sometimewoodworker

Just because you haven’t experienced a problem proves nothing. I have had a phone that decided to stop functioning after about 3 minutes into a call unless it was in the outflow of the car’s AC, so far a replacement battery may have been the answer.

Changing a sheet of glass (though by itself it’s probably not going to make a huge difference unless going from virtually zero IR rejecting to high rejection glass) is not going to be particularly expensive. The glass in IGUs isn’t very expensive either (FWIW I am currently replacing 6 units in the U.K. that have failed after 40 years so I am well aware of costs), but the cost of the frames is a different matter. There are very many kinds of glass available and a simple tint is probably just going to effect visible light and do little to reduce IR, while a high IR rejecting glass will not have a big effect in the visual range. You can go from 84% heat transmission to 20% transmission

You may have misread my post. if your new phone battery storage is 5,000mAh when the used battery only holds 3,500mAh (that is 70% of the new battery charge) you will need to replace it. FWIW the number of times you charge a current mobile phone is not the complete information. It is the number of complete charges that count so 5 X 20% charges are 1 complete charge cycle. Apple batteries typically last at least 2 years before the loose more than 20% capacity, if your battery falls below before 2 years this and you have AppleCare + you get a free replacement, you can be a sure that Apple replaces very very few batteries for free

The windows are tinted, and the tint seems dark enough. Just using tinted glass isn’t the answer, using low-E glass and or reflective glass or film will do a better job.

Or possibly 20cm X 20cm

The Thai Powar Connex strips that I linked that I linked have a 5 year warranty, that probably explains the price, they are extremely well built so it’s unlikely that you will need to use the warranty. FWIW my strips are going on 2 years old.

Could be. I am too wary to make that assumption without seeing the actual setting, to quote Kipling ‘You're a better man than I am, Gunga Din’

That may have been the complete post. But you still didn’t have enough context to make it intelligible. If you can’t see that then I am not surprised that you are lost. Just because you quote 1 post doesn’t stop you quoting others in the same message

Easy to find if you have the name BUT in no way cheap they have them with USB outlets as well, I’ve got 2 invadeit.com is a reputable online seller. Personally I would avoid the Amazon ones unless they are suitably priced (NOT cheap)

@Crossy Can you actually see where it is set to at the moment? for me it is still too blurry. A 90kb file makes it impossible for my eyes.

That is the wrong metric. when the battery will only hold about 70% of the new value it’s time to change it

This is because when you quoted a post you didn’t quote enough to make clear the context of your answer. You clearly understand your answer, but without sufficient context others don’t

Your post suggested otherwise if it wasn’t suggesting otherwise what does “Because it doesnt .. ” mean? Based on the post you quoted. Because it doesnt .. https://grapheneos.org/releases

Well yes it is, from the official page

You certainly can, in fact Thailand is one of the major producing countries. FWIW I don’t know of any petroleum based substitute though C2H5OH is not the only solvent used.

Incorrect information (I am trying to be polite and not relate it to male bovine wast product). I have items I made over 18 years ago where the finish is as good as when I put it on, I also have one box I made about 50 years ago where there is mechanically damaged edges (I use it as a tool box) but the majority of it is still OK. No rubber wood I have ever bought here from any source has had surface oils, I have never heard of anyone that has had any rubber wood that has the problem. Shellac is used based on the amount dissolved in the carrier (almost always alcohol) and can be anything from a ½lb cut to a 4lb or even 8lb cut so advise suggesting that you thin it is of little help FWIW many sanding sealers use a ½lb cut so while, off course, you can thin them to a ¼lb there will be so little shellac left it would be virtually pointless. based on the advice you have given I can only assume that you either have very poor materials available to you or your finishing skills can benefit from a very great deal of improvement, though you could probably live in an environment that is extremely harsh and unusual.

For the RTB only buy from the RTB Lazada store, as it’s a water based finish it can (and very much does, DAMHIKT,) go off if stored too long. So other suppliers may be cheaper but the quality is not good to be the same as from RTB. I have used quite a few litres of it over the last 18 years (maybe 50+) so am very familiar with it

The shellac is not expensive, The RTB is not cheap and the only reliable source unless you live near Bangkok is from the RTB Lazada store.

Since never, I clear coat over base coats if I want a more durable surface.

Some interesting suggestions, some rather time consuming, some I agree are good, others, not so much, My process in finishing, listed from the factory surface but excluding any decorative cuts goes like this. 1) finish sand to your preferred fineness (between 120 and 220 grit paper your choice) 2) blow off any dust remaining (I have almost none because I use Festool sanders and a Festool shop vac) 3) spray or paint the base sealer shellac (this may need to be denibbed) this can be the colour coat. Drying time is possibly more than 2 minutes depending on atmospheric conditions recoating time possibly as long as 10 minutes but as short a a minute, you may not require a second coat it depends on aesthetic choice. This is one brand there are at least 4 and the colours vary between brands, each one has at least 8 different colours, our village shop has just 2 4 spray or brush on RTB water based polyurethane (I spray until I have the surface milky white on a horizontal surface, this is a heavy coat) either gloss or semi matt, aesthetic choice. drying before recoating time is between 30 minutes and 2 hours depending on atmospheric conditions (as I spray I have managed 6 or 8 coats in a day just because I can 1 or 2 were enough) if you recoating you may need to denib. EDIT the exterior poly is quite soft so not suitable for flat horizontal surfaces such as tables indoors, I haven’t used it outside so it maybe OK. NB do not thin it more than 5% ~ 10% ever, and thinning it will only be needed for spraying if you have limited spray equipment. these are using coloured shellac on the draw faces each bank is a different number these are using No.8 shellac

You absolutely can, just make sure they are turned off before you start, it can take almost 10 minutes before the water runs clear.

That is in the PEA regulations posted above, so the AFIK is not required. The MEA text is under So in short both authorities have the same rules.

Having had iPads for about 11 years, Apple having released commercial apps weekly for free, having needed to many different apps for teaching purposes, and having spent considerable time in 3 countries and needing others for short visits the number grows, so absolutely yes because I can

Why what?

Proof reading problem and *** autocorrect