Honda Cbr150

[thaicbr]

Mick. i will get my girlfriend to ask my mechanic about the wheels, maybe he will call them. will let you know.

re-rimming will be loads easier and cheaper, and i know you can get larger rim sizes (might have to order them)

and yes cbr are tubeless

Edited January 23, 2009 by thaicbr

[taichiplanet]

if you are after some wheels try www.daiichialloy.com ...................dunlop tt900gp's are a good sticky tyre and cheaper than the sportys.

Hi Allan - I've been looking at the daiichialloy wheels and they certainly make some beauties, including some for the Spark/X1R, but I suspect they are only in standard width. I'm still trying to find out where there best distributor is in Pattaya if anyone knows?

Thanks also for your later comment re sizes of rims. As for which tyres I can use with spokes, I think it's just a matter of whether the tyres are rated tubed or tubeless isn't it - I thought they were all radial these days? If I go with re-rimming the spoked hubs then I must use tubed, but I'd prefer that anyway for getting punctures repaired in out of the way places - I think.

I assume all the CBRs with their mag wheels are tubeless - now if a set of them would slot into my X1R..........

Thanks Mick

You can put tubes in a tubeless tyre. Just make sure the tube is not too big otherwise it will fold and puncture. Also make sure the inside of the wire wheel is taped up or have a band of rubber around it so that there are no sharp edges; i know i am stating the bleeding obvious but it is easily overlooked. I think Allan mentioned somewhere earlier that the dunlops are not radial but cross-plys. My personal opinion is never compromise on tyres! Mick, do you know of a good mechanic in Pattaya?

[Dave the Dude]

Hi all

If any of you guys are looking for a new black CBR150 and are willing to travel to Surin, they is a one month old 'unwanted gift' been

returned to the dealers and they are selling it for 43,000. Its done 3000 km and its spotless, still got the plastic over the seats.

My sister in law works for the shop and she assures me its been in no accidents, since they supplied it new.

I have no interest in this but just thought i'd bring it to fellow TV members attention

PM me if anyone wants numbers/directions

Dave

[mickba]

if you are after some wheels try www.daiichialloy.com ...................dunlop tt900gp's are a good sticky tyre and cheaper than the sportys.

...............As for which tyres I can use with spokes, I think it's just a matter of whether the tyres are rated tubed or tubeless isn't it - I thought they were all radial these days? If I go with re-rimming the spoked hubs then I must use tubed, but I'd prefer that anyway for getting punctures repaired in out of the way places - I think..........

You can put tubes in a tubeless tyre. Just make sure the tube is not too big otherwise it will fold and puncture. Also make sure the inside of the wire wheel is taped up or have a band of rubber around it so that there are no sharp edges; i know i am stating the bleeding obvious but it is easily overlooked. I think Allan mentioned somewhere earlier that the dunlops are not radial but cross-plys. My personal opinion is never compromise on tyres! Mick, do you know of a good mechanic in Pattaya?

I wouldn't say I've found a good mechanic but I haven't really looked yet. The re-rimming is pretty straightforward (he says optimistically) and I'd probably use the place next to the bus station (Pattaya Klang) on Sukhumvit for that and sourcing the tyres. Most superficial stuff I can do myself.

Re rim sizes, I looked up the Dunlops here http://www.dunloptyres.com.hk/e/tyres-bike-tt900gp.html and, lo and behold, they give rim widths, but they're a lot less than I'd concluded so I need to check how they're measured (2.75" rim for a 100mm wide tyre doesn't sound much but maybe so?).

The reading off a set of CBRs would still be reassuring.

The issue re fitting a tube in a tubeless (when I were a tyre fitting lad) used to be getting the air out from between the two once the bead had seated, the only route being the valve hole. It was not unusual to have customers report a puncture/near flat not far down the road, as the air eventually escaped. It didn't matter how high you took the pressure, that just sealed the valve hole more tightly, the air kept slowly slowly seeping out. Of course with a spoked wheel (even with the strip of covering rubber whose name escapes me) there are 36 other ways out so it shouldn't be such an issue.

