primer for outside walls?

[thai3]

Thought it best to try and do it properly so started off with a primer, the paint on there is poor and a bit chalky. Bought TOA contact primer right for this sort of job it says, but never used it before so surprised to see it's clear. I understand you can tint it but just used it as is, goes on easily but of course no covering advantage. Going to put 2 top coats of TOA super shield on but now i'm halfway with the primer I'm wondering if it's right putting it on clear?

[Pib]

I expect the contact primer also had a sticky feel to it as it suppose to have additional "adhesive" power if you have a wall spot where it seems paint just don't want to stick...like bubbles up during rainy season. Clear primer is usually best for new walls versus walls where you are painting over previous paint. I've used both the clear, sticky, adhesive primer and the tinted, white, non sticky primer. I prefer the the white primer as it seems to provide just as good long term base/adhesion for the topcoat paint. And almost always I see house painters using the white tinted primer. The clear/sticky/adhesive primer is also thin like water, has a greater coverage area per volume...or at least the clear primer (TOA and 4 Seasons) I've used off and on over the years on my house and fence walls.

[thai3]

Yes that's the stuff sticky said on the tin for previous painted walls which was why I got it, at least it goes on very easy and covers well. I thought there might be something wrong with it. The trouble is the original paint by the builders was very poor stuff and the primmer bubbles some of it up and off. Thanks for the info.

[Pib]

Yeap...same for me...putting contract primer over old paint would sometimes cause it to almost immediately bubble-up/come loose...then I had to scrap that off and put more primer on again.

[Ahnsahn]

Yep...same for me...putting contract primer over old paint would sometimes cause it to almost immediately bubble-up/come loose...then I had to scrap that off and put more primer on again.

Yes that's the stuff sticky said on the tin for previous painted walls which was why I got it, at least it goes on very easy and covers well. I thought there might be something wrong with it. The trouble is the original paint by the builders was very poor stuff and the primmer bubbles some of it up and off. Thanks for the info.

Good important points about primer brought up here!

I want to apply 2 coats of quality paint(Dulux?) to a previously painted exterior wall. Would it be professionally sound to apply a coat of primer on this wall if the wall had been initially painted with only a coat of cheap (now chalky-like) paint?

Is it common practice to also apply primer to interior walls?

Edited April 11, 2016 by Ahnsahn

[Pib]

Yep...same for me...putting contract primer over old paint would sometimes cause it to almost immediately bubble-up/come loose...then I had to scrap that off and put more primer on again.

Yes that's the stuff sticky said on the tin for previous painted walls which was why I got it, at least it goes on very easy and covers well. I thought there might be something wrong with it. The trouble is the original paint by the builders was very poor stuff and the primmer bubbles some of it up and off. Thanks for the info.

Good important points about primer brought up here!

I want to apply 2 coats of quality paint(Dulux?) to a previously painted exterior wall. Would it be professionally sound to apply a coat of primer on this wall if the wall had been initially painted with only a coat of cheap (now chalky-like) paint?

Is it common practice to also apply primer to interior walls?

Yes. That's how the painters painted my 2 story house late Dec 14 with ICI Dulux paint and primer....I bought/supplied the paint & primer myself...wanted to ensure quality paint and primer was used of my choosing...wanted to ensure they just didn't put low quality paint/primer in quality/brand name paint cans and just say it was quality primer/paint of Brand XYZ.. But actually, the guy (and his team) who painted our house work in our large Bangkok moobaan year-round and has always done high quality work for the many years I've known them. But if the paint you are painting over is still in good condition and it's not a significant color change you can skip the primer....it would be better using primer but really not needed.

Anytime I see painters painting the exterior of home or fence walls in my mooban they first use primer and then paint...otherwise the paint won't last as long, bubble off much easier during the rainy season, just don't adhere nearly as well. Even out in my MIL's village in the province they use primer on exterior walls although they seem to usually go with the cheap primer & paint.

After almost 16 months the paint is still rock solid on the walls and looks like new. Numerous people have complimented the wife and I in how it still looks new...we just say used quality paint and had a good painter. ICI Dulux is definitely a quality paint with long lasting color in this rough tropical environment. But I knew it would still look great because Dulux paints are very fade resistance from my painting of my yard perimeter walls with Dulux paint 7 years ago...I just don't a paint manufacturer's word for it. My next door neighbor painted his fence perimeter walls with a mid-quality/price Berger paint almost same color a year after I painted my fence walls with Dulux...his walls are faded badly....mine still look very good...only slight color fading over 7 years.

Recommend you use Semi-gloss versus Flat as semi-gloss gets less dirty and cleans easier than than flat. I've always used ICI Dulux WeatherShield Ultima Semi-Gloss on the house and fence walls...and ICI Dulux WeatherShield Power Plus Primer when painting the house Dec 14. See spec attachments below for paint and primer.

