. They only see lawyers on television working for a single client. They aren't aware that a single-lawyer practise has about 500 clients on average and half of those are involved in active or ongoing cases. That's why I bill you by the hour. Sorry, take a number and have a coffee in the waiting room (it is free).

Now, if you think that the whole team of mechanics are going to work solely on the OP's car for the 3.28 or whatever hours their customer service spiel says...

Sorry, take a number and have a coffee in the waiting room (it is free).

I don't like lawyers........coffee1.gif

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they also need to change a part on the steering rack as I get a click click click when turning the wheel to full lock,

Posters on here saying it's a CV joint obviously haven't read the OP's post above, after the car was inspected at the dealer.

The problem is in the steering rack NOT the drive shaft where the CV joint is attached.

It could well be the Universal Joint that attaches the steering column to the rack, as it clicks when turning the steering wheel to full lock, NOT when the car is in full lock and moving which would indicate the CV Joint failing.

To be fair, my daughter told me that a part needs to be changed on the steering for the click click noise so I put it as the steering rack ! Sorry !

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they also need to change a part on the steering rack as I get a click click click when turning the wheel to full lock,

Posters on here saying it's a CV joint obviously haven't read the OP's post above, after the car was inspected at the dealer.

The problem is in the steering rack NOT the drive shaft where the CV joint is attached.

It could well be the Universal Joint that attaches the steering column to the rack, as it clicks when turning the steering wheel to full lock, NOT when the car is in full lock and moving which would indicate the CV Joint failing.

To be fair, my daughter told me that a part needs to be changed on the steering for the click click noise so I put it as the steering rack ! Sorry !

Racks don't click............

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The last two cars I owned in The States were Cadillac Sevilles, one diesel and one gasoline. Both cars supposedly Americas finest were nothing but poorly designed junk. Built to break down. In 1984 I swore to myself I would not under any circumstances ever buy another American made car. In May of 1884 I bought a new two door coupe Mercedes Benz. Drove the car for 6 years, only had to change the water pump. I did that myself, and when I got the pump off, guess what it was a General Motors water pump.

Moved to Thailand. Every vehicle I have owned here has been Japanese. Since 1984 and swearing never to buy an American car again, for 31 years I haven't had 5 seconds worth of car problems, (other than the GM water pump on the most expensive car I have ever owned in my life, and the only thing that broke on it was an American made part)

Susuki, honda, toyota, isuzu, mitsubishi, take your pick. All great cars and if serviced properly will give many many years of problem free service.

Do not buy an American car.

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they also need to change a part on the steering rack as I get a click click click when turning the wheel to full lock,

Posters on here saying it's a CV joint obviously haven't read the OP's post above, after the car was inspected at the dealer.

The problem is in the steering rack NOT the drive shaft where the CV joint is attached.

It could well be the Universal Joint that attaches the steering column to the rack, as it clicks when turning the steering wheel to full lock, NOT when the car is in full lock and moving which would indicate the CV Joint failing.

To be fair, my daughter told me that a part needs to be changed on the steering for the click click noise so I put it as the steering rack ! Sorry !

No prob Alfie, but when you do eventually get the car repaired, please let us know what parts were

replaced, as i am curious to know, due to how new and low mileage the vehicle is.

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The last two cars I owned in The States were Cadillac Sevilles, one diesel and one gasoline. Both cars supposedly Americas finest were nothing but poorly designed junk. Built to break down. In 1984 I swore to myself I would not under any circumstances ever buy another American made car. In May of 1884 I bought a new two door coupe Mercedes Benz. Drove the car for 6 years, only had to change the water pump. I did that myself, and when I got the pump off, guess what it was a General Motors water pump.

Moved to Thailand. Every vehicle I have owned here has been Japanese. Since 1984 and swearing never to buy an American car again, for 31 years I haven't had 5 seconds worth of car problems, (other than the GM water pump on the most expensive car I have ever owned in my life, and the only thing that broke on it was an American made part)

Susuki, honda, toyota, isuzu, mitsubishi, take your pick. All great cars and if serviced properly will give many many years of problem free service.

Do not buy an American car.

But... the Chevrolets and Fords here in LOS aint American either.

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No accidents but daughter has been driving it.....

Sounds like she drove over a curb and buggered something.

Well although my daughter passed her official test a while ago she actually only passed Alfies test about a month ago thus she has only been driving for a month by herself ! the click click noise was first heard about 5 months ago and returned to Ford who duly made the noise disappear !

Footnote : The daughter was taught not to drive over kerbs biggrin.png

Edited by alfieconn
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