Maize and Rotational Crops

[wayned]

Based on the on going discussions regarding the ownership of the land after my wife passed and the use of the rented government rental land which seem to be going absolutely nowhere even with the help of a lawyer, I made a decision last night to not invest any more money into planting this season. My decision was not taken very well by the family but I can't see spending more at this time. The beasts belong to the coop so all's still well there, I think!

I'll plant some sweet corn for me on a couple of rai behind the house but that's going to be it for this year!

[JungleBiker]

The Thais put on the fertilizer as a top dressing ,and also to ridge up the crop , helps stop the wind and rain knocking over the plants, also the ridges helps to keep in some mositure ,for the crop.

Some farmer have been puting on a top dressing of N as the cobs apper ,say it increases yield.

Yes the ridging helps get the fertilizer into the soil. If left on the surface the nitrogen (usually in the form of urea) can disappear into the atmosphere (due to volatilization - you can google that big word!). An alternative is to irrigate or hope for rain to wash it in. Besides supporting the plants and mixing in the fertilizer, the ridging operation also destroys weeds, though it would also mess up your residual herbicide treatment.

Regarding fertilizer for maize you can read the attached documents (that I've had stored in my hard disk for a few years and they're freely available on the net somewhere); they relate to growing corn in the tropics versus a lot of the corn information on the web that refers to growing corn in temperate places like mainland USA, etc. Anyway, nitrogen is needed throughout the crop's life cycle but it is particularly important for vegetative growth, i.e. leafy growth, and it's the leaves that will later feed the cobs. So unless Thai farmers are also applying nitrogen earlier in the crop cycle, applying just a single top dressing as the cobs appear does not seem right to me - it would be too late to support the growth of the leaves. The optimum way to supply nitrogen to plants is include a little bit in the irrigation water and irrigate frequently - that's why hydroponic systems can give very high yields. But without irrigation the alternative is to apply smaller amounts in regular top dressings (e.g. weekly) but then the costs of application go up. So more often the recommendation is to apply just one or two top dressings. Anyhow, I'll leave you to read more for yourselves.

By the way, I'm not a corn grower or corn specialist but I do have a background in horticulture/agriculture and a lot of the practices and principles of plant nutrition apply to most crops.

Happy reading,

JB.

Corn in Hawaii 2003.pdf

upland maize manual cambodia.pdf

Corn growing in irrigated paddy fields.pdf

[BSJ]

farmerjo. hope you can post pictures of your planted field after the sprout come up and can be seen. you may be pleasemtly surprised.

if you get a decent rain in the next 10 days or so a lot of the seed may get covered enough to sprout and go ahead and make a good stand. i have seen corn seed lay for a couple weeks in too dry conditions to sprout, then a decent rain comes and it takes off and makes a record crop. we have to think positive,

Thanks for your input Slapout,its experienced guys like you and Kickstart whom can guide us relatively new guys to sustainable farming.

While i'm here i'll just give a quick insight to costs to date.

For a 70 rai field

So far no-till way

Maize 999 seed 575 baht/rai at 3.5 kg

Fertilizer 15-15-15 740 baht/rai at 45 kg

Chemical glysophate,2-4d and paraquat 170 baht/rai

Diesel 95 baht/rai

So total cost to plant 1580 baht/rai.

Anyone know what guys are charging 1,2,3 pass then seeding with ploughs and a seeder these days?

Hi FarmerJo, slightly off topic but I would like to know the brand of 15-15-15 and were you bought it. We have to order 15-15-15 and 46-0-0 to mix for the mango orchard. We need about 3 ton and 1 ton respectively. They have quoted us 955 baht a 50kg bag of 15-15-15 Your paying about 822 baht/50kg?

We are in Noen Mapluang over near Wang Plong in Phitsanulok province. Most of the wifes land is in Phitsanulok but there is some family land, everyone got a chunk when granny died, in Petchabun province about 5 minutes from where we live.

Most around here grow corn for manufacture into stock food, and we will next year but I wanted to grow some corn for human consumption on the 3 rai hillside.

Fancy Purple 311 looks good on paper but I have never grown it. I have grown other varieties back in Oz in the backyard, so I am experimenting! I want to plant half a rai a week to space out the time for harvest and see if we can move it through the local markets and maybe up on Hwy 11 roadside.

Of course the window for selling it once picked is very very narrow.

Anyway if worse comes to worse I will eat as much as I can!

