Pick Up Performance Parts/suspensions

[katabeachbum]

hey mate the tuning is done customized, so we can tune it to desired sweet spots,

generally though most that torque will be very high in the midrange rpms, (2000-3200rpm)

maximum horsepower depending on the tune, will generally occure between 3500-4000rpm.

either way my advice is do the rims first, otherwise you cant drive back your fortuner after doing the brake, as your std rims cant fit big size brakes.

For the brakes, we do the rear 330-350mm disk brake converison, which include a slotted sold rotor, twin single piston calipers, cermaic brake pads and all nessary part for fitting. -this kit is the offical kit that allows you to use the hand brake with no problems, and you can expect 30-35% better braking with the rear converison kit.

for the front, depending on your budget we can either go from size 320-380mm vented, slotted and crossdrilled, or vented slotted, or vented cross drilled. my recommendation is go for the vented and slotted.

after that the brake caliper, a high performance brembo 4pot? or a custom aliminium forged caste 4-6pot calipers with bigbore, big pistons. they proivde hugeeeeeeeeeeee stoping power, but need to be run with 380mm rotors, which in all needs 20" rims.

anyways you can also pm me.

Thanks Phil

Im supposed to get the truck on sunday, and if you re sure these brakes fit in 20", i dont want 22". So I ll start there.

[katabeachbum]

Phil, does the extra stopping power cause problems with the abs activating too much? You must need much better and stickier tyres I imagine, otherwise the abs would activate under hard braking, as the tyres are losing traction. Have you had a problem with this in your own ride? Even in my own civis the abs activates occasionally in dry weather, and thats with the standard brakes.

tyres age quickly in the sun, causes reduced traction and ABS activates even on dry surface.

[philipm]

katabeachbum,

20" rims i can assure you that it can fit any brake kit out in the market,

20" are huge mind you, 380mm rotors arnt a problem at all, with huge 6 pot aliminum forged calipers from the porche.

so yes start with the 20" rims.

[Japhrodisiac]

philipm,

I have a mild set of mods in mind. I use my 2007 4x4 Triton 3.2 Limited both on and off road, the stock ride height is fine, I have changed tires to something a little better for offroad, but what I am looking for is a good compromise between on and off road useability. I think that the stock suspension is designed to carry a load, so the front is relatively soft, the rear too stiff and the dampening doesn't match either. It pitches and reacts oddly to bumps as you know. I want to keep stock rims, or change eventually but all mods will be based on stock rims and ride height. What do you suggest suspension wise?

Also, the engine could use a slight boost, but not at the great expense of mileage. Simple mods are fine and I don't like loud diesels. Cheers -

[philipm]

Japhrodisiac,

yea i sure do know what you are talking about in regards to the std triton std suspension set up.

the great news is i as well am still using std rims 16"

now if you are ok with your std rideheight, but want a stiffer front, a slightly softer back,

good onroad stability with good offroad capability.

ok what i recommend, is first of you need to change your shocks and then we can either take of a leaf spring,

which will reduce the load capity but will offer you a softer rear end. or we can leave the leaf spring,

and just adjust the shocks.

the shocks i recommend is Project X, we have white-family, blue-street/sport and red-racing series.

for your application Blue would do perfect.

it is a full monotube 360* mounting capability,

big bore, super high strength road, full ride height adjustable (lower 2" to raise 3.5") and custom tuneable.

we take your words into concideration and your application, and we can set it from very soft to very stiff and everywhere inbetween.

for the rear shocks, you will love the Project X, as the rear shock not only comes with the,

monotube, 360* mounting ability, big bore, high strength road, ride height adjustable, custom setup but MORE over,

it comes with a light set of springs, the springs on the rear shock help control and even out the damping and rebound rate.

Here is a picture of the shock set.

now depending on the stiffness you go for, i can easily assure you can handle serious speeds, handle corners a hel_l of alot better,

and IN WET TRACTION will be heavily increased and also less bodyroll.

these shocks are the only shocks in the market for there price to offer such a performance.

