Specific EV Questions

[Pib]

1 hour ago, Yodarapper said:

Hi All,

 

Like already discussed, will be waiting to install a wall charger for a couple of months. We are going to try to brave it without one for the first few months and then if we really need it will look at installing one.

 

Someone on here recommended this from Lazada:
Charger

 

Just want confirmation that is going to be safe to use and will be slightly quicker that the one provided by BYD?

Also, what amps can I set it to safely? I have 2 normal sockets in my driveway which I will plug it into so please let me know....Should I start small at 8....or can I safely use 16A?
 

Thanks

Yes...it would work.

 

As to what you can "safely" start with current-wise requires you to know if there are any other electrical equipment on the same circuit and how much that equipment is pulling amp-wise.  Like maybe lights, outlets in the house that maybe your TV or similar equipment is hooked to....maybe a  microwave....may be an A/C....maybe who knows what.     Then add on what the charger will draw when in use.  Determine if you will then exceed the safe current draw for that circuit.

 

What if that circuit is not a standalone circuit and it just a branch of a circuit that is also powering other equipment/sockets in your home.   What if that circuit (and lets say it's a 16A circuit)  is almost always pulling 5A and maybe even a higher current (say 10A total) when certain in-frequently used equipment is turned on.  Well, if you plug in your EV charger set to 16A you are now up to 21A (or maybe 26A) being pulled exceeding the 16A circuit safe limit.   

 

Well, you might think that the 16A circuit breaker will trip "immediately" whenever exceeding 16A but that is not the way a circuit breaker work.   That 16A circuit breaker will only trip once the current exceeds 16A for a certain length of time depending on how high the current actually is.  Circuit breakers have a "trip curve" which is typically a B or C curve in homes which determine when the breaker will trip after the 16A is exceeded...and as mentioned it depends on "how long" and "how high the current is"....both come into play as to when the breaker will trip.

 

Seems here in Thailand circuit breakers with a C-curve are used.  Just look at the front of the circuit breaker....if it says B16, B20, etc., it's B-curve circuit breaker, if it says C16, C20, etc., it's a C-curve circuit breaker.  A B-curve breaker has a faster trip curve than a C-curve breaker, but even that B-curve breaker does not trip immediately unless really high current is drawn.   

 

A C-16A circuit breaker (which you probably have) would take well over 1000 (one thousand) seconds to trip with 21A going thru it.  If would not trip "immediately" (i.e., less than 1 second overload) until at least 80A and a max of  160A.   See below weblink and snapshot for more info on circuit breakers, tripping curves, etc.   

 

The only way to "really" know how many amps a circuit is carrying is to measure it with an ammeter.  Maybe you have such an ammeter already on your main circuit box.  Maybe you have clamp-on ammeter?    

 

 

https://www.electricaltechnology.org/2021/07/tripping-curves-circuit-breaker.html

 

[Yodarapper]

18 hours ago, Pib said:

Yes...it would work.

 

As to what you can "safely" start with current-wise requires you to know if there are any other electrical equipment on the same circuit and how much that equipment is pulling amp-wise.  Like maybe lights, outlets in the house that maybe your TV or similar equipment is hooked to....maybe a  microwave....may be an A/C....maybe who knows what.     Then add on what the charger will draw when in use.  Determine if you will then exceed the safe current draw for that circuit.

 

What if that circuit is not a standalone circuit and it just a branch of a circuit that is also powering other equipment/sockets in your home.   What if that circuit (and lets say it's a 16A circuit)  is almost always pulling 5A and maybe even a higher current (say 10A total) when certain in-frequently used equipment is turned on.  Well, if you plug in your EV charger set to 16A you are now up to 21A (or maybe 26A) being pulled exceeding the 16A circuit safe limit.   

 

Well, you might think that the 16A circuit breaker will trip "immediately" whenever exceeding 16A but that is not the way a circuit breaker work.   That 16A circuit breaker will only trip once the current exceeds 16A for a certain length of time depending on how high the current actually is.  Circuit breakers have a "trip curve" which is typically a B or C curve in homes which determine when the breaker will trip after the 16A is exceeded...and as mentioned it depends on "how long" and "how high the current is"....both come into play as to when the breaker will trip.

 

Seems here in Thailand circuit breakers with a C-curve are used.  Just look at the front of the circuit breaker....if it says B16, B20, etc., it's B-curve circuit breaker, if it says C16, C20, etc., it's a C-curve circuit breaker.  A B-curve breaker has a faster trip curve than a C-curve breaker, but even that B-curve breaker does not trip immediately unless really high current is drawn.   

