Plug socket extension wiring

[MaiDong]

I bought a couple of these for a project I'm doing, I thought they'd be wired inside already, and that I'd just have to connect a plug and cable, but they weren't, so now I'm wondering what I need to do to wire them up, I could wait until the morning and go to the hardware shop but I'm impatient and I want to at least get these wired up so I can continue with my project first thing, any ideas?...

 

Edited August 2, 2016 by MaiDong

[MaiDong]

I'm assuming I have to create a circuit, I just didn't think it would be that haphazard...

[MaiDong]

akin to this...

[KhunBENQ]

The difference to the above picture is just that you don't have to solder.
The terminals have either a screw mounting or clamp connectors.

From your picture it looks they have clamp connectors.

 

 

[MaiDong]

That's correct yes, I opened them up to try to work out how the wires would connect and there wasn't anything really, just a void where I suppose the wires make contact with the gubbins inside and eventually the pins of a plug once inserted.

Would I be correct in saying that I need to get some coated wire, chop it into suitable lengths, and connect all the L's together, then all of the N's?...

[MaiDong]

As you can probably tell, I'm not an electrician! But I am a practical person and I'm keen to do things myself, if guided in the right direction!

[KhunBENQ]

A not so perfect example picture but I think it shows the principle:

 

[MaiDong]

Yes! That's exactly what I imagined, blimey, I didn't think I'd have to stoop that unprofessionally low!

[MaiDong]

As this is not a wall socket, just a plug extension socket, could I use standard size cable wires, as opposed to those thick wires in the picture? Or should I just pick up some thick cabling from the shop in the morning? To at least try to be a bit professional...

[Crossy]

Use 1.5mm2 3-core VCT flex. http://www.bangkokcable.com/product/backoffice/file_upload/131004_19-300!500V 70C 60227 IEC 53-2,3,4,5C.pdf

 

You can just strip out the cores to do the internal wiring, link the terminals marked L (black wire), the terminals marked N (white or grey wire), the terminal with the earth symbol goes to the green wire in your incoming flex.

 

Note that much of the 3-core I've bought here has black, white and red cores, i use the red for ground to keep the local convention on the bitey cores.

 

 

 

 

[MaiDong]

Thanks Crossy!

 

So, once I've linked up the terminals correctly, I then solder the corresponding incoming flex cables to the cores? I've got 3M Temflex tape, I've been told that's adequate insulation...

Edited August 2, 2016 by MaiDong

[MaiDong]

I've just realised, Crossy, that the 1.5mm2 3-core VCT flex you've suggested isn't the stiff/thick wire as in the photo above that KhunBENQ posted, why is that thicker wire used here in Thailand instead of the 1.5mm2 you suggested?

[Crossy]

The thick stuff in KhunBenq's post is intended for fixed wiring (it's not flexible) since his image is of a fixed outlet, nothing to stop you using it inside the box but if you have the VCT in your hand ...

 

No need to solder anything, the terminals on the sockets have room for at least two cores of 1.5mm2 flex, just strip the ends, twist the strands and put in the (loosened) terminals.

 

I see that one of the two pin outlets is actually the opposite way round, to make life easy I would pop it out and turn around so all the L terminals are on the same side.

 

There is a thread that I did somewhere on how to make up one of these leads, I'll try to find it.

 

EDIT It's here, but the photos don't seem to work after the forum upgrade

EDIT 2 Fixed the photos

[MaiDong]

Thanks Crossy! Yes, I didn't rotate that terminal before I took the photo, I'll be sure to do that

 

When I said about soldering, I meant soldering the 1.5mm2 3-core linking the terminals to the 1mm2 flex cable & plug I already have prepared(see pic below). Actually, would that 1mm2 be adequate for linking the terminals on this socket? Which would only be used for two outside garden lights and the occasional phone charger or fan. I see in that other thread that you've said ' 1mm² is good for 10A (about 2000W)', I don't think I'll ever be putting that much pressure on it, maybe the odd drill or jigsaw, palm sander or 680W angle grinder for LIGHT use

 

 

 

Edited August 3, 2016 by MaiDong

[MaiDong]

One thing that's a little confusing, on the backs of my terminals I have the slit above and below the L & N, with the white sprung plastic clamp, but I also have the holes which lead in to the terminals, what's that about??

[bankruatsteve]

RE solder:  Unless there is a specific requirement for a soldered joint, it should not be used in high voltage (in this case calling 220v "high").  If it is used, care should be taken to make sure that it is not a conduit and there are no sharp peaks which will cause arcing.  Mechanical connection is best for most cases.

[MaiDong]

6 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

RE solder:  Unless there is a specific requirement for a soldered joint, it should not be used in high voltage (in this case calling 220v "high").  If it is used, care should be taken to make sure that it is not a conduit and there are no sharp peaks which will cause arcing.  Mechanical connection is best for most cases.

 

Thanks, noted. I'll be using block connectors

[Crossy]

Looking more closely, those terminals seem to be the push-and-hope type, twist your cores and push into the hole where they (should) be retained without screws. I think you are supposed to use a small flat driver in that slot to release the wire clamps to get the wires in/out more easily.