Thanks Mick

[dave_boo]

I wouldn't say I've found a good mechanic but I haven't really looked yet. The re-rimming is pretty straightforward (he says optimistically) and I'd probably use the place next to the bus station (Pattaya Klang) on Sukhumvit for that and sourcing the tyres. Most superficial stuff I can do myself.

Re rim sizes, I looked up the Dunlops here http://www.dunloptyres.com.hk/e/tyres-bike-tt900gp.html and, lo and behold, they give rim widths, but they're a lot less than I'd concluded so I need to check how they're measured (2.75" rim for a 100mm wide tyre doesn't sound much but maybe so?).

The reading off a set of CBRs would still be reassuring.

The issue re fitting a tube in a tubeless (when I were a tyre fitting lad) used to be getting the air out from between the two once the bead had seated, the only route being the valve hole. It was not unusual to have customers report a puncture/near flat not far down the road, as the air eventually escaped. It didn't matter how high you took the pressure, that just sealed the valve hole more tightly, the air kept slowly slowly seeping out. Of course with a spoked wheel (even with the strip of covering rubber whose name escapes me) there are 36 other ways out so it shouldn't be such an issue.

Thanks Mick

Don't quote me as being correct, but since nobody else has stepped up, I believe that I remember seeing on the rims that the CBR uses a 2,75". I would go with the manufacturer's recommendation about the size of rim to use; they've studied and proven their designs to work ideally with the recommendations.

I also like the of re-rimming your wired wheels. Don't know where you live, but up in the Western part of Nakhon Sawan wired wheels offer a bit more protection than non-wired. If you hit a pot hole that's a bit too gnarly you can get some new wires threaded in on the cheap; do that with a cast wheel and you have to purchase a whole new wheel.

[wjmark]

Don't quote me as being correct, but since nobody else has stepped up, I believe that I remember seeing on the rims that the CBR uses a 2,75". I would go with the manufacturer's recommendation about the size of rim to use; they've studied and proven their designs to work ideally with the recommendations.

I will quote you as being wrong! C'mon - get it right C'mon!

Seriously, I looked at the rims on my CBR last night, and it says right on them - front 1.85 and rear 2.15. (If you look on the spokes you will find the info...)

So I talked to my mechanic again, and they cannot get the 110/80 right now (thanks ThaiCBR - we checked Golila on motocyc.com and they are out of stock for 3 months).

And again he really recommended against the 100/80 for the front. I see that the Dunlop chart (see above) shows the rim size for their 100/80 as being 2.5 with a range of 1.85 to 2.75, so it is definitely within the range. But my mechanic pulled rank on me and said that he is a professional racer (he is, and a good one), and he said 90/80 front. He then crossed his arms and just looked at me, waiting!

I asked him if 100/80 for both front and rear was ok, and he said he wants me with the 90/80 in front! So that is what I am getting - same as you, Taichiplanet (you are happy with them, aren't you?).

If after a few months I feel like changing, I will then get the 110/80 rear, and move the 100/80 to the front...

Later...

Edited January 24, 2009 by wjmark

[taichiplanet]

if you are after some wheels try www.daiichialloy.com ...................dunlop tt900gp's are a good sticky tyre and cheaper than the sportys.

...............As for which tyres I can use with spokes, I think it's just a matter of whether the tyres are rated tubed or tubeless isn't it - I thought they were all radial these days? If I go with re-rimming the spoked hubs then I must use tubed, but I'd prefer that anyway for getting punctures repaired in out of the way places - I think..........

You can put tubes in a tubeless tyre. Just make sure the tube is not too big otherwise it will fold and puncture. Also make sure the inside of the wire wheel is taped up or have a band of rubber around it so that there are no sharp edges; i know i am stating the bleeding obvious but it is easily overlooked. I think Allan mentioned somewhere earlier that the dunlops are not radial but cross-plys. My personal opinion is never compromise on tyres! Mick, do you know of a good mechanic in Pattaya?

I wouldn't say I've found a good mechanic but I haven't really looked yet. The re-rimming is pretty straightforward (he says optimistically) and I'd probably use the place next to the bus station (Pattaya Klang) on Sukhumvit for that and sourcing the tyres. Most superficial stuff I can do myself.

