Yearly update on my pool, year 8.

[AllanB]

Just thought I would give a yearly update on my pool, which has a few unconventional features.

 

It is a standard 8m x 4m x 1.2m dp, full basket reinforced conctrete and tiled, I use a polyester bag filter housed in a modified skimmer, 3 main jets and cheap Chinese 1/2kW pump from Global and a simple timeswitch and apart from a 2 channel consumer unit, with RCD, that's it. Oh and it has a roof, all steel.... and we added two high level jets, to airate the water, helping the ph balance.

 

We live in Thailand between 6 and 9 months of the year and the drain it when we go away. It is safe to do this, as empty it was built heavier than the water it would displace, so won't lift. Don't try this with a fibreglass pool.

 

So this year, after again finding zero damage, we cleaned it with a mop/bucket/bleach and filled it up, which took 2 1/2 days and around 40m2 of water. I filter the incomming water using a 1 micron bag and drop a couple of chrorine tablets under the bag to get things started. In previous years we start the pump and all is well, however, this year the high level jets showed signs of air ingress, spluttering a little. This appeared to be down to the o-ring seal in the bowl of the pump, so I went out to find a repalcement, "no way Pedro", so I used the slightly damaged o-ring and siliconed it to the bowl then used some silicone grease on the lid. Problem solved, buy a new one next year.

 

This year I bought my second new batch of filter bags from Ebay £12 for 4, (2 at 25micron, a 1 and 10micron) the downside is that they are designed for oil and have steel rings, so I get a local woman here to sew some replacement stainless steel rings in instead.

 

In previous years I have experimented with pump running times and a few chemicals and now run the pump for 1 1/2 hours a day and add two chlorine tablets every 10 days and that's it, nothing more. When guests use the pool, I insist they use the outside toilet I built and nowadays have no issues.

 

So 7-8 years on I am very happy with the pool and don't know anyone who has lower running costs and less trouble. I think this a very good system requiring minimal water top-up each week, to compensate for evaporation and splashing. The roof also means you can swim during heat of the day, but mid winter the water is a little chilly, but only when you first get in. Like now the water temperature is 24c and that is as low as it ever gets.

[kwak250]

Very interesting i keep meaning to get a pool so when i eventually fo this will be great to read through again many thanks.

[Elkski]

1 1/2 hours a day seems short.   By high jet do you  mean it sprays up  into the air?  Do you test  often. Cl, all, ca?

 

Need a retractable cover.  

[RocketDog]

Is this a saltwater pool with the chlorine generator cell, or do you add chlorine frequently?

 

My pumps run 5.5 hrs total each day in two periods and I wonder if that's really necessary. By far the largest portion of pool operating cost is the electricity. 

Thanks

[Odin Norway]

49 minutes ago, RocketDog said:

Is this a saltwater pool with the chlorine generator cell, or do you add chlorine frequently?

 

My pumps run 5.5 hrs total each day in two periods and I wonder if that's really necessary. By far the largest portion of pool operating cost is the electricity. 

Thanks

If he run the pool 1,5 hr only every day and only ad 2 clorine tablets every 2 weeks it can not be salt water.With only filter-bags.Hmmm.Sounds strange that it can be very clean.It may look clean but I would not bet on it. Running your pump 5,5 hr do not tell us anything.We need the sice of the pool and the sice of your pump to think anything.I get away with 3 hr on a 67 cube pool,clorinator and a 1,5hp pump.My pump moves 27 cubes an hour it says in the spesifications.Of course all the water would not be turned but my clorin level is very stable on 1,5-2,5ppm.I use clear-bright sandfilter.

[AllanB]

In the 7-8 years since I built the pool, I have experimented a lot, indeed I added the spray jets after I built the pool. I have changed chlorine levels and pump times and come up with my current optimums.

I originally built the pool with an infinity edge and changed that to a skimmer system after a year of dealing with a messy and undersized tank, so I have made mistakes along the way.

 

There are a number of factors that allow short running times and these low levels of chlorine.