Blue set: B32,000 -including free fitting, free wheel alignment-camber and free setup. 2yr Strong warrenty assured.

that is the set price for the shocks,

if you decided to modify and take off the leaf spring,

Leaf spring setup and bend alteration: B4000.

---it is not required to change your front springs, unless you have more budget and you want a slighter stiffer but more balanced front,

on top of what the shocks can provide.

of if you want springs to,

we recommend KING springs from australia,

they are about 1-1.5mm thicker then std, and gives a more response feel, better steering control and direction, not to menation extra stability.

my point is though, is it is not nessary to change the spring, unless you feel to support the shock more.

KING SPRING: B11,000.- Free fitting/service

now if you want to do all of this,

we need about 3-5hrs to finsh the setup and tuning.

contact no: 086-086-3221

Edited June 12, 2009 by philipm

[mdechgan]

Mr Philipm,

What kind of brake upgrades can I look for a D-Max 4x4 ?

I also read you know a honda shop. I am trying to tune my H22a, just not sure if its running 100%. I know its knocking quite a bit when hot but don't know why. Tried everything, timing, injectors, spark plugs, ignition, etc.

[philipm]

hey Mdechgan,

for your Dmax you have a large range of brake upgrades,

the question is, how big are your rims? std or larger need to specify...

and second is how much stopping power improvements are you looking for?

40%-90% for 40%-60% you can use your std 16" rim size.

for 60-90+% you will need 18-20" rims.

either way it will consist of the basic,

rear disk brake conversion kit 330mm with twin independent single piston calipers, fitted with ceramic brake pads.

the front will consist of a minimum of a rotor disk upgrade to a slightly larger size, with either

slotted/cross drilled and all are vented.

and for 50-90% improvements you will need a change of the front brake caliper.

In regards to your H22a, are you running a prelude? or swapped it into a Integra? or Civic?

anyways what ecu/piggyback are you running?

i have 1 garage for fixing, and second is a pro tuner with large experience to spot problems.

i am sure if you want a diagnose then you will need to visit my tuner,

P man, PowerLab at Porsche head garage at Dong Mueng. just b4 the airport.

you can contact me for more details.

Edited June 14, 2009 by philipm

[Japhrodisiac]

Japhrodisiac,

yea i sure do know what you are talking about in regards to the std triton std suspension set up.

the great news is i as well am still using std rims 16"

now if you are ok with your std rideheight, but want a stiffer front, a slightly softer back,

good onroad stability with good offroad capability.

ok what i recommend, is first of you need to change your shocks and then we can either take of a leaf spring,

which will reduce the load capity but will offer you a softer rear end. or we can leave the leaf spring,

and just adjust the shocks.

the shocks i recommend is Project X, we have white-family, blue-street/sport and red-racing series.

for your application Blue would do perfect.

it is a full monotube 360* mounting capability,

big bore, super high strength road, full ride height adjustable (lower 2" to raise 3.5") and custom tuneable.

we take your words into concideration and your application, and we can set it from very soft to very stiff and everywhere inbetween.

for the rear shocks, you will love the Project X, as the rear shock not only comes with the,

monotube, 360* mounting ability, big bore, high strength road, ride height adjustable, custom setup but MORE over,

it comes with a light set of springs, the springs on the rear shock help control and even out the damping and rebound rate.

Here is a picture of the shock set.

now depending on the stiffness you go for, i can easily assure you can handle serious speeds, handle corners a hel_l of alot better,

and IN WET TRACTION will be heavily increased and also less bodyroll.

these shocks are the only shocks in the market for there price to offer such a performance.

Blue set: B32,000 -including free fitting, free wheel alignment-camber and free setup. 2yr Strong warrenty assured.

that is the set price for the shocks,

if you decided to modify and take off the leaf spring,

Leaf spring setup and bend alteration: B4000.

