If the stumps  are big enough to drill a hole in and fill with potassium nitrate it  might be a  soil harmless way. Not sure if it works for  live stumps but it causes dead ones to rot away quickly. Maybe  will do both?

3 hours ago, DaRoadrunner said:

Could you learn to co-exist with the flora and fauna of this world? Or perhaps you could spray yourself with this stuff.

I completely understand your point of view, but, he has more than once pointed out that there are numerous wild trees growing in among his commercial trees. I think this shows his ability to farm commercially AND take mother nature into consideration. We need to find a balance between co-existing with nature and making a buck or two. 

I for one never use chemicals on my (small) property, but then again, I only have 2.5 rai to care for. 

2-4D is absorbed by the plant through the leaves and causes the plant to rapidly grow to death.  It is volatile in warm weather and can drift.  It's for broad-leaf plants, not grasses. 

 

https://extension.psu.edu/amines-or-esters-which-should-you-use

 

Many brush killers are a mix.  " Most combination products contain 2, 4,-D, dicamba, triclopyr, or MCPA ..."

8 hours ago, DaRoadrunner said:

Could you learn to co-exist with the flora and fauna of this world? Or perhaps you could spray yourself with this stuff.

The majority of the trees we are trying to kill are a creeping type of tree that sends out roots far and wide, which popup wherever, and crowd out whatever you are trying to grow. And the main one I am having problems this year also sends out vines above ground that wrap and choke out the other growth. These vines grow at an incredible pace. For the most part, when we identify a friendly tree that simply grows up and looks nice, we leave it be.

 

Have tried drilling into the stumps and using a herbicide, not roundup, due recent research on it. Drilling the roots and using strong salt solution or herbicide into the holes, could take lot applications

On 6/14/2019 at 3:53 PM, canuckamuck said:

The majority of the trees we are trying to kill are a creeping type of tree that sends out roots far and wide, which popup wherever, and crowd out whatever you are trying to grow. And the main one I am having problems this year also sends out vines above ground that wrap and choke out the other growth. These vines grow at an incredible pace. For the most part, when we identify a friendly tree that simply grows up and looks nice, we leave it be.

 

Hey Canuckamuck;  I missed your discussion on weed tree control until now.  I have had a lot of experience with vegetation management and can offer some suggestions.  I hesitate to put it out on the forum because of current public opinion about glyphosate (RoundUp), which is largely due to over reaction to mis-information and inappropriate use and lack of common precautions with pesticide use, resulting in unnecessary environmental and personal exposure.  I am putting it out because I believe that educating about spot spraying is better than uninformed broadcast spraying and wide-scale environmental exposure. But glyphosate is the most effective product for this type of spot spray application, and appropriate with discretional use in biorational, least toxic vegetation management program. Better than all the guess work and speculation and more toxic recommendations represented in the preceding posts.  BTW, I'm 73 on Thursday, still working, and don't have cancer or any other pesticide related illness that I know of.  I've managed pesticide use and safe practices education of employees for a large public utilities Integrated Vegetation Management program. IVM is what you describe of your intention and practices. 

 

Don't use products with other broadleaf week killers, dicamba or 2, 4-D, as they are known to be absorbed by roots of other trees and translocate into non-target trees and shrubs, like your tea plants. 

 

What you do is spot spray onto the target plant cut stumps immediately after making the cut, with a solution of 20 to 25% of the active ingredient glyphosate. 

 

So that means if you start with a glyphosate concentrate that is 48% of the active ingredient, dilute it 50:50 with water. Put it in a small hand held pump up sprayer, or an ironing type trigger spray bottle.  Carry that with you when you make the final cuts, and spray directly onto the cut stump surface. Not onto the outer bark or the soil surface, just directed onto the cut stump itself with no major  overspray. No need to drill holes.

 

The substance will be absorbed into the conductive tissue of the plant and translocated throughout the root system, without significant environmental exposure.  It won't translocate into plants of other species.  Use chemical resistant gloves, long sleeve shirt, pants, boots and socks, and eye protection to avoid personal exposure. The people who are getting cancer from pesticide use, I guarantee are not using these simple PPEs, personal protective equipment and methods of avoiding exposure. 