[farmerjo]

 

Hi Bsj,

 

820/bag in chumphae market area,local seed supplier wanted 845.

 

The seed supplier said why not use the cheaper stuff as didnt have enough bags in stock.

 

But we all know you pay for the quality and variation of fertilizer products.

 

I've never done any soil sampling so try to put a bit of everthing in the ground.

 

Good luck with your corn growing and hope it sells well.

 

There's a good archive on here called corn on a cob where maizerfarmer and sap discuss in detail.

[farmerjo]

While were on the topic of soil preparation,

How much advantage is there in trying to build organic matter into the topsoil.

Does it mean after a while you can use less chemical fertilizer.

I have read that leaving residue on top to breakdown creates organic matter,although this matter is full of carbon and you need extra nitrogen to break it down.

Is there a rule of thumb for example like a heavy residue may require an extra 30kgs of urea to feed your plant and offset the nitrogen being used for breaking down the residue.

[kickstart]

While were on the topic of soil preparation,

How much advantage is there in trying to build organic matter into the topsoil.

Does it mean after a while you can use less chemical fertilizer.

I have read that leaving residue on top to breakdown creates organic matter,although this matter is full of carbon and you need extra nitrogen to break it down.

Is there a rule of thumb for example like a heavy residue may require an extra 30kgs of urea to feed your plant and offset the nitrogen being used for breaking down the residue.

As for leaving it on the surface,how many time have you walked across a maize stubble field and the old plants crunch under your feet,dried out ,not a lot of nutrients in that . some papers say any disease problems,might be carried over to the next crop on the stubble.

Incorporating stubble into the topsoil would work and I am certain it will help the organic matter, but in Thailand we are back to equipment, with only 3 and 7 discs ploughs, look at websites for straw incorporation, equipment there are all heavy disc's and cultivators, all one pass equipment.

Here you would have to use a topper to top the maize stuble, then a 7 disc plough, that is about nearest thing we have to incorporating stuble,I have seen some disc harrows ,3 point linkage mounted, a bit light but would do the job.

But after topping .discing,you may then be able to use a 7 disc plough , then drill,would all this make economical sense?it would help the soil ,but would costs out do the good it will do in savings on chemical fertilizers

Will try and find some some thing on the urea question .

KS

[farmerjo]

A couple of pics of the maize coming up.

 

9 days ago it was seeded,all in all pretty happy with the germination.

 

Will wait a week then hit it with a post emergence herbicide.

 

[Ron19]

I am not thinking about the figures mentioned here as regards to the number of rai being planted but just a small plot for home use with part of the crop being sold if needed.

Here is where we are up to at the moment preparing the ground ready for planting.

This is the plot which is on two sides of a shed on site.It has been tidied up ready for a Yanmar tractor with a 6 disc plough to come and do it's work.

Now the ploughing has been done and the rotaryhoe has been superseeded by these modern implements powered by my 71 year old bones.

Here it is now all done and waiting for the rain so planting can go ahead.

I'm not too sure how the drainage will run but that is easily rectified if needed when the time comes.

[wayned]

It looks like I will be appointed executor of my wife's estate so I went ahead and planted on the property she owns.  I'll have up to a year to transfer it to a Thai.  However, the rental land, 50+ rai, will go to the next person in the que and is handled locally so it will happen fast and, although it's ready to plant, I've elected not to spend the money to avoid any hassles at harvest time.  The government land leases are really tenancy agreements and do not become part of any estate upon death.

 

Had a good soaking rain Monday and Tuesday night. Planted Wednesday as did most others and since then it has been three of the driest and hottest days all year.

 

 

 

[BSJ]

C360_2015-04-26-11-30-22-741.jpg

 

Hi Bsj,

 

820/bag in chumphae market area,local seed supplier wanted 845.

 

The seed supplier said why not use the cheaper stuff as didnt have enough bags in stock.

 

But we all know you pay for the quality and variation of fertilizer products.

 

I've never done any soil sampling so try to put a bit of everthing in the ground.

 

Good luck with your corn growing and hope it sells well.

 

There's a good archive on here called corn on a cob where maizerfarmer and sap discuss in detail.

Hi there, Bought the same brand in Sak Lek the other day for 790 baht a bag.  We asked at 3 other places and it was 800/bag!  Got to save every baht now a days!