1. The roof means low evaporation levels and much less UV to destroy the chlorine indeed there is vertually no direct sunlight on the pool at all.

2. The bag filter means no pump pressure loss = maximum flow levels from the pump and higher jet velocities. A sand filter puts quite a heavy load on the pump, slowing the flow considerably and the cleaning effect isn't as good as a low micron bag filter. Rather than guessing, I can look at the state of the bag and clean it when it gets dirty and I tend to use a finer mesh bag when the weather gets hot, but it means it needs cleaning it more often. The high level jets tell me when the filter is dirty as it is on the suction side of the pump, so the pump cavitates and pulses slightly. All this flexibilty means I can sort problems out before they occur and preventing algy is 100 times easier than trying to get rid of it. 

3. As a result, my ph levels stay pretty constant without any correction chemicals, indeed I bought some ph+ quite a few years ago and have never had a need to use it up. I bought some shock chlorine years ago too and that is still on the shelf.

4. The more different types and larger quantities of chemicals you use the more problems you have, sticking to one makes things much more straightforward. Howver, this is very much dependant on the pool design, the equipment used and.... well having a roof.

5. The roof and the fact that the pool is half about ground level, except along one side, means mush less dirt ingress and any leaves that do blow in are fished out in the morning. So phosphate levels are kept very low.

6. Finally I do encourage friends and neighbours to use the pool as this helps with water circulation, we have a simple volleyball net set up and these games create a lot of water agitation, which often goes on for hours. Ideal for the water, but we do have to top up after.

 

Incidentally bag filters are available in many mesh sizes, I tend to alternate between 25 and 10 micron for general use, pop a 5 micron from time to time and use a 1 micron, or even a 500 pico (I got from China) to clean the pool. My pool cleaner is a home made jobby, using a submersible pump on a pole feeding a bag filter hanging from the roof.

 

Questions

1. What is a clean and bright sand filter?

2. The spec of the pump is one thing, but what is the actual flowrate, have you measured it?

3. I have never undestood salt water systems, could someone please tell me why?

 

 

[rech]

how much did you pay for it and who made it ? thank you.

 

 

[AllanB]

2 hours ago, rech said:

how much did you pay for it and who made it ? thank you.

 

 

I built it, well my wife's family did the building work, I did the plumbing and electrics along with design and project managing. It cost about B350,000 including the roof. Took about 6 weeks.

 

That was around 8 years ago though.

[Bagwain]

The roof is stopping most of the problems that would occur!! 

[daveAustin]

How are your combined chlorine readings? No disrespect intended as you clearly have a passion for it, but I am always wary of pool owners that state they never bother with shock (unstabilised chlorine). Shock dosing is part of standard pool maintenance to take care of chloramine build-up (should it be significant) and would be a given unless you are really on top of your dosing/testing.

 

Would also worry about fibre as method of pool filtration (it's not a tub). You'd have to be very studious about cleaning as you will not have the capacity of sand filtration, while any caught nasties will go right back in. Pool pumps are designed to operate under load and high flow rate is not a biggie (more about time) - just ask Olympic swimmers. Anyhow, it sounds like you have a setup there and don't want to rain on your parade, though I would urge to test total against free chlorine levels especially if you have little kiddies getting in there. 

[sappersrest]

Shock dosing will not get rid of chlormines ie combined chlorine. it will just adjust the amount of free available chlorine ,available for disinfection ( the amount of hypochlorous acid}

 It will raise  the amount of free available chlorine, once the demand has been met the combined chlorine will  raise again significantly and so on ad finitum.

Shock dosing is a very important tool tool to remedy such problems as algae and end of season lay up etc'

The ONLY real way to beat combined chlorines is dilution.

If you have the money and expertise full flow UV is the way to go . It is a great form of disinfection in both dealing with pathogens and combined chlorines,  but don't believe in all the claims the manufactures make.

One of the most important  things with pool ownership here is do not what ever you read on the internet etc is to allow the cynuric acid levels in your pool to exceed 30 ppm, if above that reading dilute.

