A condo I was looking at has been designed with a space for a washing machine. The space has a power outlet and a pipe to connect to the waste water outlet of the washing machine.

 

The existing pipe in the condo is approximately 2 inches in diameter. What's the best way to make the connection please?

 

I did not check if the end cap is glued on.

 

I think you will find that the cap is not glued on. Remove it and simply poke the drain pipe from the machine into the hole. That's how it works in my condo anyway.

1 hour ago, KittenKong said:

I think you will find that the cap is not glued on. Remove it and simply poke the drain pipe from the machine into the hole. That's how it works in my condo anyway.

 

Would there be any bad smells coming from the unsealed pipe?

Don't forget to ground the washer 

22 minutes ago, blackcab said:

 

Would there be any bad smells coming from the unsealed pipe?

 

I dont have any smells because there is a U-bend at the top of my pipe. As yours apparently doesnt have that you might want to ensure a tight fit with some plastic or rubber or cloth. Or it should be quite easy to fit a U-bend before attaching the waste water pipe, assuming it can all be reached. And you may have a hidden U-bend under the floor (and presumably accessible from the condo below).

Check the minimum (yes minimum) discharge height for your machine, it should be in the manual, it's usually about level with the top of the machine drum (I'm assuming a front-loader here). If the pipe is too low the water will simply drain out whilst the machine is filling.

 

Also, there should not be a complete seal at the top or you'll get a siphon effect with similar results, it just needs to let enough air in to break the siphon.

3 hours ago, Crossy said:

Check the minimum (yes minimum) discharge height for your machine, it should be in the manual, it's usually about level with the top of the machine drum (I'm assuming a front-loader here). If the pipe is too low the water will simply drain out whilst the machine is filling.

 

Yes, check the manual.  The top-loading washers I've had did not have a pump to drain the water out, and specified that the top of the drain pipe be very near the floor, something like no higher than a couple inches so that gravity can drain the water out.

 

18 hours ago, jcgodber said:

Don't forget to ground the washer 

 

absolutely....on a 1400rpm spin cycle I have seen a washing machine walk out of its position.

Heres one I did earlier. most front loaders will require a stand pipe a minimum of 600mm from the floor simply to throw the long flexi hose into it.

 

the trap I made out of bends is yes to keep any sewer smells out of the house but also to stop things with legs and wings coming in.

^ Very good!

 

20 hours ago, eyecatcher said:

 

absolutely....on a 1400rpm spin cycle I have seen a washing machine walk out of its position.

My washer is one of those double tank Thai jobs which requires manual intervention.  It is a top of the line and double insulated and there is absolutely no way to grounding  it.  The washer motor is mounted on the plastic housing and connected to the transmission with a rubber belt.  The spin motor is direct drive but fits into a plastic drive and is mounted on plastic mounts.  As said there is no way to ground the beast unless I went in and ran ground straps between all of the electrical parts.  Simply saying "absolutely" doesn't get it!

2 hours ago, wayned said:

My washer is one of those double tank Thai jobs which requires manual intervention.  It is a top of the line and double insulated and there is absolutely no way to grounding  it.  The washer motor is mounted on the plastic housing and connected to the transmission with a rubber belt.  The spin motor is direct drive but fits into a plastic drive and is mounted on plastic mounts.  As said there is no way to ground the beast unless I went in and ran ground straps between all of the electrical parts.  Simply saying "absolutely" doesn't get it!

 

I am sorry, my post was a facecious play on the word grounding. Quite sure the poster was referring to "earthing" as I think you are?

I am not an electrical expert by any means but I think you can simply ground any socket by adding an extra earth wire and changing the 2 pin socket for a 3 pin. a back box would be earthed anyway wouldnt it.

 

Even I am getting confused now. it could be confusion around intercontinental building terms here.

 

if your washer is "travelling" during the spin operation then you need to create some friction....a rubber mat on the floor for example.

On 31/10/2016 at 0:37 AM, KittenKong said:

 And you may have a hidden U-bend under the floor (and presumably accessible from the condo below).

 

That would be an absurd design!

On 31/10/2016 at 7:16 PM, eyecatcher said:

Heres one I did earlier. most front loaders will require a stand pipe a minimum of 600mm from the floor simply to throw the long flexi hose into it.

 

the trap I made out of bends is yes to keep any sewer smells out of the house but also to stop things with legs and wings coming in.

