FolkGuitar

Perhaps you could give us some reasons for your comment? That might be interesting and maybe even useful for others considering getting it done.

That's a very good suggestion! Thanks for mentioning it.

Thanks for that. Do you have any experience with these shops? Any idea of the approximate cost to wrap a small Toyota? Thanks again.

Have you had your car wrapped here? Can you recommend a place close to the Superhighway, preferably with some English-speaking staff? Any idea of the approximate cost of wrapping a small Toyota 4-door? Thanks

Vic Victorinox makes some very nice knives. I prefer their kitchen 'boning knives' over all others on the market. The Swiss Army Knives are a great choice for someone looking for a small multi-tool for pocket or sheath, and doesn't mind resharpening often. The high Chromium levels in their pocket knife steel means that it can't take as sharp an edge as a high-carbon steel, but it is very wear-resistant and holds its edge well. Good, all-around knives sold a the right prices!

I miss 'Three Musketeers' bars. Do you remember them? It was a large bar segmented so that it could be broken into three large pieces 'to share with two friends.' Cost just a nickel back then. Now it's a tiny bar that costs as much as a small condo...

Thanks for posting the video clip. It does have a nice, clear picture with a good field of view. I think that's the way I'll go, too. Thanks again.

Not only doesn't it answer the question, there is nothing valid about his comment. Your comment about 'reflection' IS a valid concern, and one I'll need to watch out for. Thanks.

There are some people who have something to say, and others who just have to say something no matter how ridicules it makes them appear. Thanks, Basso53! That's exactly the sort of recommendation I was hoping for. Thanks again.

I'd like to buy a good quality dash cam (front & rear) setup and have it installed. Recommended brands and where to purchase? Any good installation place recommendations inside the Superhighway? Thanks

You are not 'wrong.' You just have a different set of values. When I buy a car, I want to know about the engine. That's the important part! That's more important to me than the color. So every car maker publicly announces all the specifications for the engine because that is the important part of a car. When I buy a computer, I want to know the what IC chip is inside, and the memory capacity. That's more important to me than the color of the case, because those parts are what make the computer effective for my needs or not, so every computer manufacturer goes into fine detail to tell consumers all the specifications for them. Nobody buys a computer because the case is a pretty color. When I buy a knife, I want to know about the steel that's used for the blade, because the blade steel used is what makes the knife. THAT is more important to me than the color of the handle. Every QUALITY knife manufacturer will tell you all about the steel used for its blades. THAT is the most important information about a knife. Your manufacturer does NOT tell what steel is being used in this knife. There is usually a reason for that... Sure, we'd often want our knives to look nice, but not at the expense of a worthless piece of steel. In fact, many custom-made Japanese knives aren't even sold with handles! I had two custom knives made for me, one in Seki City, Japan, and the other in Sakai-shi, Japan, both just came with wooden dowels for handles. If You go into any knife shop in Japan, you'll see walls covered with knives... 95% of the with plain wooden dowel handles, as in the photo below. The the shop keeper can tell you the steel used in each and every one of them! No one cares about the handles. Some folks choose a knife for it's looks. Some choose for it's ability to do the job at hand. Personally, I wouldn't buy any knife that didn't have its steel known, because that is the important part of a knife to me. I know which steels I prefer for what particular job, be it a gentleman's pocket folder, an electrician's work tool, a forester's EDC, or a fisherman's friend. Each benefits from a different steel. All knives cut once. The goal is to have a knife that you only need to sharpen 2-3 times a year, with honing in between.

Just to add a note for all those who like a professionally sharpened edge... There is the 'WorkSharp Ken Onion Edition' belt sharpener available at https://www.overzeas.net/th/sharpener/work-sharp-sharpener/work-sharp-ken-onion-edition-wskts-ko/ When custom knife makers sharpen a knife, they use grinding belts MADE for sharpening knives. This WorkSharp sharpener uses several different grit belts to sharpen anything from a small pocket knife, kitchen knife, or hobby tool to a machete, parang, or even a sword, without the risk of burning an edge. It has guides for 15 degrees through 30 degrees, so there is no guesswork involved. Just slip on the correct belt, press the adjustable-speed trigger, and make 3-4 guided angle passes across the belt on either side. Switch to the next finer grit belt and make a couple more passes on each side. You can progress through all the grits, or move to the leather 'stropping' belt for the ultimate edge... even if you've never sharpened a knife before. In fact, you can even get diamond-coated belts used to sharpen ceramic blades, too! And... you can sharpen your knife in just 5-8 minutes. I just re-sharpened ALL of my kitchen knives yesterday in less than an hour. Since I started using the Ken Onion WorkSharp device, I've stopped using all the other sharpening tools I've collected over the years. While it doesn't provide the 'Zen-like' sharpening sensation you get when using Japanese waterstones, it doesn't take the hours that waterstones can require for re-profiling an edge. Just 5-8 minutes. Almost fool-proof. It also doesn't rip metal off your blade the way those 'pull-through' carbide roller sharpeners do, and does let you adjust the edge bevel angle for the cutting use required. For the home hobbyist/woodworker, there is an attachment for this that turns it into a great tool grinder for ANYTHING with an edge.

If someone has the tools and skill, taking apart an Opinel with a locking collar, removing and rebuilding the handle in nicer woods or other materials will result in a top-notch cutting tool for less than $20. Very few low-end knives have the high-quality steel that Opinel uses. Their production knives use both High Carbon Steel or Stainless Sandvik12c27. Both are great at taking and holding an edge!