 

A C-16A circuit breaker (which you probably have) would take well over 1000 (one thousand) seconds to trip with 21A going thru it.  If would not trip "immediately" (i.e., less than 1 second overload) until at least 80A and a max of  160A.   See below weblink and snapshot for more info on circuit breakers, tripping curves, etc.   

 

The only way to "really" know how many amps a circuit is carrying is to measure it with an ammeter.  Maybe you have such an ammeter already on your main circuit box.  Maybe you have clamp-on ammeter?    

 

 

https://www.electricaltechnology.org/2021/07/tripping-curves-circuit-breaker.html

 

wow! Thanks for such a detailed response.

 

honestly I understand most of it but still have questions:

 

how should I proceed? Should I set the charger to the lowest amp and charge or to the highest and see.

 

basically my question is, if I am going to wait a couple of months to install a wall box - need to continue conversations with landlord, he seems ok - and I buy this charger off lazada, how should I use it that makes it better than the slow charger supplied by byd?

 

thanks!

[Andrew Dwyer]

2 minutes ago, Yodarapper said:

wow! Thanks for such a detailed response.

 

honestly I understand most of it but still have questions:

 

how should I proceed? Should I set the charger to the lowest amp and charge or to the highest and see.

 

basically my question is, if I am going to wait a couple of months to install a wall box - need to continue conversations with landlord, he seems ok - and I buy this charger off lazada, how should I use it that makes it better than the slow charger supplied by byd?

 

thanks!

I would go straight in at 16 amp, if it gets very hot or a breaker trips then knock it down to 13 amp.

If it does the same at 13 amp then you should look at upgrading some wiring or a breaker otherwise you have wasted money and could use the free granny/emergency charger ( 10 amp ) supplied with the car.

[JBChiangRai]

2 minutes ago, Andrew Dwyer said:

I would go straight in at 16 amp, if it gets very hot or a breaker trips then knock it down to 13 amp.

If it does the same at 13 amp then you should look at upgrading some wiring or a breaker otherwise you have wasted money and could use the free granny/emergency charger ( 10 amp ) supplied with the car.

 

That's exactly what I would do too.  Expect the plug in the wall to get warm, that's normal.

[Yodarapper]

Thanks! So what would be normal vs not normal?

 

obviously I want try it out during the day when I can check in to

male sure all is good before I leave overnight to charge.

 

plug in wall will get warm but not too hot to the touch?

the charger type 2 that goes into the Atto3 should not get warm at all?

 

thanks!

[JBChiangRai]

2 minutes ago, Yodarapper said:

Thanks! So what would be normal vs not normal?

 

obviously I want try it out during the day when I can check in to

male sure all is good before I leave overnight to charge.

 

plug in wall will get warm but not too hot to the touch?

the charger type 2 that goes into the Atto3 should not get warm at all?

 

thanks!

 

My plugs into the car (CCS2) do get warm, but overly hot.

 

Warm is normal, if it's uncomfortably hot, knock your charging down to 13 amp, but I doubt you'll need to.

[Pib]

15 minutes ago, Yodarapper said:

 

how should I proceed? Should I set the charger to the lowest amp and charge or to the highest and see.

 

As I posted before.  To "safely" do it you should evaluate/measure how much current is used on the branch you plug the charger into.   That is, see how much current that circuit might normally have on it....then add on what the charger will add....see if the result exceed that branch current rating.    Or pay a local electrical tech to come check the circuit with his clamp-on ammeter...it would just take him a few minutes to remove the panel, you turn on a bunch of stuff around the house, and him to measure the current draw.  Now you know....no need to guess by experimenting by just plugging in more stuff like a charger to see if and how long it takes for the circuit breaker to trip.   Spend a few hundred baht to check things out.

 

You can buy clamp-on ammeters for around Bt200 off Lazada/Shopee....then remove the front panel of your main circuit box....then clamp the meter around the wire that feeds out of the controlling circuit breaker for your driveway socket....see what level of current the meter now shows....even turn on most everything in your house for a few seconds/minutes to include things you would only turn on at night....to see if the ammeter then displays a higher current level.   OK, after doing this you know how many amps the circuit the driveway socket is on normally carries and/or carries when certain equipment is turned on. 

