Honda Cbr150

[Vato]

make sure the chain is oiled up, a dry chain on this bike will do that also.

[wjmark]

Tdog i would defiantly change the difference is like night and day. a guy was also advertising on mocyc for the pilot sportys

http://www.mocyc.com/store/view.php?idclassified=79572

he has the 110/80/17 but dont know what the writing sez

i would use 100/80-17 front and a 110/80-17 rear if you can get them. the 130 is to large will fit on the rim but leaks air cos its oversize.

Allan

Thanks for the size suggestions. My plan has always been to change to the Pilots, but didn't plan on the front tire going bad in the boondocks. Are those the sizes you are using now?

Still waiting for my tires. My Chiang Mai mechanic couldn't get them over the holidays, but he tried again, and says Friday.

He talked to his other mechanic, and phoned his supplier and he recommends against the 100/80 front - says it is too big for the rim and might 'donut' (his word). So it is the 90/80 for my front...

And he says a 110/80 back will certainly make the bike a lot 'heavier' in corners. For a big guy that might be perfect, but I am 65kg, so I am going for a 100/80 back tire.

He also said they were good because they were manufactured just a few months ago (November). Fresh tires are better? I guess so!

===

T-Dog - you wanted the address to my mechanic. I posted this earlier and couldn't add a map for some reason - TV.com couldn't accept the upload. It still won't. If anyone wants the map just PM me...

His name is Toy. And his shop is "Race Shop Thailand" Very nice guy - speaks a little english. Really keen to please...

On the south side of Rattanakosin road, west of the small bus station on ChangPuak road. It is before the roundabout and before the Chiang Mai Municipal Stadium (on the opposite side).

Put another way - it is about 200 meters east of ChangPuak road on the right (south) side.

089 517 1233 is his phone.

[mickba]

If one of you guys has time, could you please tell me the standard rim width, front and rear, on the CBR150. I'm planning to re-rim a Yamaha (sorry)Spark/X1R to take the same size tyres.

Also, and this might be a daft Q, but I wondered if it might be possible to use CBR150 wheels - could you tell me the measurement inside the swinging arm please.

Thanks

[dave_boo]

If one of you guys has time, could you please tell me the standard rim width, front and rear, on the CBR150. I'm planning to re-rim a Yamaha (sorry)Spark/X1R to take the same size tyres.

Also, and this might be a daft Q, but I wondered if it might be possible to use CBR150 wheels - could you tell me the measurement inside the swinging arm please.

Thanks

You should be able to use the rims....if the bolt that goes through the hub is the correct size. If possible, I'd recommend getting CBR 150R shocks as well; that way you don't have to worry about the brake mounting bracket. Be aware also that your speedo will be reporting way under what you're actually going to be going; if you had 15" rim stock and 80/90 tyres you're going to be some 10% faster than actual. This will bring you in line with what you're most likely running, since speedos usually run 10% faster than reality to keep people within the speed limit.

[mickba]

If one of you guys has time, could you please tell me the standard rim width, front and rear, on the CBR150. I'm planning to re-rim a Yamaha (sorry)Spark/X1R to take the same size tyres.

Also, and this might be a daft Q, but I wondered if it might be possible to use CBR150 wheels - could you tell me the measurement inside the swinging arm please.

Thanks

You should be able to use the rims....if the bolt that goes through the hub is the correct size. If possible, I'd recommend getting CBR 150R shocks as well; that way you don't have to worry about the brake mounting bracket. Be aware also that your speedo will be reporting way under what you're actually going to be going; if you had 15" rim stock and 80/90 tyres you're going to be some 10% faster than actual. This will bring you in line with what you're most likely running, since speedos usually run 10% faster than reality to keep people within the speed limit.

But do you know the rim width F & R of the CBR if I have to re-rim the existing wheels, as seems more likely.