Above that reading the effectiveness of the free available chlorine is greatly diminished.

 

[gk10002000]

On 2/5/2020 at 2:12 AM, AllanB said:

1. The roof means low evaporation levels and much less UV to destroy the chlorine indeed there is vertually no direct sunlight on the pool at all.

Interesting.  I am on the verge of buying my retirement home in Florida and I like warm water, so I was thinking of wanting a place that has a fair amount of sunshine on the pool.  I am looking at and strongly want a salt water type pool as my sister had one and that felt great.  UV issues had not come across so thanks for the post and I see I have some more research and reading and things to learn.

[Bagwain]

I deal with arguably the best & strongest brand of salt chlorinators on the market. 3 model ranges. Standard, Eco Low salt & "Oxy Minerale" Also an "Oxy Minerale UV" which uses pink Himalayan salt & creates active oxygen particles (Anolyte) that are a residual sanitiser as apposed to chlorine. Made in Australia with 100% Australian parts. These machines are bulletproof & come with extended warranties. Perfect for tropical condistions. Most other brands are made in China or with Chinese parts. They don't like the constant humidity that is experienced in Thailand & surrounds. Google PuraPool.

[AllanB]

On 2/9/2020 at 3:22 AM, daveAustin said:

How are your combined chlorine readings? No disrespect intended as you clearly have a passion for it, but I am always wary of pool owners that state they never bother with shock (unstabilised chlorine). Shock dosing is part of standard pool maintenance to take care of chloramine build-up (should it be significant) and would be a given unless you are really on top of your dosing/testing.

 

Would also worry about fibre as method of pool filtration (it's not a tub). You'd have to be very studious about cleaning as you will not have the capacity of sand filtration, while any caught nasties will go right back in. Pool pumps are designed to operate under load and high flow rate is not a biggie (more about time) - just ask Olympic swimmers. Anyhow, it sounds like you have a setup there and don't want to rain on your parade, though I would urge to test total against free chlorine levels especially if you have little kiddies getting in there. 

A bag or cartridge filter is pretty simple, it stops everything above a given partical size and unlike a sand filter it is easy to clean, easy to prove it is clean and doesn't waste water. When it is mounted on the suction side of the pump, it warns you when it is blocked, if not you fit a pressure gauge, so why would you be worried?

 

Why would you need to shock-chlorine if the chlorine is doing it's job?

 

All water pumps are designed to operate under load, water is not compressible, so I don't understand your point, but if you are implying these pumps are designed to work under a heavy load, that is untrue. The higher the load the lower the flowrate and lower the dischange velocity, all bad news for water circulation. The higher the flowrate the less running time required, plus a pump working harder and running for longer, the shorter the lifecycle of the pump.

 

Ask olympic swimmers, no you got me there????

 

My chlorine levels are fine and water is crystal clear, as someone mentioned the roof plays a big part in that. It is a combination of factors all of which play their part, the downside is the low water temperatures which don't suit everyone.

[OneMoreFarang]

On 2/4/2020 at 1:53 PM, AllanB said:

It is a standard 8m x 4m

That's way too big!

Pool tables are supposed to be 8 foot by 4 foot or maybe 9' x 4.5'

Back to the drawing board!

 

[gk10002000]

On 2/9/2020 at 9:29 PM, Bagwain said:

I deal with arguably the best & strongest brand of salt chlorinators on the market. 3 model ranges. Standard, Eco Low salt & "Oxy Minerale" Also an "Oxy Minerale UV" which uses pink Himalayan salt & creates active oxygen particles (Anolyte) that are a residual sanitiser as apposed to chlorine. Made in Australia with 100% Australian parts. These machines are bulletproof & come with extended warranties. Perfect for tropical condistions. Most other brands are made in China or with Chinese parts. They don't like the constant humidity that is experienced in Thailand & surrounds. Google PuraPool.

PuraPool?  I am not sure exactly what product you mean.  Internet search seems to return several things.  I love the words you used but can you confirm what the company or brand name of these salt chlorinators are?  Available in the USA?  Thanks