 

Say, the ammeter always shows zero amps....then that means the driveway socket is on a dedicated branch....it does not feed any other branches in the house.  If always showing zero amps and assuming it's at least a 16A circuit/breaker then you can safely start at a 16A charger setting.   Now my carport socket is "not" on a dedicated circuit....it only a circuit that powers some stuff inside a downstairs portion of my home...that circuit is always drawing a few amps.   But since my portable charger only draws 10A when I rarely use it to check it still works, that circuit breaker circuit never draws more than 16A as I've checked with the ammeter that is built into my main circuit breaker panel and also my clamp-on ammeter.  I have confirmed I can safely use that socket with my portable 10A charger when I check it out maybe twice a year.

 

 But say the ammeter showed some level of current like say 2A, 5A, 6A, etc., with the charger "not" plugged in & charging, then that "some level of current" needs to be your starting point to determine what charger amp level you can safely use.  If the circuit was drawing 3A sometimes without the charger being used then when charging at 16A like you are thinking about doing it going to go to 19A being used on say a 16A circuit for an extended time....like hours and hours as you charge your EV.  When will the circuit breaker finally trip raising concern for you?     Well, it depends on breakers trip curve, how much current is being drawn and for how long like we have discussed.  And note I've been using a 16A circuit breaker circuit as an example....your driveway socket may be on a 20A circuit which would mean if that circuit was normally drawing 4A without the charger and then you plug in the charger at 16A then you are still safe at a total of 19A on that 20A circuit breaker.  But don't exceed the 16A on driveway socket because the socket itself is probably rated at 16A amps.

 

Or you can do it an unsafe way of just plugging it in an see what happens over the coming months like the circuit breaker trips "many" minutes or hours after you plugged in the charger---that means you a drawing significantly more current than is safe for that branch.....and if the circuit breaker trips within a just a few minutes then you are really drawing a current way, way above the circuit breaker's rating. 

 

Circuit breakers have two mechanisms which determine how fast the trip.  One is the bimetallic strip that "slowly" responds to an overcurrent condition.....and the second an electromagnet coil that "very quickly" responds to large overcurrent/shorts.    Just review that link I gave earlier on how a circuit breaker works....it's trip curve....it's not like the how many people think a circuit breaker "immediately" trips when exceeds the breaker's rating by just a little bit like a 16A breaker tripping at 17A--nope, don't work that way.

 

Yeap, you can either do it safely by first measuring how much current the circuit is using....Or, do it by just plugging in the charger and see what happens although you will not be able to see what damage it may do to wiring in the wall over a long or short period.   Good luck.

 

[Yodarapper]

Hey - I know some of you were very helpful @Pib and co with the window tint which is included.

 

but I need to clarify - what percentage or number should I choose for the windscreen? Windows - back windscreen and the sun roof? It’s the atto3.

 

just in a side note my kids are very much looking forward to the sunroof and love looking through it how will the tint impact that?

 

I know it will be personal choice but I want to go with the normal choices.

 

thanks

[Yodarapper]

Hello,

 

My finance has been approved and I pick up my BYD Atto3 extended MY2024 Thai version next week friday. Now I have to choose the XUV Ceramic tint percantages - 40/60/80 is what Ive been told but most importantly the dealer wants me to spend more money!

 

Now he is offering the following:

A frunk for 8,490

Premium carpets 4 pieces for 3,800

A battery guard for 16,265.50

And kevlar, seems like protections for different parts of the car....

The only thing that sort of pops out is the battery guard.....Is that worth it? Would you add anything from that, any of it worth spending more money?

[Pib]

25 minutes ago, Yodarapper said:

Hello,

 

My finance has been approved and I pick up my BYD Atto3 extended MY2024 Thai version next week friday. Now I have to choose the XUV Ceramic tint percantages - 40/60/80 is what Ive been told but most importantly the dealer wants me to spend more money!

 

Now he is offering the following:

A frunk for 8,490

Premium carpets 4 pieces for 3,800

A battery guard for 16,265.50

And kevlar, seems like protections for different parts of the car....

The only thing that sort of pops out is the battery guard.....Is that worth it? Would you add anything from that, any of it worth spending more money?

