COTTO ONE PIECE WC - Flush valve removal

[PETERTHEEATER]

Can anyone tell me how to remove the Flush Valve assembly from a Cotto WC with integral cistern?

 

The WC is around 12 years old quite serviceable but has a small water leak from the tank (cistern) into the bowl. I have replaced the Flap Valve with a new item which had significantly reduced the leak but there is still a very small trickle which may be due to a by-pass leak on the valve seat assembly.

 

I cannot see how to access the assembly from beneath (in-situ) so assume that it may screw-in from the top with access via the cistern. Perhaps a special tool required?

 

 

[bankruatsteve]

Not sure for Cotto but a lot of toilets require removal of the tank from the toilet to install the flush valve.  Usually just two "screws" which should be able to finger tighten/untighten from inside the bowl but probably need a wrench anyway.  It's really pretty simple.

[PETERTHEEATER]

Yes, that's for a two-piece toilet with a bowl and separate tank. They are straight forward. Some Cotto models including mine are formed in one piece with the tank integral and the only connection externally is the water supply to the fill valve. The flush valve adjacent to that has not access from the underside unless there is something I cannot see with my torch (flashlight) and mirror hence my assumption that it is fitted from the top.

 

Another irritation is the two studs and nuts securing the toilet seat and lid. They work loose and you have to tighten the nuts(s) with difficult access. It should be easy with the correct size socket and an extension bar but the tail of the stud is too long and the socket will not go over the end of the stud to the nut. Answer? A long reach socket (double depth internally) but I cannot find a retail source with the correct combination of metric size and socket depth. I think that I will remove the seat assembly completely and cut the studs down in length.

[rawhod]

Sorry, I don't have an answer, just a comment...

This was the reason why I bought the old type non-streamlined all in one model toilets when we built our house. The "wobbly seat" is a perennial problem with toilets and I could foresee problems tightening the nuts after installation.

[eyecatcher]

A leak into the bowl to me isn't a leak, its a bit of necessary tinkering with the siphon tube/float assembly.

The one piece bogs dont have access from the underside, thats the whole point so any of the cistern assembly has to be done via the lid.

if you have replaced something in the past, did you cover all bases and wrap the thread with ptfe tape, a smidgeon of silicone on the ceramic?

 

Can you advise if your alleged leak is coming from the bog rim, ie the same place as a normal flush delivers water.

 

ps:its not a leak where your incoming water supply screws into the siphon gubbins is it?

Edited January 8, 2017 by eyecatcher

[PETERTHEEATER]

Can you advise if your alleged leak is coming from the bog rim, ie the same place as a normal flush delivers water.

 

Yes, it is now just a tiny trickle into the bowl after the tank refills postflush but in the same location as the main flush discharges. Yesterday it did stop entirely so I think that as the inevitable lime content in the water builds up the leak will stop completely. 

 

I'm not too concerned about water use increase but over-flooding of the septic tank.

 

Yes, I always use new PTFE tape clean threads etc and use sealant where necessary . I have three other WCs same model same age in other bathrooms but no leaks.

[bankruatsteve]

I had that problem a while back.  I taped a small weight (like a nut) to the top of the flapper and no more leaking.  I think it gets to a point where it just doesn't seat properly.

[PETERTHEEATER]

22 hours ago, bankruatsteve said:

I had that problem a while back.  I taped a small weight (like a nut) to the top of the flapper and no more leaking.  I think it gets to a point where it just doesn't seat properly.

That's a good idea. I was mulling over the fact that the new flapper did not seem to require as much force on the flush lever to actuate it. It is one of those with the built-in float bubble instead of the original separate drum float.

 

I shall do that now lest I forget. Thanks

[bankruatsteve]

1 minute ago, PETERTHEEATER said:

That's a good idea. I was mulling over the fact that the new flapper did not seem to require as much force on the flush lever to actuate it. It is one of those with the built-in float bubble instead of the original separate drum float.

 

I shall do that now lest I forget. Thanks

 

Now that I remember better... tape and glue doesn't work very well underwater so the wife ended up sewing it onto the flapper.  

[PETERTHEEATER]

Right. That's done the trick but the clincher was that the angle of the chain from the flush lever to the flapper was dragging the flapper slightly off centre so I have re-routed it and it now falls squarely onto the seating.

 

Thanks