 

 

[farmerjo]

 

C360_2015-04-26-11-30-22-741.jpg

 

Hi Bsj,

 

820/bag in chumphae market area,local seed supplier wanted 845.

 

seed supplier said why not use the cheaper stuff as didnt have enough bags in stock.

 

But we all know you pay for the quality and variation of fertilizer products.

 

I've never done any soil sampling so try to put a bit of everthing in the ground.

 

Good luck with your corn growing and hope it sells well.

 

There's a good archive on here called corn on a cob where maizerfarmer and sap discuss in detail.

Hi there, Bought the same brand in Sak Lek the other day for 790 baht a bag.  We asked at 3 other places and it was 800/bag!  Got to save every baht now a days!

 

955 down to 790 is a huge saving,well done for shopping around,only if hybrid seed prices would do the same..

.

 

[farmerjo]

It looks like I will be appointed executor of my wife's estate so I went ahead and planted on the property she owns.  I'll have up to a year to transfer it to a Thai.  However, the rental land, 50+ rai, will go to the next person in the que and is handled locally so it will happen fast and, although it's ready to plant, I've elected not to spend the money to avoid any hassles at harvest time.  The government land leases are really tenancy agreements and do not become part of any estate upon death.

 

Had a good soaking rain Monday and Tuesday night. Planted Wednesday as did most others and since then it has been three of the driest and hottest days all year.

 

corn 001.jpg

 

corn 002.jpg

 

I hear you about hot days,had to go away for a couple to take my mind off it.

 

I have quite a few plants that look yellow on the very tip of the tallest leaf.

 

Nothing what a good soaking wont fix i hope.Soil temperatures are very high at the moment and probably outside the comfort zone. 

[JungleBiker]

Is there a rule of thumb for example like a heavy residue may require an extra 30kgs of urea to feed your plant and offset the nitrogen being used for breaking down the residue.

Will try and find some some thing on the urea question .

KS

There is a page here http://corn.agronomy.wisc.edu/Management/L007.aspx on "corn tillage systems" (it includes zero-tillage) and regarding fertilizer it says:

..........

Nitrogen (N) applications on cereals are similar for all tillage systems. Broadcasting urea on the surface can result in significant losses of nitrogen if it is not incorporated into the soil. This is particularly so for high residue conditions. The nitrogen required for corn should be placed below crop residues. In high residue situations coulters may be necessary for proper placement.

Phosphate and Potash Phosphate (P) and potash (K) requirements are applied with the planter or drill as a starter fertilizer.

This is particularly important in no-till or ridge till systems when soil test levels are low. In high residue conditions, coulter in front of the fertilizer opener will improve placement. Requirements above what can be safely applied with the planter or drill should be broadcast. Tillage equipment can do a good job of incorporating fertilizers in a mulch till system. Coulters will do some incorporation of broadcast fertilizer in a no-till system.

Note: Soil testing and fertilization are very important in any tillage system. Fertility levels should be at least in the medium range before starting no-till as it is hard to incorporate large amounts of fertilizer without tillage.

.......

I wonder if you could use your seed drill to drill fertilizer into the soil to one side of the rows?

[farmerjo]

 

 

Is there a rule of thumb for example like a heavy residue may require an extra 30kgs of urea to feed your plant and offset the nitrogen being used for breaking down the residue.

 

Will try and find some some thing on the urea  question .

KS

 

There is a page here

http://corn.agronomy.wisc.edu/Management/L007.aspx

 on "corn tillage systems" (it includes zero-tillage) and regarding fertilizer it says: 

..........

Nitrogen (N) applications on cereals are similar for all tillage systems.

Broadcasting urea on the surface can result in significant losses of nitrogen if it is not incorporated into the soil. This is particularly so for high residue conditions. The nitrogen required for corn should be placed below crop residues. In high residue situations coulters may be necessary for proper placement.

 

Phosphate and Potash Phosphate (P) and potash (K) requirements are applied with the planter or drill as a starter fertilizer.

This is particularly important in no-till or ridge till systems when soil test levels are low. In high residue conditions, coulter in front of the fertilizer opener will improve placement. Requirements above what can be safely applied with the planter or drill should be broadcast. Tillage equipment can do a good job of incorporating fertilizers in a mulch till system. Coulters will do some incorporation of broadcast fertilizer in a no-till system. 

Note: Soil testing and fertilization are very important in any tillage system. Fertility levels should be at least in the medium range before starting no-till as it is hard to incorporate large amounts of fertilizer without tillage.