I forgot about the bolt size - probably not the same eh? The X1R/Spark is already on 17" wheels, but i take your point re speedo as an 80/90 on the front is going to read different to the current 60/100 i.e. understating the actual - but only 4-5% I think?

Thanks for reply.

[dave_boo]

If one of you guys has time, could you please tell me the standard rim width, front and rear, on the CBR150. I'm planning to re-rim a Yamaha (sorry)Spark/X1R to take the same size tyres.

Also, and this might be a daft Q, but I wondered if it might be possible to use CBR150 wheels - could you tell me the measurement inside the swinging arm please.

Thanks

You should be able to use the rims....if the bolt that goes through the hub is the correct size. If possible, I'd recommend getting CBR 150R shocks as well; that way you don't have to worry about the brake mounting bracket. Be aware also that your speedo will be reporting way under what you're actually going to be going; if you had 15" rim stock and 80/90 tyres you're going to be some 10% faster than actual. This will bring you in line with what you're most likely running, since speedos usually run 10% faster than reality to keep people within the speed limit.

But do you know the rim width F & R of the CBR if I have to re-rim the existing wheels, as seems more likely.

I forgot about the bolt size - probably not the same eh? The X1R/Spark is already on 17" wheels, but i take your point re speedo as an 80/90 on the front is going to read different to the current 60/100 i.e. understating the actual - but only 4-5% I think?

Thanks for reply.

I'm out of the country right now, so I can't check the width, but I would assume that it's not that much different; a 60/100 tyre is 25% more narrow than the stock CBR tyre and correspondingly has a total diameter of 808.79 mm versus the CBR's 884.19 mm. So yes, the CBR stock tyres mounted on CBR rims will be 09% faster.

Assuming that the width of the rim is equal to the tyre width, this page seems to state that an 80/90 is between 2.5 (6.35 cm) and 2.75 (6.99 cm) inches. Conincidentally they have the 60/100 listed as the same width (which is odd since a 80/90 has a width of 80mm and the 60/100 has a width of 60mm-however the 60/100 ia listed under dirtbike tyres!?!). A tyre that's 100/80 is supposed to be only slightly wider than the front stock tyre on a CBR, and IIRC, the rims front and rear are identical.

[thaicbr]

wj mark pm sent.

your mechanic is talking horse <deleted>. the 100/80-17 and 110/80-17 is michelin recommended fitment for the cbr125 in the UK. he is telling you this <deleted> because he can't get the sizes you asked for. golila on mocyc.com has stock.

even with those stock sizes it will be better than the stock IRC'S.

'donut' jeeeezzzzzzze louise its only a little wider. if you were asking to put a 120 on then yer it would be like 'dunkin donuts'

[wjmark]

wj mark pm sent.

your mechanic is talking horse <deleted>. the 100/80-17 and 110/80-17 is michelin recommended fitment for the cbr125 in the UK. he is telling you this <deleted> because he can't get the sizes you asked for. golila on mocyc.com has stock.

even with those stock sizes it will be better than the stock IRC'S.

'donut' jeeeezzzzzzze louise its only a little wider. if you were asking to put a 120 on then yer it would be like 'dunkin donuts'

Thank you for your (believable) advice!. I have changed my order to 100/80 110/80.

And I will let you know if I end up 'dunkin donuts'...

[mickba]

If one of you guys has time, could you please tell me the standard rim width, front and rear, on the CBR150............

.............................. Be aware also that your speedo will be reporting way under what you're actually going to be going...........

But do you know the rim width F & R of the CBR if I have to re-rim the existing wheels, as seems more likely.

The X1R/Spark is already on 17" wheels, but i take your point re speedo as an 80/90 on the front is going to read different to the current 60/100 i.e. understating the actual - but only 4-5% I think?

..... a 60/100 tyre is 25% more narrow than the stock CBR tyre and correspondingly has a total diameter of 808.79 mm versus the CBR's 884.19 mm. So yes, the CBR stock tyres mounted on CBR rims will be 09% faster.

