Crossy

The full report is here: - https://resources.unsdsn.org/2022-sustainable-development-report At a glance map: - https://dashboards.sdgindex.org/map

Yup, IP20 would mean basically finger-proof (objects up to 12mm) and zero water protection. Outside use only in dry conditions. One of many online references to what IPXX actually means: - https://www.wolfautomation.com/blog/what-does-ip20-mean-actually-what-does-any-ip-mean/

From your description it looks like they were being nice to you (OK, avoiding doing the paperwork) so they likely won't have logged anything before sending you on your way. I would think you'll be just fine to fly back, assuming of course that you meet the new vaxx requirements.

Potential hazard, it has 2-core cable and 3-pin outlets! Also, they say it's 2x1mm2 and that it's 16A (Bangkok cable 2x1mm2 VCT is 10A in free air https://www.bangkokcable.com/system/product/file_upload/210524_450!750V 70C VCT_1-4core_Rev04.pdf ) The red metal one appears also to have a 2-pin plug which would mean that the metalwork cannot be grounded! And the 3-pin outlets problem as above too. The middle plastic one looks OK, but we don't know the size of the cable, should be 3x1.5mm2 (it's sometimes called 2-core with ground just to confuse) for 16A minimum. We have one of the red ones (ours is yellow), but it's long since had the cable replaced by 3x1.5mm2 and the metalwork is connected to the ground pins of the outlets. In the end it's actually cheaper to buy the bits and make your own cables, and you know it's made right. Your pressure washer is 1,800W, so about 8A and it's likely double-insulated so it would actually be safe on all of your quoted leads (still really should have the red one's metalwork grounded).

Generally, you want cables of the same function to be about the same length. So: - Battery +ve's to bus bar = same length Battery -ve's to bus bar = same length (but doesn't have to be the same as the +ve's) Similarly, for your inverters. Unless you are actually paralleling cables the length matching isn't super-duper critical, say about 5%.

Whilst these guides can be very useful if your bike has a carb. our OP is talking about flooding as in lots of rain not fuel flooding ????

What makes you say this? MCBs have been used for decades on both AC and DC and provided you use a recognised brand are very reliable. A correctly rated fuse is vital insurance of course to back up the protection from the BMS electronics and the MCB.

the panels will be correct polarity (famous last words), so the only time you need to be certain is when you run your cables to the controller/inverter. Important. Your cables will have MC4s of opposite sex on each end to maintain correct polarity.

I suspect this is at the receiving end. What application are they using to (try to) view the video? EDIT Can they view other videos of the same format without needing all the info?

All our panels have two black wires coming from them. Absolutely necessary to verify your polarity before hooking to the electronics. Many inverters will sense incorrect solar input and warn you; many others will inform you with a little puff of Magic Smoke and remind you when you buy a new one ????

It's like "back-home" but raised to the nth power ???? I would avoid the "tents" unless you really know what you are doing. If the budget runs to it there are plenty of places doing "certified" used cars complete with warranty.

Many take the Michael out of UK PIFs (Public Information Films) but they really did work: -

Lived in Little Hulton, went to Wharton County Primary 53.536297840939106, -2.43674730866429 school has hardly changed in nigh on 60 years. Alternative baths were Walkden.

Yeah, I learned during junior school, every other week was swimming at Farnworth Baths. Photo of the baths as it was at the time. My Thai grand-kids all swim like fish, evidently their parents are in the minority.

No, it's pissy stuff ???? Fetching my coat!

For some reason my addled brain thought this was something to do with the Duchess of Sussex and her pet prince

Yeah, my panels are the same. Easy to modify the connector so that the regular tool (or long nose pliers) have access should you need to get them apart.

Hmmmm, my wife may disagree with you on that front!

I like any bolted connections to be accessible for maintenance, but I don't see any real issues with your proposal.

Even Bosch isn't silly money https://globalhouse.co.th/product/detail/3165140992619

RS are about double the price for a similarly rated fuse https://th.rs-online.com/web/p/tag-fuses/1884604 (only 150V DC but would do the trick). Our fuses (Bussmann) came from my brother in Oz who does solar installations professionally after I asked if ANL (fork truck) fuses were OK at 60V. He classed them as "marginal" but many "48V" solar systems are using them. Would I get them from Alixxx? Very good question. If I was doing again I'd probably get them from RS or from a UK specialist. EDIT The more observant will note that my photos of our battery pack show ANL fuses. These have been replaced courtesy of my younger bruvver ????

Do ensure that you get the polarity correct on that MCB. For your fuses make sure they are DC rated at a voltage above your maximum charging voltage, something like this: - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000548444228.html

That's pretty close to what we have. I would add a suitably rated Class-T fuse at the battery end of the cables as a last-ditch protection. Rate it higher than the MCB and it should never actually open, until it really has to.