Primer on interior walls should be used also as it just provides a better base for the all important topcoat paint. But usually primer is less important for interior walls due to a less harsh environment, usually smooth walls, etc....no sun and rain beating on interior walls. Now if you are making a significant change in color of the interior walls then use primer as it cheaper than paint and you'll need to use less paint to get an even color.

And be sure to check out paint/primer prices at your local Mom and Pop stores that specialize primarily in painting products....I've always found them to be around 20% cheaper than HomePro, Global, Thai Watsadu type big hardware stores....you are not getting no paint bargains in those big stores even with all there supposedly paint promotions/sales. But I live in Bangkok and have a lot of stores to choose from, especially a large number of small stores. Before I painted my house Dec 14 I first priced the ICI paint/primer in those big box stores and a couple of small stores specializing in painting products....I bought the paint/primer at a small paint produces/hardware store at a little over 20% cheaper than at those big stores...and when you are painting a house that 20% adds up to some real savings.

Summary: go with quality primer/paint especially in this harsh tropical environment for exterior painting.

dulux-weathershield-power-plus-primereng.pdf

dulux-weathershield-ultima-sgeng (1).pdf

[thai3]

I like dulux and jotun is good, all the top ones are decent, but not found the local stores much cheaper if anything than home pro. Just off now to check home pro prices against the local store. Left to the mrs the cheapest crap would be used, they don't seem to understand it will only last a 2-4 years before it needs re doing and is therefore more expensive. Try to point out the walls here less than 4 years old with all the paint peeling off cos no primer and cheap Chinese paint was used.

[meatboy]

we are also in the process of choosing the right paint.the house has been up 8yrs.come nov.and is not looking too bad until you do a patch then you see the diff.no primer was used by the builders just paint and WATER.

its a big house originally 5beds.so we are going to need quite a bit.the colours on now are top half light cream with the btm.half sandstone.

so its definately due for a change.

had a look at jotun nice colours,

toa out.

so we will have a look at dulux. and nippon.

[thai3]

problem with paint is getting the right colour the swatches are not a lot to go on- often too dark or light as printing ink is not the same as paint, just got 9 litres of something that looks far too light, almost white and nothing like in the book, just have to get a darker 2nd coat. They really should have proper paint samples in shops instead of colour swatches.

[Ahnsahn]

Yep...same for me...putting contract primer over old paint would sometimes cause it to almost immediately bubble-up/come loose...then I had to scrap that off and put more primer on again.

Yes that's the stuff sticky said on the tin for previous painted walls which was why I got it, at least it goes on very easy and covers well. I thought there might be something wrong with it. The trouble is the original paint by the builders was very poor stuff and the primmer bubbles some of it up and off. Thanks for the info.

Good important points about primer brought up here!

I want to apply 2 coats of quality paint(Dulux?) to a previously painted exterior wall. Would it be professionally sound to apply a coat of primer on this wall if the wall had been initially painted with only a coat of cheap (now chalky-like) paint?

Is it common practice to also apply primer to interior walls?

Yes. That's how the painters painted my 2 story house late Dec 14 with ICI Dulux paint and primer....I bought/supplied the paint & primer myself...wanted to ensure quality paint and primer was used of my choosing...wanted to ensure they just didn't put low quality paint/primer in quality/brand name paint cans and just say it was quality primer/paint of Brand XYZ.. But actually, the guy (and his team) who painted our house work in our large Bangkok moobaan year-round and has always done high quality work for the many years I've known them. But if the paint you are painting over is still in good condition and it's not a significant color change you can skip the primer....it would be better using primer but really not needed.

Anytime I see painters painting the exterior of home or fence walls in my mooban they first use primer and then paint...otherwise the paint won't last as long, bubble off much easier during the rainy season, just don't adhere nearly as well. Even out in my MIL's village in the province they use primer on exterior walls although they seem to usually go with the cheap primer & paint.

After almost 16 months the paint is still rock solid on the walls and looks like new. Numerous people have complimented the wife and I in how it still looks new...we just say used quality paint and had a good painter. ICI Dulux is definitely a quality paint with long lasting color in this rough tropical environment. But I knew it would still look great because Dulux paints are very fade resistance from my painting of my yard perimeter walls with Dulux paint 7 years ago...I just don't a paint manufacturer's word for it. My next door neighbor painted his fence perimeter walls with a mid-quality/price Berger paint almost same color a year after I painted my fence walls with Dulux...his walls are faded badly....mine still look very good...only slight color fading over 7 years.

Recommend you use Semi-gloss versus Flat as semi-gloss gets less dirty and cleans easier than than flat. I've always used ICI Dulux WeatherShield Ultima Semi-Gloss on the house and fence walls...and ICI Dulux WeatherShield Power Plus Primer when painting the house Dec 14. See spec attachments below for paint and primer.

Primer on interior walls should be used also as it just provides a better base for the all important topcoat paint. But usually primer is less important for interior walls due to a less harsh environment, usually smooth walls, etc....no sun and rain beating on interior walls. Now if you are making a significant change in color of the interior walls then use primer as it cheaper than paint and you'll need to use less paint to get an even color.