 

This looks like an adequate height of that waste water inlet.

 

Shorter version connected to a U-bended often lead to spills, as washing machines can pump out the water with quite some pressure.

Normall its not glued. even it is, it can be removed easily by applying some heat. (Just lighter will do)

Next, u can buy a washing machine stand, it should cost less than 1000baht. Then buy washing machine pipe (around 100baht) then u cam connect the wasted water to the pipe. You should have no worries for years.

Anyone know of a washing machine stand/trolley seller?

14 minutes ago, blackcab said:

Anyone know of a washing machine stand/trolley seller?

 

Stands, anywhere they sell the machines, many if not all come with a stand anyway.

 

Trollies, never seen, but not looked.

18 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

Stands, anywhere they sell the machines, many if not all come with a stand anyway.

 

Trollies, never seen, but not looked.

 

What's the benefit of a stand? I can see the benefit of a trolley.

Just now, blackcab said:

 

What's the benefit of a stand? I can see the benefit of a trolley.

 

Keeps the bit that can rust off the wet floor, at least that's what I think :)

3 hours ago, blackcab said:

Anyone know of a washing machine stand/trolley seller?

 

My automatic washing machine is outside and resting on 2 bricks at each corner. It has been there about 6 years and hasn't rusted or walked yet.

On 01/11/2016 at 9:15 PM, Morakot said:

 

That would be an absurd design!

 

Not in a condo building. Pipework is often accessed from the unit below.

11 hours ago, blackcab said:

Anyone know of a washing machine stand/trolley seller?

 

What is a "trolley" for a washing machine?  I'm picturing something with wheels.  Wouldn't that go crazy during the spin cycle?

 

I've always put my dryers on wheels (for easy cleaning under/behind it), but all I did was buy some sturdy casters at HomePro and screw them into the bottom.  *Occasionally* the dryer will walk/dance, but not often.

It looks like it has casters and adjustable feet. A good idea, but it might be difficult to lower/rause the rear feet?

Interesting.  Never heard of them, but I guess as long as at least two wheels have brakes, it wouldn't wander around the room during the spin cycle.  The more I think about it, the more I want one.  

My LG washer had an optional matching plastic stand (no casters) though they didnt have it in stock, only to order. I didnt bother with it because my condo bathroom is very dry. The old machine had been there for well over 10 years and didnt have a touch of rust on it.
The actual machine casing on the new one doesnt touch the floor anyway as it has adjustable feet a couple of cm high.

Back to the waste water pipe...

 

I had another chance to check them today, and it turns out the caps on the top of the pipes have been glued on.

 

Would a 1 inch core bit through the end of the cap make the correct diameter hole for the waste water pipe ?

One inch might be a bit restrictive for water flow.  How about just cutting off the existing pipe just below the cap (and joining a new section of pipe above it if you want it higher)?

 

Not sure if you want a 60cm tall pipe for a pump-driven drain or a floor level drain for a gravity-fed (non-pump driven) drain, but I have my gravity-fed drain hose at floor level, just fed down a floor drain with no bad side-effects.  Only thing I did was tape the hose to the floor -- for some reason if I were gone for a week or so, I'd come home to find the hose dislodged from the drain.  Determined cockroaches?

 

9 hours ago, blackcab said:

I had another chance to check them today, and it turns out the caps on the top of the pipes have been glued on.

 

Would a 1 inch core bit through the end of the cap make the correct diameter hole for the waste water pipe ?

 

I would saw off the very top of the cap with a hacksaw blade. It will only take seconds. That way you get the full pipe width and only lose perhaps 1cm of pipe height. I've always hated to shorten embedded pipes as you never know when you might want them longer again.

What sort of idiot glues a cap to a pipe like that?

Most top loaders drain by gravity. If your drain pipe is not very near the floor level, you will find that the machine will not drain. I'd cut the pipe off and leave just enough for the cap. Use a hole saw to cut a hole in the cap as close to the diameter of the machine drain pipe as possible. You will want a snug fit to keep odors from coming out of an open area. My drain was hidden so I just jammed an old rag in around the plastic machine drain pipe. Another reason to leave enough floor drain sticking up is in case you ever get a front loader you will want to glue an extension on it for the pump powered drain machine.

It's definately going to be a front loader. The machine will be fitted into a cupboard. The machine will have a fitted shelf above it, so there's no way you would get the clothes in or out of a top loader.