 

 

I wouldn't install a frunk in an Atto as it offers only a tiny bit of storage space and blocks your ability to inspect the engine area (that is, the electric drive motor, the electronics module setting on top of the drive motor, the A/C compressor, the 12V battery, etc..etc...etc...just everything in the front engine bay/compartment area.  Plus if some kittens or other critters crawl up into the engine bay area you will not be able to access/see that area until you spend 30 minutes trying to get the frunk de-installed.  And the frunk is not something you can just remove in a minute or two as it secured in with a bunch of metal and plastic retainers.   Plus, you can buy them cheaper from 3rd party shops....even off Lazada/Shopee.

 

Not sure what is meant by a "battery guard" unless the dealer is talking about additional metal/plastic covers on the bottom of the Atto to offer a little bit more protection to the traction battery for stuff you might run over on the road.   If so, the Atto comes with plastic undercovers for the engine bay area.....and the traction battery bottom half exposed towards the road surface is metal/aluminum with a plastic cover on the bottom of that metal/aluminum. 

 

Now the top half of an Atto/Dolphin battery is plastic/fiber which some people got damage from "rats" eating thru that material.   So, BYD came out with a "free" "Rat Guard modification" which installs metal covers on the front edges of the traction battery where critters had fairly easy access to and could eat on....and then the rest of the top half of the battery is then sprayed with an anti-critters spray.   You can see this Rat Guard installation at this Youtube weblink.   It takes them about an hour to install.  I would recommend you ensure your dealership installs "Rat Guard" before you pickup the car...or at least the dealers makes an appointment for you to come back real soon for the free Rat Guard installation.   I sure hope it's still free as before.  I got the free installation about six months ago when I first heard of it.  Other than a few BYD dealerships advertising it on Youtube/Facebook I never saw where BYD advertised on a wide scale the Rat Guard modification.   Maybe BYD is "now" doing that at the factory....I don't know.  Just check to ensure the Rat Guard modification has already been accomplished OR they will schedule the install for you---hopefully still free.

 

There are LOTS and LOTS of accessories you can buy for the Atto right off Lazada/Shopee like those accessories in your picture above....and they will be a lot cheaper than from the dealership.  Installation of such accessories is "very easy."  

 

 

 

 

[richard_smith237]

On 1/20/2025 at 6:15 PM, Yodarapper said:

Hey - I know some of you were very helpful @Pib and co with the window tint which is included.

 

but I need to clarify - what percentage or number should I choose for the windscreen? Windows - back windscreen and the sun roof? It’s the atto3.

 

just in a side note my kids are very much looking forward to the sunroof and love looking through it how will the tint impact that?

 

I know it will be personal choice but I want to go with the normal choices.

 

thanks

 

Regarding Tint: 

- Moonroof - highest tint you can go:  the roof lets in so much heat. We have an 80% tint (the highest we could get) and we can see through it clearly in the brightness of day, but not at night) - 99% of the time we now have the moonroof cover extended over the glass.

(You wont use the moonroof anywhere near you think you might).

 

- Side Windows: Not more than 40% tint (maybe even 40% on the rear sides and back) and 30% on the front sides.

 

- Windscreen: 20 or 30%: You need to be sure you can see at night.

 

Note - the percentages are not everything, different manufacturers have different qualities of visibility with the same tint, so try if you can with trial and error.

 

We have 30% tint on our Windscreen and its a slightly too dark for my liking to the point I'm thinking of getting it removed and replacing it with lighter tint (though its great in the day time).

 

 

 

[JBChiangRai]

1 minute ago, richard_smith237 said:

 

Regarding Tint: 

- Moonroof - highest tint you can go:  the roof lets in so much heat. We have an 80% tint (the highest we could get) and we can see through it clearly in the brightness of day, but not at night) - 99% of the time we now have the moonroof cover extended over the glass.

(You wont use the moonroof anywhere near you think you might).

 

- Side Windows: Not more than 40% tint (maybe even 40% on the rear sides and back) and 30% on the front sides.

 

- Windscreen: 20 or 30%: You need to be sure you can see at night.

 

Note - the percentages are not everything, different manufacturers have different qualities of visibility with the same tint, so try if you can with trial and error.

 

We have 30% tint on our Windscreen and its a slightly too dark for my liking to the point I'm thinking of getting it removed and replacing it with lighter tint (though its great in the day time).

 

 

 

 

Tint can be confusing, I went for 40% cut (60% transmissible) front, rear and sides, some dealers refer to the percentage as cut and some refer to it as transmissible.

 

My advice FWIW, is do not tint your roof, you will make the glass much hotter.  Mine is untinted and it's never a problem.