.......

 

I wonder if you could use your seed drill to drill fertilizer into the soil to one side of the rows? 

 

Good idea JB,

 

Would have to take the depth guage guides off but easy enough.

 

Also would have to offset the seeder for the wheel tracks but again should not be to hard as i have a dummy frame that could be modified,its currently on an old ridgid tyne corn planter that had different cat for smaller tractor.

 

Do you think a cover crop could be incorparated and if so do you have any recommendations of varieties.

[JungleBiker]

Do you think a cover crop could be incorparated and if so do you have any recommendations of varieties.

I'm not sure if you mean a cover crop between one crop of corn and the next crop or do you mean sowing a cover crop between the corn rows? I think you mean the latter 'cos I guess you may be thinking of using the seed drill to sow a cover crop (or intercrop) at the same time as drilling fertilizer... If so, then I think it would be counter productive. I expect the cover crop would compete with the corn (for nutrients, water and light), just like the weeds. Even if it was later incorporated it would take time for the nutrients to be released from the decomposing cover crop. It might benefit the next crop but not the current crop.

But regarding cover crops or green manure crops, one that I've seen around is sun hemp. I think you'll find some info already exists in this farming forum and/or someone else may chip in.

I know a project in Laos where they advise hill farmers to intercrop corn with soybeans or peanuts, but the farmers harvest by hand, not with combines, so they can cope with the two crops growing together.

JB.

[pigeonjake]

i know im not a corn grower like some on here, we grow a little for our own use and to give to the pigs,

i put plenty of pig manure into the soil with my rottery tiller,

also between crops i grow mung been, not for the seed, i just till it into the soil before it sets seed, as in green manure,

its a bit to wet here at the moment to even get my little L200 onto our land, ill post a couple of pics when i get it done,

good reading though, im enjoying it, being from farming stock in the uk(lincolnshire) and worked on the land all through my school days doing everything from pea pulling to beat hoeing and everything inbetween,,lol

[loong]

i know im not a corn grower like some on here, we grow a little for our own use and to give to the pigs,

i put plenty of pig manure into the soil with my rottery tiller,

also between crops i grow mung been, not for the seed, i just till it into the soil before it sets seed, as in green manure,

its a bit to wet here at the moment to even get my little L200 onto our land, ill post a couple of pics when i get it done,

good reading though, im enjoying it, being from farming stock in the uk(lincolnshire) and worked on the land all through my school days doing everything from pea pulling to beat hoeing and everything inbetween,,lol

Everything that I have read says not to use pig manure on food crops unless it has been properly hot composted first. This is because of the risk of pathogens from the pig manure contaminating the food

[pigeonjake]

loong,

we have 2 compost heaps,

1 that is ready and 1 that is just started,

well rotted poo, with straw from the bedding, grass cuttings from the lawns, banana leaves, everything goes into it, then into the soil,

ill take a pic tomorow of cousin sugers suger the row that is on our boundry must be 2 ft higher then the rest of the field, as its right against a run off trench from only 2 of our pens, its unbelievable, he has niticed as he asked for the water out of our run off pond for his suger, but we have fish in there,

sorry joe,, ill let you get back to corn,

ill put tomorows pics in the farming photo thread,

jake

[farmerjo]

Do you think a cover crop could be incorparated and if so do you have any recommendations of varieties.

I'm not sure if you mean a cover crop between one crop of corn and the next crop or do you mean sowing a cover crop between the corn rows? I think you mean the latter 'cos I guess you may be thinking of using the seed drill to sow a cover crop (or intercrop) at the same time as drilling fertilizer... If so, then I think it would be counter productive. I expect the cover crop would compete with the corn (for nutrients, water and light), just like the weeds. Even if it was later incorporated it would take time for the nutrients to be released from the decomposing cover crop. It might benefit the next crop but not the current crop.

But regarding cover crops or green manure crops, one that I've seen around is sun hemp. I think you'll find some info already exists in this farming forum and/or someone else may chip in.

I know a project in Laos where they advise hill farmers to intercrop corn with soybeans or peanuts, but the farmers harvest by hand, not with combines, so they can cope with the two crops growing together.

JB.

Yes you're right it would be counter productive for the 1st season crop.

Could be allright for the second planting in july-august.

Ideally i would be looking for a low growing plant like clover or a type of grass thats controlable.