 

Just twist your incoming flex with the first link and push the pair into the hole, no need for soldering / choc-bloc or anything else.

 

Do you have a Schuko outlet into which you are going to plug that Schuko plug?

[MaiDong]

I bought some new terminals, those push-and-hope were hopelessly loose, I've wired up the two slightly differently, in the hope that either both of them will be ok'd, or at least one will be ok'd by Crossy or anybody else out there wishing me not to explode some localised electrics today

 

 

the Schuko plugs will be going into this socket, Crossy.

 

Edited August 3, 2016 by MaiDong

[Crossy]

The wiring looks fine on both your samples.

 

Plugging the Schuko into a regular Thai outlet won't connect the ground. not good if you have Class-1 appliances plugged in.

 

You should really replace the Schuko with a local 3-pin plug as shown in my linked thread earlier.

[MaiDong]

Sweet, thanks Crossy! I wondered if the crossover of the wires was necessary.

 

I won't be using any Class-1 appliances on these sockets, although, I have to admit, none of the sockets in my house are earthed. The 'electricians' who done the most recent wiring(about 8 years ago) just didn't bother, as they usually don't here. I haven't even started to look into earthing, I just go with the flow here, foolishly perhaps!

 

I live in a rental property so I'm loathe to much more than I absolutely have to, most of the projects I have done here are things that can be taken with us when we leave.

Edited August 3, 2016 by MaiDong

[bankruatsteve]

The crossover is not necessary - doesn't matter.

 

If you don't have ground, then what is the other end of the ground wire going to the socket connected to?

[MaiDong]

that earth cable is in the Schuko plug flex I found in my spares...future-proofing let's call it!

[Pacificperson]

Do yourself a favor and don't use that metal box. Buy a plastic one with a plastic cover. If one of your live wires comes lose and into contact with the metal, it will not short. It will just lie there in wait to bite someone.

[wayned]

Actually the box is hard rubber, the only metal is the plate that holds the sockets it the box.  They don't "snap" into anything they rely o the metal plate to hold them in the box and the two screws that screw into the rubber box.  Seems to work, I have two that I made and am just waiting for one to pop open but so far so good.

 

I used 1.5 mm2 VCT on one and 2.5mm2 VCT on the other.  I wired the internal plugs with solid wire and tinned the stranded wires on the VCT only because the spring clips don't seem to hold to well on the stranded wire - my opinion.  I buy my VCT from these guys and have it shipped as I live in the boonies http://www.sk-wires.com/. 

They have wall sizes and types of wire made by Thai Yazuki.  I've bought as large as 3C x 10mm2.

[MaiDong]

Correct, the boxes are rubber.

 

The terminals I replaced the supplied terminals with were slightly deeper so I had to cut away approx. 8mm of the rubber 'shelf' on the inside of the box to fit the new terminals in.

 

The replacement terminals were much safer than the supplied terminals, the replacements were screw-fastened, so there's a very limited chance of any wires coming loose inside, and even in the unlikely situation that they do, they will likely come in to contact with the thick rubber base.

 

Here's my relatively 'tidy' spaghetti junction

 

Note: 4 screws holding in each metal plate.

 

[carlyai]

On Wednesday, August 03, 2016 at 8:04 AM, bankruatsteve said:

RE solder:  Unless there is a specific requirement for a soldered joint, it should not be used in high voltage (in this case calling 220v "high").  If it is used, care should be taken to make sure that it is not a conduit and there are no sharp peaks which will cause arcing.  Mechanical connection is best for most cases.

With respect Bankruatsteve, not sure you are correct here. Maybe in some contexts, (high current flow?).

 

In the dim past, I used to dable in electronic projects with 240v in built power supplies, and everything was soldered.

 

In fact I have all the electronic components for a 1000 + 1000 w stereo amp, just waiting for me to finish my shed project to get built.

 

It is all soldered.

 

Just thinking......(click  click  clack  clack, wwwweeerrrr), your context is consumer units, so I would say you are correct. ?

[bankruatsteve]

1 hour ago, carlyai said:

With respect Bankruatsteve, not sure you are correct here. Maybe in some contexts, (high current flow?).

 

In the dim past, I used to dable in electronic projects with 240v in built power supplies, and everything was soldered.

 

In fact I have all the electronic components for a 1000 + 1000 w stereo amp, just waiting for me to finish my shed project to get built.

 

It is all soldered.

 

Just thinking......(click  click  clack  clack, wwwweeerrrr), your context is consumer units, so I would say you are correct. ?

 

The context is house wiring.  Under USEC (I'm pretty sure) solder is forbidden.  Without good experience it's just too easy to end up with a bad solder joint - contaminated causing high R and/or peaks that will definitely arc if near enough to a ground.  "Tinning" stranded wire might be an exception.

 

[Crossy]

By the time you've made a good mechanical connection (essential), soldered the joint, let it cool and banged on some heatshrink you may as well use a Wago (20 seconds including stripping) or crimped using insulated crimps.

 

 

[kamalabob2]

I noted the 3 pin electric cable at a reputable store, in fact it's own brand, had only two wires. I see the virtue of building your own grounded 3 wire portable power point.