Any product that will stop leak at water pipe join?

[Gulfsailor]

2 component epoxy adhesive will bond excellent with both concrete and the pvc water pipe. You can't use it for most flexible or smooth plastics though (polyethylene, nylon, Delrin, etc.).

[IMHO]

If paint is not removed you will not have a joint...It ain't glue, the solution melts the plastic to become 'one'..

I think this guy was a cowboy, he even had to borrow a hacksaw blade to cut the pipe. Lesson learned, if you want a job done well, do it yourself.

Cutting PVC pipes with a hacksaw is still a bit cowboy-ish

[giddyup]

If paint is not removed you will not have a joint...It ain't glue, the solution melts the plastic to become 'one'..

I think this guy was a cowboy, he even had to borrow a hacksaw blade to cut the pipe. Lesson learned, if you want a job done well, do it yourself.

Cutting PVC pipes with a hacksaw is still a bit cowboy-ish

What else would he use?

[Crossy]

Cutting PVC pipes with a hacksaw is still a bit cowboy-ish

What else would he use?

A PVC pipe cutter.

Like this;-

Readily available in DIY stores.

[giddyup]

Cutting PVC pipes with a hacksaw is still a bit cowboy-ish

What else would he use?

A PVC pipe cutter.

Like this;-

PVC-Pipe-Cutters-1.jpg

Readily available in DIY stores.

Come on, these guys use a screwdriver as a cold chisel, I doubt if he would know what a PVC pipe cutter was.

[Rust Never Sleeps]

Re: transam, post 31

I think we have crossed wires here. I too will be putting 50 mm PVC piping up the through the walls of our house. The walls will be double brick with a cavity,

hence no lagging required. I was making reference to CONCRETE being poured hard up all around the PVC pipe in the slab. I was only relating this to

current Australian building practices as advice that COULD be considered.

I am confident and hope that the scenario that you described with your house will be fine.

[sandyf]

The walls will be double brick with a cavity,

You say 'will' as though the house is not built yet.

Word of warning. My house is cavity wall construction and the builders seem to think the cavity was a readily available rubbish tip. Several times we had to mention to the builder about it. Fortunately I lived on site and went round every evening for a quick check.

[giddyup]

Now suggestions for a simple way to protect the pipe against knocks etc

[bankruatsteve]

Yah. It would have been simple enough to have it rest on the step (and cover things up a bit). Anyway... you can put a "U" clamp on the upper wall just above the elbow and if the tap doesn't have one, another there as well.

[giddyup]

Yah. It would have been simple enough to have it rest on the step (and cover things up a bit). Anyway... you can put a "U" clamp on the upper wall just above the elbow and if the tap doesn't have one, another there as well.

I agree, but I was happy just for the guy to come back and fix the leak, not too worried about the cosmetic appearance. Already have two saddles, one just under the tap and one further down the wall. I need to put something around the pipe at the base to prevent it being damaged.

Edited September 25, 2015 by giddyup

[bankruatsteve]

Yah. It would have been simple enough to have it rest on the step (and cover things up a bit). Anyway... you can put a "U" clamp on the upper wall just above the elbow and if the tap doesn't have one, another there as well.

I agree, but I was happy just for the guy to come back and fix the leak, not too worried about the cosmetic appearance. Already have two saddles, one just under the tap and one further down the wall. I need to put something around the pipe at the base to prevent it being damaged.

That should be OK then. Or, how to you envision it being damaged?

[johng]

That should be OK then. Or, how to you envision it being damaged?

Probably by a little rascal smashing their bicycle into it.

[steven100]

You need to hire a compressor and jackhammer with hoses to break the concrete around the pipe. ( use to be coates hire, but not sure here )

Then hire a backhoe or excavator to remove the rubble after the concrete is broken.

Get a consultant civil engineer to come and inspect the pipe after exposure. You may need to contract it out to Italian-Thai company or similar.

Get a quote to provide drawings ... again this will be done by a construction company.

