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I have not used my oven for many months because after some time it sometimes switch the Ac breaker in my breaker box so I was planed to bring it to service. When we discuss the issue we was told:

 

-If oven already running and the switch the breaker its because of lower power supply.

If the breakers switch already when start up the oven then its issue with the oven.

 

Any others have some experience and view on this?  I have 2 x 5000w tot 10kw inverters and I usually on 1xxx watt on each inverter in usage or less.  I will do some testing with different power sources and see how that is going.

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

There not all bright like a light here, add few dont know what a hotplate or oven is then the dicks run under rated cabling and circuit breakers, in my condo the very dim wits ran the hotplate and oven on the same line into the one circuit breaker so when running hotplate and oven same time it trips.

 

Start with getting the oven checked if its never done that before, after that good luck if nothing wrong with it.

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I wired my kitchen over to a breaker with a few more Amp capacity and tested today. First it looked to be a successfully test of the oven, but then 20-30 min after used the oven main breaker and new kitchen breaker switched. I tried to flop it back as i had do before but now it just switched again. Next i disabled the power socket for the oven and switched successfully power back on. So issue is my oven..

 

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The questions are:

What does your oven use (power consumption)? Check the identification plate. kW, V, A?

The calculation is simple: Normally we have here in Thailand 220V. If the breaker has 16A: 16 x 220 = 3520W (3.5kW)

I don't think that your oven needs that much.

So normally a 16A breaker (2.5sq/mm wires!) should be enough.

 

What exactly trips? Is it only a power breaker (RCD) or is it a power breaker with earth leakage circuit breaker integrated? (RCBO).

Drop me a line here if your problem still exists...

 

Ah, just saw you found out yourself...

 

 

 

Edited by Schoggibueb
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The breaker and main breaker switched. My oven use 2600w or so as maximum.  Today I tested with 20A breaker and most strange is that it not switch when oven was in use but 20 min later,  so it must be some electrical issue with the oven, so i will send the oven on service.

 

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4 minutes ago, Pink7 said:

The breaker and main breaker switched. My oven use 2600w or so as maximum.  Today I tested with 20A breaker and most strange is that it not switch when oven was in use but 20 min later,  so it must be some electrical issue with the oven, so i will send the oven on service.

 

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You might have a issue with your installation (wires), so don't be surprised after your "service" on the oven when the same thing happens.

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3 minutes ago, Schoggibueb said:

You might have a issue with your installation (wires), so don't be surprised after your "service" on the oven when the same thing happens.

If you have the possibility you can do following: Plug the oven to another socket (has to be a different circut breaker!!!). If you get the same fault, it should be the oven. If no fault -> wiring or circuit breaker problem

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11 minutes ago, Schoggibueb said:

If you have the possibility you can do following: Plug the oven to another socket (has to be a different circut breaker!!!). If you get the same fault, it should be the oven. If no fault -> wiring or circuit breaker problem

Yes I will test some more. Currently Im checking my  3 pin socket. I mounted oven wires: Brown to Live. Black to neutral and light blue to ground (its a built in oven who come with just the wire.)

 

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Emmm, a bit strange colours on your oven. At least you schould check which wire ground (PE / Protection earth) is. Normally yellow-green nowdays.

If you know how to handle a measuring device and if you have one, I can try to help you to to find out which colour PE is on your oven.

 

Or if you have a manual for the oven - check it!

 

Abbreviation RTFM -> Read The <deleted> Manual

 

Good luck until then 🙂

 

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5 hours ago, Pink7 said:

Currently Im checking my  3 pin socket. I mounted oven wires: Brown to Live. Black to neutral and light blue to ground (its a built in oven who come with just the wire.)

Are you sure that is the correct connection? Brown for live is standard but blue is usually reserved for neutral. The color usage you suggest is not part of any known standard..

https://www.electricaltechnology.org/2020/07/electrical-wiring-color-codes-nec-iec.html

 

Do you have a schematic diagram for the oven? If not google may have one for you.

Edited by lom
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52 minutes ago, lom said:

Are you sure that is the correct connection? Brown for live is standard but blue is usually reserved for neutral. The color usage you suggest is not part of any known standard..

https://www.electricaltechnology.org/2020/07/electrical-wiring-color-codes-nec-iec.html

 

Do you have a schematic diagram for the oven? If not google may have one for you.

Thanks for the info. I do not have anything on this. When oven was new when build home the electrician mounted it. Then its unmounted some times to take out oven for service and cleaning. Photo of the power wire attached. Oven is  Teko and probably made in Spain or Germany.

 

 

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wires.jpg

Edited by Pink7
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You can measure resistance between the wires and the oven chassis with a multimeter and confirm which one is safety ground. The color combination in your cable is unusual and if you check the site I linked to then you can see that also.

Please also observe where in the world brown colored wire is used..

If the oven is made in Europe and the cable is original then brown is live and blue is neutral, but black as safety ground is a no-no.  Black is a phase color in Europe.. 

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1 hour ago, lom said:

You can measure resistance between the wires and the oven chassis with a multimeter and confirm which one is safety ground. The color combination in your cable is unusual and if you check the site I linked to then you can see that also.

Please also observe where in the world brown colored wire is used..

If the oven is made in Europe and the cable is original then brown is live and blue is neutral, but black as safety ground is a no-no.  Black is a phase color in Europe.. 

Ok I tested that as good i could. As i can see its the black who give a solid result on resistance. On the 2 others i got some low running numbers.

 

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other.jpeg

black.jpeg

Edited by Pink7
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Ok so there was an short extension added to the org wire that's why the color confusion. After pulled the oven out and made a new test ( with grid power) and with just the org wire the main breaker home switched right away. This time the kitchen breaker not switch only the main. So the oven will be sent on service today. Thanks to everyone who contributed with help and ideas.

 

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