2 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

Actually, WD40 isn't a particularly good lubricant for the sintered bearings found in most of these fans.

 

A light machine oil (Singer sewing machine oil) applied with a syringe (possibly with a big-bore needle for accuracy) is far better. 

But it does free up sticky or stuck drive spindles.

5 minutes ago, billd766 said:

I still have the skill and the tools to fix many things. It is my 80 year old body and slowly failing eyesight that is letting me down nowadays.

 

I'm only 65, but various bits are failing or falling off, sadly most can't be replaced using parts off Lazada 😞 

 

Yeah, I don't do ladders and heavy lifting and I need optical assistance (use the phone camera to even read the instructions that come with some kit), but I have family to do the stuff I can't.

1 hour ago, Crossy said:

 

I'm only 65, but various bits are failing or falling off, sadly most can't be replaced using parts off Lazada 😞 

 

Yeah, I don't do ladders and heavy lifting and I need optical assistance (use the phone camera to even read the instructions that come with some kit), but I have family to do the stuff I can't.

I can still do ladders though normally no higher than 3 treads. I did 4 treads this morning but I was definitely unhappy about that. For instructions I normally scan them into my computer and increase the text size.

 

In settings I have already increased from 100% to 125% as my standard and sometimes to 150% and even 175% for some texts.

 

It is an age thing and gets to most people in time.

2 hours ago, Crossy said:

 

Many of us, particularly those to be found in these forums, actually enjoy doing stuff like this (my wife does the gardening and I hate working on cars mind).

 

Each to his own of course, but one wonders why you are even looking here 🙂 

 

 

That's the trouble with this forum, no sense of humor.  

2 minutes ago, Doctor Tom said:

That's the trouble with this forum, no sense of humor.  

 

For humour go here: - 

 

https://aseannow.com/forum/20-jokes-puzzles-and-riddles-make-my-day/

 

 

new fan Capacitor update  :

 

replaced the capacitor with a new one and nothing changed,  it still doesn't work. 

 

I may take it to a repair shop and get them to fix it .....   

 

2 hours ago, steven100 said:

new fan Capacitor update  :

 

replaced the capacitor with a new one and nothing changed,  it still doesn't work. 

 

I may take it to a repair shop and get them to fix it .....   

 

 

It was worth a shot.

 

Next stop, the thermal fuse, on Hatari fans these are simply zip-tied to the windings and are relatively easy (ok awfully fiddly) to replace.

 

28 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

It was worth a shot.

 

Next stop, the thermal fuse, on Hatari fans these are simply zip-tied to the windings and are relatively easy (ok awfully fiddly) to replace.

 

 

ok,  I'll have a look .... I didn't really notice it anywhere even when I took the screws out to separate the windings case/cover.

I'll look further ...

12 hours ago, steven100 said:

I didn't really notice it anywhere even when I took the screws out to separate the windings case/cover.

Most desk/pedestal fans are very similar............ post 8 below shows basic circuit diagram.

 

https://aseannow.com/topic/1160525-hatari-fan-repairs-fed-up/

 

Video on similar.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQtljM5CZUs

1 hour ago, bluejets said:

Most desk/pedestal fans are very similar............ post 8 below shows basic circuit diagram.

 

https://aseannow.com/topic/1160525-hatari-fan-repairs-fed-up/

 

Video on similar.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQtljM5CZUs

 

I can't see any thermal fuse in the motor wiring ...

 

Just buy a new fan, sorted. They last 5 years + for 800 baht.

2 minutes ago, Henryford said:

Just buy a new fan, sorted. They last 5 years + for 800 baht.

mine only lasted 1 yr ....           and actually it's the second one I've bought is the last 2 yrs .... they both stopped. 

The thermal fuse could be located in one of those insulated wire covers,   but rather than cut the winding strings I'll make sure it's not located near the speed switch on the pedestal shaft first.  

16 hours ago, Crossy said:

 

It was worth a shot.

 

Next stop, the thermal fuse, on Hatari fans these are simply zip-tied to the windings and are relatively easy (ok awfully fiddly) to replace.

 

 

Update .....     

 

after loosening the screws holding the winding together ... then plug it in and switch on 1 ... I get a slight buzzing noise, 2 .. strong buzz ... and 3 it's buzzing ...

so It's not the thermal fuse either I don't believe ....      I think it's the motor shaft alignment or the winding alignment as it's trying but just won't force to spin.   

Tried again ....  loosened all the fixing bolts to the winding casing ....   loosened the back spindle screws ...  baby oil down the front bearing ....     

got plenty of buzzing on 3 .....    but no power to the shaft or very very minor  ..... 

 

oh well '     I did try ... but sadly it's either the rubbish bin or the pop repair shop ...   

34 minutes ago, steven100 said:

oh well '     I did try ... but sadly it's either the rubbish bin or the pop repair shop ...   

I'd say the former....sounds like one of the windings are open circuit if all the previous has been checked and eliminated.

They look fine but a multimeter test would confirm continuity.

Split the windings at the common and test with a megger to make sure no shorts between the two there to be absolutely certain.

Then test with growler for interwinding short within each field winding.

 

As many said before, bin it.

1 hour ago, bluejets said:

Then test with growler for interwinding short within each field winding.

 

What's a "growler", we have two "Yappers" but when they "growl" it's almost comical 🙂 

 

EDIT Wiki answered my question https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Growler_(electrical_device)

 

Never come across one, but I've never been into motors either.

18 hours ago, bluejets said:

I'd say the former....sounds like one of the windings are open circuit if all the previous has been checked and eliminated.

They look fine but a multimeter test would confirm continuity.

Split the windings at the common and test with a megger to make sure no shorts between the two there to be absolutely certain.

Then test with growler for interwinding short within each field winding.

 

As many said before, bin it.

I did notice I was getting a shock every time I unplugged the power lead ...  anyway ...   I could remove the motor and go and buy a new motor at Amorn ....