Based on the drawings get an estimator to calculate how much new pipe, concrete & re-bar you need. Then order the quantities ....

Have the construction company install everything, reinstate all work and paint if needed.

[bankruatsteve]

That should be OK then. Or, how to you envision it being damaged?

Probably by a little rascal smashing their bicycle into it.

If it's in a traffic area, it wouldn't take much for a cement guy to build a box around where it comes up from the concrete. Make things look better.

[giddyup]

Yah. It would have been simple enough to have it rest on the step (and cover things up a bit). Anyway... you can put a "U" clamp on the upper wall just above the elbow and if the tap doesn't have one, another there as well.

I agree, but I was happy just for the guy to come back and fix the leak, not too worried about the cosmetic appearance. Already have two saddles, one just under the tap and one further down the wall. I need to put something around the pipe at the base to prevent it being damaged.

That should be OK then. Or, how to you envision it being damaged?

It's out side the laundry where the clothes line on wheels gets moved around a bit, too easy to hit the pipe.

[giddyup]

You need to hire a compressor and jackhammer with hoses to break the concrete around the pipe. ( use to be coates hire, but not sure here )

Then hire a backhoe or excavator to remove the rubble after the concrete is broken.

Get a consultant civil engineer to come and inspect the pipe after exposure. You may need to contract it out to Italian-Thai company or similar.

Get a quote to provide drawings ... again this will be done by a construction company.

Based on the drawings get an estimator to calculate how much new pipe, concrete & re-bar you need. Then order the quantities ....

Have the construction company install everything, reinstate all work and paint if needed.

Don't give up your day job.

[sandyf]

Now suggestions for a simple way to protect the pipe against knocks etc

The simplest solution is to put a piece of wood between the elbows and the top of the concrete, fix the wood to the concrete and then clamp the pipe to the wood.

If you are into doing a bit of metal manipulation, you can get a length of aluminium strip and make your own support brackets, a bit like I did here.

[thaibeachlovers]

Here's a pic of the joint in question. The leak is weeping out of the top joint, if it can't be sealed in some way it means removing the cement, cutting the pipe and starting again.

Like others say, just cut the lower joint off, and route the new pipe over the top of the concrete. Use clamp to secure. Be sure to remove all burrs before gluing new pipe and dry pipe thoroughly before putting glue on both surfaces. Any water in the pipe joint and the join is doomed. I stick a paper towel down the pipe to lower the level ( of course you have to remove the paper before joining pipe ). Most shut off valves leak a bit, so be quick.

I don't know why anyone hires guys to do simple plumbing jobs. The plastic pipe is very easy to use. Just twist a bit when putting pipe on, but not much and be quick as the glue sets very quickly and is permanent.

[thaibeachlovers]

What is the water supply to the tap? If it's low pressure "city" supply you might get away with an external fix. Otherwise, I've never seen a leak fixed from the outside of pressurized pipe. Is the PVC painted? If so, I'm guessing the guy didn't sand off the paint before gluing the connection. I don't know how much epoxy costs, but a re-do of the PVC would just need a sleeve, 2 elbows, and say 20 cm of pipe and some glue which altogether shouldn't be more than about 40 baht.

Good luck buying 20 cm of pipe!

[Gary A]

The problem from the OP was an easy cut out and replace. I had a leak that would have required a lot of cutting and replacing. I took an old inner tube, wrapped it tightly around the leaking joint and used several radiator hose clamps to compress the rubber around the joint. That was several years ago and no leak yet.

[thaibeachlovers]

The problem from the OP was an easy cut out and replace. I had a leak that would have required a lot of cutting and replacing. I took an old inner tube, wrapped it tightly around the leaking joint and used several radiator hose clamps to compress the rubber around the joint. That was several years ago and no leak yet.

Yes, but the OP's problem is a simple cut and replace. Also, would have to break the concrete away from the top elbow to be able to wrap rubber around the join.