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Posted (edited)

Anyone using these?

 

My borehole pump supplies the house water tank and is on a standard ballcock. This means that the borehole pump kicks in and out regularly as water is used in the house.

 

I was thinking of fitting a float switch to the tank but, trouble is, the borehole pump supplies water round the gardens as well.

 

If I rigged a float switch to a solenoid valve the borehole pump would simply kick in when the tank gets low and stop at the desired level.

 

Where to buy? Controllers?

 

Any help appreciated, cheers.

Edited by grollies
Posted

This may not help you, but it's a different take on the problem. It's what I've got.

 

One bore pump fills the tank through a float switch. So it's adjusted for a large fill. From the tank there is another pump used for the house, with a float switch so the pump can't start if the level gets too low. Both pumps are fed from under/over voltage protection and contactor relay for the pumps.

I have a separate bore for the irrigation, which, when completely set up will have controlled water zones, timer and switching solonoids.

 

Be an adventurist, you need a few more pipes in that pump room. [emoji3]

 

Sent from my SM-J700F using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Posted

Solenoid valves are :-

  • Very flow restrictive
  • Expensive

Sketch out what you want and we can sort simple control.

 

 

Posted
Solenoid valves are :-

  • Very flow restrictive
  • Expensive
Sketch out what you want and we can sort simple control.

 

 

Sounds good to me. Awaiting.

 

I took my irrigation construction (no where near finished), off a recommended web page on irrigation design.

I'm nearly sure a timer was used to open valves for the different watering zones.[emoji16]

 

Sent from my SM-J700F using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Posted
3 hours ago, Crossy said:

Solenoid valves are :-

  • Very flow restrictive
  • Expensive

Sketch out what you want and we can sort simple control.

 

 

Will do, cheers.

Posted

I want to see feature fountain like the one in front of Bellagio, Las Vegas.

But with more of a Thai motif.

Yea, sure, it can water the grass while it's at it.

 

Maybe I can interest Naam...

 

maxresdefault.jpg

Posted

Hi Grollies. You've probably done a fair bit of research already, but I found this site really good.

www.irrigationtutorials.com



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Posted

@grollies I think I understand what you want to do:-

  • Wait for the tank to get to 50% (or whatever) before filling.
  • Water the garden any time.

Do you want to NOT fill the tank when watering?

and/or

Not water when the tank is filling.

or

Does it not matter (pump can fill tank and water at the same time).

 

I'm assuming the pump is on a pressure switch.

Posted
29 minutes ago, Crossy said:

@grollies I think I understand what you want to do:-

  • Wait for the tank to get to 50% (or whatever) before filling.
  • Water the garden any time.

Correct

29 minutes ago, Crossy said:

Do you want to NOT fill the tank when watering?

and/or

Doesn't matter

 

29 minutes ago, Crossy said:

Not water when the tank is filling.

Doesn't matter

29 minutes ago, Crossy said:

or

Does it not matter (pump can fill tank and water at the same time).

Correct

29 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

I'm assuming the pump is on a pressure switch.

Yep

Posted
2 hours ago, Crossy said:

@grollies sorry, one last question, what size is the fill pipe going to the tank?

 

Only so we can check the price of suitable valves.

 

1" pipe to tank

Posted

Sorry to butt in and I know Crossy will come up with a solution, but you have many ry. Wouldn't another bore, specially for the irrigation of the many ry be better?

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Posted
4 hours ago, carlyai said:

Sorry to butt in and I know Crossy will come up with a solution, but you have many ry. Wouldn't another bore, specially for the irrigation of the many ry be better?

Sent from my SM-J700F using Tapatalk
 

Yeah, don't tell @Crossy but I do have an operational spare borehole.

 

It's a hand-dug hole, bout 15m deep, lined with concrete rings.

 

But, just kicking some ideas around for water systems.

 

BTW, cheers for the link above.

Posted

Grollies,

What's the flow rate of your current pump (L/M).

I think the reason @Crossy was asking about simultaneous use (Tank Fill / Watering) is the effect on water pressure.

 

When I've implemented watering systems in the past usually had to break down watering tasks into zones driven by a timer; as even with a 1" line at 60PSI the system didn't have enough water pressure to satisfy all zones simultaneously. 