Thanks for the chart. I think that helps, but I'd still like to know from someone what size it says on std rims please.

Re the speedo, can you correct my maths below. I am getting very old now, so I'm probably doing something stoopid

First I convert 17" to 432mm OK?

Then, for a 60/100 I add 2 x 60 = 552mm OD

for an 80/90 I add 2 x 72 = 576mm OD

576 - 552 = 24 / 552 x 100 = 4.3% faster??

How do you get to 808/884mm OD? That's a seriously big wheel!

[dave_boo]

Thanks for the chart. I think that helps, but I'd still like to know from someone what size it says on std rims please.

Re the speedo, can you correct my maths below. I am getting very old now, so I'm probably doing something stoopid

First I convert 17" to 432mm OK?

Then, for a 60/100 I add 2 x 60 = 552mm OD

for an 80/90 I add 2 x 72 = 576mm OD

576 - 552 = 24 / 552 x 100 = 4.3% faster??

How do you get to 808/884mm OD? That's a seriously big wheel!

Firstly, I'd like to point out that on the stock tyres there's little to no 'bulging' beyond the side of the rim.

Secondly, you have to measure the outer diameter of the tyre to determine the distance that it will travel in one revolution of the rim. My total diameter actually should have said 'outer' diameter. And if you multiply your values by pi, you'll see that the 80/90 ends up 09% faster.

[thaicbr]

Stop doing the maths. put some sticky tyres on and ride the bloody thing.

all this 4.3% faster is <deleted>. skinny tyres are crap, fat bulging tyres are crapo. ideal size tyres are fuc_king wonderful.

I had the Michelins on a CBR150 and even with my fat arse 114k AND a 130/70-17 rear tyre (not recommended) it would still go to 145kmh on the clock.

the 100/80-17 and 110/80-17 are perfect for the Cbr150 for all round performance, braking and stability. also the extra confidence that they inspire means you go faster, safer.

[taichiplanet]

Stop doing the maths. put some sticky tyres on and ride the bloody thing.

all this 4.3% faster is <deleted>. skinny tyres are crap, fat bulging tyres are crapo. ideal size tyres are fuc_king wonderful.

I had the Michelins on a CBR150 and even with my fat arse 114k AND a 130/70-17 rear tyre (not recommended) it would still go to 145kmh on the clock.

the 100/80-17 and 110/80-17 are perfect for the Cbr150 for all round performance, braking and stability. also the extra confidence that they inspire means you go faster, safer.

Finally got my bike back yesterday after a month at the mechanics. Thanks to Alan's advice I got the Mich Pilot Sportys 90/80 front and 100/80 rear. They had them in 2 days after i ordered them for B2500. Everyone i asked a month ago couldn't get the 110/80 . Big difference in feel from the IRC, i feel a lot more confident on the bike. Had to do an emergency stop about 2 mins after getting the bike back and it pulled up very nicely!

Had the carby changed to 28mm and they 'reworked' the original muffler. Seems to go a lot harder but difficult to compare as spent the last month on the gf's scooter. I've just been cruising around town and getting used to it again but i am happy with it. Except that it stalls at lights, i think the idle is a little low or maybe the carby is suffering from heat sink. The mechanic said it will get better once the bike is used more, which it has slightly, but maybe it was a polite Thai way of saying 'Go away'! The paint work they did is very good, just the refitting of the panels is not correctly aligned. No big deal but a little annoying; one day i will pull the panels off and clean up the frame anyway. The problem is that there are several bike shows now and they are busy preparing a few bikes. They just won B100k for a Yamy Nuovo, so i can see why they wouldn't bother too much at the moment with pissant jobs like mine!

It is not much more noisy except for the induction noise has increased, they put a 'Thai Racing' air pod on it. Not sure about the quality of it but seems ok for the moment. I am guessing it goes as hard at low revs as before but once it hits about 5k it starts to pull a lot harder than before. Im really haven't had the opportunity (or confidence) to rev it out.