---it is not required to change your front springs, unless you have more budget and you want a slighter stiffer but more balanced front,

on top of what the shocks can provide.

of if you want springs to,

we recommend KING springs from australia,

they are about 1-1.5mm thicker then std, and gives a more response feel, better steering control and direction, not to menation extra stability.

my point is though, is it is not nessary to change the spring, unless you feel to support the shock more.

KING SPRING: B11,000.- Free fitting/service

now if you want to do all of this,

we need about 3-5hrs to finsh the setup and tuning.

contact no: 086-086-3221

Thanks for the reply. Sounds like just the ticket. Are anti-sway bars also available and do they decrease ground clearance significantly? Also thinking about a mild brake upgrade. Cheers -

[philipm]

anti sway bars can be fitted, but are not apart of the kit.

trust me on this, the shocks will give you huge conering difference, and body roll is kept to a minimal.

after the shocks if you think a sway bar is needed, then we can do that, either way it will reduce your ground clearence by about 1"-1.5" depending how its mounted.

as for the brakes we have a many upgrades, it just depends on what you want, what size rims you have and your budget

[philipm]

for a mild brake upgrade on the 16" std rims,

i would recomend the rear 330mm disk brake converison kit,

followed by at slightly larger front disk 320mm which is vented and slotted, or veneted and crossdrilled.

vented and slotted is better. followed by cermaic brake pads fitted all round.

this upgrade is good for about 40% improvements in brake feel, stopping power and braking distance.

Edited June 15, 2009 by philipm

[mdechgan]

for a mild brake upgrade on the 16" std rims,

i would recomend the rear 330mm disk brake converison kit,

followed by at slightly larger front disk 320mm which is vented and slotted, or veneted and crossdrilled.

vented and slotted is better. followed by cermaic brake pads fitted all round.

this upgrade is good for about 40% improvements in brake feel, stopping power and braking distance.

I thought someone said rear disc brakes for the D max wasn't possible. Only for the Vigo.

Anyways I am still using the std rims. No plans on using bigger rims. It weird because on my last d-max which was the 4 x 2 space cab the brakes were very good. But as soon as I changed to a 4 x 4 rodeo the brakes suck.

[culicine]

for a mild brake upgrade on the 16" std rims,

i would recomend the rear 330mm disk brake converison kit,

followed by at slightly larger front disk 320mm which is vented and slotted, or veneted and crossdrilled.

vented and slotted is better. followed by cermaic brake pads fitted all round.

this upgrade is good for about 40% improvements in brake feel, stopping power and braking distance.

I thought someone said rear disc brakes for the D max wasn't possible. Only for the Vigo.

Anyways I am still using the std rims. No plans on using bigger rims. It weird because on my last d-max which was the 4 x 2 space cab the brakes were very good. But as soon as I changed to a 4 x 4 rodeo the brakes suck.

Check this out: there are rear conversions for the D-max

http://www.runstopbj.com/rear_brakekit.htm

[philipm]

yup there u go.

[bangsaenguy]

Not sure this has been covered. I have a Prerunner that I intend to increase hp shortly. Question I have is:

First gear in the manual tranny is fairly short. Does the gearing need to be changed?

[philipm]

nope the gearing cannot be changed unless you want to spend alot of big bucks.

99.9% of people run std gear ratios with just uprated clutches.

[Grant]

Hi Philip,

is there turbo solution for Campro 1.6 engine from Proton Neo?

[philipm]

i would suggest the td04 turbocharger from mitsubishi,

its the same core turbo that is used on alot of turbocharged jazz's and yaris.

if you want a slightly bigger salution, i would

recommend the td05h-14B. its not as big as the 16G which is suited for 2L and up without much turbolag.

[Grant]

What about budget for that mods?

Turbo+cooler+pipes+managment?

[phupaman]

Hi Phillip.

I have a 2.0 Mitsu Lancer. Nothing exciting about it 2006 model . What can be done to give me a bit more speed through the gears with out breaking the bank.

fredro.