[richard_smith237]

55 minutes ago, Yodarapper said:

Hello,

 

My finance has been approved and I pick up my BYD Atto3 extended MY2024 Thai version next week friday. Now I have to choose the XUV Ceramic tint percantages - 40/60/80 is what Ive been told but most importantly the dealer wants me to spend more money!

 

Now he is offering the following:

A frunk for 8,490

Premium carpets 4 pieces for 3,800

A battery guard for 16,265.50

And kevlar, seems like protections for different parts of the car....

The only thing that sort of pops out is the battery guard.....Is that worth it? Would you add anything from that, any of it worth spending more money?

 

If any of the above were 'needed' they they'd be included. 

 

I'm not sure that the battery guard is...  If it a cover for the 12v battery, thats not something ever needed in ICE's, its not needed here. 

 

 

As far as a Frunk is needed, again, thats not anything ever needed in an ICE (primarily because there is no space).. but, we have a 67 litre Frunk in our car - we've not once used it, I forgot it was there.

 

What is meant by 'premium' carpets - cos those 'bubble things' are not premium, but they are handy in wet season or if around muddy roads etc - usually any type of carpet is included.

 

The faux kevlar add-ons are gauche chavy kitch urg...  horrible additions, forget them unless you are planning on rocking up to the local Maccie D's with a serchio tachini tracksuit, a fuzzy top lip and the latest alpaca hair-cut !!!... 

 

 

 

 

[richard_smith237]

3 minutes ago, JBChiangRai said:

Tint can be confusing, I went for 40% cut (60% transmissible) front, rear and sides, some dealers refer to the percentage as cut and some refer to it as transmissible.

 

Yep - thats why IMO, its always best to go stright to source and get a serious of examples and sit in the car...  ideally at night or in the workshop where they can turn off the lights.

 

 

3 minutes ago, JBChiangRai said:

My advice FWIW, is do not tint your roof, you will make the glass much hotter.  Mine is untinted and it's never a problem.

 

I have the opposite opinion - go for the strongest tint on the moonroof and cut out as much as the UV light as possible as that cuts out as much heat radiation as possible - its simple science.

[JBChiangRai]

The Thai car enthusiast belies that if an accessory is made, then it must be good.

 

The idea that less can be more is an anathema to a Thai car enthusiast.

[JBChiangRai]

9 minutes ago, richard_smith237 said:

 

I have the opposite opinion - go for the strongest tint on the moonroof and cut out as much as the UV light as possible as that cuts out as much heat radiation as possible - its simple science.

 

The science is that less heat is transmitted through the glass because of the tint underneath, however, more of the IR radiation is absorbed by the tint and it makes the glass hotter.

 

With a strong tint on the roof, driving along, your head should feel less heat as the roof absorbs more IR radiation (heat) but the breeze over the top of the roof will keep the glass cool.  As soon as the car stops, the glass will get hotter and radiate more heat into the car.

 

What IR radiation reaches the bottom of the glass roof is absorbed by the tint, some is reflected back through the glass where again more is absorbed by the glass.

 

The glass roof is treated externally with a reflective treatment that removes a lot of the heat.

 

Driving along, I can't feel the heat radiating onto my bald patch, but I can when it's parked in the sun.  For me, there is very little heat coming through the glass roof and it's only a problem when I park in the sun and a tint will make that worse.

[vinny41]

11 minutes ago, JBChiangRai said:

The Thai car enthusiast belies that if an accessory is made, then it must be good.

 

The idea that less can be more is an anathema to a Thai car enthusiast.

Here is a sad tale of someone installing a kick sensor on a  CHANGAN Deepal S07

Kick sensor installation wasn't  done by offical dealership

Kick sensor allows you to open the rear door 

after 6 months of use car would start but wouldn't engage gear wiring found to be cut

offical dealership stated that wiring and control box needs to be replaced

B130,000 for rewiring whole car

B300,000 for replacing control box

Not covered by warranty as non approved modification 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/deepals07thailand/posts/2069617120156934/

[richard_smith237]

26 minutes ago, JBChiangRai said:

 

The science is that less heat is transmitted through the glass because of the tint underneath, however, more of the IR radiation is absorbed by the tint and it makes the glass hotter.

 

With a strong tint on the roof, driving along, your head should feel less heat as the roof absorbs more IR radiation (heat) but the breeze over the top of the roof will keep the glass cool.  As soon as the car stops, the glass will get hotter and radiate more heat into the car.

