sometimewoodworker

That is incorrect. Did you pay attention to the point that I specified “any bike with larger wheels” So you have probably at least 45 years less experience than I have and a few hundred thousand miles less. the point of using a bike with larger wheels is that the gyroscopic effect makes them more stable so given 2 small bikes of equal weight the one with the larger wheels is more stable once it is moving than the small wheeled one The weight of the bike is not a significant factor with an experienced rider, it was inexperience not weight that caused the fall See above, the controllability is not primarily a factor of speed though at higher speeds the gyroscopic effect is greater and certainly at 170kmh it’s definitely preferable to have the stability of large wheels. even at low speeds large wheels are a significant advantage. You should try the Japanese unlimited motorcycle test that involves a Balance beam. 15 metres long; 30cm wide. To be crossed over (feet up) in 7 seconds for medium bikes and 10 seconds for big bikes. FWIW my time was over 13 seconds giving a speed of 4kph vs required max of 5.4 kph or 7.7 kph for the medium bike. That test along with several others are all but impossible on a small wheeled bike, one is the Cattle grid. Small ramps unevenly spaced out over 8 meters. To be crossed standing on the bike in over 10 seconds Pass the full Japanese unlimited M/C test (pass rate is about 5%) and I will have respect for your abilities.

A scooter is much difficult to ride and master than any bike with larger wheels. So a Honda click is not a good choice. FWIW I have been riding bikes for the last 53 years with several hundreds of thousands of miles and in quite a reasonably large number of countries travelled.

I would also be interested, though it is almost certainly chipboard as is a majority of ‘IKEA products. The difference is likely to be in the grade of chipboard used along with the plastic wrap/veneer used to seal it. I doubt that solid wood is being used, but would like to be surprised.

I think that you don’t understand the way dual numbers work. The phone can only communicate with one number at a time, so it’s impossible for one number to act as a hotspot for the other number on the same phone. One phone or mobile hotspot can provide a Wi-Fi connection for multiple devices, but not itself. your best choice maybe a mobile hotspot, these are not expensive.

You can have 2 numbers active though naturally you can only use them after each other. With the iPhone you can have multiple e-sims though you can still only have 2 active at one time. there is nothing to change for receiving calls, depending on the phone you may specify which number is used when you call a specific number.

Just possibly, the second section of roof is designed to accommodate water tanks, it looks pretty but I might have not left an opening for the water tanks. Other than that probably no I would have done it the same way.

Unless you have an extremely reliable power source I would consider having a ready use thank (500~1000 litres) high enough to provide water flow when the power is out. Our tank isn’t high enough to give great pressure but is high enough to provide enough to continue a shower, fill the toilets and provide hand/plate washing water. This flows because we have used 32mm pipe and 45 degree bends everywhere only dropping down to 12mm at the outlets

As I have actually used the product I suggested, along with the MrFixIt version I am well aware of how to use it and what it will actually do. So no the mortar joints will not prove a problem and filling them is unlikely to be needed. Why is that? Is it because when I actually know exactly what I am talking about, have used the products and know their weaknesses I don’t let incorrect information go without a challenge? Exactly how many times have you used Flintcoat? I suspect I know the answer. Recommending the product you specified because it can be applied to a wet surface makes little difference to both the products I mentioned since they are water based. Though I would not actually use them in the rain.

If you are talking about the METOD article No. 10271029 then the levelling capacity is almost double that at 35mm though I wouldn’t add them with the cabinets in position. I fitted them first

It needs cleaning, it could certainly use painting again, or there is no rust apart from a little on the closure. I am surprised that 2 of the sherawood slats have broken on one half and we should get round to replacing them.

It is simple, but not very cheap. Just make sure you have your Verizon number set for international roaming, then make a call using the Verizon number as the originator, calls to the US number should come through automatically. there are les expensive ways but they are much more complex.

