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philipm

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the performance of the calipers, the 6pot is aliminium forged(like on the first page), and there is also the big 4 pot like the one in the pictures above.

they are of high quality and work very well.

they are not the same grade as what you would get from a Brembo GT 6pot, ENDLESS 6pot, AP racing.

THE runstops ARE Better then the OE brembo sets that you would get from an evo MR, gtr, they actually can not be compared, the 6pot delivers

huge performance. more than suitable for track, drag, rally, street use.

stopping will defentially not be an issue with these calipers.

the price for the caliper is about 10-15k less then original sized brembo calipers. about 35k oFf from the endless calipers, and about 45-50k ofF from the ap racing calipers. they arnt cheap though (49-69K)

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THANKS stingray,

we got the engine and tranmission direct from japan,

now it has a 2jz-gte 3000cc twin turbo 6, with a 2jz gte auto tranmission. with intercooler modifications, intake mods, aliminium radaitor, blowoff, full exhaust, hks fuel cut defender/boost cut eliminator, hks hipower muffler,hiflow pump,etc etc etc etc.

(stock turbos, stock headers, stock internals)

it goes hard, when you press the throttle right. its got a an estimated 330-350hp.

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hello

I have just returned from my 14days in thailand and im thinking of buying an L200 (triton) 136hp 2,5.

Do you ship the parts?

As i can see the standard L200 with 136hp is 14.6sek 0-100 and if i got it chip tuned to about 165hp it should be around 12sek something.. how fast would it be with a stage 2 with about 240hp.. and do i need to change my clutch for this modification?

further more: what about the chip tuning if i buy the parts from you.. i dont have the option of taking the car along on a 13hour flight ;-)

What is the prize on the parts? and what should i start off buying?

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  • 4 weeks later...

what mods are you looking for?

as we have turbo kits etc ranging for all 4cyl diesel trucks/suvs.

and the dms piggyback option can be made for your application.

Fraguzz, with about 240hp (2nd stage for 2.5L motor), in generall depending we recommend to change to a either a heavy duty clutch kit,

or a modified clutch kit from japan with the biggest name in the market, such as OS-Giken, Nismo, Excedy etc.

0-100 with 240hp, are you a single or double cab? on average it should hit 0-100 in about 8-10seconds

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Gents- update, the company is NOT commonrail center,

it is Monster-p-industries, www.monster-p-industries.com.

Taking on a new project something very unqiue.

1uzfe (Toyota 4000cc v8) from lexus sc400,

supra 5speed manual gearbox,

twin plate clutch,

Custom CP forged pistons-rings-pins-locks compression ratio 9:0,

Forged custom H-beam connecting rods,

Acl race series bearings,

Arp race series bolts,

cosmetic performance 1mm thicker lower compression ratio metal gaskets,

MSD twin ignition,

8x 720cc injectors,

no.8 iridium ngk sparkplugs,

twin walbro fuel pumps,

turbosmart large fuel regulator adjustable,

Performance timing belt,

90mm custom throttle body,

twin high performance fuel rails,

custom stainless turbo headers- twin turbo,

twin turbochargers 16's (rated at 370whp each),

3.5" twin exhaust,

custom turbo downpipe,

HKS fcon vpro standalone ecu,

custom wiring harness,

turbosmart 55mm external wastegate,

Profec B greddy spec 2 electronic boost controller (switching low and high boost) with remote,

custom intercooler pipe kit,

performance figures target,

low boost 0.8bar 500RWHP,

high boost 1.4bar 700RWHP,

street use daily driver!

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The Lexus V8 sounds like it will be a monster! You said from, what is the motor being fit into?

Philipm, have you ever installed LPG, propane or cooking gas, injection systems on your diesel vehicles?

Have been very satisfied with two vehicles, a Ford 7.3 and a Mitsu 2.5 (4d56), which I ran propane injection systems. The results with the 2.5 TD were most pleasing; it was a budget build up with: stock turbo with slightly more boost (waste gate tweak), intercooler with custom intake, 3 inch stainless exhaust, and a WOT activated, switchable propane injection system.