 

What IR radiation reaches the bottom of the glass roof is absorbed by the tint, some is reflected back through the glass where again more is absorbed by the glass.

 

The glass roof is treated externally with a reflective treatment that removes a lot of the heat.

 

Driving along, I can't feel the heat radiating onto my bald patch, but I can when it's parked in the sun.  For me, there is very little heat coming through the glass roof and it's only a problem when I park in the sun and a tint will make that worse.

 

Yep, I get that point...

 

Never the less, the internal temperature of a car is hotter with a weaker tint.

 

But, I do agree with you that a stronger tint will reflect more of the UV radiation back through the glass allowing it to radiate greater heat....   thus it may feel warmer though proximity, but nothing underneath the roof will be warmer as it blocks the passage of more UV radiation into the vehicle itself.

 

When parked in the Sun, a internal temperature of a car will get a lot hotter from the a moon-roof that has less tint compared on one with a far higher tint.

 

Thus - there is the difference of the 'glass itself warming (heating up)' and radiating heat into the car, and the glass (with a tint) preventing UV rays from entering the car and heating up internal upholstery and occupants directly. 

 

I for one would always go with the strongest tint on the roof for this purpose, and also ensure there is also a 'cloth barrier' that most cars with a moon roof also have.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[vinny41]

2 hours ago, Yodarapper said:

Hello,

 

My finance has been approved and I pick up my BYD Atto3 extended MY2024 Thai version next week friday. Now I have to choose the XUV Ceramic tint percantages - 40/60/80 is what Ive been told but most importantly the dealer wants me to spend more money!

 

Now he is offering the following:

A frunk for 8,490

Premium carpets 4 pieces for 3,800

A battery guard for 16,265.50

And kevlar, seems like protections for different parts of the car....

The only thing that sort of pops out is the battery guard.....Is that worth it? Would you add anything from that, any of it worth spending more money?

The battery guard is more than likely something similar to this 

Underguard shock absorber pad /protection plate BYD Atto 3

https://autobahnthailand.com/th/product/underguard/

B12,000 here so B15K sound right from dealership

https://www.facebook.com/61553281375065/videos/1768241687247272

Here is the Byd part numbers

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=7635838793162895&set=p.7635838793162895&type=3

 

[Pib]

Actually when it comes to how much Ultraviolet (UV) and InfraRed (IR) light that tint films reflect they all do a really good whether 20% to 80% tint level. And it's very easy to almost totally block UV light even with the cheapest tint film. 

 

However, when it comes to "visible" light transmitted thru or reflected from tint film that can vary greatly.   And the IR light (you can't see) transmitted thru can also vary somewhat also.  Look closely at the specs for any film.

 

If a person is primarily concerned about blocking as much UV and IR light as possible, well, the cheap or expensive files will handle those light spectrums of light easily, especially the UV light.  Just like how merely "waxing" your car can block the great majority of UV light reaching the paint.   

 

But when coming to how much "visible", repeat, visible light a film allows thru a person really needs to look at the different film specs closely and actually look thru "sample" strips a tint film dealer can show you.   

 

Take a look at a few examples for Solar Gard automotive film specs at bottom which is representative of a lot of tint films.

 

And the VLR specs below deals with how much visible light is reflected back like off a mirror allowing you to see a reflection.   The lower percentage the better because when you are inside the car looking out the window in the perfect world you would not want to see any reflection of yourself as that impacts/distorts your vision of what you are looking at on the outside to the car....and if on the outside of the car a person would not want to see the sun being reflected off the film causing a bright spotlight type effect for other drivers looking at your car.

 

 

https://www.solargard.co.th/products/automotive-films/LX-Series

 

A metalize tint film

 

 

 

https://www.solargard.co.th/products/automotive-films/Selective-Ceramic

 

A ceramic tint film

 

 

 

 

[JBChiangRai]

This what AI has to say about choosing the right tint for the glass roof 

 

Choose the right tint:

Opt for a lighter tint film on your sunroof compared to other windows, as the tempered glass in sunroofs can be more susceptible to stress from excessive heat absorption, which could lead to cracking.

 

I can’t help wondering if this would affect the warranty should it crack?

[Pib]

10 minutes ago, JBChiangRai said:

 

I can’t help wondering if this would affect the warranty should it crack?

Highly doubtful since BYD dealerships sell (or include it free) and install film at whatever tinting percentage you want.   They are not going to sell/install something that voids the BYD warranty.