[philipm]

Grant,

intercooler a Vr4 style will do, thats at about B9,900. Grade A spec.

intercooler pipes, it depends on the material wether stainless steal or alimnium.

you will also need the turbo oil feed line, engine management greddy emanage will do.

you will need pump or injector mods....

phupaman, you dont have the evo, just the std 2L lancer right?

well you should try out intake pipe, exhaust upgrade. then large intake manifold, then a ecu like a greddy emanage,

you can also go for cam gears if you want to mess with the timing to make big gains.

[TIAG0]

Hi Philip

I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Pajero DI-D (4M41 - 5M gearbox) with cats and rear muffler deleted (only has mid-pipe big muffler), OEM airbox with K&N filter and programable powerbox. The powerbox was tunned by me till the engine start to cut the power. It black smokes alot with full throttle and i cannot WOT in 2000-2500rpm range in 4th or 5th due to transmission crazy vibrations. It got 195HP and 510nm in MAHA dyno.

What do i need for a 300HP level? At what rpm does the power come in? Stock turbo starts to make power around 2000rpm. Till there is pretty flat in power.

I need a longer gearing for speed because i drive often in highways and with just 1/2 of throttle the car goes easy to 190km/h (4000rpm). Do you have any pinion and crow wheel kit to decrease final drive ratio.

The brake system don't match the stock performance because after 3 or 4 emergency brake at high speed the rotors warped.

You can PM if you want for prices.

Regards,

Tiago

[Razzd]

Goodday, Philip

Just signed on this forum. Just saying hello.

[philipm]

hey Razzd,

its a pleasure to have you here.

[Dasmarinas]

her guys anyone intrested in performance parts for these pickups?

we have,

piggiebacks/ecu,

suspensions,

big brakes,

guages,

etc etc

list what are you intrested in and i shall send more info on those following products.

I have a 2004 4-door 4x4 Toyota Sports Cruiser. Unlike the Vigo, it does not have an intercooler. Has any of you experienced adding an intercooler to your Sports Cruiser? Any suggestions where this can be done well? Thanks.

[philipm]

yea sure would you like a new intercooler,

what size? what type?

would you like stainless or aliminum intercooler pipes?

you will further need silicon hose and clamps.

[sajidd]

Dear All

Anyone know where I can buy ECU + Upgrade Chip + Suspension upgrade parts in KL or Singapore?

Regards

Sajid

[RRL]

HEY i got the dyno done at PowerLab the porsche garage in dindang....

i will go back within the next few days after getting Pe Muu to tune my megafire to its maximum capabilities....

and to change my airpod intake, back into the std O.E airpod box (to avoide engine checklight....which was unfortunatlly on during the run )

anyways the result!

first of powerlab gives less power then testcar by about 5%, but they know how to do automatic!

the power 260WHP 548NM OF WHEEL TORQUE! -about (310flywheel hp, and 600nm to the fly)

at the same time, after the retune etc it should reach 300WHP and over 600NM of WHeel torque!

this will happen in a few days!

Hi Philipm,

May i know what is the reason you stopped below 4000 rpm in this dyno chart? Thanks!

[philipm]

which dyno are you refering to?

i have multiple,

the 312hp and 661nm of torque, we reved it to 4400rpms, so i am not sure what you are talking about.

as for my newest dyno,

325hp and 725NM of torque, i will post the video soon. you can see we reved it till redline always. so we can see

how the power and torque comes on and also how it fades, to judge best shift points and to see if we need to fine tune any areas etc.

[RRL]

Maybe i saw an old dyno sheet.

Looking forward to see the "Torque King" dyno chart.

your truck keeps impressing me!

did you upgrade fuel pump? or will the stock one handle that much flow?

Did you upgrade any engine internal?(headgasket, headstuds, rods, pistons etc?)

[philipm]

Hey mate,

this is with std pump, but with modified commonrail injector caps,

but the engine internals are all std

i will post up a video of the dyno soon.

i am thinking of doing the oversize piston after my compound turbo is kit is completed,

i will also modify the pump to help run the two turbochargers. i have big plans haha

but as for now, i am happy with a std internal engine producing that much torque and double the hp amount.