Is it worth while getting the exhaust header pipe (manifold to exhaust) changed to a bigger size?

WJ, how's your bike going? Still beating everthing off the lights?!

[thaicbr]

YES,YES,YES. The header pipe is where most of the restriction is if they haven't changed that yet then they are muppets. i would suggest changing it soon as. and then get yourself to dirtshop or lekcdi for a dyno run and tune its about 1,000 baht ish.

when you rev it at standstill and let go do the revs drop quickly or does it seem to hang. because it could just need jetting properly. what you had done was what my mechanic suggested for mine but i sold it instead to buy a truck. if you are ever around Nakhom Pathom drop in and see him. he is the best mechanic i have found so far, a natural. the problem with a lot of Thai 'mechanics' is they are so used to tuning Drag bikes/scooters which is all top end, that they dont know how to tune correctly for the road.

Allan

[wjmark]

Stop doing the maths. put some sticky tyres on and ride the bloody thing.

all this 4.3% faster is <deleted>. skinny tyres are crap, fat bulging tyres are crapo. ideal size tyres are fuc_king wonderful.

I had the Michelins on a CBR150 and even with my fat arse 114k AND a 130/70-17 rear tyre (not recommended) it would still go to 145kmh on the clock.

the 100/80-17 and 110/80-17 are perfect for the Cbr150 for all round performance, braking and stability. also the extra confidence that they inspire means you go faster, safer.

Finally got my bike back yesterday after a month at the mechanics. Thanks to Alan's advice I got the Mich Pilot Sportys 90/80 front and 100/80 rear. They had them in 2 days after i ordered them for B2500. Everyone i asked a month ago couldn't get the 110/80 . Big difference in feel from the IRC, i feel a lot more confident on the bike. Had to do an emergency stop about 2 mins after getting the bike back and it pulled up very nicely!

Had the carby changed to 28mm and they 'reworked' the original muffler. Seems to go a lot harder but difficult to compare as spent the last month on the gf's scooter. I've just been cruising around town and getting used to it again but i am happy with it. Except that it stalls at lights, i think the idle is a little low or maybe the carby is suffering from heat sink. The mechanic said it will get better once the bike is used more, which it has slightly, but maybe it was a polite Thai way of saying 'Go away'! The paint work they did is very good, just the refitting of the panels is not correctly aligned. No big deal but a little annoying; one day i will pull the panels off and clean up the frame anyway. The problem is that there are several bike shows now and they are busy preparing a few bikes. They just won B100k for a Yamy Nuovo, so i can see why they wouldn't bother too much at the moment with pissant jobs like mine!

It is not much more noisy except for the induction noise has increased, they put a 'Thai Racing' air pod on it. Not sure about the quality of it but seems ok for the moment. I am guessing it goes as hard at low revs as before but once it hits about 5k it starts to pull a lot harder than before. Im really haven't had the opportunity (or confidence) to rev it out.

Is it worth while getting the exhaust header pipe (manifold to exhaust) changed to a bigger size?

WJ, how's your bike going? Still beating everthing off the lights?!

Bike going good (going well?)!. ThaiCBR is right about the header pipe - makes a big difference.

I am hoping for my new tires soon...

[mickba]

Thanks for the chart. I think that helps, but I'd still like to know from someone what size it says on std rims please.

Re the speedo, can you correct my maths below. I am getting very old now, so I'm probably doing something stoopid

First I convert 17" to 432mm OK?

Then, for a 60/100 I add 2 x 60 = 552mm OD

for an 80/90 I add 2 x 72 = 576mm OD

576 - 552 = 24 / 552 x 100 = 4.3% faster??

How do you get to 808/884mm OD? That's a seriously big wheel!

..........you have to measure the outer diameter of the tyre to determine the distance that it will travel in one revolution of the rim. My total diameter actually should have said 'outer' diameter. And if you multiply your values by pi, you'll see that the 80/90 ends up 09% faster.

