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Mulch (a Key Component To Growing In The Tropics)


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You don't have to shred the straw, if you can get it to lay flat. attached photos from my friend's organic farm in Mae Rim district of Chiang Mai.  Rice hulls and coconut fiber are some other common materials for mulching.

 

I don't know about cane, but others may know more about what's  available. 

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At home i'm currently using grass cutting, dried leaves and cut up banana/pattaya leaves that have dropped off.   Trying to build up a nice layer of mulch from recycling within the garden.

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On 2/21/2009 at 6:14 PM, jandtaa said:

gypsum

Hi. Do you have any photos of the packet? Where do you buy it? Know what it's called in Thai? 

Thank you. 

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On 11/28/2021 at 6:47 PM, djayz said:

Hi. Do you have any photos of the packet? Where do you buy it? Know what it's called in Thai? 

Thank you. 

In Thai แร่ยิปซั่ม,Rare-Yipsum ,where to buy Nana Garden,has sold it,Farmerjo got a truckload from a place near Phraputhabart in Saraburi provence .

Ask locale someone might know.

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On 11/28/2021 at 6:47 PM, djayz said:

Hi. Do you have any photos of the packet? Where do you buy it? Know what it's called in Thai? 

Thank you. 

Best Garden State on FB.  Its not listed in their products yet, but call for availability and pricing.  

Anywhere else, be sure what you are getting is Calcium sulfate and not Calcium oxide or some other variation of a Calcium product.

The difference is profound in affect on soil chemistry and on the beneficial soil biology that we should be trying to protect and cultivate.

Misrepresentation and mislabeling is common.  And sample quality before buying a quantity.  I have bought a 50 kilo sack of gypsum from Limsakdakul Chemi in Chiang Mai. I'm confident it was gypsum, and it was cheap, but it was a crude, brown, unscreened lumpy mined product that took a hammering to break up the large, rock-hard clods before I could use it. 

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19 hours ago, drtreelove said:

Best Garden State on FB.  Its not listed in their products yet, but call for availability and pricing.  

Anywhere else, be sure what you are getting is Calcium sulfate and not Calcium oxide or some other variation of a Calcium product.

The difference is profound in affect on soil chemistry and on the beneficial soil biology that we should be trying to protect and cultivate.

Misrepresentation and mislabeling is common.  And sample quality before buying a quantity.  I have bought a 50 kilo sack of gypsum from Limsakdakul Chemi in Chiang Mai. I'm confident it was gypsum, and it was cheap, but it was a crude, brown, unscreened lumpy mined product that took a hammering to break up the large, rock-hard clods before I could use it. 

Off topic from the Mulch discussion, but since gypsum is being discussed, here's some background that some readers may find useful in making decisions.

 

Gypsum as an Agricultural Amendment: General Use Guidelines (usagypsum.com)

 

For strict Soil Food Web - Regenerative Agriculture standards, gypsum is a concentrated substance that can be harmful to the beneficial soil biology. But in an early stage of soil improvement, it can help to bring the major cations into balace and aid in leaching excesses, without significantly impacting pH. 

 

Heavy metals are a concern with some sources. 

 

From The Ideal Soil by Astera

 

If a large area is to be balanced and cost precludes applying the full amounts of all of the needed minerals, start with the most important cation minerals, Calcium and Magnesium. They are fully as important in the soil as they are in the human body and the least expensive to buy. In a very loose and sandy soil with a low exchange capacity you will want about 60% Ca saturation and 20% Mg saturation, in a heavy clay soil with a high exchange capacity, 70% to 80% Ca to 10% Mg. This is because the higher the ratio of Calcium to Magnesium, the looser the soil gets, and as the Magnesium portion gets higher, the soil gets tighter. A higher level of Mg will pull a loose sandy soil together; a higher level of Ca will open up a dense, heavy soil. 

 

Calcium sources: Agricultural sweet lime (Calcium carbonate) and gypsum (Calcium sulfate) are the preferred sources of calcium. Gypsum supplies readily available Calcium, and is also a good source of Sulfur, an element that is seriously lacking in most agricultural soils. Agricultural lime supplies Carbon as well as Calcium. Carbon helps make a soil less sticky. If you already have plenty of Carbon in your soil as organic matter, but are low on Sulfur, gypsum is a better bet. The various rock phosphates and regular superphosphate also contain significant Calcium, but their Calcium content is chemically bound to Phosphorus and is not available in exchangeable form, so should not be considered as part of the Calcium being added to balance the CEC ratios.

 

As a rule, don‘t use Dolomite lime, regardless of what you may have read in various gardening books, unless you are sure that you need Magnesium. Dolomite is a high Magnesium limestone. Using dolomite will tighten the soil, reducing air in the soil and inducing anaerobic alcohol fermentation or even formaldehyde preservation of organic matter rather than aerobic decomposition.

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Nice thread.

 

Despite living mainly on an organic farm for a long time now I know nothing about farming. I'd always assumed (probably from the sound of the word) that mulch was wet mucky stuff. Now I know from this thread that it can take many forms, including the rice straw that we (not me personally lol) put on the ground to retain moisture and to protect seedlings from birds.

 

A quick google tells me you can even buy it from lazada (if you're on chrome, right click and translate to English)

 

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/organic-100-2-i1948160165-s6602182579.html?exlaz=d_1:mm_150050845_51350205_2010350205::12:13920044294!125392363912!!!pla-294682000766!c!294682000766!6602182579!269882269&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-qGNBhD3ARIsAO_o7ylng2N5rjygWxVv7AryPoBS3Cd9W1lJwF98EaEWKXxYZkYFD47CF5kaAndJEALw_wcB

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