I've been having a read thru green manures in the organic section,some great reading there.

[farmerjo]

After we get some rain to freshen the weeds up i will be looking to apply a post emergent herbicide.

Probably attraize will be easiest to get in granule form.

Anybody out there have knowledge of rates applied in thailand per/rai.(not knap sack spraying)and working days to take effect.

Read a few brand labels on internet and they suggest about 480 grams/rai in tropics like queensland.

I know it depends on leaf stage and density of weeds,

Just found an old study in thailand saying they used 240 grams/rai.

Edited May 4, 2015 by farmerjo

[kickstart]

Green manure ,would work well ,sun hemp, has been talked about,also where to find the seed,what I can gather, not easy to find.

Pigeonpea,something I would like, has been wrote about.

Growing clover ,red or white is a good idea, dairy farmers in NZ use it a lot ,and organic dairy farmers grow it in the uk, with some good results.

But here in Thailand,I do not think it will grow,to hot ,you might find a window,when it might do something,but it will not when you want it,

The biggest problem is lack of seed,never seen it in Thailand,not in the DLD's list of seeds.

A lot has been wrote about mung beans as a green manure,Konnwan has a piece in the cassava thead,he grows them , before planting cassava, and for you they would be easy ,they are a combinable crop,you could grow a few rie and keep the seeds for when you need them,

The plates in the drill may need changing, to smaller holes.

Re Attraize, as they say when all else fails read the instructions on the box ,on an granular packet I have it says 270-350 grams in 60-70 liters of water per rie a bit of a wide range ,it does say when they is some moisture in the soil, I last used some before planting some Nappier grass ,soil to dry, on top,, underneath there was some moisture and I used the upper rates,grass weeds still grew.

KS

[farmerjo]

Green manure ,would work well ,sun hemp, has been talked about,also where to find the seed,what I can gather, not easy to find.

Pigeonpea,something I would like, has been wrote about.

Growing clover ,red or white is a good idea, dairy farmers in NZ use it a lot ,and organic dairy farmers grow it in the uk, with some good results.

But here in Thailand,I do not think it will grow,to hot ,you might find a window,when it might do something,but it will not when you want it,

The biggest problem is lack of seed,never seen it in Thailand,not in the DLD's list of seeds.

A lot has been wrote about mung beans as a green manure,Konnwan has a piece in the cassava thead,he grows them , before planting cassava, and for you they would be easy ,they are a combinable crop,you could grow a few rie and keep the seeds for when you need them,

The plates in the drill may need changing, to smaller holes.

Re Attraize, as they say when all else fails read the instructions on the box ,on an granular packet I have it says 270-350 grams in 60-70 liters of water per rie a bit of a wide range ,it does say when they is some moisture in the soil, I last used some before planting some Nappier grass ,soil to dry, on top,, underneath there was some moisture and I used the upper rates,grass weeds still grew.

KS

Thank KS,

Your thai reading is alot better than mine.

Its a damed if you do or dont situation,i didn't use attrazine as a pre emergent because i thought it was to dry and was worried about runoff into water ways if we had a big rain in a short time.Now its about manning up and putting enough rate on in conjuction with a wetter without hurting the maize plant .

With the jet size on my sprayer,bar working pressure and speed i travel it works out that i put 38 litres per rai of water out,that way i can do 20 rai on a tankfull and minimize handling of chemicals.

I've read thru the green manure thread with interest but have decided its more about weed control for me.

Personally i dont think the benefits and costs associated with the amount nutrients produced in green manuring outway buying chemical fertilizer.However growing something like sunn hemp for seed sales could work with a bit of tinkering to the combine harvester and purchase of a gravity table to clean the seed but where do you stop.Will concentrate on trying to grow a viable maize crop for the time being.

Edited May 5, 2015 by farmerjo

[farmerjo]

So today is day 15 since planted,missus off to town to get the atrazine and will have a crack at spraying tomorrow weather permitting.

 

It still looks a bit pale in colour,not sure if thats because the fertilizer hasn't leached down to the root zone yet.

[slapout]

looks like a decent stand and color not too bad. maybe a little thirsty but a shower and a kick of fertilizer brings corn back quick.

we used to raise what was called ''rabbit corn'' it matured quickly and its height was about 2 1/2 foot at maturity. thus the name rabbits were tall enough to nibble it. usually only i cob per plant , not to big but sweet and always was ready first.