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holidayforever,

i am actually going to fit the 1uz into my triton 4x4...hahaha its going to be one crazy ass street truck.

as for the propane, no we have not. i know its a big thing in the states with different nozzle and pumps to offer out set kits-very smiliar to NOS. but we have yet to incorporate it.

on the other hand, water methanol kit we have done and have our source for them.

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pm sent mate.

changing to a k&n filter and custom intake pipe, will give higher airflow then the std box,

meaning the turbo will spool slightly quicker with a little more torque and perhaps 2-3hp gain.

alot of people notice the difference from a standing start and just press the throttle as the response is better then std.

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1uz project is comming along,

the fcon vpro harness is made,

90mm throttle body is in,

and so is the Jun custom intake manifold.

alot more parts to come...

remember gents if any of you want to modify a pickup/car/suv we do all types of modifications from brakes, suspensions, engine mods-na and turbo, engine swaps, services, ecu modifications etc etc...

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  • 5 months later...

Hey Gents,

an update,

Customers chevrolet colorado 2.5l, turbo kit stage 3, pump/injector, clutch, brakes, suspensions, wheels, our piggyback etc etc.

the 2.5l std made (116hp) Dyno after modification at street tune (40psi) 361HP/727Nm of torque.

dyno video:

Stage 4 is now in planning, 3L converison, compound turbo setup, possibly billet connecting rods.

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Hey Gents,

an update,

Customers chevrolet colorado 2.5l, turbo kit stage 3, pump/injector, clutch, brakes, suspensions, wheels, our piggyback etc etc.

the 2.5l std made (116hp) Dyno after modification at street tune (40psi) 361HP/727Nm of torque.

dyno video:

Stage 4 is now in planning, 3L converison, compound turbo setup, possibly billet connecting rods.

Is this the same video that was posted here ~2 months ago, or has something else changed?

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Hey Gents,

an update,

Customers chevrolet colorado 2.5l, turbo kit stage 3, pump/injector, clutch, brakes, suspensions, wheels, our piggyback etc etc.

the 2.5l std made (116hp) Dyno after modification at street tune (40psi) 361HP/727Nm of torque.

dyno video:

Stage 4 is now in planning, 3L converison, compound turbo setup, possibly billet connecting rods.

Is this the same video that was posted here ~2 months ago, or has something else changed?

Just search "philipdiablo" on youtube & you can see all his video's. :thumbsup:

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Just search "philipdiablo" on youtube & you can see all his video's. :thumbsup:

Yep, I know how to use the interweb, thanks ;)

My Q was whether the video just posted above is meant to be new or not - in any case on 2nd look it appears it's the same video posted here last month, so not an update.

I do have a question for Philip though:

the first time I watched this I was shocked - the thing appeared to pull 100 to 160km/hr in ~6 secs (which sounds right for quoted HP) but then goes on to pull 160-220km/hr in just 4 secs (that'd take something like ~550 HP right?)

Then I noticed that the speedo indicates just over 220km/hr while the dyno registers a top speed of 181km/hr

That's a +21.5% difference (or 17.8% of you work it backwards) - too big to be undersized tires, so I'm guessing there must be really low ratio diff in there or something? Either way, the speedo appears to be totally incorrect, yes?

Edited by MoonRiverOasis
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Hey gents,

i do believe the video was posted on cheap diesel performance topic.

the customer truck does not have an L.S.D, we will be swapping his rear axel soon with disk brake really soon.

the std rims-tires are much much smaller than his current one, he have yet to send it to chevy to alter the wheel/tire diameter to get an accurate speedo reading.

all i can say, for std engine internals this truck flies.

the reason why 100-160 in 6seconds is beacuse boost has yet to hit its optimal pressure. thats why after 160-220 it flies as thats when max boost hits.

if we pulled in 4thgear as our 1st attemp the ratio is very short so it spins to fast unable to get an accurate reading. but if we pulled from 4th 100-160 will be over in about 3-4seconds. :)

truly acceleration is determined by torque vs hp. (hp is a better suggestion to top speed vs acceleration) torque wins races, HP sells cars.

we will be swapping the internals to custom forged special coated pistons for performance diesel, and also billet rods.

