Crossy

Something we've been missing is a link to online solar "calculators" (really estimators), so here are a couple to get us started. A nice simple one:- https://www.whatnextnow.com/home/solar/solar-panel-calculator And something more complex:- https://re.jrc.ec.europa.eu/pvg_tools/en/tools.html#SA Please feel free to add your own favourite.

They would need to steal my finger too in order to open the SCB app ????

Donated, no I'm not saying how much!

Lazada?? There's (or was) an official Tomzn store.

Truemoney Wallet and PromptPay - both QR based. Even our local songthaw has QR payment. Two fares "long trip" and "short trip", scan the relevant QR whilst riding, show the driver the confirmation when you get off.

Have a look at my pinned AVR thread but I think it's do-able. Will you take your sub-meter and 16mm2 direct from the existing meter or still suffer the run of 6mm2? Is the existing meter a 5/15? Whilst you are not likely to blow it up it will lose accuracy if loaded past 15A (bet it won't read low) and I wouldn't take it past 30A.

Our first Mazuma 8kW unit lasted 7 years. Replaced with "same" - Error! Firstly the "same" but slightly later design has the fixing holes in different places! Sort of negating the reason for getting it. Managed 2 years. This one I fixed (overheat switch pinched from the earlier failed unit) which has a failed heater (yes, this sad individual keeps failed stuff for far longer than is healthy).

Me, me, me!! But really only because it's nearer than the others. There are a few things that Makro don't carry and I get beer there coz I visit Makro at 6AM and they're not selling then. So I get, beer, Breeze (and Comfort), dog treats (the barkers have got a taste for the expensive Japanese "Dogaholic" ones), bathroom and kitchen paper and anything that was out of stock at Makro. Usually reasonably busy at 11AM on Saturday.

I suspect there is a fault in the spacetime continuum. This year is 2022 (and yes, I did actually go and check in case I was finally losing it) ????

Inverter outdoor units don't cycle, they change speed so you wouldn't necessarily notice. Two x 34k units would be ok by the standard Thai guesstimate of 600BTU/m2 but that massive glass area isn't going to help. Tinting should help but those windows point in exactly the wrong direction ???? Any way to add shade outside (planting) to keep the sun off the south and western walls?

Yeah, Al underground is specifically prohibited in consumer installations (the supply authorities can use it of course).

Are the "cores" solid? It's difficult to tell without scale but it could be a phone line.

He will certainly need to watch his step.

Posted at 17:10 ????

Do you really want a 5/15? That's a shed sized supply. Most homes would go with a 15/45 which is good for the "average" home. I'd size the cable with that in mind anyway. For a 15/45 to keep the volt drop in order you're looking at 50mm2 copper ($$$) or 75mm2 aluminium (far less $$$ and it will have less chance of wandering off in the night). If you are really having a 5/15 then 16mm2 copper or 25mm2 aluminium would do.

18k BTU A/C plus a few lights, say 2kW max, 2.5mm2 would be OK, I'd actually pull 4mm2 and protect with a 32A RCBO breaker at the supply end. 1. If going underground you need NYY cable https://www.bangkokcable.com/system/product/file_upload/211102_450!750V 70C NYY_1-4core_Rev04.pdf Should be available in 50m lengths, check Lazada for by-the-metre suppliers. 2. Although NYY can be buried direct I recommend the black polypropylene conduit for extra protection. 3. Wiring to a trailing 32A Commando socket (remember it's a live end) is a smart idea. 4. I would NOT use the main building ground, run 2-core cable and bash in a local rod at the container for a TT island. Bond your container, the rod and the container electrical ground together, we don't want any voltages vs the ground you're standing on (site workers have died getting hold of a container door handle!).

What size meter??

It actually sounds pretty OK. You have some rather long runs so you need to ensure that the cable is sized adequately, do you have an actual cost breakdown of the job showing exactly what will be supplied? EDIT What size meter will you be having, 15/45 or 30/100??

In other words the ATS connected as shown in your earlier linked video ????

NO NO NO!!! You must NEVER EVER have both sources in your breaker box without some, interlocked, means of switching between them (that would be the ATS). Do NOT rely on "remembering" to move breakers in the correct order, you will forget one dark night. A member on another forum I use forgot, it cost him US $3,000 worth of inverters!! Connecting, even briefly, inverter out to the grid will send your inverter into low-earth orbit! Just run your breaker box from the inverter output and take grid to the inverter input going nowhere near your box (via a suitable MCB of course).

Task A is to go along to your local PEA office with a Thai speaker. Take along photos and a decent map (Google maps will be your friend) of what the current position is and what you want to do. Take a photo of the existing meter (they will want the reference number). They will tell you where they can/will place the new meter. This may not be where you expect depending upon the actual ownership of the poles on the (now public) road (they may actually have reverted to PEA when the road was adopted). Anything that happens after that meter is on your coin. Although you will likely be able to get a moonlighting PEA crew to do the job. Our poles were installed on a Sunday by a crew driving a PEA truck, wearing PEA uniforms, the poles are marked "PEA". Pay cash to the supervisor and everyone goes away happy.

Not if you have connected your ATS correctly. This is why you MUST draw out what you want to do. Even if it's pencil sketch on the proverbial fag packet. The ATS will only ever connect one of the inputs (grid or inverter) to the output (breaker box). It can never connect both inputs at the same time (and thus to each other) unless some deliberate sabotage in in play. You just hook up the ATS as shown in the instructions but connect the inverter to where the generator would go.

The original 2-pole ATS would handle the breaker-box to grid/inverter just fine with no risk of the grid and inverter output being connected together. You would need an MCB on the inverter grid input anyway, so just turn it off and your inverter is isolated both ends.

That's a 3-phase ATS. Maybe you could draw what you intend doing. We wouldn't want anything to go bang.