Re rim sizes, I looked up the Dunlops here http://www.dunloptyres.com.hk/e/tyres-bike-tt900gp.html and, lo and behold, they give rim widths, but they're a lot less than I'd concluded so I need to check how they're measured (2.75" rim for a 100mm wide tyre doesn't sound much but maybe so?).

The reading off a set of CBRs would still be reassuring.

The issue re fitting a tube in a tubeless (when I were a tyre fitting lad) used to be getting the air out from between the two once the bead had seated, the only route being the valve hole. It was not unusual to have customers report a puncture/near flat not far down the road, as the air eventually escaped. It didn't matter how high you took the pressure, that just sealed the valve hole more tightly, the air kept slowly slowly seeping out. Of course with a spoked wheel (even with the strip of covering rubber whose name escapes me) there are 36 other ways out so it shouldn't be such an issue.

Thanks Mick

Interesting about the trapped air, i never came across this problem with car wire wheels maybe because there is more room to hold the tube valve down to let the air escape. I can't remember the name for 'rubber band' for tube protection either!

The guy i went to in Naklua is okay for tyres, wheels and paint. I am just not happy with the actual finishing off on the mechanical work, seems sloppy (as most people report on many Thai 'mechanics') so i worry about what he has done now! I had a good look at the Nuovo that he last week won the Yamaha contest in Bkk, it looks great from 3 meters but closer you can see many problems. Back home in contests and Concours this sort of finishing would have a car finishing last! Not that i want to enter a contest with my bike, just have someone handy in Pattaya like the mechanic Allan has in Nakhon Pathom. The search continues!

[taichiplanet]

So I talked to my mechanic again, and they cannot get the 110/80 right now (thanks ThaiCBR - we checked Golila on motocyc.com and they are out of stock for 3 months).

And again he really recommended against the 100/80 for the front. I see that the Dunlop chart (see above) shows the rim size for their 100/80 as being 2.5 with a range of 1.85 to 2.75, so it is definitely within the range. But my mechanic pulled rank on me and said that he is a professional racer (he is, and a good one), and he said 90/80 front. He then crossed his arms and just looked at me, waiting!

I asked him if 100/80 for both front and rear was ok, and he said he wants me with the 90/80 in front! So that is what I am getting - same as you, Taichiplanet (you are happy with them, aren't you?).

If after a few months I feel like changing, I will then get the 110/80 rear, and move the 100/80 to the front...

Later...

Very happy with them. As Allan says 400% better than the IRCs. You have gotta trust what your mechanic says, maybe he knows what he is talking about!! I wonder what size tyre will be 'over tyre-ing' the CBR 150, and will start to affect the handling and power of in a negative way? Any formula for this from you tech whizs?!

[dave_boo]

I will quote you as being wrong! C'mon - get it right C'mon!

Seriously, I looked at the rims on my CBR last night, and it says right on them - front 1.85 and rear 2.15. (If you look on the spokes you will find the info...)

So I talked to my mechanic again, and they cannot get the 110/80 right now (thanks ThaiCBR - we checked Golila on motocyc.com and they are out of stock for 3 months).

And again he really recommended against the 100/80 for the front. I see that the Dunlop chart (see above) shows the rim size for their 100/80 as being 2.5 with a range of 1.85 to 2.75, so it is definitely within the range. But my mechanic pulled rank on me and said that he is a professional racer (he is, and a good one), and he said 90/80 front. He then crossed his arms and just looked at me, waiting!

I asked him if 100/80 for both front and rear was ok, and he said he wants me with the 90/80 in front! So that is what I am getting - same as you, Taichiplanet (you are happy with them, aren't you?).

If after a few months I feel like changing, I will then get the 110/80 rear, and move the 100/80 to the front...

Later...

Dude....you could have posted that information before I stuck my foot in my mouth! Can you list who makes the rims? I think I remember them having the , but I could be wrong about that also!

[Vato]

Don't quote me as being correct, but since nobody else has stepped up, I believe that I remember seeing on the rims that the CBR uses a 2,75". I would go with the manufacturer's recommendation about the size of rim to use; they've studied and proven their designs to work ideally with the recommendations.

I will quote you as being wrong! C'mon - get it right C'mon!