as for std 3l chevy, we can achieve 240-260hp with std VGT turbocharger(intercooled) with our full DMS piggyback monster kit.

it will truly eleiminate the lag, give you huge performance all round. and completly alter the feeling for your truck. you wont believe

the difference between our kit and std or even our kit comparing to cheap commonrail products. we can also do front mount intercooler job if you give us time so u can achieve best power/torque levels with reliability. without intercooler we still provide 60-85hp gain above std. intercooler is recommend though.

we provide dyno test result, 2yr free tuning and 2yr warrenty.

our kit is all electronic, one to adjust fuel pressure, another to alter injector pulse width, alter tps control and set main and pilot injection start and stop time. besides this we also have the adjustable

electronic VGT/VN turbo boost controller which we set at optimal safe pressure to minimize black smoke, make clean HIGH power/torque, maximimize fuel economy.

it take 5-7hrs to complete start to finish the piggyback kit installation.

i have attached a pic of std piston, and what happens when egt gets to high (hole in a piston)

post-56318-083160400 1279871964_thumb.jp

Edited by philipm
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the customer truck does not have an L.S.D, we will be swapping his rear axel soon with disk brake really soon.

the std rims-tires are much much smaller than his current one, he have yet to send it to chevy to alter the wheel/tire diameter to get an accurate speedo reading.

None of that explains the discrepancy though.

the reason why 100-160 in 6seconds is beacuse boost has yet to hit its optimal pressure. thats why after 160-220 it flies as thats when max boost hits.

if we pulled in 4thgear as our 1st attemp the ratio is very short so it spins to fast unable to get an accurate reading. but if we pulled from 4th 100-160 will be over in about 3-4seconds. :)

truly acceleration is determined by torque vs hp. (hp is a better suggestion to top speed vs acceleration) torque wins races, HP sells cars.

Horsepower is just the relationship of torque and RPM [specifically: (Torque x RPM) / 7023.5] So HP essentially is torque, just represented over time. So saying "torque wins races, HP sells cars" is kinda like saying "fuel rail pressure wins races, but fuel system flow rates sells cars" :blink:

It's also just as easy to calculate the ballpark WHP required for n acceleration of a vehicle with a known weight. As noted, by my calcs, the truck in the video would need around 550 flywheel HP (@18% drivetrain loss) to pull as fast as the speedo indicates from 160-220km/h. You can give or take a few % based on actual drivetrain loss (max +/-3% or so), but the fact is it's just not possible it pulled that kind of acceleration with the 361 HP quoted, well, unless I'm undergoing a bout of down syndrome, heh ;)

I'm not saying 361HP isn't a good result - it's fantastic, especially considering you haven't cracked the engine open. I'm just concerned that a substantial discrepancy seems to have occurred without being noticed.

Of course my numbers could be totally incorrect - if you feel that's the case please do say so :) I'm both reasonable and thick-skinned :D

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torque vs hp is a widely discussed topic.

their are differences in opinions, but you are correct to assume

that HP=(torque at certain rpm/ 5252(for ft or 9549 for nm),

their is many defining factors such as transmission drag, engine drag, gearing ratio, l.s.d ratio etc etc.

torque is ideal for trucks and other applications where you need huge rotation movement,

torque can be said to provide best acceleration up to a certain speed. at which point when the drag

coefficients reduces it is were HP is needed to push the car through high speeds and accelerate after the peak torque curve drops.

if you can picture a bicycle with different gears, on first gear the ratio is very short, the heavy feel of rotation in low rpm allows you to use the force to push the bike to move at a fast pace(consider this as torque), after the speed vs rpm vs ratio looses momentum it will depend on how fast you can peddle the wheels accordingly in relation to gear and rpm-giving you top range acceleration/topspeed.

as soon as rpms rise up their is less friction due to gear ratio that you will eventually cycle the gear to fast that you will not gain speed or feeling, untill you shift to 2nd gear and start the process all over again.

torque and hp are not the same thing but depend on one another.

a car with 500hp with 400ft of torque

vs car with 500hp and 700ft of torque with same weight, rpm limit and gear ratio, and adjusted launch/shift point,

the car with higher torque will win every time.

