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Drove Off With the Tailgate Down-UPDATE


Daffy D

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Finally got round to finishing the tailgate warning light system (patent applied for whistling.gif )

Tried to get a nice light fitting for the dash, had pretty pictures printed out from the Internet to show but nobody round here had anything suitable so settled for a single 12v red LED, Can always change it later if necessary.

Took a plus/positive feed off the ignition switch accessory circuit to the light and then from the light ran a negative/ground to the tilt switch in the tailgate.

Played around with the tilt switch to see which angles worked so the light was on when the tailgate was in the down position and off when the tailgate was in the closed position.

Luckily (a bit of a novelty for me) inside the tailgate there was a supporting strut at just the right angle needed for the tilt switch to work.

Job done.thumbsup.gif

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Nice project.....I never remember leaving a tailgate down when I had pickups.....

One time though I was rolling along I5 in Calif about 70mph with my horse trailer......Someone radio'd me and gingerly asked me if I started with horses - because I didn't latch the trailer doors and they were wide open..... :-)

Edited by pgrahmm
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Folks where I come from drive with the tailgate down to get better fuel mileage.

Those are the ones that don't leave the tailgate in the garage and only put it on when they need it...

It's a cultural "thang."

8d87f1bed1d761246c2e260c82ad362a.jpg

Edited by Suradit69
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Folks where I come from drive with the tailgate down to get better fuel mileage.

Those are the ones that don't leave the tailgate in the garage and only put it on when they need it...

Mythbusters did a piece on that and it doesn't work rolleyes.gif

Seems with the tailgate up in the normal position a balloon of air builds up behind the cab in the cargo area which lets the air flow smoothly over the truck.

With the tailgate down there is no buildup of air in the cargo area so the air flowing over the cab is in constant turbulence slowing the vehicle down.

Mythbusters have spoken smile.png

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Can happen to anyone no matter how careful you are.

So can I interest you in a custom made to your specification door open warning light system? whistling.gif

biggrin.png

I could certainly have used this last year when we had the really bad flooding in Pattaya. Have a Super UP electric lid on the bed so you cannot see if open.

Dropped some people off at a bar after golf but because of the flooding (and chucking it down with rain) did not get out of the truck. Saw them go into the bar and presumed the tailgate was closed so closed the bed lid from inside the car and drove off.

It was only about 45 minutes later after pulling in to the Big C Extra car park having failed to find a way around the flooding to get home (and I was only coming from Soi Buakhow) that I discovered the tailgate was still open - and that fortunately my clubs were still in the back!

I had wondered why my reversing sensor had kept going off every time I reversed when there was nothing behind me...............facepalm.gif

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As a long time tinkerer with things like this,,, Can I make a suggestion?,,, instead of mounting the tilt switch, in the gate, and having to run the wire from the gate to the bed, which means without a disconnect plug you can't remove the gate if needed,, Mount a momentary contact, normally CLOSED switch on the bed, Possibly up on either side of the vertical portion,, A switch that is only open, while being pressed/held,,, position it so that when the gate is open, the switch is closed, triggering the dash light, when the gate is closed, it contacts the switch, pressing/holding it, OPENING it, which kills the dash light,, That way, you could easily remove the gate if needed, No need for a disconnecting plug, of course the dash light would be constantly lit, but an additional on/off switch in the cab, or even next to the gate switch could be used to kill the light, even with the gate removed, With what you have now,, you could easily add a disconnect plug, and then carry a "closed" half,, disconnect the plug, remove gate, plug in the closed half, light off,,, Back in the USA,, I had a Chevy Silverado, with a bed cover, that had latches on the inside of the bed, on either side, holding the cover closed,, I got into the gate latch handle, and added a selenoid, wired into the door locks,, So locking the doors, triggered the gate selinoid, locking it,,,, I added a disconnect plug to be able to remove the gate,,, Great work BTW,, just making a suggestion,,,

Edited by Adeeos
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Folks where I come from drive with the tailgate down to get better fuel mileage.

Those are the ones that don't leave the tailgate in the garage and only put it on when they need it...

It's a cultural "thang."

8d87f1bed1d761246c2e260c82ad362a.jpg

Kevin Bloody Wilson would appreciate it....complete with beer and vegemite sandwiches ...Aussies will know laugh.png

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Wind tunnel tests have shown that more more gas is used when the tale gate is down. Reason is that the wind coming over the cab curls back (like water over a waterfall) pulling the truck backward. If one follows a truck with the tail gate up and there are leaves or other light objects in the bed you might notice that the leaves never blow out of the bed. The air currents flow over the cab without affecting the trucvk.

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Wind tunnel tests have shown that more more gas is used when the tale gate is down. Reason is that the wind coming over the cab curls back (like water over a waterfall) pulling the truck backward. If one follows a truck with the tail gate up and there are leaves or other light objects in the bed you might notice that the leaves never blow out of the bed. The air currents flow over the cab without affecting the trucvk.