Sorry but I'm still not with you as you haven't said what's wrong with my maths. Yes I know about pi (3.142) to get circumference, but that doesn't make the % any different as it's a constant.

I just get 1734 - 1810 which is still about 4.3% I think?

Since a motorbike wheel is unlikely to be 884 (about 35 inches) outer diameter, I've gathered that by OD (outer diameter) you actually mean circumference, though I still can't get near to 808/884 unless I use Pi x r, but circumference is 2 x Pi x r, or Pi x D - and even then...........

OK, never mind. I'll stop a CBR150 at the lights and look myself.

Thanks anyway and to the other guy, yes I'm looking at some decent rubber and I'm hearing what you're saying, but I want a bit more of it on the road than the T135/X1R comes with - up2me right?

I'll scoot off now. Sorry to have bothered you.

[taichiplanet]

YES,YES,YES. The header pipe is where most of the restriction is if they haven't changed that yet then they are muppets. i would suggest changing it soon as. and then get yourself to dirtshop or lekcdi for a dyno run and tune its about 1,000 baht ish.

when you rev it at standstill and let go do the revs drop quickly or does it seem to hang. because it could just need jetting properly. what you had done was what my mechanic suggested for mine but i sold it instead to buy a truck. if you are ever around Nakhom Pathom drop in and see him. he is the best mechanic i have found so far, a natural. the problem with a lot of Thai 'mechanics' is they are so used to tuning Drag bikes/scooters which is all top end, that they dont know how to tune correctly for the road.

Allan

That's what i thought, i tried to get across several times when i first brought the bike to them by pointing at the header pipe. It's a pain not knowing the lingo!

The revs seem to hang and slowly die over a period of 15 secs or so. I've now upped the idle, so for a couple of secs it is sitting on 1700 but then drops to hunt between 1300 and 1600. I can probably get it slightly better but want to ride it a bit more to see what it does. Any lower and i think it will stall.

Pity your mechanic is a fair distance from me. Can anyone recommend a good mechanic in Pattaya?

[thaicbr]

Mickba.The other guy here, if you are after some wheels try www.daiichialloy.com or call racing boy 081-483-0690 also have a look at some of the thai magazines or just go into a Thai mod up shop with a picture of an alloy wheel ( i presume you want alloy rather than spoked) and the size tyres you want to put on. i think on your bike with the standard wheels you should be able to go up 2 sizes. dunlop tt900gp's are a good sticky tyre and cheaper than the sportys.

and all i was trying to say was just go and get the stuff work with ya common sense and bobs ya uncle, fannys ya aunt you got sticky rubber.

Allan

[thaicbr]

Taichi planet. This is from a guy on the cbr250 forum who tunes his own bike. etc.

*If your bike isn’t idling quite right then the air/fuel screws are not set correctly, alittle test you can do to see if its running lean or rich at idle.

“When you release the throttle, the revs hang up a few hundred rpm above idle speed, then drop to idle, the idle mixture is probably a bit too lean. Turn the fuel screws out. Use a minimum of half turn increments until you know you've just about nailed it. You'll drive yourself up the wall trying to tune the thing in eighth or quarter turn increments if you're a mile off. In extremely lean cases the idle will hunt between the proper speed and something above it. If, when you release the throttle, the revs drop below idle speed then pick up, the idle mixture is probably a little bit too rich. Turn the fuel screws in. In extremely rich cases the engine will die after revving the bike and releasing the throttle”

The other thing it could be is the carb isn't tight on the manifold so letting in air.

be very careful running a lean bike because it could melt a hole in ya piston. don't mean to scare ya. it sounds like you really need to get that carb looked at. if ya want i will come and get you and ya bike in my truck and bring it back here for my mechanic to fix. just give us the fuel money. oh and pay Gop the mechanic but he's really cheap

Allan

[dave_boo]

Sorry but I'm still not with you as you haven't said what's wrong with my maths. Yes I know about pi (3.142) to get circumference, but that doesn't make the % any different as it's a constant.