 

Because of the running root systems of the target vines that you describe, this will probably take a couple of years process. 

On 6/15/2019 at 6:17 AM, RJRS1301 said:

Have tried drilling into the stumps and using a herbicide, not roundup, due recent research on it. Drilling the roots and using strong salt solution or herbicide into the holes, could take lot applications

 

Good info .

 I have a similar problem . Could you advise me of a herbicide i could buy, thank you.

 

 

 

 

On 6/13/2019 at 6:40 PM, grollies said:

You answered your own question....."These trees come up from the roots...."

 

You have to dig the roots out with a backhoe. I've cut down and dug up around 200 rubber trees. No sign of them growing back yet.

You got rid of all your rubber now?

200 trees is approx 3 rai?

when i lived in denver, colo. had a neighbor who cut down two fruit trees in his yard, at ground level.  the roots would send up sprouts a good ways from the stump. mowing them didn't kill them.  i had some copper sulfate crystals used to kill roots in my sewer pipes.  we drilled holes into the stumps, put in crystals and by the following spring no more shoots and no lawn damage.

you can by it in chiang rai at chemical shops in small amounts, cheap.  it used in swimming pools also.  

44 minutes ago, IraqRon said:

when i lived in denver, colo. had a neighbor who cut down two fruit trees in his yard, at ground level.  the roots would send up sprouts a good ways from the stump. mowing them didn't kill them.  i had some copper sulfate crystals used to kill roots in my sewer pipes.  we drilled holes into the stumps, put in crystals and by the following spring no more shoots and no lawn damage.

you can by it in chiang rai at chemical shops in small amounts, cheap.  it used in swimming pools also.  

Thanks for that, as I have been wanting to get some copper sulfate anyhow. I have never seen a chemical shop in CR though. Do you know of one?

1 hour ago, canuckamuck said:

Thanks for that, as I have been wanting to get some copper sulfate anyhow. I have never seen a chemical shop in CR though. Do you know of one?

yes, on the side of hwy one, left hand side if you heading south.  just as you pass the intersection with the street going to bus station #1, heading south, slide quick to exit to the service rd. the chem shop is about 50 meters from there, usually has a sign in front saying salt (for pools). further south is honda car dealer and then road to wiang chai. lots of other chems stocked.  sulfanated copper, blue, one kilo 150baht, may have smaller pks. code on invoice 3023 i think.  World Chemical Group.

6 minutes ago, IraqRon said:

yes, on the side of hwy one, left hand side if you heading south.  just as you pass the intersection with the street going to bus station #1, heading south, slide quick to exit to the service rd. the chem shop is about 50 meters from there, usually has a sign in front saying salt (for pools). further south is honda car dealer and then road to wiang chai. lots of other chems stocked.  sulfanated copper, blue, one kilo 150baht, may have smaller pks. code on invoice 3023 i think.  World Chemical Group.

 Thanks, I know right where that is.

23 hours ago, thaiguzzi said:

You got rid of all your rubber now?

200 trees is approx 3 rai?

Hi. No, cleared the three rai to build the chicken farm last year. Trees were five years old. Still got around 12 rai of mature trees. Got rid of the last lot of tappers, the new guys are pretty good, production is up, around 450kg last harvest. Opened another 60 trees this week. Pity the price is still crap, B20/kg last sale at the weigh-in. Might build another chicken shed next year ROI is around 25-30%.

Handle copper sulfate with care, protect yourself, your eyes and skin, kids, pets, and especially don't contaminate fish ponds, it is extremely toxic to fish.  Store it in lock up to prevent accidental exposure by kids or others who may not know the toxic effects of handling or breathing the concentrate. 

 

I have had an excessive exposure to copper sulfate while mixing and spreading soil mineral amendments without eye and respiratory protection.  It's no fun.

 

http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/cuso4gen.html

 

http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles/extoxnet/carbaryl-dicrotophos/copper-sulfate-ext.html