Wot I said in post #7 rolleyes.gif

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"Adeeos"

I did consider various switch options in my original post http://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/888054-so-i-drove-off-with-the-tailgate-down/

But decided on the tilt switch as it would be protected from the elements inside the body of the tailgate itself and no need for drilling any holes anywhere.

The Toyota tailgate has a revering camera and stop light array built into the tailgate so there is already cable conduit from car body to tailgate that I used to run the additional wires through for protection and also they don't show.

smile.png

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Daffy, looks like a really professional job. Just a thought - why not put a flasher unit in-line with the LED. This would make it more noticeable.

But then again, LED's are pretty bright so might be a waste of time.

I did something similar back home. Not for my tailgate, but to tell me the boat trailer was attached. Used to moor the boat some weekends and take the trailer home - other times I'd take the boat home. Had a 6L V8, so when the trailer was sans boat, the performance wasn't affected and I'd merrily be passing everything in sight and not leaving sufficient room. Plus I couldn't see the trailer in the mirrors until it started to fishtail. facepalm.giffacepalm.gif

I made a circuit and linked an electronic pulsing unit to the light as a constant reminder. Every time I glanced at the dashboard the yellow light was flashing vigorously.

I just had the circuit linked to the trailer power plug with a spare pin for earth. Trouble was, the circuit went live regardless of the boat being on the trailer or not.

I was going to put a pressure switch on the trailer so it would only light up when the boat wasn't attached, but then I got divorced and had to sell the cars, the boat, my motorbikes, and most of my watch collection. Bugger!!

Anyway, nice job you've done - think about the flasher as a retro-fit. thumbsup.gif

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Daffy, looks like a really professional job. Just a thought - why not put a flasher unit in-line with the LED. This would make it more noticeable.

But then again, LED's are pretty bright so might be a waste of time.

I did something similar back home. Not for my tailgate, but to tell me the boat trailer was attached. Used to moor the boat some weekends and take the trailer home - other times I'd take the boat home. Had a 6L V8, so when the trailer was sans boat, the performance wasn't affected and I'd merrily be passing everything in sight and not leaving sufficient room. Plus I couldn't see the trailer in the mirrors until it started to fishtail. facepalm.giffacepalm.gif

I made a circuit and linked an electronic pulsing unit to the light as a constant reminder. Every time I glanced at the dashboard the yellow light was flashing vigorously.

I just had the circuit linked to the trailer power plug with a spare pin for earth. Trouble was, the circuit went live regardless of the boat being on the trailer or not.

I was going to put a pressure switch on the trailer so it would only light up when the boat wasn't attached, but then I got divorced and had to sell the cars, the boat, my motorbikes, and most of my watch collection. Bugger!!

Anyway, nice job you've done - think about the flasher as a retro-fit. thumbsup.gif

Noooooo flashers on this forum chummy............laugh.png

Are winkers allowed? blink.pngthumbsup.gif

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Wind tunnel tests have shown that more more gas is used when the tale gate is down. Reason is that the wind coming over the cab curls back (like water over a waterfall) pulling the truck backward. If one follows a truck with the tail gate up and there are leaves or other light objects in the bed you might notice that the leaves never blow out of the bed. The air currents flow over the cab without affecting the trucvk.

I see drag racing trucks with the tail gate open...

And I see race pickups with the beds covered.

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I see drag racing trucks with the tail gate open...

And I see race pickups with the beds covered.

When I put a lid on my truck it really did transform the ride at speed...Especially in shit weather, rain and wind...

Real cowboys don't put lids on their truck beds. How ya gonna toss the Shiner empties out the window and into the bed if it's got a lid?

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I see drag racing trucks with the tail gate open...

And I see race pickups with the beds covered.

When I put a lid on my truck it really did transform the ride at speed...Especially in shit weather, rain and wind...

Real cowboys don't put lids on their truck beds. How ya gonna toss the Shiner empties out the window and into the bed if it's got a lid?

Racers do it because of the bad air in the tub makes the wing almost useless.

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And I see race pickups with the beds covered.
When I put a lid on my truck it really did transform the ride at speed...Especially in shit weather, rain and wind...

Real cowboys don't put lids on their truck beds. How ya gonna toss the Shiner empties out the window and into the bed if it's got a lid?

Racers do it because of the bad air in the tub makes the wing almost useless.

Racers probably don't slam down a six-pack of Shiners on their way down the 1/4 mile... So we'll give them a pass, even if they're cowboys.

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On a more technical note, regarding the non-mercury tilt switch, wouldn't it have been easier and cheaper to use a pushbutton switch like the one that turns on your dome light when the door's open?

Does the tilt switch cause the LED to wink at you (Gsxrnz's terminology) when you go over bumps, or is it immune to inertial contact?

Next project: Mount an LED light in the bed that turns on when you have the tailgate down so you can see all the empties that you have to throw away when you get home after dark. Before the wife sees how many you slammed back on your way home...

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When I put a lid on my truck it really did transform the ride at speed...Especially in shit weather, rain and wind...

Real cowboys don't put lids on their truck beds. How ya gonna toss the Shiner empties out the window and into the bed if it's got a lid?