I just get 1734 - 1810 which is still about 4.3% I think?

Since a motorbike wheel is unlikely to be 884 (about 35 inches) outer diameter, I've gathered that by OD (outer diameter) you actually mean circumference, though I still can't get near to 808/884 unless I use Pi x r, but circumference is 2 x Pi x r, or Pi x D - and even then...........

OK, never mind. I'll stop a CBR150 at the lights and look myself.

Thanks anyway and to the other guy, yes I'm looking at some decent rubber and I'm hearing what you're saying, but I want a bit more of it on the road than the T135/X1R comes with - up2me right?

I'll scoot off now. Sorry to have bothered you.

D'oh; I ran the math through Google and it split the one off the other figures....and I was too stoopid to notice the mistake. And yes, do what you want with your bike, don't listen to those who would drag you down. I wan't trying to discourage you simply point out a 'benefit' of having your speedo actually report a speed that's more in line with reality.

And thaicbr--no one is claiming that the bike will run faster (necessarily), just that the speedo 'drift' will be corrected.

[Vato]

anyone sort out the seating and the crushing of the family jewels yet?...pushing on the bars when braking seems to help, but dont want to be doing this everytime i come to a stop!

[prestburypark]

I was cruising at 120 kph on my stock 150 yesterday, when a sonic overtook me, he was wobbling a bit on those skinnys' , but I had a revelation...I gotta

do the mods I have been meaning to do, header pipe, tyres, air filter , spark plug ,cdi.

So I looked at faddys site and asked the mrs to phone..holy shit, you woulda thought Id asked to eat her babies..."factory make good, you dont understand motorbike..blah blah", wasnt expecting that, guess she loves the little bike too.

Anyway will get over that, cant have the shame of a sonic burning me off, though I coulda overtaken him again there wasnt much left for me to use,

now going to work on the mrs...

[dave_boo]

anyone sort out the seating and the crushing of the family jewels yet?...pushing on the bars when braking seems to help, but dont want to be doing this everytime i come to a stop!

I usually grip the hel_l out of the tank with my knees; don't know if that's because the ass tightens up too much and pulls on the other muscles or some sort of instinct that I built up.

I was cruising at 120 kph on my stock 150 yesterday, when a sonic overtook me, he was wobbling a bit on those skinnys' , but I had a revelation...I gotta

do the mods I have been meaning to do, header pipe, tyres, air filter , spark plug ,cdi.

So I looked at faddys site and asked the mrs to phone..holy shit, you woulda thought Id asked to eat her babies..."factory make good, you dont understand motorbike..blah blah", wasnt expecting that, guess she loves the little bike too.

Anyway will get over that, cant have the shame of a sonic burning me off, though I coulda overtaken him again there wasnt much left for me to use,

now going to work on the mrs...

Tell her that it's so slow right now that you're afraid you are going to get rear-ended by a Fortuner running up on you. Tell her that if she doesn't want to weep at your funeral you should be able to out-run those maniacial (spelling?) black death dealers. IIRC though, you just bought it new didn't you? If you're concerned about the warranty (which from your post I get the feeling your wife is more concerned than you are!) that's something to consider. If you're not concerned about the warranty I could make a suggestion-don't know how far in the doghouse it would leave you-by simply removing the bits and bobs you want to replace and slashing the tyres. Claim a vandal did it while you were in getting coffee or something and that you are going to take care of getting it fixed. Of course do this close to home or if you have a friend that has a truck to give you a ride because it's no fun pushing a 105 kilo bike with two flats for a significant distance! Also, while I'm not sure about the price differential between faddy and Goodspeed, I do know that Goodspeed has everything that faddy has (and more) and they answer their emails---IN ENGLISH with prices.

**edit**

Here's Goodspeed's website, just turn off your speakers first.