And be sure to check out paint/primer prices at your local Mom and Pop stores that specialize primarily in painting products....I've always found them to be around 20% cheaper than HomePro, Global, Thai Watsadu type big hardware stores....you are not getting no paint bargains in those big stores even with all there supposedly paint promotions/sales. But I live in Bangkok and have a lot of stores to choose from, especially a large number of small stores. Before I painted my house Dec 14 I first priced the ICI paint/primer in those big box stores and a couple of small stores specializing in painting products....I bought the paint/primer at a small paint produces/hardware store at a little over 20% cheaper than at those big stores...and when you are painting a house that 20% adds up to some real savings.

Summary: go with quality primer/paint especially in this harsh tropical environment for exterior painting.

Thanks for the first hand info....I will be following your lead and going solely with Dulux...and insisting that no one dilutes anything. Now I understand why the first exterior coat of paint on my house is so 'chalky' - its probably one of the cheaper brands!

[Pib]

Now the painter will want to dilute the primer and paint somewhat which allows easier painting...spreads the primer and paint farther....both can thicken once the can is open and they slowly start to dry. Will need to buy basic/low cost thinner to dilute the primer...this will allow the primer to go on easier...spread further...the thinner just evaporates as the primer dries. You can dilute paint...just use clean water...the water just evaporates. . Just don't dilute more than the directions for the paint/thinner. I always dilute paint and usually thinner by around 10%. The Dulux directions say you can dilute up to 10%.

[Ahnsahn]

Now the painter will want to dilute the primer and paint somewhat which allows easier painting...spreads the primer and paint farther....both can thicken once the can is open and they slowly start to dry. Will need to buy basic/low cost thinner to dilute the primer...this will allow the primer to go on easier...spread further...the thinner just evaporates as the primer dries. You can dilute paint...just use clean water...the water just evaporates. . Just don't dilute more than the directions for the paint/thinner. I always dilute paint and usually thinner by around 10%. The Dulux directions say you can dilute up to 10%.

Thanks for the additional information!

So, in addition to the paint and primer, I will also buy a thinner to dilute the primer. I 'will' dilute both paint and primer to ~8%

[meatboy]

Now the painter will want to dilute the primer and paint somewhat which allows easier painting...spreads the primer and paint farther....both can thicken once the can is open and they slowly start to dry. Will need to buy basic/low cost thinner to dilute the primer...this will allow the primer to go on easier...spread further...the thinner just evaporates as the primer dries. You can dilute paint...just use clean water...the water just evaporates. . Just don't dilute more than the directions for the paint/thinner. I always dilute paint and usually thinner by around 10%. The Dulux directions say you can dilute up to 10%.

Thanks for the additional information!

So, in addition to the paint and primer, I will also buy a thinner to dilute the primer. I 'will' dilute both paint and primer to ~8%

whats your take on base paints,we experianced a bad mix before,oweing to the machines not being cleaned.

i have seen all 5gallon tins are ready mixed.

[Pib]

Now the painter will want to dilute the primer and paint somewhat which allows easier painting...spreads the primer and paint farther....both can thicken once the can is open and they slowly start to dry. Will need to buy basic/low cost thinner to dilute the primer...this will allow the primer to go on easier...spread further...the thinner just evaporates as the primer dries. You can dilute paint...just use clean water...the water just evaporates. . Just don't dilute more than the directions for the paint/thinner. I always dilute paint and usually thinner by around 10%. The Dulux directions say you can dilute up to 10%.

Thanks for the additional information!

So, in addition to the paint and primer, I will also buy a thinner to dilute the primer. I 'will' dilute both paint and primer to ~8%

Yea, the primer is a solvent based product so you can't thin it with water....that's the main reason you see large cans of thinner sold in paint stores.

Plus paints like enamel which is frequent used on windows frames, baseboards, ceiling trim, stair rails, etc. are also solvent based so you need solvent based products to thin them.

[kamalabob2]

I've purchased house paint and primer in Buriram province since 2006. A couple of homes in the village and one home in a small town. I've bought name brand paint from the Buriram Home Mart | Buriram HomePro | Buriram Thai Watsadu | Buriram Mom and Pop paint store near the morning market and a Buriram Builders Merchants., Prices can really vary on the exact same brand, series, and base color. Often I've bought factory mixed paint to avoid the fee of machine mixed paint at a retail store. Chalky walls were certainly a case with my wife's family home, and a property wall I had painted. I've been comfortable buying primer or sealer in a Buriram hardware store where they have actual primer painted onto a board in the store so you can see the results of different series of sealer or primer. No guessing the result,, you can see how one coat looks after it is dry. In March 2016 I spoke in person to the TOA Paint sales manager regarding how the TOA paint warranty actually is handled in Thailand.

[thai3]

how is it handled then?