It’s far less difficult than you imagine, yes you need to brush off loose stuff and vegetation, no you don’t need it as clean as you suggest. No you definitely don’t need to pressure wash.. I’ve used the product it’s far more forgiving than you think

How could it be? You're surely mistaken... According to this forum's consensus good tradesmen are impossible to find. ???????? Edited 32 minutes ago by unheard good tradesmen are not completely impossible to find, they are just really really difficult, so the wise keep the knowledge and hope that they will be available next time. An example is this concept drawing that became this model and the finished project More details for those who want

While the increased explanation is probably useful, I can see no way that it applies to the current situation. I agree that for water tanks you must waterproof the inside. water is falling (not rising damp) that water is coming through the wall. (The wall is getting soaked, lateral damp, yes) the waterproof paint will go on the outside A waterproof paint will stop the majority, if not all the water penetration of the wall. (No lateral damp) Qed there is no water in the wall so no hydrostatic pressure against the waterproof paint Certainly if the wall was getting wet from the inside your statements could well be true but it isn’t so they aren’t. @HighPriority please explain how this is not correct

That statement doesn’t make sense, as you have your waterproof painted coating on the outside, the rain hits the waterproof coating and falls down. So how is the water seeping through a waterproof coating? Unless the coating isn’t waterproof, and even then it’s remarkably difficult to push the coating off the wall since the surface is rough, and even if the coating isn’t completely waterproof you are not going to have significant water penetration. So please explain more completely as either your concept is wrong or your explanation lacks significant detail

While you do need your passport to register the phone number AFIR I didn’t need it to transfer from the physical sim to the e-sim. But then I wasn’t taking notes.

Either proper screws (not the pot metal junk supplied, though actually they are not bad quality but the thread is wrong for the plywood/compressed cardboard) or proper inserts (not the press fit ones you have, they are designed for dense wood) like these don’t use an Allen key to insert them, use a bolt with 2 nuts you can lock together Hear is an example of what you have and what you actually need the fine pitch is for dense wood like the denser hardwood found here along with species like Yew. For softer wood and composite like rubber wood, plywood and chipboard, to name a few, you want the course thread.

Why do you think that? However you are wrong. I have an AIS number all I did was to go into the AIS shop (not Teliwiz) and they transferred the physical SIM to an eSIM. AFIK in Thailand you can not add a eSIM yourself, you must go into the providers shop. You can use either pre-pay or PAYG

I agree Again I agree Totally false. there are millions of USB-A chargers and outlets, a tiny fraction of those are anything but 5V 1A or 5V 2.1A Can you buy a usb-a quick charger? Of course you can, but the majority opt for the cheaper version. Again wrong wall sockets with quick charge are rare and ones with usb-c ports are even les common The cost of the sockets with quality USB quick charge ports will be in the region of over 1,000 Baht per socket, so nobody is going to make them a standard install. In my case my install would have cost an extra 100,000 Baht for little benefit. These costs are the reason for the chargers being available.

if you cut through a joint that has been done by someone (Thai or other) who doesn’t pay attention and actually follow the instructions, you will see why doing it yourself makes sense. However as you haven’t put your location in your profile it’s impossible to suggest someone who can help.

The welder isn’t very expensive (about 3,000 Baht) you may well find a used one for sale, I did, along with the pipe cutter at about 200 Baht You can easily teach yourself with a length of pipe and a few straight couplers, it will take you all of 10 to 20 minutes and cutting some joints lengthways to prove the joint integrity.

There is no problem to DIY green (PPR) pipe, I do it. You only need the welder and you are set. as to good idea, I’ve never seen a PPR joint fail, but several PVC ones. there are a variety of screw fittings available for PPR and once fitted you can screw the blue PVC to them

It’s certainly possible that the fast charge USB-A devices exist. However the overwhelming percentage of USB-A charging sockets (a guess but probably correct at 99.9999%) are not capable of fast charging and are limited to 5v 2.1A high power and 5v 1A normal So that unicorns exist doesn’t mean that you will ever find one, though you can buy one yourself. ???? however with USB-C 28V/5A is possible and 20V/3A is likely and all the chargers I’ve seen are adaptive power. then of course there is the advisability of powering a USB charging socket 24/7/365

there is a MrFixit product that does the same job

That is a ridiculously alarmist statement. There is little, if any, danger in taking the cover off unless it has been wired by a complete numpty and the cover itself is live. Who is ever going to have anything other than a metal screwdriver? Once the cover is off, then you have to be careful where you use uninsulated metal tools and if you don’t know what you are doing then don’t use tools inside, true statement. ”a sure fire way to kill yourself”? Not hardly. Can you kill yourself? Yes but you have to be unlucky to manage that. @NorthernRyland please ignore @Tropposurfers comments. a moderate amount of caution is warranted but the OTT warning is not.