[farmerjo]

Yes it needs a good drink,the corn on the no-till is standing up much better than a piece i tilled which has gone into drought mode.

 

Got the sprayer going this morning and did 30 rai,had a few complications.

 

Firstly missus went to get me atrizine yesterday and came back with ametryn so she ended up doing 2 trips.

 

Thought about using it but a quick google it said do not apply direct to corn plant,the lady who sold to my wifr said mai ben rai.

 

Righto onto spraying with atrizine,somewhere in my thoughts i thought i would increase the water to chemical ratio so it was compatable to the label.

In doing so i forgot to halve the chemical rate accordingly so instead of applying 350 grams a rai it got 700.

Hope i get some rain to wash it of the leaves

 

To hot atm so will put another tank out late this afternoon.

 

Here's a couple of pics of sprayer and spraying down the rows.

. 

[farmerjo]

Nothing much happening at the moment while waiting for the atrazine to kick in,well i hope is does else i will be buying a hay baler.

 

Thought i'd post a pic of the neighbours plot about 2-3 rai.

 

Contractor to 3 disc then 7 disc and seed(999).Planted 4 days ago,he's been busy with the knapsack sprayer spraying pre emergence chemical out.

 

Think its a atrazine 90 but not sure cause all thai written packet.Weve also had 43mm of rain over last 4 days and its just starting to germinate in places.

 

[kickstart]

FJ

Looking at that last photo ,that looks allmost to wet for the Atrazine to work,they say you need some moisture,not water sat in the field.

Is that land clay land like yours,or old rice paddy's,either way it looks like the field could do with a good sub soiling,or a chisal plough ,going though it ,help with drainage,get rid of some of that suface water.

Was buying some white maize seed ,for a large garden ,back of the house, that was a lot of bamboo ,but it nearly all of it has fiowered and died , we pulled all the old clumps out ,put a load of cow manure on ,now awaiting some rain,should be a good crop land not been worked for at least12 years

.

While I was buying the maize seed, the shop ,sells all type of maize seed,fertilizer, sprayes ect ,the owner is allso one of the bigest buyers of maize in the area,I asked him what is the most popular seed verity this year he said S6248 and S7328 ,they superseded the popular verity,round here NK48.,also Percific seeds are popular, I think 999 is Percific.

He told me S6248 and S7328 are also verity,s , that "Hack -Nie"or easy to harvest by hand , leaves around the cob do not stick to cob,my first thought on that was ,if the leaves are not coming away easy the crop is not ready to harvest.

As an old farm fitter I knew in the uk said "If you think your corn is ready for harvesting .......go on hoilday for a week ,then come back ,and it will be ready".

Before we even think about harversting,some rain would be nice,a few crops round here are looking , err, bit dry.

[farmerjo]

Hi KS,

The neighbours is newland just cleared 2 years ago

I forgot to mention after it was ready to seed he saturated it with water,he does that on all his maize crops

Unfortunately he's been caught by the rain as well.(thats the beauty of internet looking up the weather forecast)

Should drain resonably quickly but i'd say he doesn't want any rain for a while.

Meanwhile his neighbour me wants as much as i can get.

999 seed from pacific is popular around here.

Interesting having a drive around after 14mm yesterday and seeing the amount of erosion in the area mainly on freshly planted cassava fields.

On the sub soiling i've already marked a few spots out that need doing after this crop.

Edited May 14, 2015 by farmerjo

[wayned]

This was planted 17 days ago, PAC777, after a night of soaking rain. Since then there has been no rain . There has been thunder lightening, power outages but despite my best rain making skills ( washing the truck and leaving it parked in the front yard, washing clothes in the late afternoon and leaving them hang overnight). It is in dire need of moisture and much like last year, where the yield was down about 75%, mother nature isn't cooperating.

[farmerjo]

Hope you guys get some rain soon.

 

Here's a couple of pics,27 days old.There's the good the bad and the ugly.

 

The yellow stuff has me puzzled,its a lot of new land with no organic matter(or little)must be lacking alot of nutrients or its ground hardness or just lacks vigour.

 

Its all had the same fertilizer rates,chemical applications and rainfall.

 

Did a 10 rai application of fish extract liquid fertilizer on the yellow dormant stuff today to see if it gives it a kick.

 

We've had 102mm of rain since planting but digging around today,moisture is down about 40mm from top.

 

Off to a weed and fertilizer seminar tomorrow to try to work a few things out.