Seriously, I looked at the rims on my CBR last night, and it says right on them - front 1.85 and rear 2.15. (If you look on the spokes you will find the info...)

So I talked to my mechanic again, and they cannot get the 110/80 right now (thanks ThaiCBR - we checked Golila on motocyc.com and they are out of stock for 3 months).

And again he really recommended against the 100/80 for the front. I see that the Dunlop chart (see above) shows the rim size for their 100/80 as being 2.5 with a range of 1.85 to 2.75, so it is definitely within the range. But my mechanic pulled rank on me and said that he is a professional racer (he is, and a good one), and he said 90/80 front. He then crossed his arms and just looked at me, waiting!

I asked him if 100/80 for both front and rear was ok, and he said he wants me with the 90/80 in front! So that is what I am getting - same as you, Taichiplanet (you are happy with them, aren't you?).

If after a few months I feel like changing, I will then get the 110/80 rear, and move the 100/80 to the front...

Later...

careful...some companies designate front tires as front usage only.

[mickba]

.................I looked at the rims on my CBR last night, and it says right on them - front 1.85 and rear 2.15. (If you look on the spokes you will find the info...)

Brilliant thanks! I knew someone would crawl off the couch if I wittered on long enough.

I'm a bit surprised they're so narrow, having studied the amount the tyres "overhang" but that may be the way they're measured i.e. inside perhaps?

So now we have:-

Stock Front for 80/90 is 1.85 vs Dunlop say 1.85 range 1.60 - 2.15 = All good.

Stock Rear for 100/80 is 2.15 vs Dunlop say 2.50 range 1.85 - 2.75 = Odd?

My inclination (for aesthetics as much as anything) is to go to the maximum on the Dunlop chart, which is quite a bit wider than stock for the rear . I'm conscious of the risk of kerbing them so I'm off to a shop to work out how they're measured. Any thoughts?

Thanks again - almost there - but do I want gold or red........

PS - maybe dave_boo did see a 2.75 rear somewhere?

[mickba]

careful...some companies designate front tires as front usage only.

Good point. As per Dunlop chart http://www.dunloptyres.com.hk/e/tyres-bike-tt900gp.html only the 90/80 is same same.

[mickba]

So now we have:-

Stock Front is 1.85 vs Dunlop say for 90/80 2.15 range 1.85 - 2.50

Stock Rear is 2.15 vs Dunlop say for 100/80 2.50 range 1.85 - 2.75

Sorry - I said 80/90 instead of 90/80 and messed the numbers up accordingly - should be as now in quotes - I think.

So now I go look for a 2.25+ front and a 2.75 rear.

Right?

[wjmark]

Dude....you could have posted that information before I stuck my foot in my mouth! Can you list who makes the rims? I think I remember them having the , but I could be wrong about that also!

Then it wouldn't have been as much fun!

Actually, I only found out yesterday that the rim has the size listed on it. The mechanic showed me the info on the inside of one of the channeled spokes...

I will look later today for the insignia...

And thanks to you Vato - very good point about the front/rear tires! Of course if I am happy with the combo I am getting I won't change them....

===

update - I just got the phone call - the tires are in! Monday I will get them installed...

Edited January 24, 2009 by wjmark

[mickba]

Went to the shop where I "knew" I could order the Dunlops and they laff me.

Can anyone tell me where in Pattaya please?

[wjmark]

90/80 Michelin Pilot Sporty front

100/80 " " " rear

Taichiplanet said it right - 400% better.

Fantastic - corners that felt a little hard or tight on the IRC's have just become comfortable and faster!

Also changed the sprocket from the stock 44 to a 47. Nice little extra zip - haven't tried top-end yet.

About the front sizing - my mechanic made me look at how round the 90/80 is on the rim - anything bigger wouldn't be such a good curve (he says). I will try to post a photo looking down on the tire later (unless TV.com keeps refusing my uploads).

(dave_boo - haven't checked the logo on the rims yet...).

[Vato]

try and keep the idle below 1500 rpm, when the idle is too high the motor winds out faster and theres a dead spot at approx 7000 rpm, and the bike will vibrate like crazy...

1200 rpm and lower is good for my bike, the lower it is on my bike the smoother it runs...i have to feather the throttle at stoplights when the engine is still cold, my idle is set so low.