While I personally don't like multi-tools as EDCs, I DO keep a Leatherman 'Wave' in my motorcycle, and have used one or two of the odd blades over the years. I think they are great for that purpose. Just not enough to want that much weight in a pocket. (I don't care for folders carried in a belt sheath unless absolutely needed.) And IF carried in a pocket, they make too large an imprint on the front of the pants, even if carried inside a 'pocket sheath.' Pocket sheaths will remove visible traces of a knife in the front pocket, but not if it's 3/4" thick and weighs a lot. Right now, there are several companies making great multi-tools, each with it's own variety of tools and accessories for those who like that sort of tool. As long as one stays clear of the Chinese and Pakistani knock-offs, there are some good ones available.

Each has its own individual pluses. Unfortunately, no one is making the 'ultimate' multi-tool as yet.

http://overzeas.net/ Yes, an in fact, is a great source for knives and sharpening equipment. In fact, it's the ONLY source for 'WorkSharp' sharpening products if you live in Asia. I buy all my sharpening belts from them. 'WorkSharp' will not ship to individuals outside the USA, so our only choices are Overzeas, net, or a place in Australia to get them. The belt-sharpening system of the WorkSharp 'Ken Onion' edition is simply the fastest, most effective, and 'safest' (no overheating of the blade) machine sharpening for the price, and can sharpen up to 6,000 grit (although I generally stop around 2,000 grit at 17 degrees for my kitchen knives and 4,000 at 20 degrees for my EDC. I won't use anything other then belts or Japanese waterstones on my knives.

It does not have a locking function. It is modeled after the old 'CAT' knives so popular with sailors during W.W.II. (They even copied the name and made is sound Japanese.) I have several of the old ones in my collection. Sailors weren't allowed to carry anything in pant's pockets, so they carried in their socks. The CAT knives were very thin, flat folding knives, perfect for that style of carry. Cheap as chips so no problem if lost. They were just a blade pivoting on an axis with a folded metal handle around it, and a 'tail' to help open it. You can see the tail in the photo. Please share with us your reference that 'quite a few' use it as an EDC. I can't find any. In fact, I never heard of this brand before.

Thailand Outdoor Sports (the archery range) in the Star Dome complex carries a VERY complete line of Leatherman tools.

That's a very pretty knife, but I'd be afraid to use it as an EDC. The blade has no locking function, not even a slip-joint to prevent accidental closure. It just pivots on its axis. Notice how easily he closes it with just one finger's pressure? What is the blade material? It says it's 'Damascus Steel' but that just means is a fusion of two or three different steels? WHAT STEELS? You can forge-weld low quality steels as easily as good steels. The company calls the steel used in several of its other knives as 'Magic Steel.' That's enough to turn me off completely. They do, however, tell you what wood is used for the scales. That's probably important when trying to cut something... The sheath that comes with this knife looks as if it was made by a group of elementary school children doing a crafts project. The edges are left rough and unfinished, single-stitched by machine. It's just a flat pancake sheath. The leather isn't even molded to the shape of the knife! But this IS a pretty knife. For $80.

Case made some excellent 'trade' knives, and still does today. The big differences between that Laguiole and this Case are the steel used for the blade, the material used for the scales (handles) and the attention to detail in manufacturing. Also, the Laguiole has a locking blade while the Case is a slip-joint.

Laguiole knives truly are very high quality knives! Each is hand-made, start to finish. Even the Bee on the lever-lock is individually hand cut, as is the jimping on the spine of the blade. The knife blades are now made of high-quality, high-carbon Sandvik 12C27 stainless steel. Laguiole is world famous for it line of fine table knives and bar accessories, not just its pocket knives. Between Laguiole at the very high end, and simple Opinel at bottom the low end, France has the pocket knife field well represented! (I consider Opinel the very best 'value' in the entire pocket knife line. Like the 'Mora' for fixed-blades, the Opinel give the most knife for the dollar spent. The Opinel blade steel takes an incredibly sharp and long-lasting edge, yet can be bought for Less than $10 for the smaller sizes. I carry an Opinel when traveling so if confiscated, I only lose a few bucks.)

1. Actually, I prefer a drop-point, but it sounds as if the OP needs a rather small-frame knife, and that's what came to mind. I like a Droppint for 'looks,' rather than purpose. Truth be told, my favorite is the slight recurve and belly of the Benchmade 710 Axis lock, but that's been out of production for years. I lost one here in Chiang Mai last year that I'd carried for the past 20 years. Fortunately, when I bought that one, I bought two! ???? 2. Today, it seems that most quality knives can be bought with almost any blade style and configuration. Personally, I have no 'need' for a serrated edge, and it only gets in my way of getting a hair-whittling edge on a blade. While obviously any shape will 'cut' anything, rope and cordage cut better with a serrated edge, push-cutting is best done with a Sheepsfoot or Wharncliff shape, but they have a relatively narrow-use range, while recurve blades give the longest edge vs blade length. Because this is this forum, let me edit to say that a serrated edge actually does give a longer edge surface to a blade, but does not give smooth cutting the way a non-serrated edge will do.

Invest in a 'Benchmade' brand with an Omega spring/Axis Lock. A medium-priced one will run about $200 U.S, and be worth every penny. You can remove the pocket clip if you don't want it, or switch it to the other side if you so choose. The axis lock mechanism is virtually bomb-proof so your fingers are safe. It holds an edge forever if you change the angle to 20 degrees, and keeps its value if you wish to sell it later. From your OP, it sounds as if the Mini-Griptilian would be a perfect fit for you!

I thought Tiger Balm would keep them away.

The OP's post asked for 'quality' knives. The Night Market sells knives but hard to call them 'quality.'