if you put the example of 500hp with 400ft torque

and 300hp with 700ft torque, the 500hp will win in a quarter mile/topspeed and outright acceleration.

but the 700ft of torque will pull through the speeds quicker at optimal rpm/load as soon as the torque curve drops its where the HP plays the biggest roll.

here is a good read: opinions may differ and i am always up for discussion. its wrong to say that HP matter and torque doesnt, and its also wrong to say torque

matter and not HP. they are directly related. you get the best of the best when you have a sweet HP and torque curve to compliment each other. you dont want high hp low torque

or high torque and very low hp-for out right performance.

for drifting torque is a major player more so than the drag strip. each type of racing uses slight difference in engine performance concept.

http://craig.backfire.ca/pages/autos/horsepower<BR style="mso-special-character: line-break"><BR style="mso-special-character: line-break">

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Just search "philipdiablo" on youtube & you can see all his video's. :thumbsup:

Yep, I know how to use the interweb, thanks ;)

My Q was whether the video just posted above is meant to be new or not - in any case on 2nd look it appears it's the same video posted here last month, so not an update.

I do have a question for Philip though:

the first time I watched this I was shocked - the thing appeared to pull 100 to 160km/hr in ~6 secs (which sounds right for quoted HP) but then goes on to pull 160-220km/hr in just 4 secs (that'd take something like ~550 HP right?)

Then I noticed that the speedo indicates just over 220km/hr while the dyno registers a top speed of 181km/hr

That's a +21.5% difference (or 17.8% of you work it backwards) - too big to be undersized tires, so I'm guessing there must be really low ratio diff in there or something? Either way, the speedo appears to be totally incorrect, yes?

I check my speedo against a GPS at 150klm/h it is out by 5 to 8 klm/h could be tire size but more than likely most are out from new, same as sports bikes

The truck is very quick with enough power to keep me happy for a little while or until the new engine is built. I didnt get a chance to run down the strip but did plenty of stop light drags and havent had anything come close to keeping up yet.

There are a lot of race looking trucks around but 90% seem to be all show no go or with shitty race chips.

Picture of the new race lip fitted

post-108887-094946100 1280236799_thumb.j

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I check my speedo against a GPS at 150klm/h it is out by 5 to 8 klm/h could be tire size but more than likely most are out from new, same as sports bikes

Yes of course, most speedos indicate 3-5% under actual speed, and different wheel/tire combination can throw it out by another 3% as well (well, assuming normal tolerances).

So that means that only real explanations left is that the dyno was/is inaccurate, or was/is misconfigured. Note that If it's indicating over-speed it's also logical to assume it's also over-indicating HP as well, as all are related..

The truck is very quick with enough power to keep me happy for a little while or until the new engine is built. I didnt get a chance to run down the strip but did plenty of stop light drags and havent had anything come close to keeping up yet.

There are a lot of race looking trucks around but 90% seem to be all show no go or with shitty race chips.

So long as you enjoy it and feel you've received value for your money, that's all that really matters I guess :D

Did you see my thread on the Dynolicious?

If you have an iPhone or iPod, you sound like the type of person that'll get right into it.. For 1/4 mile and 0-xxx timing it's incredibly accurate, and it appears to have more than acceptable accuracy when estimating WHP as well. If you're going to keep going with mods, it'd give you your own set of benchmarks for comparing the performance gains at each step as well..

Picture of the new race lip fitted

Is that a custom-fabricated one? Can't say I've seen it around. Looking good though :thumbsup:

Edited by MoonRiverOasis
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There are a lot of race looking trucks around but 90% seem to be all show no go or with shitty race chips.

With my ' shit ' chip, nothing yet has seen me off at the lights so don't count your chickens yet. Good Luck. :D

Hehehe nothing like a little rivalry, so long as it stays friendly ;) Track day anyone? :D

One point I do have to make is that "shitty race chips" (not my words!) are just devices that boost the commonrail pressure. You can't have a bigger turbo without one of them or a full-replacement ECU, so I'd expect you've got one too monster25 ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Philip,

Has anyone in thaland tried compound turbos in their commonrail diesel? Whats the most powerful pickup upto date? That colorado is putting some serious power on a 2.5l engine what turbo is installed in there?

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