 

Sometimes I was dismayed to find I could only water a 40sqm area at any time. Any larger and I'd have to increase the density of sprinkler heads and add additional time to offset the lower available pressure. And my lawn mower absolutely loved to eat pop-up sprinkler heads, the more the better.

Posted

"And my lawn mower absolutely loved to eat pop-up sprinkler heads, the more the better."
Don't say that. [emoji21]

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Posted (edited)

Have a look on eBay. "Orbit" solenoid control valves are cheap enough from the US. You only need one per zone (If you have a decent pump you can run 6 or more pop up sprinklers. The valves come in 3/4 or 1" size. Easy enough to build a manifold with PVC or PPR pipe. The controllers start at around $30.

Mine have been running trouble free for over four years. Only servicing is once a year I just give the diaphragms a rinse.

 

Ignore the high postage on this add. It's ebays daft prepaid tax system. I get them sent airmail. Never had to pay any duty.

 

IMG_4711.thumb.PNG.f69f1284b9b92193e6ef473b199527a1.PNG

 

 

Edited by Pdaz
Posted

@grollies If you don't mind the tank and watering being possibly active together, you will need:-

 

  • A float switch, many types around, about 1,000 Baht
  • A 220V 1" (or bigger) solenoid valve, US$25 ish from AliExpress.

 

Insert the valve into the tank feed, leave the ball valve in place as backup. Make sure the valve is the right way round.

Drop the float into the tank, follow the instructions to set up.

Wire as per the instructions with the float switch, just put the valve where the pump is shown.

 

Easy eh?

 

If you're nervous about having 220V around your tank use a 12V or 24V valve and a suitable power supply, you can use the same float switch.

 

You could add a timer so the tank only fills at night (or when you're not likely to be watering).

 

 

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Crossy said:

@grollies If you don't mind the tank and watering being possibly active together, you will need:-

 

  • A float switch, many types around, about 1,000 Baht
  • A 220V 1" (or bigger) solenoid valve, US$25 ish from AliExpress.

 

Insert the valve into the tank feed, leave the ball valve in place as backup. Make sure the valve is the right way round.

Drop the float into the tank, follow the instructions to set up.

Wire as per the instructions with the float switch, just put the valve where the pump is shown.

 

Easy eh?

 

If you're nervous about having 220V around your tank use a 12V or 24V valve and a suitable power supply, you can use the same float switch.

 

You could add a timer so the tank only fills at night (or when you're not likely to be watering).

 

 

Yep, cheers, that's pretty much what I was thinking. Found a float switch at the local hardware store, all I need is a 24v solenoid valve.

 

Don't do online purchase so I'll have a look round, going to Sri Racha tomorrow.

 

Thanks for your help and prices. :smile:

 

All I need now is a building round it all and CCTV :shock1:

Edited by grollies
Posted (edited)

ThaiWatsadu has an irrigation dept. so they should have solenoids.

 

At present the pump starts when the pressure drops? So watering will still be manual by opening a valve or will you use two solenoids one on float switch and one on a simple timer.  The other way would be to see if you can find one normally open and one normally closed solenoids. When tank is high and pump starts the water will go to the garden unless the float switch in the tank closes then the garden will be cut off and the water will go to the tank.

 

Where will the 24V come from?  

 

Be careful with water hammer as when the float switch opens the solenoid valve will snap shut and if there is no expansion tank on the pump you will get some water hammer.  You don't get this at the moment as the ball cock closes gradually. If you use the double solenoid ( normally open/normally closed) method you will eliminate the water hammer. If pump has an expansion tank then you are also OK.

 

Crossy is electrical.:whistling:  They don't have to know anything about the process, instrument guys on the other-hand...!:thumbsup:

 

:laugh:

Edited by VocalNeal
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

A thought. Motorised (as opposed to solenoid) valves may be a better option. Slightly more expensive but much larger bore (less restrictive) and less prone to clogging.

 

A 3-wire version can be controlled directly from a change-over float switch.

 

And since they close relatively slowly, less issue with water hammer :smile:

 

This sort of thing

 

HTB1Y4T5PpXXXXb5aXXXq6xXFXXXh.jpg

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-Wires-Hot-Sales-12VDC-CR02-Wiring-2-Way-Brass-1-DN20-Electric-Motorized-Valve-BSP/32800924472.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.YfdCf1

Posted

OK as long as a Fail Last or Fail Indeterminate valves work for the system. But I suppose if the power fails the pump will stop also?  

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