[thaicbr]

Vato. what do you think of the pilot sporty 100/80-17 front. also i still owe you the original exhaust. do ya still want it if so pm me and i will drop it down to ya. Allan

[Vato]

you got the wrong guy...

[thaicbr]

Sorry dude. getting old and the memorys going

[Hog Head]

Sold my CBR and still have a week old PWK 28mmm flat slide carb, jets, aircleaner, the required throttle assembly, and aluminium can Endurance pipe. The carb is a genuine PWK and not the cheap PE round slide, or worse yet a copy

less than 1/2 price at 6000 B for the lot

Still for sale in CM

[T_Dog]

Talked to Khun Pipat at Chiangmai Biker shop two days ago and today got my new Michelin Pilots put on. Immediate noticeable increase in stability at medium to high speeds, and low speed handling between cars is the same. What surprised me most is how much smoother rough roads feel now. I ended up getting a 90/80 on the front and a 100/80 on the back due to availability. Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Headed up north on Thursday!

[phobic]

I just browsed internet some and found this pic on the yamaha big bike forum...

http://www.yamaha-motor.co.th/RidersClub/u.../1228201474.jpg

Anyone seen this before?

[thaicbr]

yer its not a real bike. it's photoshop at it's best. been doing the rounds for some time. looks good though. would be nice with a decent single or twin 250 in it. and at a decent price. but rumours abound that Honda will get their shit together by the time of the Bangkok Motorshow........waiting

[dave_boo]

Definitely a photochop....doesn't stop it from looking good though. There's also rumours that Honda will be using the same plastic as the CBR 125i; I think that's much more likely.

Would be nice if Honda released a VTR 250 at a decent price point; would directly compete with the Tiger Boxer. Also would prove to be a good alternative to the Kawasaki Ninja 250-provide a more comfortable ride and nearly as much power.

[CanInBKK]

Picked up the new CBR 150 in Bangkok today!!

Price: 66k + 1k reg + 1.7k ins (2 years)

Having never ridden a clutch motorcycle before I got a 5 minute briefing from the store mechanic and was off riding shortly thereafter. My intial impression is that it's much more fun/interesting than a Wave, but I always have to be mindful of which gear I'm in (unlike a car where you know which gear it is by the position in the H-pattern).

I couldn't resist taking a photo, so here's the bike parked in Chula Univ.

Can't wait to do some more riding!!

[thaicbr]

Canin... look on the cbr150club.com website there was a guy selling gear indicators, an led display from 1-6. might be worth a look. its in thai but you can see the pictures.

see link

http://www.cbr150club.com/board/index.php?topic=4072.0

looks cool, thinking of getting one for my new Ninja.

Allan

Edited January 29, 2009 by thaicbr

[Vato]

Picked up the new CBR 150 in Bangkok today!!

Price: 66k + 1k reg + 1.7k ins (2 years)

Having never ridden a clutch motorcycle before I got a 5 minute briefing from the store mechanic and was off riding shortly thereafter. My intial impression is that it's much more fun/interesting than a Wave, but I always have to be mindful of which gear I'm in (unlike a car where you know which gear it is by the position in the H-pattern).

I couldn't resist taking a photo, so here's the bike parked in Chula Univ.

Can't wait to do some more riding!!

shweeet...dont forget to get a padlock and put it through the sprocket, for security.

use the choke in morning.

[T_Dog]

Just got back from a few days in the mountains and am liking the Michelin Pilots just fine. Much better on dirt than the old IRCs, and overall better on pavement. At high speeds they are harder to muscle around as they are heavier than the IRCs, but that makes the bike feel more stable. At cornering speeds they do well.

Here is a pic of the 90/80 up front. It pretty well fills up the fender with less than half a cm of clearance on the top. I wonder if anyone has put a 100/90 up front that could comment on the clearance, as I bet there is not much.

[Dmitry]

Canin... look on the cbr150club.com website there was a guy selling gear indicators, an led display from 1-6. might be worth a look. its in thai but you can see the pictures.

see link

http://www.cbr150club.com/board/index.php?topic=4072.0

looks cool, thinking of getting one for my new Ninja.

Allan

but what about installation & price? guy location?