And here's the link for the CBR 150 stuff.

Contact information: Email is mailto:[email protected] and phone numbers, which they will also answer in English, (662)384-1884

Funny how they use the American version of phone numbers.

Edited January 23, 2009 by dave_boo

[thaicbr]

Prestbury don't bother with the cdi. unless it is one with a raised rev limiter (rather than no limit) when i had my bike i said to my mechanic that i wanted a cdi. he said Allan you change , motosi BOOM. he was on about the fact that no rev limiter makes it sooooooo much easier to over rev, with the boom being the result (he has seen me ride). he did suggest the bigger carb, header, cams etc. and i can confirm a Platinum spark plug helps. also tyres, change them IRC <deleted> as soon as.

he reckoned with the Mods the bike would get 160kmh easy and 170kmh sometimes eg wind behind ya.

He's a bloody good mechanic. his shop is not the typical dirty, oily shithole that many of them are. everyday tools in a box, special tools hanging on the wall. clean floor, spares on shelves etc.

if any one is interested in work on their bike, PM me.

Allan

ALSO Prest tell the missus to SHUT UP, its your bike and ya gonna do what the hel_l you like to it. thats what bikes are for they are OUR bikes not the girlfriends/wifes.

Edited January 23, 2009 by thaicbr

[Hog Head]

Sold my CBR and still have a week old PWK 28mmm flat slide carb, jets, aircleaner, the required throttle assembly, and aluminium can Endurance pipe. The carb is a genuine PWK and not the cheap PE round slide, or worse yet a copy

less than 1/2 price at 6000 B for the lot

[mickba]

Mickba.The other guy here, if you are after some wheels try www.daiichialloy.com or call racing boy 081-483-0690 also have a look at some of the thai magazines or just go into a Thai mod up shop with a picture of an alloy wheel ( i presume you want alloy rather than spoked) and the size tyres you want to put on. i think on your bike with the standard wheels you should be able to go up 2 sizes. dunlop tt900gp's are a good sticky tyre and cheaper than the sportys.

and all i was trying to say was just go and get the stuff work with ya common sense and bobs ya uncle, fannys ya aunt you got sticky rubber.

Allan

Thanks Allan.

I'm holding out for Racing Boy in the ubiquitous gold at present. I have a salesman's #, but it's 081-678-1689. I'll add yours to it thanks. I'm assuming neither would understand me, so I'm planning to get a friend or a mod up man to call him, but first I've got to establish the width of rims I want.

I'm going up to the stock CBR150 tyre sizes of 100/80 and 80/90 which is why my searches led me here, to find out the width of stock CBR wheels. I don't know the answer to that yet, but last night I had a good look at one parked up.

My conclusion is that for the rear I want a 3.15" to 3.25" and for the front a 2.75". Any comments please?

I've read through the posts here re tyres and it's between the Michelins and, as you say, the Dunlops, depending on availability and price. I'm not planning any track days (this is a 60yo boy racer) but that skinny little rear just doesn't feel good and the front no better. I'm sure they're fine for the 40 kg filipino who claims the X1R can do 165 kph, but for a 6ft 90+kg farang I think more (and better) rubber on the road would be a good idea.

I've done the Vmax, ZZR1100 and XTZ750s back in UK, but I'm going with the flow here and having a lot of fun on these little uns - plus they're just so much more practical and faster through traffic than big bikes in town. Maybe my planned trip to Phnom Penh will change my mind a little.

Meanwhile, I have to say my knowledge and interest in your bikes has grown a lot - maybe later......

Thanks for your patience and apologies for invaiding your thread. i didn't mean it to take up this much space.

[mickba]

Sorry but I'm still not with you as you haven't said what's wrong with my maths. Yes I know about pi (3.142) to get circumference, but that doesn't make the % any different as it's a constant.

I just get 1734 - 1810 which is still about 4.3% I think?