Racers do it because of the bad air in the tub makes the wing almost useless.

Racers probably don't slam down a six-pack of Shiners on their way down the 1/4 mile... So we'll give them a pass, even if they're cowboys.

Racing iam talking about has corners.

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Real cowboys don't put lids on their truck beds. How ya gonna toss the Shiner empties out the window and into the bed if it's got a lid?

Racers do it because of the bad air in the tub makes the wing almost useless.

Racers probably don't slam down a six-pack of Shiners on their way down the 1/4 mile... So we'll give them a pass, even if they're cowboys.

Racing iam talking about has corners.

Probably still has rules about slamming down beers...

On a more serious side, the deal with an open bed- In states with open container laws, you can be arrested for having an empty beer can in the passenger compartment of the vehicle. So a lot of guys I've known have learned how to toss the empties back into the bed while driving at high speed. The 3 other choices are : 1) no beers, 2) risk arrest, and 3) litter.

When I first moved to Texas in the '70's, it was legal to drink a beer while driving. The blood alcohol limit was as strictly enforced as anywhere else, but there were no open container laws. For a lot of Texans, the ban on having a beer on your way home from work was almost the trigger for Texas to secede from the US of A. For years, there was also a hot market for sleeves that made beer cans look like Coke cans. Seems they kept the beer habit and learned to dispose of the evidence in an environmentally friendly way.

That doesn't work with a bed lid, so those people took a lot of kidding... Strangely, the vortex that allegedly creates the drag and reduces fuel mileage with the tailgate down, also keeps the empties from blowing out of the bed- even with the tailgate missing.

(Me, I took the oath and quit drinking in '88)

Edited by impulse
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On a more technical note, regarding the non-mercury tilt switch, wouldn't it have been easier and cheaper to use a pushbutton switch like the one that turns on your dome light when the door's open?

Does the tilt switch cause the LED to wink at you (Gsxrnz's terminology) when you go over bumps, or is it immune to inertial contact?

Next project: Mount an LED light in the bed that turns on when you have the tailgate down so you can see all the empties that you have to throw away when you get home after dark. Before the wife sees how many you slammed back on your way home...

My initial idea was for a push button door switch like the one for the interior light, but it was going to be a difficult fit with the matching surfaces between the truck body and the tailgate. Also the gap between the truck body and tailgate to activate the switch would have to be reduced and obviously the switch would have been exposed to all weather conditions.

So a lot of messing about with drilling holes fabricating small brackets and all that, a switch inside the body of the tailgate seemed the obvious answer.

As mentioned earlier my Toyota tailgate has a reversing camera and brake light cluster fitted already so cable conduit and earth connections were already in place, so easy to fit the switch connections.

Have not used the "Tailgate warning light system" (Patent pending thumbsup.gif ) long enough yet to know if the LED is going to wink or even blink, only drive on normal roads so would imagine not. If it does it would obviously be a built in test design feature to ensure the system is working whistling.gif

I already have a string of white LED's mounted on the "roll over" bar to see when unloading/loading at night. These are controlled by an illuminated switch in the cab through the accessory circuit. Had not thought about connecting through the tailgate Hmm! wink.png

That beer can throwing thing doesn't work with a double cab, they just fly into the back seat sad.png

Or if the rear window is closed bounce off into the road w00t.gif

Edited by Daffy D
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That beer can throwing thing doesn't work with a double cab, they just fly into the back seat

Or if the rear window is closed bounce off into the road

Worst thing that happened to me before I took the oath was when I forgot to even open the window. Scared the crap out of myself, and was smelling stale beer in the cab for months.

I don't recall ever seeing one in Thailand, but sliding rear windows were also popular for poorly coordinated drinkers.

Real cowboys don't drive 4 door pickups, either. You seem to know one of the reasons.

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"Impulse"

Worst thing that happened to me before I took the oath was when I forgot to even open the window. Scared the crap out of myself, and was smelling stale beer in the cab for months. post-4641-1156693976.gif

Instant Karma for throwing away a can that still had some beer in it w00t.gif

Still brownie points for admitting to such a despicable act on this forum drunk.gif

biggrin.png

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Daffy D I used to run a small garage business. I used to do quite a bit of auto electrical work. I think your set up is very neat and well thought out.

If you want to be really technical it should perhaps have a low capacity inline fuse close to the auxillary feed take off - but its only going to protect the short length of wire to the LED. Any fault that might later develop with age beyond the LED causing a short to earth (ground) would just put the light on.

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Thanks "Lancashirelad" - It did turn out quite nice smile.png

I take your point about an inline fuse. As you say the "danger " area is very short only a few inches from ignition switch to LED. I made a soldered connection, covered with heat shrink AND then covered with electrical tape so not much chance of wire coming loose.

Not much chance of a short in that small space I would think, but if wires did start to smoke it would be right under my nose, so to speak , and just turning off the key would cut the power.

In addition to that I would have thought the accessory circuit would have built in fuse somewhere anyway.

I think that covers it biggrin.png

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