Since a motorbike wheel is unlikely to be 884 (about 35 inches) outer diameter, I've gathered that by OD (outer diameter) you actually mean circumference, though I still can't get near to 808/884 unless I use Pi x r, but circumference is 2 x Pi x r, or Pi x D - and even then...........

D'oh; I ran the math through Google and it split the one off the other figures....and I was too stoopid to notice the mistake...........

No probs - I knew what you meant, but got a bit sarcy about your maths when you insisted. Good you're not sensitive. Same same re Thaicbr. Have fun on your CBRs - they sound good.

Thanks

Mick

[thaicbr]

Mick the 1st figure sounds right for the back and the front i think is spot on. the pilot sportys are radial dunno how they would perform on an underbone and are about 2,500b a set. the Dunlop tt900gp are used in underbone bike racing so might be a better choice they are also cheaper at about 1,700-2,000 baht a set (has to be gp at the end).

also with the Dunlops you could still have wire wheels, I believe, but could be wrong that radials are no good on a wire wheel.

Allan

[prestburypark]

Prestbury don't bother with the cdi. unless it is one with a raised rev limiter (rather than no limit) when i had my bike i said to my mechanic that i wanted a cdi. he said Allan you change , motosi BOOM. he was on about the fact that no rev limiter makes it sooooooo much easier to over rev, with the boom being the result (he has seen me ride). he did suggest the bigger carb, header, cams etc. and i can confirm a Platinum spark plug helps. also tyres, change them IRC <deleted> as soon as.

he reckoned with the Mods the bike would get 160kmh easy and 170kmh sometimes eg wind behind ya.

He's a bloody good mechanic. his shop is not the typical dirty, oily shithole that many of them are. everyday tools in a box, special tools hanging on the wall. clean floor, spares on shelves etc.

if any one is interested in work on their bike, PM me.

Allan

ALSO Prest tell the missus to SHUT UP, its your bike and ya gonna do what the hel_l you like to it. thats what bikes are for they are OUR bikes not the girlfriends/wifes.

She loves it when I tell her to shut up, some woman thing..

I think she has teenage modders from the village in mind,on their sonics probably, and yeah, shes under control,I was just a bit taken aback, now Im talking about the Kwacker 600 she is suggesting we go on rides together, her on the CBR, me on the Kwacker, good girl at heart!

thanks for the heads up on the cdi, and I would love to put the work to your mechanic, Allan, but it will have to wait a bit now, back to UK for a few months

to make a few quid, if the whole place hasnt sunk into bankruptcy, will do the mods when I get back or I will find shes become a speed freak biker chick in my absence.

[thaicbr]

Ok buddy. I'm back in blighty in April to see the family. can only stand it for a week, a few months back there would drive me crazy

That Er6 would be the dogs, but just brought a truck so i'm getting Bard's Ninja 250 instead. they are cracking bikes and my plan is have a couple of years on that. by then the market for big bikes will have opened up and a lot more decent 2nd ones available. then up to 600+.

Makes lots of sense to me, the ninja's are going for between 100,000 and 125,000 depending on spec/addons. so keep your CBR stock for her, get a ninja for you. then a much more even match if you do go traveling .

[mickba]

if you are after some wheels try www.daiichialloy.com ...................dunlop tt900gp's are a good sticky tyre and cheaper than the sportys.

Hi Allan - I've been looking at the daiichialloy wheels and they certainly make some beauties, including some for the Spark/X1R, but I suspect they are only in standard width. I'm still trying to find out where there best distributor is in Pattaya if anyone knows?

Thanks also for your later comment re sizes of rims. As for which tyres I can use with spokes, I think it's just a matter of whether the tyres are rated tubed or tubeless isn't it - I thought they were all radial these days? If I go with re-rimming the spoked hubs then I must use tubed, but I'd prefer that anyway for getting punctures repaired in out of the way places - I think.

I assume all the CBRs with their mag wheels are tubeless - now if a set of them would slot into my X1R..........

Thanks Mick